NeckDlight Posted February 13, 2018 Report Share Posted February 13, 2018 On my way home yesterday sitting in stop and go traffic on the highway I'm pretty sure my water pump took a dump on me. I have not investigated it much but from what research I have done I'm leaning towards the water. I'm not lucky enough for it to just be a hose. I'm just trying to see what kind of surgery I'm getting myself into. The edge has 139500 miles on it. I've put about 9000 on it since I've had it. I'm just looking to see who has tackled this job and looking for pointers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted February 13, 2018 Report Share Posted February 13, 2018 Book time is about 14 hours for water pump replacement. You basically have to get into the timing cover/chains before you can get to the water pump. More a question of a] are you comfortable working with one side of your Edge on jackstands (pass side tire has to be removed, along with fender liner), b] do you have patience, and c] do you have cam holding tools? You can do it with the engine in the car, or you can pull the engine to do the work. A good time to replace the timing components/solenoids also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haedgy Posted February 13, 2018 Report Share Posted February 13, 2018 You would be pretty lucky if it didn't damage the engine. I hear nightmare stories of the water pump taking the engine with it when it blows. Not sure why Ford had to bury the pump inside the engine when pretty much every other car has a nice easy to remove one right in the front of the engine. I am with Perf on that one replace what you feel needs to be if you're going in that deep to fix the water pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeckDlight Posted February 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2018 Welp I'll make myself comfortable. I do need to get my hands on the cam holding tools. Also looking for advice as to where to get them. My handy dandy Haynes manual says it's manufacturer tool number 303-1248. Is that correct I did read somewhere else I would have to get a harmonic balancer puller tool as well. And am considering replacing all timing chains. All plugs and coils as well. I did read that someone did it at home in 20-24 hrs 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeckDlight Posted February 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2018 I was in the fast lane sitting in stop n go. Saw the imfamous antifreeze puff come out from the hood and got off in the shoulder. Started to chug and I shut it down. There wasn't much time it was running after the tall tell signs of me being screwed. I did however slap the code reader on it when I got home last night and low and behold hold I have a po1299 code. Cylinder head over temperature protection active 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted February 14, 2018 Report Share Posted February 14, 2018 Auto parts stores may rent the cam holders. If you do the job yourself you are looking at about 400 dollars in parts. Chain, VCT's waterpump, Guides, tensioners, belts, and belt tensioner. I am even replacing the oil pump when I do this job. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dat2109 Posted February 14, 2018 Report Share Posted February 14, 2018 You might be jumping a few steps blaming the waterpump right away. I dont think a puff of steam when the waterpump lets go is very common because they often leak into the engine. Check Check Check everything else first, the old keep it simple stupid comes to mind. You dont want to spend the time changing the water pump or engine if it was just a hose or clamp that let go. Once the engine registers the overheat it will cut power, sounds like that is what you experienced. Running low on coolant can cause this, especially if you've been idling. Tell tale signs that the waterpump is to blame is coolant disappearing into the oil and timing related codes. You've got to do lots of digging before you see the waterpump itself. I've done the waterpump replacement in the Edge, I have the cam tools I can loan out if you don't want to buy a set. The harmonic balancer remover is a common loan a tool from the parts houses - they say it is for Chryslers but its the same tool. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dat2109 Posted February 14, 2018 Report Share Posted February 14, 2018 (edited) I took a video of the water pump pulley dripping, it was a few hours of work to get here because you need to take the timing cover and timing chain off. https://youtu.be/19oPyOMDUh8 Edited February 14, 2018 by dat2109 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeckDlight Posted February 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2018 I have not even began to investigate it yet. As I do have old faithful my daily driver the original smart car a 1989 Ford escort. I assure you i will go to every measure possible to make sure it is not the water pump. But I know how my luck is and it's never the most likely/easiest possibility. But I am ready for those tables to turn. I will keep you all updated as to what I find out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeckDlight Posted February 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2018 So this evening I decided I would try and start it for the hell of it because I wanted it turned around in my drive way so the hood is facing the house. Closer to the tools. It fired right up I turned it around in record speed and shut it down. This tells me hopefully that my engine is not "totally wiped out". Which I didn't think it was. I put it on Jack stands so I could take quick peek. I didn't see anything obvious. I hooked my old harbor freight radiator pressure tester on it applied pressure and again didn't see anything obvious. Again I only had about 10 minutes.... Busy life. I'm really hoping its something simple but when I have more time I will be more thorough in my investigation. I can tell you all the wettness is on the passenger side. And I can see the strait line on the underside of the hood where the serp belt was throwing coolant. I know that the water pump is not visible without doing some digging. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted February 15, 2018 Report Share Posted February 15, 2018 If you see wetness at the weephole (visible with a careful look from up top), the water pump is on its way out. Some videos on YouTube even show a gusher! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dat2109 Posted February 15, 2018 Report Share Posted February 15, 2018 I think that weep hole is behind the alternator, really really hard to see. The waterpump wouldn't directly sling coolant onto the belt because it isn't driven by it but maybe it could make a path from the weephole to the belt? Check that area out. Mine didnt weep at all externally. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freebird Posted February 15, 2018 Report Share Posted February 15, 2018 OP had 140000 on his engine at water pump failure time. Is there any general time period that these things fail? This is probably the biggest thing I hate about my edge - a ticking time bomb that everyone knows will need to be replaced at some point yet it is a $1500 job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulSchott Posted February 15, 2018 Report Share Posted February 15, 2018 Mine was weeping and dripping on the ground. I had no oil contamination and caught it quickly. It was a $1700 at my trusted mechanic @ 115/hour Connecticut prices. Ford quoted me over $500 more. (I paid cash to save some money) I heard the timing chains making some noise before the disaster. I had about 110,000 miles on her. Mine still had the original yellow antifreeze in her. Have you ever had the coolant changed? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeckDlight Posted February 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2018 So this evening I decided to do some more investigating. Fire the car up let it run for 20 minutes. No leaks nothing. Happy as can be. Then I started thinking. This happened while I was sitting in traffic. I know my luck and think the worst possible outcome. Has to be the water pump. I start thinking about it over heating and why or what would cause it to over heat. While I'm thinking about this I realize you know what I have never heard the fans kick on. So I have no idea what the temperature of the engine is sitting at there is a C and H on my dash So I slap my cheapo code reader on it because I know that tells me the temperature. The temperature is sitting at 195. I do not know what temp or when the cooling fans should kick on at. I believe it gets a message from the pcm I would think at acertian temp the pcm says hey fan module turn your fans on.I'm still trying to figure that out. So I grab my Haynes manual and it says to troubleshoot the fans rule out the fans send power and ground to each of them and the fans should run. I do so and they do not run. As a last ditch effort almost like a kid I take my hand and spin the fan. Then all of the sudden it starts running with strait power and ground ran to them. Both fans do this. I start jogging my memory I had a a situation a couple months ago where I got off the highway and starting going down a road and this edge wouldn't shift out of first gear wierd. I started getting mad thinking I bought a used piece. Which I still do so I took it to a local Aamco transmission shop and had them check the trans out for me they couldn't find anything wrong with the trans.Except a fan control module code in the history they checked it out and said it was fine. So I'm thinking I have a fan control module issue along with a cooling fan issue. The cooling fans should kick on I believe when thrown strait power and ground to them. But would both fans be bad at the same time or did one take a crap on me and the other finally did. Or did the fan control module cause them to prematurely go bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted February 17, 2018 Report Share Posted February 17, 2018 Cooling fans, stock, kick on about 210F for the Gen 1. Tstat starts opening about 190F. would be nice if it is just the cooling fans! Only 1 cooling fan comes on when climate control is not engaged. If climate control is engaged for any reason, meaning A/C, both fans will run. Maybe just a dirty connector? Try cleaning and greasing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeckDlight Posted February 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2018 Yeah but why when I have 12 volts and a ground supplied to either fan(closer to the fcm) and I give the fan a little push do they start working. That tells me weak fans? Right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeckDlight Posted February 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2018 I cannot for the life of me recall looking at the either c or h gauge on the cluster or any lights except the check engine light when it "over heated" on traffic. The only thing I remember was I gotta get off on the shoulder and can a tow truck transport a 1 year old in a car seat 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted February 17, 2018 Report Share Posted February 17, 2018 Just for reference, here's a video from Mactfordedge on the location for the water pump weep hole. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted February 17, 2018 Report Share Posted February 17, 2018 When idling with the engine warm, put A/C on max and both fans should run. At this point I would just go ahead and replace them. I think the parts are around $150 maybe a bit more (get OEM not aftermarket) and it’s a 30 minute DIY job at most. There are detailed instructions posted here somewhere from autom8r. At least that way you can rule out the fans if it happens again. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IWRBB Posted February 17, 2018 Report Share Posted February 17, 2018 Not sure why Ford had to bury the pump inside the engine when pretty much every other car has a nice easy to remove one right in the front of the engine. It's packaging to jam a large V6 into small FWD engine bays. It won't fit otherwise. The RWD versions of the 3.5L in F150s have a standard external water pump setup I believe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeckDlight Posted February 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2018 Just for reference, here's a video from Mactfordedge on the location for the water pump weep hole. https://youtu.be/jvnHSqiLCAg Thank you for the reference this is good to know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeckDlight Posted February 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2018 I went out and go a new cooling fan setup for the heck of it I did connected both fans and threw 12v and a ground to each fan and they started as soon as I applied the 12v. Later I am going to put it in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTFordfan Posted February 17, 2018 Report Share Posted February 17, 2018 My 2011 3.5 water pump failed at 142,000 $1800 at the dealer- done in one day. Replaced short chain and a few guides while in there. This was Feb 17. This is the shortcoming of a great engine. Water pump should be a serviceable part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted February 17, 2018 Report Share Posted February 17, 2018 They are serviceable. Only $1800 to replace. (cough) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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