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2016 Edge Sport (G2) Front & Rear Sway Bars


snmjim

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Received my bar this morning, just in time to get it installed this weekend! :rockon:

 

Any tips on a smooth install? On paper, removing the OEM bar and installing the new one is as straightforward as it gets. But, should I put the rear of the car up on jack stands for more room to work, then put my floor jack under the rear diff and jack it up to about normal ride height? I'm thinking this would take any potential preloading off the links. Would this be the easiest approach?

Edited by roots57
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Received my bar this morning, just in time to get it installed this weekend! :rockon:

 

Any tips on a smooth install? On paper, removing the OEM bar and installing the new one is as straightforward as it gets. But, should I put the rear of the car up on jack stands for more room to work, then put my floor jack under the rear diff and jack it up to about normal ride height? I'm thinking this would take any potential preloading off the links. Would this be the easiest approach?

You're correct, lift anywhere but on the suspension...;-)

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OK but if I jack at the pinch welds there is no room to place the jack stands on the pinch welds. That is what I am trying to figure out.

 

Jack placement can be Fwd or Aft of jackstand placement point. As long as you're on the pinch weld. Be sure to use a cushion on the jack point i.e. rubber or wood block..

;-)

Edited by snmjim
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Ok sway bar is installed. After a test drive it helped a lot with getting the handling a lot more neutral mostly mid corner to exit. Feel in entry it has helped keep the body roll down. The OEM bar with ends links and bracket on it weighs 11lbs. This new one weighs 17lbs before even adding anything in to it! The install was not too bad. For some reason the passenger side end link to the lower control arm was harder to get out then the drivers side.

Only two complaints.

The black paint is very thin and scratches easy. Just getting feeding it through the back I saw some good scratches. Not sure if this will cause easy rusting.

Noticed these do not have the lateral locks that the OEM bars do to help prevent the bar for moving side to side. Thinking I might get these from whiteline. Just wondering what size bar is the new one?

https://www.whiteline.com.au/do_segue4.php?make=UNIVERSAL+PRODUCTS&model=SWAY+BAR+-+LATERAL+LOCK&model_final=SWAY+BAR+-+LATERAL+LOCK&vehicle=ALL

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Ok sway bar is installed. After a test drive it helped a lot with getting the handling a lot more neutral mostly mid corner to exit. Feel in entry it has helped keep the body roll down. The OEM bar with ends links and bracket on it weighs 11lbs. This new one weighs 17lbs before even adding anything in to it! The install was not too bad. For some reason the passenger side end link to the lower control arm was harder to get out then the drivers side.

 

Only two complaints.

 

The black paint is very thin and scratches easy. Just getting feeding it through the back I saw some good scratches. Not sure if this will cause easy rusting.

 

Noticed these do not have the lateral locks that the OEM bars do to help prevent the bar for moving side to side. Thinking I might get these from whiteline. Just wondering what size bar is the new one?

 

https://www.whiteline.com.au/do_segue4.php?make=UNIVERSAL+PRODUCTS&model=SWAY+BAR+-+LATERAL+LOCK&model_final=SWAY+BAR+-+LATERAL+LOCK&vehicle=ALL

 

 

When you figure out the lateral locks let us know, i'm interested... :thumbsup:

Edited by snmjim
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The sway bar is between 1.127 and 1.130 inch diameter so that would require the 28 to 30mm or 1 and 1/4 inch lateral lock. I like the idea and I am going to order some for my car. A super easy and lightweight fix . Great find veener79 :victory:

 

Alloy high performance lateral locks are designed to maintain Swaybar centralization.

 

1. Once you have your Swaybar in position and central with links attached,
attach the lateral locks next to the mounting bush (leave approx 3-4mm gap).
This can be either side of the mounting bush but its best to aim for the most accessible area on the Swaybar. If there is little room to physically tighten the lateral locks, it may be best to mark your Swaybar then remove from vehicle then attach the lateral locks prior to fitment.
2. Tighten the lateral lock bolts down evenly and use mild force to secure.
Note : Please don’t over tighten.
3. After test driving the vehicle, recheck Swaybar position and adjust lateral locks if necessary.

 

Part # - Whiteline KLL130 post-46130-0-42852900-1534033887_thumb.jpg post-46130-0-39945300-1534033913_thumb.jpg

SwayBar- Lateral Lock, I found them here for $31.32 Free Shipping

 

https://www.bing.com/aclick?ld=d3N4ZdI6-KRyhwsYl7uSbEbjVUCUxTe41iMxl5Vu1svkGtLOjOND8f1gtp3TwkS4S9C3EaKnEUdrUsxsRQuGS9LVm1e2In-ecStQ3rTn5JEzypHuMkElA-yEOE_4j6xx4zaJXsYL5tM9hxuDZt1bhJg3z0EnMyhYr_o25ptEVBdLDr81Lk&u=https%3a%2f%2fwww.carid.com%2fwhiteline%2fsway-bar-alloy-lateral-lock-kit-mpn-kll130.html%3fview%3d178369%26utm_source%3dmicrosoft%26utm_medium%3dcpc%26utm_campaign%3d53463042%26utm_content%3d4181287667

Edited by Xtra
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The sway bar is between 1.127 and 1.130 inch diameter so that would require the 28 to 30mm or 1 and 1/4 inch lateral lock. I like the idea and I am going to order some for my car. A super easy and lightweight fix . Great find veener79 :victory:

 

Alloy high performance lateral locks are designed to maintain Swaybar centralization.[/size]

 

 

 

 

1. Once you have your Swaybar in position and central with links attached,

attach the lateral locks next to the mounting bush (leave approx 3-4mm gap).

This can be either side of the mounting bush but its best to aim for the most accessible area on the Swaybar. If there is little room to physically tighten the lateral locks, it may be best to mark your Swaybar then remove from vehicle then attach the lateral locks prior to fitment.

2. Tighten the lateral lock bolts down evenly and use mild force to secure.

Great Post Extra...Thanks for the post and Link.

Note : Please don’t over tighten.

3. After test driving the vehicle, recheck Swaybar position and adjust lateral locks if necessary.[/size]

 

 

 

 

Part # - Whiteline KLL130 attachicon.gifKLL130.jpg attachicon.gifKLL130-3.jpg

SwayBar- Lateral Lock, I found them here for $31.32 Free Shipping

 

https://www.bing.com/aclick?ld=d3N4ZdI6-KRyhwsYl7uSbEbjVUCUxTe41iMxl5Vu1svkGtLOjOND8f1gtp3TwkS4S9C3EaKnEUdrUsxsRQuGS9LVm1e2In-ecStQ3rTn5JEzypHuMkElA-yEOE_4j6xx4zaJXsYL5tM9hxuDZt1bhJg3z0EnMyhYr_o25ptEVBdLDr81Lk&u=https%3a%2f%2fwww.carid.com%2fwhiteline%2fsway-bar-alloy-lateral-lock-kit-mpn-kll130.html%3fview%3d178369%26utm_source%3dmicrosoft%26utm_medium%3dcpc%26utm_campaign%3d53463042%26utm_content%3d4181287667

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The sway bar is between 1.127 and 1.130 inch diameter so that would require the 28 to 30mm or 1 and 1/4 inch lateral lock. I like the idea and I am going to order some for my car. A super easy and lightweight fix . Great find veener79 :victory:

 

Alloy high performance lateral locks are designed to maintain Swaybar centralization.

 

1. Once you have your Swaybar in position and central with links attached,

attach the lateral locks next to the mounting bush (leave approx 3-4mm gap).

This can be either side of the mounting bush but its best to aim for the most accessible area on the Swaybar. If there is little room to physically tighten the lateral locks, it may be best to mark your Swaybar then remove from vehicle then attach the lateral locks prior to fitment.

2. Tighten the lateral lock bolts down evenly and use mild force to secure.

Note : Please don’t over tighten.

3. After test driving the vehicle, recheck Swaybar position and adjust lateral locks if necessary.

 

Part # - Whiteline KLL130 attachicon.gifKLL130.jpg attachicon.gifKLL130-3.jpg

SwayBar- Lateral Lock, I found them here for $31.32 Free Shipping

 

https://www.bing.com/aclick?ld=d3N4ZdI6-KRyhwsYl7uSbEbjVUCUxTe41iMxl5Vu1svkGtLOjOND8f1gtp3TwkS4S9C3EaKnEUdrUsxsRQuGS9LVm1e2In-ecStQ3rTn5JEzypHuMkElA-yEOE_4j6xx4zaJXsYL5tM9hxuDZt1bhJg3z0EnMyhYr_o25ptEVBdLDr81Lk&u=https%3a%2f%2fwww.carid.com%2fwhiteline%2fsway-bar-alloy-lateral-lock-kit-mpn-kll130.html%3fview%3d178369%26utm_source%3dmicrosoft%26utm_medium%3dcpc%26utm_campaign%3d53463042%26utm_content%3d4181287667

 

Thanks for the heads up! I'll order them after brunch!

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That bad, the suspension will bind if you have it on jacks like it says in the directions, you can totally remove it by just laying on your garage floor like i did. The only hard thing about it is breaking the bolts in the first place. All my bracket bolts seemed to be way over tightened. Also when you remove the end links, i used a t40 or so torx wrench to hold the endlink bolts on the end otherwise theyll just spin with the nut as you remove it.

Received my bar this morning, just in time to get it installed this weekend! :rockon:

 

Any tips on a smooth install? On paper, removing the OEM bar and installing the new one is as straightforward as it gets. But, should I put the rear of the car up on jack stands for more room to work, then put my floor jack under the rear diff and jack it up to about normal ride height? I'm thinking this would take any potential preloading off the links. Would this be the easiest approach?

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I actually held off on putting mine in yesterday because I noticed this. The links are pretty damn close to the electronic parking brake mechanism and I didn't want to install the new bar without shaft collars to keep it centered. I got mine from McMaster Carr, they're just two-piece hard anodized aluminum shaft collars w/ stainless steel bolts. I paid the same as you guys, $30 for the pair. I'll get my bar installed today or tomorrow.

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