Shifter handle

[akirby]

I'm NOT talking about everyday driving - I've already said there is no benefit to using the paddles in everyday driving except to occasionally force a downshift or hold a gear. If you're only using it occasionally it doesn't matter where they put the controls.

 

I'm talking about high performance driving and it is possible to keep your hands at 9 and 3 the whole time. I've done it on a racetrack with 90 degree + turns. It's not that difficult. I didn't actually use the paddles but I could have if necessary because my hands never had to move.

 

There is no point continuing to argue - if you prefer the console shifter that's great. Others prefer the paddles. On the street it really doesn't matter.

[tmarsh]

And I prefer the buttons on the shifter. Which this argument has nothing to do with my original post.

 

I did research and found a shifter to fit. Once I get it installed and working I will report back. It really wont be difficult to do.

Edited November 14, 2017 by tmarsh

[commbubba19]

I'm NOT talking about everyday driving - I've already said there is no benefit to using the paddles in everyday driving except to occasionally force a downshift or hold a gear. If you're only using it occasionally it doesn't matter where they put the controls.

 

I'm talking about high performance driving and it is possible to keep your hands at 9 and 3 the whole time. I've done it on a racetrack with 90 degree + turns. It's not that difficult. I didn't actually use the paddles but I could have if necessary because my hands never had to move.

 

There is no point continuing to argue - if you prefer the console shifter that's great. Others prefer the paddles. On the street it really doesn't matter.

 

but the edge isn't a race car. so if you're not racing it, when would you use the paddles? just like you said, at random times and infrequent. so then why not just have them on the console? marketing gimmick, that's why (and what I've been saying). my point this whole time is normal street cars having flappy paddles is stupid no matter where they are. They are street cars, not race cars.

 

i've raced manuals, steering mounted paddles, and sequential style. manual is best, but because i prefer a manual on track, i tend to prefer sequential style as well. i hate flappy paddles. just stupid.

 

I'll be interested in the OP's findings. The shifter mechanism internally hopefully is the same across both generations. The issue may come up if the wiring is integrated into the vehicle CANBUS. That may cause headaches getting it to work correctly with the shifter handle. Keep us posted.

[akirby]

 

i hate flappy paddles. just stupid.

 

So why not just stop at "I hate flappy paddles" and leave it at that. Other people like them and don't have a problem using them.

[candurin]

Feeling nostalgic. I remember the first "autostick" I drove was my buddy's Eagle Vision back in the mid 90's (it was his father's actually).

 

That car was on Olds looking Mitsubishi knockoff sedan and we had a blast taking that thing back and fourth from school.

Edited November 15, 2017 by candurin

[tmarsh]

So I got this project finished up today. Start to finish took me 2 hours. Half of that was trying to find a service manual online for access to the wiring schematics.

 

There are only 3 wires, shift up, shift down, and common. No programming, simple circuitry.

 

I used a shift handle from an MK3 focus (12-current), $40 on eBay. Same leather, same brushed chrome finish. Only removed enough of the center console to get to get the shift handle off. Ran a multi conductor wire from shifter to steering column. Pulled the 3 pins from the clock spring for the paddle shifters, and replaced them with the new wires to the shift handle.

 

If you feel inclined to do this, you could use both the paddles and the shift handle in parallel, just tap the new wires into the existing instead of re pinning the connector.

I did this to use my paddles for something else, I needed two momentary switches and preferred my shifting be done from the shift handle. My opinion, no further argument needed.

 

If anyone wanted to tackle this, or anything else electrical related, id be glad to help.

Edited November 20, 2017 by tmarsh

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

So this is like the shift knob you used?

[tmarsh]

So this is like the shift knob you used?

Yes. Exactly that.

[commbubba19]

I'm surprised the shifter handle was plug/play.

[tmarsh]

Well not necessarily plug and play. The handle fits on the shift assembly, because its the same thing but with buttons on the side of it. Unbolt the old one and bolt up the new one, but you still have to wire it in at the steering column to make the buttons work for select shift, as I said in my earlier post.

Edited November 20, 2017 by tmarsh

[tmarsh]

I will get some pictures of the location on the steering column, the old shifter so you can see how it mounts, and post the wiring schematic on the subject later today.

[commbubba19]

I will get some pictures of the location on the steering column, the old shifter so you can see how it mounts, and post the wiring schematic on the subject later today.

 

 

Yeah Pics would be great. Props for diving into the unknown like that. I knew the wiring wouldn't be an issue. I'm just surprised the shifter mechanism swapped over so easily.

[tmarsh]

Lol. Im a tinkerer. If I have free time, Im messing with something. So more often then not, I dive into the unknown on something.

My other problem is once I get an idea in my head, theres no stopping till its done.

 

Heres the shifter.

The only one I could find that had both buttons and leather was from a focus. The C-Max has leather but only has an overdrive button. The Fusion does not have it in leather. I did not check for the Escape. But all the other models I didn't list have different shifters. Getting the shifter out is a process. Start with removing the upper side trim of the center console. Followed by removing the cup holders. The rest is self explanitory.

 

On the steering column, to get it apart there is a hex head bolt and a torx screw. Once it is apart, here is what you are looking at.

The plug for the clock spring is in the red circle, kinda hard to see. All of the steering wheel buttons go through this plug, the airbag is in the plug on the other side, so don't worry about that.

 

Here are the schematics for the wiring and the plug.

The circuit in general. The signal is sent from the PCM to both paddle switches. When a switch is pressed, it closes the circuit and sends the signal back to the PCM. Simple stuff there.

 

Here is the pinout of the clock spring connector, C226. Even though this is directly out of a 15 edge service manual, the wires on my 15 sport were not the color listed on the chart. In fact none of them were the same. It happens. You can verify by pins used or by the wire gauge of the wires in it, for those that might not know, the larger the number the smaller the wire.

 

Here is the pin location on the connector C226. This view is of a male plug, looking at it head on. Most connectors have the pins labeled on the face of them. The face is opposite of the side the wires come in on. For those that don't know.

 

The shifter I ordered, had black brown and white wires. The black wire is the common, and will get connected to pin 11. Brown wire is shift up and connects to pin 10. White wire was shift down, and connects to pin 9.

 

I hope this helps!

Edited November 23, 2017 by tmarsh

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Cool mod. Let us know how it works out in practice.

[Gadgetjq]

Many many thanks to TMarsh for posting this mod.

I used his excellent instructions to swap out gearshift knobs today and it's working great. The photo above shows a Ford Focus (2012-2014) part installed in the '16 Edge.  It was $27 on eBay.  Note the two push button switches.

 

I'm going to add a couple of items that might answer questions others might have when doing this.

1. Watch the first part of this video first.  It'll help with removing some of the center console parts.  Don't worry, everything just snaps out no muss, no fuss. You can stop 3:30 into the video with all the info you'll need.

 

2. Check out this Selector Lever Knob.pdf for help actually removing the old shift knob.  Once the cup holder assembly is removed (video link above) you can pry up the black square from the shift assembly.  There are four keepers.  Pull (gently) and the leather trim will turn inside out.  Now you can cut the zip tie holding the trim to the shifter.  There are two Phillips head screws holding the shift knob to the post.  Remove them and the knob will pull right off.

3. I reversed TMs instructions for connections in the steering column so my top button upshifts and the bottom button downshifts.  Totally up to you, just check the button continuity to identify which color wire does what before installing.

 

4. A little counter intuitive is removal of the steering column cover.  You'll be using a T20 Torx driver and a 7mm socket on the bottom of the column.  When those two fasteners are removed you can lift the 'top' of the column cover partway off.  It'll stay attached by a strip of leather so don't get crazy pulling on it.

 

5. I used this multi-conductor cable for the wire run.  You only need three of the four wires so can pull off the extra and you'll have a whole bunch left over. 

 

This photo shows the connector with my homemade back probes installed.  Note: If you don't want to make your own probes they can be purchased from MirrorTap.  You have to call them 888-497-8388 and order a set of MTX-TAPS.  I don't know the cost.  Another option is to cut or strip (good luck, it's 26 gauge) the three wires and splice yours in. 

And this one shows the OEM plug back in place. 

 

Button everything back up and go for a ride.  Now you have the option of up/down shifting with your hand on the shift lever or using the paddles.  This works in both Drive and Sport mode except in Sport mode the transmission will wait for your button push or paddle pull.  In Drive you can up/downshift on your own but the transmission can override your commands. 

 

Finally, tattling on myself:

1. I lost the two screws holding the shift knob to the stalk.  I 'knew' exactly where I'd placed them but when it was time to put everything back together couldn't find them anywhere.  I searched 45 minutes with my son helping.  Suddenly I heard "uh, dad."  He was holding my led flashlight, the one I'd been using most of this time to find the screws.....the one with the strong magnet on the base.  Yep, at some point I'd placed the flashlight near the screws and it collected them.  I'd essentially had them in my hand the whole time I searched.  DOH!

 

2. When connecting the wires to the steering post plug my hatch popped open.  Gads, do I have the wrong connectors?  How could this happen?   I went back and closed the hatch.  A few minutes later it happened again!  What?  Turns out when working with the wires I was touching the hatch button on the dash.  Again....DOH!

 

Cheers!

Edited July 11, 2019 by Gadgetjq
added link

[scorpionking0102]

Good day to all,

I’m glad to see this mod. I was wondering how to remove the “piano black” trim around the cup holders without damaging it. I want to remove mine and have it covered in carbon fiber to match the dash trim on my Sport. Although it looks nice, it will show swirl scratches if not kept clean with a microfiber cloth.

Edited July 10, 2019 by scorpionking0102
Punctuation

[Gadgetjq]

7 minutes ago, scorpionking0102 said:

 I was wondering how to remove the “piano black” trim around the cup holders without damaging it.

Watch the first 3:30 of this video. 

Cheers!