nalbrecht13 Posted October 16, 2017 Report Share Posted October 16, 2017 Hello everyone, I own a 2013 Edge, and the FOB that came with the vehicle (used) was cracked and the keyless entry wasn't working. I recently purchased one from Amazon and took it into the dealership to get programmed. They told me it would program, but it would lose connection after a few minutes. Anyone else ever have this issue? as Winter is approaching, I would like to get my keyless entry working. They did tell me that if I bought an OEM, they wouldn't charge me again for labor to program it, but that's $130...is that my only option here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nalbrecht13 Posted October 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2017 Extra information pertaining to this. I bought the car off a salvage lot, so it had been sitting awhile and the battery worked, but wasn't the best. My FOB worked when I initially bought the vehicle, but it quit right around the time the battery was replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted October 16, 2017 Report Share Posted October 16, 2017 Any possibility the battery in the "new" FOB is dying? No way of knowing how long it sit at the sellers store front. Just a few bucks to rule this out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nalbrecht13 Posted October 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2017 Had the battery tested, and it was not bad at all. Did notice a tad amount of corrosion I believe he said, but the new one off Amazon would only stay programmed for a couple minutes. That's what confuses me about this. I've scoured these forums looking for anything that resembles my situation, but don't have a clue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted October 17, 2017 Report Share Posted October 17, 2017 I believe that I would clean the FOB contacts first, just to eliminate the FOB. The fact that the car takes the programming and then doesn't retain the programming indicates that the RKE may be bad in the car. I don't know if would help or not, think I would try pulling the RKE fuses for a few minutes and see if it resets the unit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nalbrecht13 Posted October 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2017 Thanks, will try that. Looking at the fuse manual, is this going to be the unlock/lock relays? Or are there more fuses I need to pull? Thank you so much for helping me out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmr061 Posted October 18, 2017 Report Share Posted October 18, 2017 So this is an aftermarket IKT? Key with fob built into it? If so those usually take two programming steps. The one to start the car and the one to program the fob portion of it. Did it come with instructions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nalbrecht13 Posted October 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2017 The one that came with the vehicle I believe was the original key, but I'm not positive -- it has SA on it. That one quit working around the time I replaced the car battery. The second one which only stays programmed for a couple minutes is aftermarket off Amazon. It did not come with instructions, as the dealership or locksmith needs to program it since I don't have 2 keys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmr061 Posted October 18, 2017 Report Share Posted October 18, 2017 To program the fob portion of it you will need to do the key on/off 8 times trick. http://www.keyfobprogram.com/ford-keyless-remote-key-fob-programming-instructions-1/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted October 18, 2017 Report Share Posted October 18, 2017 (edited) The one that came with the vehicle I believe was the original key, but I'm not positive -- it has SA on it.The 2013 Edge uses an 80 Bit transponder-equipped key to communicate between the FOB and the remote receiver. Strattec Corp is the only Ford authorized manufacturer of Ford 80 Bit IPATS key blanks. They also have SA stamped on the blade. (If if has HA on the blade it was manufactured by Huf, the only other authorized supplier, and is not an 80 Bit FOB). If your replacment does not have a S or SA stamped on the blade, it should be regarded as a 40 Bit FOB, and will not work in your car. . Edited October 18, 2017 by enigma-2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nalbrecht13 Posted October 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2017 To program the fob portion of it you will need to do the key on/off 8 times trick. http://www.keyfobprogram.com/ford-keyless-remote-key-fob-programming-instructions-1/ Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't I need 2 working FOBs to manually program one? It went through the cycle, and the original FOB made the doors unlock/lock signifying programming, but nothing happened to either fob. So there must be something in the relay in the vehicle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nalbrecht13 Posted October 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2017 Both keys have SA on them. Will try playing with the fuses tonight. Is it just the lock/unlock fuse? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmr061 Posted October 18, 2017 Report Share Posted October 18, 2017 Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't I need 2 working FOBs to manually program one? It went through the cycle, and the original FOB made the doors unlock/lock signifying programming, but nothing happened to either fob. So there must be something in the relay in the vehicle? So it entered programming mode but pressing a button on either fob didn't make the vehicle respond by cycling the door locks? Is the TPMS light on by chance? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted October 19, 2017 Report Share Posted October 19, 2017 Both keys have SA on them. Will try playing with the fuses tonight. Is it just the lock/unlock fuse?I don't have the 2013 service manual, but looking at the owners manual, fuse #6 is for the radio frequency module. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nalbrecht13 Posted October 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2017 Correct, neither FOB's buttons worked, but it entered programming mode. I'm guessing the TPMS light is the tire pressure? Yes, it has been on since I bought the vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted October 25, 2017 Report Share Posted October 25, 2017 Yes. They have batteries in them, but should last more than five years. Do you have OEM wheels or aftermarket? Possible that someone put on aftermarket and cheaper out by not using sending units in each wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmr061 Posted October 25, 2017 Report Share Posted October 25, 2017 That is your issue. You need to get that corrected. They use the same receiver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nalbrecht13 Posted October 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2017 I believe they are the original tires/wheels as they only have 45k on them. I will take it into the Dealership today and get that fixed! Will let you know! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nalbrecht13 Posted October 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2017 So I took it into the Dealership yesterday, and they got a reading off all the TPMS, and the tires were inflated correctly, but the light remains on. Now I'm really confused. Has to be something in the computer??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candurin Posted October 26, 2017 Report Share Posted October 26, 2017 So, I'm not entirely sure what the actual issue is. Can you not program the fobs or do they disconnect all the time? Here's the procedure I used for programming the button/fob portion of my IKTs. Procedure : 1.Close all doors, then open drivers door and press the Unlock button on drivers door while it is open, insert key into ignition. 2.Turn ignition from OFF to RUN 8 times within 8 seconds, with the 8th time ending in RUN. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming mode. (if the door locks do not cycle, then it was done incorrectly. You must start over by removing key and beginning from step 1) (Off is the position where you can remove your key, RUN is the position just shy of starting your car.) 3.Within 10 seconds press any button on the first keyless remote to be programmed. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming. If you only have one remote then skip to step 5. 4.Within 10 seconds, press any button on the second keyless remote. Door locks will cycle again to confirm programming. Repeat step 4. for all other remotes. 5.Turn ignition to OFF. Locks will again cycle to indicate end of programming mode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nalbrecht13 Posted October 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2017 They won't stay programmed....it has something to relate to the TPMS light being on, which is my new question, as to why it's on. All the monitors got a reading and all tire pressures were good. So it must be something in the computer system.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted October 26, 2017 Report Share Posted October 26, 2017 (edited) So I took it into the Dealership yesterday, and they got a reading off all the TPMS, and the tires were inflated correctly, but the light remains on. Now I'm really confused. Has to be something in the computer???Did they retrain the sensor's? Simple procedure, the walk around to each wheel with a handheld device and it trains (teaches) the receiver to recognize each sensor). If one or more is not trained you will get this alarm. Edited October 26, 2017 by enigma-2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nalbrecht13 Posted October 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2017 I'm sorry I can't figure out this quote thing...but he walked around to each one with a tool and they all read. I asked him to find which one was throwing the error, if that's the same thing as training them? I've driven well over 200 miles since then. Thinking about unhooking my battery, and rehook it after awhile? Will that do anything? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmr061 Posted October 26, 2017 Report Share Posted October 26, 2017 They need to read the vehicle for DTCs. It sounds like they are incompetent. The light is on. The system has a malfunction. First thing is to check for DTCs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmr061 Posted October 27, 2017 Report Share Posted October 27, 2017 sounds like the tmps receiver is missing or defective Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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