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2011-2014 Parasitic battery drain


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Anyone else have their dash screen not turn off sometimes? Once in a while I'll notice it and jump back in to cycle the key which does turn it off. I've been driving a second vehicle lately and noticed the Edge's battery dies if it sits for a week or so. Not sure if it's the dash screen draining the battery cuz I don't always check it. I'm thinkin about just installing a battery switch under the hood.

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The instrument cluster should not remain on.

 

This may be unrelated to the problem, but I've had an occasion or two where I shut the car off, pulled the key, opened the door and the radio was still on. Put the key back in the ignition, pulled it out and the radio went off.

 

Fixed it by squirting some lubricant into the ignition cylinder. (Figured it was a pin sticking).

 

As far as the battery, one of the new type of pulse chargers can reset the battery to allow it to take a full charge again. (Short trips can cause the plates to crystallize). Here's an example of one of the best: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006G14FK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NSL2zbFH6E2Y0

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Took the battery out today to clean it up and put a nice charge on it. Went to install it and noticed that the positive cable is not getting tight enough even if I crank the bolt down. Some kinda crazy wedge design that seems to be working but just not getting tight enough. Any suggestions?????

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I had to replace that part on my 2009. When I was replacing the back spark plugs I had to remove the battery. That piece was so corroded that it broke. I was worried I would have to replace the entire wiring assembly but I found I could purchase just the wedge piece and bolt that you are talking about. That was in May of 2013 and the total cost of that part was $16.70. I thought I had a picture of the diagram showing that part and number. I haven't found it yet. I will post it if I find it so you can get the part number.

 

Note, until I got the part I used a hose clamp to wrap around the connector and hold it tight. Surprisingly, it held.

 

The part number is 7T4Z14450A. Google it and you will find a picture of it. I did not use the entire clamp just the parts that I needed off of it.

 

Also note, I would douse it with lubricant because it likely can't slide due to corrosion. That was why I had to replace it.

Edited by evh
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Have you cleaned your battery posts/and or clamps frequently? Using those wire brush cleaners remove some of the lead from the post every time you clean them, eventually the post diameter is too small for the clamp to tighten around.

 

This link shows battery post shims, which can bring the post back to proper diameter.

 

https://www.grainger.com/product/25KC79?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!166595346872!!!!82495988037!&ef_id=Wdy3wwAAAFu4LEX5:20171010165732:s&kwid=productads-adid^166595346872-device^c-plaid^82495988037-sku^25KC79-adType^PLA

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  • 1 month later...

Battery was a group 59 Advance Auto Autocraft and was actually coming up on it's 3rd birthday. Took it in this morning and they swapped it out under warranty. Nice thing is they upgraded me to a group 65 850 CCA. Gotta like 3 year free replacement!!:):) The positive battery clamp did fit nice and snug on this new battery.

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