Type and grade of engine oil change for 2011 Edge SEL FWD 3.5L

[Edgingage]

Ok; sure. Thanks.

 

- Oil: Can anybody please provide the pouring temp for Castrol Edge EP and/or FS 0W20 and/or 5W20?

 

- Filter: I have to confess that I never knew or heard before about the "rattle" caused by an oil filter. I don't know if it's a matter of fine-tuning my ears or that I was attributing certain noise to the pistons instead of the oil filter.

 

Now, Ultra Synthetic FRAM filter states that it's good for synthetic oil. EP Mobil 1 filter states that it's good for both synthetic and conventional oils. MotorCraft is meant for blend oils (according to my interpretation of the info provided in this tread). The reason of my following questions is because while Mobil 1 filter states that it's good for both type of oils, FRAM filter states that it's good for synthetic oil (it doesn't mention conventional oil). My questions now are:

- if I use MC filter, is it good/ok to use it with full synthetic/extended performance oils, or just with blend oils?

- if M1 filter is good to use with both types of oils (synthetic and conventional, as stated by M1), is this "dual-type" filter better for use with synthetic oils than a ("single-type") filter meant to be used with synthetic oil only, as FRAM seems to be?

 

To round up my questions: using a MC filter or a M1 EP filter (with EP or FS oils) is it any better than using a FRAM Ultra Synthetic filter meant for synthetic oil only? Or it doesn't matter if you use a synthetic oil filter with a conventional oil, or vice versa, for instance?

 

And yes, chefduane, I have no rush to make a decision yet among sooo many choices and variables (plenty of time to the next oil change; that's why I'm consulting here now and appreciate everybody's input); and I also know that any oil is better than none, ..even for cooking! (in an effort at my humor LOL

Edited September 23, 2017 by Edgingage

[enigma-2]

All good questions, I believe the answers your looking for are on this site.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/forum_summary

 

Oil in terms oil forum, filters in the filters forum. More there to read than you have time for. ?

 

Happy hunting and don't forget to post here what you found.

 

.

Edited September 24, 2017 by enigma-2

[Edgingage]

Hello enigma-2 and all!

 

This is what I found:

 

- 0W20: this oil grade seems not to be appropriate for use in the 2011 Edge as this oil grade does not meet Ford WSS-M2C930-A requirements.

Note: some manufacturers of this oil grade meet other Ford requirements like -M2C945-A, -M2C946-A and/or -M2C947-A. However, my understanding and interpretation from all the readings I did is that an oil meeting the "latest" requirement (by numerical order) does not necessarily mean that the previous requirements (in reverse chronological order) are/were superseded. In summary, my interpretation is that if an oil does not specifically meet Ford -M2C930-A requirement, it means that its used has not been approved or officially accepted by Ford Motor Company. So, my initial thought to use oil with one grade down for the freezing months is out of "choice" (for me). Therefore, it's narrowed down to the 2011 Ford Edge Owner's Manual recommendation: 5W20 (allyearound), which is what many of you had said/written before

 

- 5W20; which brand name? Oh well, all are good. However, I couldn't find info stating that Royal Purple meets Ford WSS-M2C930-A requirements. Therefore, I left Royal Purple out of my choices. My decision will be based on three things: availability, price and pouring temp (yes, I'm in Canada and I KNOW how the engine "cries" at startup after been sitting at -20/-25 Celsius degrees for hours, adding that my commute is only 7-8 min or 4-5 Km and therefore the engine has not even reached the operating temp when I shut it off again! And no, I can't walk 4-5 Km at -37/-42 Celsius with the windchill factor!! .

Note: all 5W20 manufacturers reporting NOACK Volatility (% weight loss) have about the same good low value.

1. Amsoil is not available in the local store where I can get all the other brands at stiff discount prices (35%-55% off the regular price), but it'd definitively be the #1 choice; no doubts.

2. Surprisingly (for me) Pennzoil Ultra Platinum came up as my second choice (probably first, if I can't find Amsoil at a comparable price). It offers the second lowest pour temp, although also the lowest flash temp: 207 Celsius (not sure if that's OK or not). Another thing that I couldn't find about Pennzoil (which I'll really appreciate your help to find it out and let me know) is the mileage or time this oil is meant to be used for (6K km, 10K km, 24K km, 6 moths, one year???).

3. Movil 1 Extended Performance came very very close to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. As a matter of fact, if I can't know how long the Penn UP use is good for (mileage or time), I'll disregard its lower pour temp and choose M1 EP as my choice #2, or maybe #1 is Amsoil price is not comparable.

4. Quaker State Ultimate Durability, very very similar to M1 EP except that I couldn't find how long its use is good for either (mileage/time?).

5. Then came Castrol Edge EP. Why? ...Because... I like its name: Edge for my Edge (just kidding Of course it also has very good properties, characteristics and specs, but its pour temp is the higher among all other well known FSs.

6. Valvoline Synpower is the last (but not the very least) in my list. I just need to stop It's very comparable with the rest above and, actually, a very comparable price, like the cheaper (or less expensive) of all mentioned above. But I couldn't find how long it'll go either.

 

If I have two pick two in a blink, they'll probably be Movil 1 Extended Performance and Castrol Edge Extended Performance because they offer a peace of mind in case I "forget" (neglect?) to change it on time. They both states to be good for up to 24-25K or one year. Amsoil states about the same but it's notably much more expensive compared to the discount/sale prices of M1 EP and CE EP.

 

Filters? That'll be for another tread For now I'll go with M1 EP or FRAM US. They also states to work good for up to one year or 24-25K (again, just in case

 

I want to thank you all once again for "pushing" me to read and making me learn a little bit about this immense world of engine/motor oils.

 

Take care.

Edited September 24, 2017 by Edgingage

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

K let us know how it works out! But experimentation costs time & money. I will sacrifice a few $ if it means getting to the right product for me, but don't confuse it with not agonizing even over those $, LOL. What that means is just because I have newly installed oil and/or filter, if I am not happy with it, I will not run it the full length of time. I will change it out ASAP.

 

For all intents and purposes, all these "reasonable cost" oils run neck and neck in quality. They are allowed to claim "full synthetic"-ness by law, but they are not truly. Doesn't matter. The additive packages work well enough to overcome weaknesses in the base oil, for normal interval oil changes. Mobil1-Annual ups the additive packages to perform to their claims. Base oils used are AFAIK unchanged.

 

Don't be stingy with oil (or fluid) changes. Especially since you cannot rely on the IOLM in the 2011, use engine hours, not the IOLM. Your concern is with low temp startups, and I definitely would not do extended interval oil changes. Plus your driving is Special Operating Conditions, terrible for the engine.

 

In 6 months, assuming you go to work 5 days a week every week, you only put on, what 800 (or 1,600?) miles??? That is going to kill the engine if you don't change oil regularly. The engine will be running rich most of not all the time it is operating. Fuel dilution, fouled plugs & oxygen sensors, etc. will result.

 

Make sure there is no oil in the intake, otherwise a valve cover replacement WILL be needed.

 

Also advise running Techron Concentrate Plus through the fuel system at least once if not twice a year. If you have ethanol in your fuel, a bottle of HEET is highly recommended at least once a year while temps drop to/stay below freezing.

 

Having a block heater/heated garage would be a huge advantage of course

[omar302]

Add only add to WWWPerfA_ZN0W that with the 2011's IOLM you reset it to any percentage in 10's, so you can select whatever suits you. Each 10% would represent 1000 miles. So if you want a reminder after 4000 miles, reset it to 40%.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

I keep meaning to mention that, thanks for the add, omar

[enigma-2]

Sounds good. Go with the Motorcraft filter and forget the Fram (filter were tested on Bobstheoilguy.com, Motorcraft scored excellent, Fram was low).

 

When I was traveling on business in Canada years sgo, everyone seemed to be plugging in their cars overnight. (Also was common in Dakota's and Wisconsin). Any chance od using a block heater?

[Edgingage]

Oh oh; oh boy oh boy oh boy...

 

What I thought will be an innocent question with a straight forward answer has become a great source of information and brainstorming for me at least.

 

Again, I feel VERY lucky and I am extremely grateful for your time folks to share your experiences, information and hints. I think I wrote in my OP here or in the self-introduction forum that my first car was a Mercury when I didn't know anything about cars, just barely driving. After more than 20 years owning and driving cars, after reading so much from your writing and suggested sources, I feel, or better said, I realize that I'm not much better ahead than where I was 20 years ago regarding car knowledge. I thought I knew something about it ...before my OP

 

Anyway, Omar302, thanks for the hint about the IOLM (I don't even know what that stands for or means), but in my case will not be necessary to set it as time will always come before miles. If there is a way to set it up by time (days or hours) then it will be useful for my driving habits.

 

WWWPerfA_ZN0W, you have mentioned several times to use engine hours instead. Is there a way to set or know that, other than keeping a personal record/diary? And I agree with you: all those six-seven oils are very close all together. Even using the apparently lesser of them is still an excellent oil to use. Another thing that I would like to emphasize/clarify is that, even though my choice "in a blink" would be M1 EP or CE EP it is NOT really because I'm planning on running them for their full-year claim but because of the extra protection they are suppose to provide in I'm late or lazy (or cold to change the oil at 6-7 months. So, basically, what I meant was that if that oil is supposed to be good for up to 12 months it should be still very good at only half its life expectancy

 

Going a little bit more further in details: another reason why M1 E1 may still be my first choice it's because it's the only one (besides Amsoil) claiming to be good for "severe driving conditions", which is close to my "special operating conditions", . And that's what I mean with using EP; not that I pretend to go the full extend of the claim but having a peace of mind that the oil should hold good up to about half its claim for me to do the change.

 

Also, I understand and partially agree in throwing extra bucks for quality. But I'm not too shavy to overkill. If Amsoil costs me at least double the M1, and I'm going to replace it half way through its full potential anyway, do I really need to spend those extra bucks on Amsoil? Maybe I will... (?)

 

WWWPerfA_ZN0W, you also brought up another interesting point that I don't know about either (strange : "make sure there's no oil in the intake". What do you mean? How can I know? Is there a way for me to know that? I heard/read in other forums some time ago about not passing the full mark in the oil stick (not overfilling with engine oil). Is that what you're referring about?

 

Techron Concentrate Plus through the fuel system? You're killing me What is that? What's that for? I don't know if my gas has ethanol content, I don't think so but I'm going to ask at the gas station. All I know is that the Edge runs with recommended 87 octanes regular unleaded gasoline. That's what I put in at the pump. In previous cars (Chrysler), some time ago, I used to add some kind of additive in the fuel tank to avoid gasoline freezing in the fuel lines because that happened to me with the Mercury (gasoline frozen in fuel lines). Once I got that "engine check" light (in a Chrysler) and stopped adding anything to the fuel tank. I never knew if that's the cause for sure but I have never had any frozen gas in the fuel lines anymore either. I use PetroCanada fuel only all the time and it states that already contains additive for the cold weather (?)

 

Enigma-2, would you please mind to send me the exact link where filters were tested? I got diluted (lost) trying to find that info. FRAM is out now (based in what you just mentioned), but I still would like to consider Mobil 1 Extended Performance filter, if not too much worse than MasterCraft. And I haven't yet heard from anybody commenting if MasterCraft would performe as well with full synthetic oil as it did with a blend... I don't know yet if filter types still will perform as well if interchanged (conventional/blend with synthetic and vice versa).

 

And lastly about block heater/heated garage: my garage is not heated, but for some (I think good) design and configuration in the way the house was built the garage never gets below zero Celsius. It's an attached garage and I think because of a combination of insulation and design it doesn't freeze up. The oil-firing-heating furnace room is located directly underneath the garage floor with an open stairway for access. The garage gets indirect heat loss from the furnace room, plus morning sunshine... It may be a poor design for nowadays's standards and codes regarding the environment, but it's nice to have, despite the heat "loss"

 

As for the block heater, ...I haven't found the power cord in the Edge yet! Where should I be looking for it? I remember having a hard time locating the power cord in my 04 Intrepid; it was kind of hidden, well hidden But yes, whichever car stays out (I have room for only one in the garage) that will get the heater, ...if I can find the cord in the Edge!

 

Many thanks to all and take care folks.

Edited September 24, 2017 by Edgingage

[enigma-2]

Forget the exact URL, was years ago. Mobile One filter was best (most $$$), Motorcraft & Delco were 2nd best. If I find it again, I'll post it here.

 

The stuff you put in your gas tank was probably HEET. Gasoline tends to separate allowing water the separate out (also comes from condensation). What HEET Does is to mix with the water and change it's specific gravity to that of gasoline, and allows the water to be drawn into the engine along with the gas. Water left in the tank will freeze at 32°F or 0°C. Getting the water out will prevent a tank or gas line from freezing up.

 

If you car is factory equipped with block heater (thought Canadian units were) the connection location is in the owners nanual. (At least I think it is).

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

You can choose to track engine hours through the Trip 1 or Trip 2 meter. Generally, people use Trip 2, leave that running, and reset at oil change time. It does roll over at 100 hours tho, so it pays to periodically glance at it to know when it does that. Your owner's manual will tell you how to get to that display, and it may depend on the gauge cluster your Edge came with.

 

Changing the oil at 6/7 months should be fine regardless of which oil you go with out of the ones you listed. Do not NEED the Amsoil, changing the oil & filter on time is more important. I personally note the change in smell of engine oil as it ages, you will note a deterioration over time. If there is fuel smell in the oil, you have a problem. Do not go by color, especially with full synthetic oil. Very misleading.

 

Oil in the intake is checked by looking into the tube that runs between the air filter and the throttle body. You can take the tube off the air filter box end and look into it with a good flashlight. Obviously engine should be off and at ambient at the time Yes, watching the oil level on the dipstick helps too. It will go down quite a bit faster if there IS an issue. Some people have reported almost a QUART lost between oil changes. That is running the risk of oil starvation, no thank you! The replacement valve cover from Ford seems to work quite well.

 

Techron is a fuel system cleaner, cleans out the fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel lines and fuel injectors. It will also clean out the combustion chamber, clearing out any carbon buildup that can create hotspots that lead to preignition, knock, detonation, all those lovely things.

 

HEET - enigma has covered above.

 

Sunshine ... makes me happy ... No need for 0W20 if car is in the garage, for sure! I am waaaaay south of you, and I don't even consider freezing to be cold LOL, barely break out the windjacket weather! Block heater or not, you are set. The only problem I see is when you leave your car outside, say at work or at a client site for hours upon hours when it is well below freezing AND the engine cools down to those temps before you restart it. Wind is the enemy here, as it will carry away the heat much faster than simply cold and no wind.

 

All in all, use 5W20 of your preferred oil, a filter of at least MC FL500s quality, change oil & filter every 6 months (or less), and your Edge should be in great shape, IMHO. And of course make sure the battery stays charged (battery tender of some sort). Short trips will KILL the battery in NO time flat.

[akirby]

Overthink much?

 

Motorcraft filter, motorcraft 5w-20 oil. Nuff said.

[Edgingage]

Oh folks, I thought I had it all for this subject to realize that I'm still "bare" on this subject. I hope you folks still spend your precious time to keep educating me about many things I now know I don't know. I am AND WILL BE very appreciative, sincerely.

 

Enigma-2 and akirby (I don't know what "Nuff" means, BTW), if M1 was shown to be better than MC, and it costs me about the same or less (M1 EP M1-212 = $11.95; MC FL500S = $12.99), why do you still suggest me to use MC instead of M1? I also wonder what type of Fram filter was tested and compared at that time. I was talking about the Fram Ultra Synthetic filter which costs me about the same as MC (XG10575 = $12.79). Not that I still consider to use the Fram filter now that I was given the OK to use M1 EP oil, as I had previously planned to use the M1 EP oil in combination with the M1 EP filter, but I needed to check with you folks if it's ok. Thank you!

 

Thanks a lot for your explanation about what the HEET does and how it works. The thing that I used to put in the gas tank many years ago I thought it was an alcohol-based product (can't remember its name). The explanation I was given at the time was that that alcohol (probably methanol) mixes with the water in the tank and then with the gasoline to all pass through. But again, that was many years ago; I can't really reproduce the details. I stopped using it (after a check engine light came up), but I have never had a freezing gas line in any of my Chrysler at any temp, not even when parked outside at -30 Celsius for hours, ...unless Chrysler is built better than Ford for that matter (?). Petro Canada gas states that they take care of that and... I've never heard a complain on that regard, and I've never had a frozen gas line at any freezing temp again. If that happens with the Edge, then I'll add HEET to the tank. Now I'll have to be careful if I'm going to do so as I need to find out which components are in the HEET additive, as the owner's manual clearly indicates that the Edge is not to use fuel additives with metallic compounds, including manganese-based additives (?) Further ahead it states not to add aftermarket fuel additive products to the fuel tank, it shouldn't be necessary to add any aftermarket products to the fuel tank as these products have not been approved for the Edge engine (?)

 

I don't know if my car is factory-equipped with a block heater; that's my question: how do I know? I bought it used. It's made in Canada, sold in Canada (according to the in-service record from the dealer) and has never being serviced in the US (according to CarProof records, the Canadian version of CarFax). I did fully read the owner's manual (every page!) and have been over again several times on certain parts of the manual. The engine block heater section starts on page 241 and finishes on page 243 (almost two full pages with no spaces). The title of the section reads "(if equipped)". There're very clear instructions and warnings on when and how to use the block heater. There's NOwhere a single mention on where the ... block heater is located LOL; that's why I asked the forum. Where're the Canadian Edge drivers?! Hiding with the block heater? LOL

 

WWWPerfA_ZN0W, thank you very much for the great hint on how to track engine hours. Yes, my Edge has all those different gauge cluster options, including the climate control on the right-hand side of the display (I heard that some of them don't have that option from the steering wheel).

 

Thank you also for the hint on how to check the oil quality while in use but... I have a problem: I'm not sure how to do that (I don't even know what the throttle body is, but I read that it has given a lot of trouble to a lot of people). So, when you say to "take the tube off the air filter", do you mean to remove the tube? I don't want to mess with the throttle body after hearing of so much trouble with it... Please explain, if you wouldn't mind. What I meant with the oil not passing the full mark on the stick (not overfilling) I meant that I have read that overfilling (passing above the full mark on the dip stick) may/can damage the intake (?); that's what I meant... I meant to ask you what caused/provoked your valve cover to blow out (I don't even know what the valve cover part is; sorry).

 

I'm going to look for the Techron around here. I may or not use it (please see what I wrote about regarding additives in the owner's manual), unless it's really suggested as necessary. I don't want to get "check engine" lights and I know that some additives could cause that (like Lucas, for instance).

 

 

I found out that 0W20 is not approved by Ford so I already deviated from that route (but thanks anyways). And wind is also the worst of the worse enemies here too! Imagine, normal outside temp could be -20 degree Celsius but it can reach/be felt the same as if it is -35 degrees Celsius, due to the added effect of the wind (it's called windchill factor). I usually park my car at work facing the south side as the cold wind usually blows from the north side. Not a whole lot but something to try to compensate LOL.

 

Battery "tender" (I didn't get it; sorry). Now, hum..., short trips... Well, I've been doing those type of trips for the last 13 years; I have never have to replace a battery in any of my cars (Chrysler and VW), not even lost charge (I mean, not dead battery)... I looked at the battery inside the car and it seems to be a good one (size wise). I will keep it in mind but for other reason: one other option that I may do (now that my Trepid is fixed and back on the road) is to use my Trepid to commute and keep the Edge parked during work/week days. If my Trepid keeps behaving well, I'll use the Edge only for weekends (just to move it around as I have also heard that it's not a good idea to keep a car parked too long) and for longer trips. ...And for snow storm days!!! Gee haa! (I'll give the Trepid a break on storm days) LOL.

 

Thank you, thank you, folks!

 

Take care all.

Edited September 25, 2017 by Edgingage

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

For the oil consumption, oil in intake, valve cover issue on the 2011-13 MYs, see this video

 

HEET Is basically methanol. It helps keep water in the fuel tank in suspension so the water does not precipitate out and cause gas line freezing. Sounds like Petro Canada addresses this issue so you may not need it.

 

As far as battery, earlier cars were not so electronics dependent. The 2011 Edge is heavily so. it is "normal" for the battery to last 3 years on average. Post pics of your battery if you are unsure as to when it was put into service, what the specifications are. A battery tender is a trickle charger that you put on the vehicle every night or once weekly to make sure the battery stays at full charge and does not slowly get depleted to the point of failure. Normal, lead-acid/SLA type batteries don't like repeated drains.

 

In addition to this forum, https://www.wikipedia.org/is a great resource for learning, I use it often myself for various reasons.

[TheWizard]

And yes, chefduane, I have no rush to make a decision yet among sooo many choices and variables (plenty of time to the next oil change; that's why I'm consulting here now and appreciate everybody's input); and I also know that any oil is better than none, ..even for cooking! (in an effort at my humor LOL

 

I doubt chefduane would recommend either 5W20 or 0W20 for cooking... they tend to overwhelm delicate flavors, especially fish.

 

Wind chill has no bearing on the limits of oil temperature ranges. It is a calculation to approximate how cold it feels to a person but although a wind will cause an engine to cool faster, it will never cool below the ambient temperature. In other words, if the outside temperature is -20, a wind will cause metal to cool to -20 faster than it would without the wind but it won't go any lower than that even if the wind chill ("feels like") temperature is -35.

 

Bear in mind that as interesting as this discussion may be on an intellectual level, chefduane and others are right - once you've eliminated the bad choices, just about any of the oil and filter choices will serve you well. It's more about regular maintenance than it is about any particular brand of oil or filter. Running Amsoil or any other expensive oil is not going to make your engine last any longer unless you intend to significantly extend your oil change intervals. Changed regularly, any one of the quality synthetics or synthetic blends will keep your engine running for a long time. The reason I mention Amsoil specifically is because I have a friend who is an Amsoil distributor who thought it was good enough to run 20,000 miles between changes (as they advertise) and turned his Acura into a smoking pile of junk.

[akirby]

I'm saying with regular maintenance it won't make any measurable difference whether you're using Mobil 1 or Motorcraft oil and filters especially given your low mileage.

[chefduane]

^ +1 Just use a good quality oil and filter and change it regularly. Heck, if you changed them both every 3000 miles even RayLube might be ok.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Where does one purchase said RayLube, dear chef?

[chefduane]

I don't even know if the stuff is still around! I do know that my dad used it in old Chevy Apache 20 we had. I think a quart was like $1.25. After he drained it out of the truck I'd use it in my mini-bike. The Briggs & Stratton 3hp cord puller really ate it up!!

 

http://raylube.com

[macbwt]

I took my 2008 Edge to 285,000 miles on synblend bulk oil and a bulk oil filter. Key was the frequency of oil changes.

[akirby]

I took my 2008 Edge to 285,000 miles on synblend bulk oil and a bulk oil filter. Key was the frequency of oil changes.

Inconceivable!

[Edgingage]

Oh boys! Where should I start? ...I know, from WWWPerfA_ZN0W, who scared the heck out of me!

 

That video you posted (thank you!) Man, you see, this forum is wonderful. Even though I would have found that video on my own (using Wikipedia, YouTube or other resources) I would not have interpreted and understood the importance of finding a little bit of oil in the air filter. It is clear for you and obviously for the guy doing the video (and for many more of you out here) because you know what he's talking about. I didn't! So, THANKS again for such important hint. I'll be ripping that off on the weekend if I can't escape early enough from work and other after-work domestic tasks before the weekend. The day just needs to have more than 24 hours for the working class to have barely enough time for everything else we need to search and learn... LOL

 

But this is becoming interesting (at least for me) even though it may derail just a little bit off the main subject: I mentioned that I was hesitant to add the HEET stuff just because I've never had a freezing gas line issue in any of my Chrysler or my VW ever. I did now remember having that issue about 20-22 years ago; guess what? It was in my Mercury But anyway, as I mentioned to you having seen or read that Petro-Canada adds some stuff in the gas to prevent that from happening, i went to put some gas today and took a picture of its ad sticking on the gas pump (see below). Now, this was not what I read before; they either changed their stuff or name, OR they add something different during the winter months, because that's what I remember having read years ago (something for the winter time).

 

 

Yah, I know; you don't see the connection yet; just wait, keep reading. LOL

 

I was considering, however, to use that Techron Concentrate Plus that you also well explained before about its action cleaning out all those internal combustion parts, not for me to use it in my Edge yet but for my 04 Trepid which hasn't seen any internal cleaning stuff in years. Then, I kept following your suggestion and did a search for Techron and, look at the old tread from other forum I found in my search! (pasted below):

 

Techron Injector Cleaner

Anyone know where I can pickup this additive in the Toronto area? I heard it does wonders and would like to try it on both my cars.

Share:

 

Aug 12th, 2006 5:32 pm

 

I don't think you can get that here. I got 4 bottles left from my last trip to the US.

Aug 13th, 2006 9:40 am

Any Petro-Canada shop.

Goes by the name of Tactrol here."

-(end of paste).

 

Do you see the connection now? LOL

 

So, that Techron additive appears to be "standard" in the Petro-Canada gasoline (at least for the summer months).

 

Back to the main subject (what is it?) LOL Oh yah!

 

I took several pictures of the engine compartment and a close-up of the battery spec and date. Please feel free to ask me for more pictures about anything else you can think you can help me (excuse the poor lighting, please).

 

 

Around here, ppl don't call it tender, they call it battery charger (that's way i didn't recognize the term, besides that English is not my first language). I do have an old one that a friend of mine gave me last year when my Trepid battery went dead after having it parked for several months. I remember that it went dead again and another friend of mine told me to keep it charging all the time but I was afraid that it was going to overcharge and blow up. Then he told me to set it from 12v/6A to 12V/2A. I did that several times for a few days and I haven't had any issues again. It always starts sharp even if not driven for a week or two.

 

And yes, I used to have Wikipedia as my home page in one of my browsers. I actually used it again recently after you suggested me to look at the volatility in the oil specs. Really useful specification. Thanks again!

 

And thank you all folks for your great help, time, advise, suggestions and encouragements. Greatly appreciated.

Edited September 26, 2017 by Edgingage

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Glad that I was able to bring Halloween early to u. SURPRISE!!!

 

Great that PC puts techron in their gas. But it needs to be yearround to be 100% effective. The Techron CP is about 20X the concentration you find at the pump, IIRC. Sometimes you need a high dose cleaner to get effective cleaning. BUT looks like fuel system cleanliness should be a relatively minor problem in your case. People love their Chevron gas in the States, as it too has Techron. But I think it is yearround, compared to PC. I would advise a bottle of Techron Concentrate plus at the end of every winter anyway to get rid of buildup and allow the Tactrol to maintain the cleanliness.,

 

Still do not have an answer to whether PC has gas line antifreeze in the winter months. But since it has been 22 years without an issue, not to worry. Did you find out if they have ethanol in their gas?

 

The battery is the best Motorcraft has to offer, so u are good to go, till likely next winter at least. Still have to keep an eye on it, as even hefty batteries can drain eventually. You can easily telly from cranking speed how it is doing.

 

And yes lower rates of charging are always better, not to exceed 10A rate. You could go 20A, but not good for life of battery. I think battery tenders even charge at 500mA or less!

[Edgingage]

WWWPerfA_ZN0W, I don't think Petro-Canada puts ethanol in its regular unleaded 87-octane gasoline. I haven't seen it stated...

 

I checked the cold air intake tube over the weekend and it's dry so far. Thank you and macbwt for the hint on the valve cover! Not sure if it could still happen later on after so many miles so, I'll check every time I change the engine air filter once a year.

 

Thank you all!

Edited October 4, 2017 by Edgingage

[omar302]

WWWPerfA_ZN0W, I don't think Petro-Canada puts ethanol in its regular unleaded 87-octane gasoline. I haven't seen it stated...

 

I checked the cold air intake tube over the weekend and it's dry so far. Thank you and macbwt for the hint on the valve cover! Not sure if it could still happen later on after so many miles so, I'll check every time I change the engine air filter once a year.

 

Thank you all!

In my car, I saw the oil in the throttle body, in other words, oil was going from the PCV valve through the tube towards the throttle body, but not towards the air filter.

[TheWizard]

WWWPerfA_ZN0W, I don't think Petro-Canada puts ethanol in its regular unleaded 87-octane gasoline. I haven't seen it stated...

 

 

Petro-Canada now has up to 10% ethanol (E10) in all grades of their gasoline. Until recently, their premium grades (SuperClean and Ultra94) were ethanol free but the other grades have been E10 for some time now.