vtchopperdude Posted March 11, 2020 Report Share Posted March 11, 2020 Well...they called back yesterday and said even with the new HVAC module, it's blowing intermittent heat. So, as suspected, they are saying the heater core is clogged. I've already paid $430 for replacement of blend door actuators and the HVAC module. They are saying it's going to be an additional $1059. Does that seem about right? Or am I getting bent over a barrel? I know the dash has to come out, so it's time consuming, but if that's what is required to be done, I'm ok with paying that, but hope they aren't taking advantage of me since THEY misdiagnosed the problem after I told them I changed the blend doors and reset the system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omar302 Posted March 11, 2020 Report Share Posted March 11, 2020 Heater core replacement involved removing the whole dash. So it is a labor intensive job. Also I am not sure if the OEM heater core is sold separately or as an assembly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vtchopperdude Posted March 20, 2020 Report Share Posted March 20, 2020 Finally got the car back today!! All said and done, I paid $1523 out the door. That included replacing both blend door actuators (not the problem), replacing the HVAC control module (not the problem), replacing the clogged heater core (not the real problem), and replacement of a valve (real cause of the problem). They had to pull the dash completely apart, and in the process, broke the trim around the touch screen, which is about $500 to replace (at their cost). So, all said and done, the job was about $3k total, but because they misdiagnosed the problem TWICE and had the car for 2 weeks, they gave me a $750 discount, and are covering the $500 broken plastic piece. Long story short, I spoke directly with the technician. Apparently there is a valve connected to a hose that goes into the transmission. If that valve fails, it lets debris into the heater core, which causes it to clog. I'm not really sure of how the design works, but essentially a $100 part fails, which causes a $3k repair. Seems like a bad design to me. All in all, the dealership took care of me when it came to final cost, considering the multiple failed attempts at properly diagnosing the problem, and breaking interior pieces along the way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vtchopperdude Posted March 20, 2020 Report Share Posted March 20, 2020 For anyone who has this problem in the future, here are the part numbers they replaced: DT4Z19980H: HVAC control module DG1Z18495A: HVAC heater control solenoid assembly 7T4Z18476A: heater core assembly VC3B: anti-freeze top off R&R HVAC module, heater core, and trans cooler valve The trans cooler valve, or heater control solenoid assembly, or whatever you want to call it, was the root cause. It was about $100... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vtchopperdude Posted May 5, 2020 Report Share Posted May 5, 2020 Well it's been about 6 weeks and no issues. It sucks that the design flaw of a $100 part causes close to $2,000 in damage repairs. Oh well, my wife loves the car and it's great for traveling, and we own the car, so fixing was the right choice! Plus, they broke the touch screen radio fascia on reinstall, so they replaced that too, which was around $500 I believe! Brand new touch screen control! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vtchopperdude Posted May 9, 2020 Report Share Posted May 9, 2020 Well that didn’t last long...!!! Only put about 100 miles on it due to COVID telework. Came home today to a big stain on the driveway! Looked under car and the belly pan is soaked in coolant. I pop the hood and there is NOTHING in the radiator overflow! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted May 10, 2020 Report Share Posted May 10, 2020 (edited) Hate when this happens, UGH. Miles on your Edge, history of coolant changes? Is there slime buildup in the reservoir/degas bottle (bottom half)? What coolant was in there prior to the heater core being replaced? Specialty Green, Orange, or other? What coolant did they replace it with? EDIT: BTW, while replacing the heater core IS a labor intensive job, it does not require removing the whole dash as in older MYs of other vehicles. Lots of steps tho: Heater Core And Evaporator Core Housing Removal and Installation NOTE: The O-ring seals used on this vehicle are not interchangeable with all similarly sized O-ring seals used on other Ford products. Use only the O-ring seals specified for this vehicle in the Ford master parts catalog. Recover the refrigerant. For additional information, refer to Section 412-00 . Drain the engine coolant. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03 . Remove the upper intake manifold. For additional information, refer to Section 303-01A or Section 303-01B . Remove the instrument panel. For additional information, refer to Section 501-12 . Remove the 3 driver side carpet pin-type retainers and position the driver side front carpet aside. Remove the 4 LH rear footwell duct pin-type retainers and the LH rear footwell duct. Remove the 2 passenger front carpet pin-type retainers and position the passenger front carpet aside enough to access the 2 front pin-type retainers on the RH rear footwell duct. Remove the 2 front pin-type retainers on the RH rear footwell duct and detach the RH rear footwell duct from the heater core and evaporator core housing. Release the 2 heater hose clamps at the heater core and disconnect the heater hoses. Remove the Thermostatic Expansion Valve (TXV) fitting nut and detach the A/C lines from the TXV . Discard the O-ring seals. To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in). NOTICE: The retaining clips on the plastic evaporator drain tube elbow will break if the elbow is removed from inside the vehicle. If the evaporator drain tube elbow must be removed, the retaining clips must be detached from below the vehicle. If the plastic evaporator drain tube elbow does not need to be removed, only detach the evaporator drain tube from the elbow. Disconnect the evaporator drain tube from the elbow at the floorpan. Remove the 5 heater core and evaporator core housing nuts. To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in). Remove the heater core and evaporator core housing. To install, reverse the removal procedure. Install new O-ring seals lubricated in clean PAG oil. Lubricate the refrigerant system with the correct amount of clean PAG oil. For additional information, refer to Section 412-00 . Fill the engine coolant level. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03 . Evacuate, leak test and charge the refrigerant system. For additional information, refer to Section 412-00 . Heater Core Removal and Installation NOTE: If a heater core leak is suspected, the heater core must be pressure leak tested before it is removed from the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 412-00 . Remove the heater core and evaporator core housing. For additional information, refer to Heater Core And Evaporator Core Housing in this section. Remove the 6 floor duct screws and the floor duct. Remove the heater core tube dash panel seal. Remove the heater tube bracket screw and the heater tube bracket. Remove the 5 fresh air inlet duct screws and the fresh air inlet duct. Disconnect the wire harness from the plenum chamber. Remove the 7 lower facing plenum chamber screws. Orient the heater core and evaporator core housing with the plenum chamber upright. Remove the upper facing plenum chamber screw. Remove the 2 plenum chamber clips and remove the plenum chamber being careful not to allow the evaporator core to become dislodged from the installed position. NOTICE: Do not handle the heater core by the inlet and/or outlet tube to remove. Handling the heater core by the tubes may damage the joints and lead to failure of the heater core. Remove the heater core in the following sequence. Grasp the heater core by the core-side of the heater tube connections and partially remove it from the plenum chamber. Grasp the heater core by the top of the core and remove it from the plenum chamber. NOTE: It is not necessary to carry out this step if the evaporator core has not become dislodged from the installed position during this procedure. If the evaporator core has been moved at any point during heater core removal, remove the evaporator core, verify that the drain seal is installed in the correct position and install the evaporator core in the correct position. To install, reverse the removal procedure. Edited May 10, 2020 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted May 10, 2020 Report Share Posted May 10, 2020 As far as the valve, this is likely what they were referring to (and probably where the leak is from due to faulty repair): Coolant Flow Diagram - 2.0L Gasoline Turbocharged Direct Injection (GTDI) Temperature Control Valve NOTE: The temperature control valve directs warm coolant to the transmission fluid cooler/warmer mounted on the transmission during transmission warm-up and allows the coolant to bypass the warmer when the transmission fluid reaches normal operating temperature. NOTE: At 38°C (100°F) ambient temperature, amber arrows indicate temperature approximately 82°C (179°F). Item Part Number Description 1 — Inlet open when energized 2 — Outlet 3 — Inlet open when de-energized Coolant Flow Diagram - 2.0L Gasoline Turbocharged Direct Injection (GTDI) NOTE: At 38°C (100°F) ambient temperature, green arrows indicate temperature below 82°C (179°F), amber arrows indicate temperature approximately 82°C (179°F), red arrows indicate temperature above 82°C (179°F). Item Part Number Description 1 8101 Pressure relief cap 2 8A080 Degas bottle 3 8C289 Degas bottle-to-radiator hose 4 8005 Radiator 5 8286 Lower radiator hose 6 8260 Upper radiator hose 7 8575 Thermostat assembly 8 8501 Coolant pump 9 8597 Coolant bypass hose connector 10 8597 Coolant bypass hose 11 6051 Cylinder head gasket 12 6049 Cylinder head 13 8K556 Coolant outlet connector adapter 14 18C553 Heater hose assembly 15 18476 Heater core 16 8K153 Turbocharger coolant outlet hose 17 8592 Turbocharger coolant outlet tube 18 6K682 Turbocharger 19 8555 Turbocharger coolant inlet tube 20 7A095 Transmission fluid warmer 21 18N345 Heater hose assembly 22 18594 Temperature control valve 23 6N745 Transmission fluid warmer-to-temperature control valve coolant hose 24 18472 Heater hose 25 6010 Cylinder block Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vtchopperdude Posted May 10, 2020 Report Share Posted May 10, 2020 8 hours ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said: Miles on your Edge, history of coolant changes? Is there slime buildup in the reservoir/degas bottle (bottom half)? What coolant was in there prior to the heater core being replaced? Specialty Green, Orange, or other? What coolant did they replace it with? 102k currently. Bought it with 72k from the dealership where the original owner traded it in. It belonged to an older lady, and all maintenance was done at the dealership. No slime buildup that I can tell. Orange coolant prior to heater core change. I'm assuming they replaced with the same Ford orange coolant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vtchopperdude Posted May 10, 2020 Report Share Posted May 10, 2020 8 hours ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said: As far as the valve, this is likely what they were referring to (and probably where the leak is from due to faulty repair): So, it is dripping down from the passenger side of the engine, where the pulleys are. That valve you reference is on the other side of the engine, so it's not the issue. Is the water pump on these engines internal?? All I know is that I've NEVER had to even top off the coolant since owning this car for 3 years. But, since getting the car back after the repairs, and less than 100 miles, it has lost almost a gallon of coolant. Something tells me that the repair was not done correctly, or when they reassembled something, they caused damage to something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted May 11, 2020 Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 Thankfully the water pumps are external on the ecoboost engines, and cheap to replace as a result. Removal and Installation Drain the cooling system. For additional information, refer to Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding in this section Loosen the 3 coolant pump pulley bolts. To install, tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in). Rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner and detach the accessory drive belt. Make sure the accessory drive belt is positioned so coolant can not contaminate the belt. Remove the 3 bolts and the coolant pump pulley. To install, do not tighten the bolts at this time. Remove the 3 bolts, the coolant pump and the O-ring seal. Discard the O-ring seal. To install, lubricate the new O-ring seal with clean engine coolant. To install, tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in). To install, reverse the removal procedure. Fill and bleed the cooling system. Could be the thermostat housing as well. Thermostat Housing — 2.0L GTDI Removal and Installation NOTE: The thermostat and thermostat housing are replaced as an assembly. Drain the cooling system. Release the 2 clamps and disconnect the 2 coolant hoses. Remove the 3 bolts and the thermostat housing. Inspect the gasket and install a new gasket if necessary. To install, tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vtchopperdude Posted May 12, 2020 Report Share Posted May 12, 2020 Yep, dealership called and said it was the water pump. I find it interesting that the water pump started leaking shortly after they replaced the heater core...coincidence, or not?!?! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted May 12, 2020 Report Share Posted May 12, 2020 Dunno. Hope this is the last of it for a while. 700$ is much more than I thought this job would cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishx65 Posted December 24, 2021 Report Share Posted December 24, 2021 I'm having a problem with the heat not blowing on just the auto setting (2011 SEL with manual controls). The panel, floor, defrost or any combo blows just fine it's just the auto setting that's not working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted December 24, 2021 Report Share Posted December 24, 2021 1 hour ago, fishx65 said: I'm having a problem with the heat not blowing on just the auto setting (2011 SEL with manual controls). The panel, floor, defrost or any combo blows just fine it's just the auto setting that's not working. What temperature for the auto setting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishx65 Posted December 25, 2021 Report Share Posted December 25, 2021 (edited) 14 hours ago, akirby said: What temperature for the auto setting? I usually have it set around 70-73 degrees. Outside temps are below 40. I just reset the system with the power/defrost buttons and there was no change. I hear the blower going in auto mode but nothing is coming out the panel vents. If I switch to panel it blows heat just fine. Edited December 25, 2021 by fishx65 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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