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Jlacyphotos

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Battery and cables are good, changing shifter position doesn't change condition. If I pull the starter relay and jump across it with the key in "run", the motor cranks and runs. That tells me it's between the switch on the cylinder and the PCM (or whatever module the ignition switch talks to) or the PCM and relay. Replaced the relay, no change in condition. It's very intermittent and impossible to reliably duplicate. It almost never happens on cooler days. If the cabin temp is high, like sitting in the sun with the windows up, that's when it happens. If you sit for a bit with the windows down or the doors open it will usually start. It's very frustrating...what's also frustrating is that I changed the switch a bit ago (actually easier than expected) and it would not crank at all with the new switch. I put the old one back in and it cranks...tried moving the wiring around at the connector, visually checked the terminals to be sure none had backed out of the socket and got no change. I went back and forth between switches just to be sure... I'm wondering if there's a programming issue with replacing the switch or something....

 

If it was easier to duplicate or happened more often, I'd just pay the deductible and let the dealer figure it out. The switch was cheaper than my 7/100 deductible so I figured I'd take the chance...

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Do you have Intelligent Access keys? Any codes set in the PCM/BCM/...?

 

The manual lists the following suspects for no-crank conditions:

  • Battery
  • Battery cables
  • Fuses
  • Ignition switch
  • Starter motor
  • Starter relay
  • Run/start relay
  • PCM
  • Transmission Range (TR)
  • Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS)
  • Body Control Module (BCM)
  • Wiring, terminals or connectors

With IA, add on

  • Start/stop switch
  • Brake switch
  • Remote Function Actuator (RFA) module
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