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Front grill removal without taking off bumper?


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Just got a 2017 Edge SEL and haven't stopped playing around with things around yet. I'm going to take a shot in the dark and see if anyone has found a way to remove the grill without taking the entire bumper off. I'm a firefighter and am trying to get my siren speaker and grill lights mounted and I have been tinkering around and haven't found a way yet. Anyone have a solution?

 

And on that note, what are the chances of there being anyone else who has put any emergency lights in their edge? If so what did you do in yours? I'm trying to figure out some of the tail light and high beam wiring at this point. Figuring out the tail light wiring is a pain in the ass btw lol

 

Thanks for the help guys

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I have actually done my last 3 vehicles myself, so I'm not planning to send it to anyone to do installation. It was more of just getting some ideas was all.

 

And as far as taking the whole bumper off, I'm sure it really isn't that bad, I had to take the bumper off my last vehicle when I did the fog lights, I was just trying to weigh out all my options lol

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I installed strobe lights front and rear of our Edge but that was a 2013 and amber/white so I could use the turn signals and backup lights in addition to grille mounted strobe modules. Once the turn signals are replaced with LED bulbs, you can use the Sho-Me 11.1005.STT strobe module to control them. It is designed to strobe brake lights and/or turn signals in such a way that their normal function is still available. For example, if you have the turn signals strobing and then turn on the turn signal, they stop strobing and function as normal signals until cancelled then they go back to strobing automatically. For the grille mount strobes, I just used modules that have the strobe patterns and sync built-in so that an external controller wasn't necessary.

 

I was able to connect front and rear turn signals along with backup lights in the bundle of wires behind the left kick panel (the harness goes from there down the left side to the tail lights). That provided plenty of space for the controller module and the convenience of being close to the dash for switch installation. I also put a light bar across the hatch window that plugged in to the rear power outlet and had it's own strobe controls built-in.

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My fog lights in my old car was like that. Had steady white for the fog and when I turned the emergency lights on it went white and blue but there isn't really a spot in the 2017 to do that.

 

With the tail lights it's all led, so I'm not going to be able to replace anything in the rear. I am going to do a reverse/brake light alternating module. I have done it in my last couple cars and love it, it's simple. I found the bundle it's just going to be a pain to find the right wires is all

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I'll forward you the instructions Nick sent me. It's impossible to remove the grill without removing the entire front end, but it really isn't too bad, the worst are the two screws holding the bumper cover to the fender on both sides so removing the head light assemblies first is easy but necessary.

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  • 3 months later...

roots57,

could you send those instructions to me also? I have a Raptor style grill for my edge.

Are you just trying to install the Raptor grill? Couldn't find the notes Nick sent me before, but I can just explain it to you. Start by removing the black plastic panel underneath the front bumper cover. There are a bunch of small screws along the edge of it, around a dozen of them. You also have to remove at least the screws that attach the front wheel well liners to the front bumper, or just remove the liners all together. I believe I only removed enough to detach it from the bumper cover and enough to allow it to be pulled back to get my hand in there. Then remove the headlamp assemblies, super easy, there are two metal screws and one plastic screw (I think) per light, unplug the wire harnesses and remove them. Then remove the black plastic panel above the grill that covers the hood latch mechanism, its held in place by some plastic push pin fasteners, not screws. Then you need to remove all the screws along the length of the grill at the top, where it connects to the radiator sub-frame. The one tip that Nick shared that was a great idea was leave one or two of these top screws in place (the middle ones), this will keep the front end from dropping to the ground when you remove all the screws. Now for the most difficult part, removing the 3 screws on each side that are tucked down inside the fenders. They are what connects the bumper cover to the fenders. The space is really tight in there, that's the only reason it is difficult. A small ratchet is what I used, but could only back out the screws like one "click" of the ratchet at a time. Once these are off the only thing holding it on is the one or two screws you left in at the top center. Use your foot, or something to prevent it from dropping to the ground, and remove the last screws. There are also wires for the bumper sensors that you need to disconnect if you plan to pull it away from the car. When I replaced my front emblem, I just left the wires connected while I replaced it, but if you are changing the grill, you will need to take it off completely. Hopefully this makes sense, I think it took me around an hour or so.

 

Here is a picture of the underside panel you need to remove, its part number 8310 and is called the Radiator Air Deflector:

 

Edited by roots57
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