Nick Halstead Posted July 1, 2017 Report Share Posted July 1, 2017 Yes, I've run mid to low 13's at the track. I haven't yet ventured into race gas territory but I will the next time I head to the strip, anything to get a couple tenths, right?! 1,500 seems like too low of an RPM to induce wheel hop as the torque curve has barely started its' rise to peak...http://www.automobile-catalog.com/wykres_power_m.php Im not a fan of the race gas at the track. Only cause you arent driving everyday on it. Its like being at a red light telling someone you ran 13 flat but knowing right now your only gonna get a 13.4. Is it great for better numbers most definitely. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xtra Posted July 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2017 Yes, I've run mid to low 13's at the track. I haven't yet ventured into race gas territory but I will the next time I head to the strip, anything to get a couple tenths, right?! 1,500 seems like too low of an RPM to induce wheel hop as the torque curve has barely started its' rise to peak... http://www.automobile-catalog.com/wykres_power_m.php What LMS tune did you use to get mid to low 13's? When I am running a tune I use the 91 Performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
always on edge Posted July 2, 2017 Report Share Posted July 2, 2017 (edited) Im not a fan of the race gas at the track. Only cause you arent driving everyday on it. Its like being at a red light telling someone you ran 13 flat but knowing right now your only gonna get a 13.4. Is it great for better numbers most definitely. I agree. I just want the time slip. What LMS tune did you use to get mid to low 13's? When I am running a tune I use the 91 Performance. I run the 93 performance tune exclusively. I tried the 93 aggressive tune briefly but the (down)shifts were harsh as f***. If you're going to change from 91 to 93, make sure you run a tank of 93 through before you make the switch to the 93 tune. This is advice I followed from Jaime (or is it Jamie, idk) at LMS when I went from 87 to 93. I don't imagine a huge impact going from 91 to 93 but I like to follow the advice of the guys who tuned my car. Edited July 2, 2017 by always on edge 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
always on edge Posted July 2, 2017 Report Share Posted July 2, 2017 The important part to me is at the very end when the chime go's off. What is that? If I had to guess, the chime sounds like it came from your dash cam. It was likely cheering a nice run on the Snake. I like the sound of the MRT, it sounds like it has a bit more of a growl (on accel) than their YouTube videos. I'm still on the fence about getting it myself. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xtra Posted July 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2017 If I had to guess, the chime sounds like it came from your dash cam. It was likely cheering a nice run on the Snake. I like the sound of the MRT, it sounds like it has a bit more of a growl (on accel) than their YouTube videos. I'm still on the fence about getting it myself. That chime was loud as ******* and scared the ******* out of me. LOL. So it was not the car, that is good to hear. No worries. MRT is louder than stock inside the cabin for sure. I would make sure the pipes go far into the exhaust bezels to get the sound out of the car, and that the pipes are centered in the bezel. I think mine are set a little to far back into the bezels, wish they came out another inch or two. The tone is noticeably lower and fuller they sound good without being to loud. The tone is not Ricey but more European in nature. It is a leap of faith to do it without hearing it first. I wrestled with that for a long time. I told the installer that I wanted to keep the muffler and that I might reinstall it if I don’t like the MRT system . I even got a price to reinstall it before I had the work start. I brought a packing blanket with me to take the stock muffler home with me . I wasn’t even sure it would fit, but it went in with room to spare. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted July 2, 2017 Report Share Posted July 2, 2017 LME will adjust shift pressures if you ask them. They have done it quite frequently on the 3.5EB platform. Also, they recommend "overfilling" the trans fluid by maybe a pint or so to keep cavitation from happening. Might be worth asking if this applies to the 2.7EB also. With aggressive tunes, I like to run a bit more octane than the tuner specifies. Ecoboosts like their cushions LOL. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
always on edge Posted July 2, 2017 Report Share Posted July 2, 2017 LME will adjust shift pressures if you ask them. They have done it quite frequently on the 3.5EB platform. Also, they recommend "overfilling" the trans fluid by maybe a pint or so to keep cavitation from happening. Might be worth asking if this applies to the 2.7EB also. With aggressive tunes, I like to run a bit more octane than the tuner specifies. Ecoboosts like their cushions LOL. As soon as I experienced the hard shifts (LMS calls them firm shifts), I called Andrew. He told me the only difference between the 93P and 93A tunes is the shifting and more aggressive shift points, otherwise, the tunes are identical. That's why I went back to the 93P. I experience firm shifts on that tune, not the cringe inducing shifts of the 93A. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted July 3, 2017 Report Share Posted July 3, 2017 Are you monitoring any OBD data? Trans temps in particular. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
always on edge Posted July 3, 2017 Report Share Posted July 3, 2017 Are you monitoring any OBD data? Trans temps in particular. No, can you recommend a scanner? I've not looked into it in depth. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted July 3, 2017 Report Share Posted July 3, 2017 (edited) I use the Scantool OBDLink MX Bluetooth adapter (for my Android devices) in combination with the Forscan Lite for Android/iOS software. Ideally you would get an SCT X4 or similar tuning device to really dive into the PIDs, but the cost differential is substantial. About 85$ or less (with a different adapter) vs $300. So if you want to test the waters, start with a Veepeak/iCar/vGate adapter (typically in the 20$ range), add the Forscan Lite software. Buy Wifi for compatibility with both Android/iOS devices. I prefer Bluetooth with the OBDLink, and dedicate the device to monitoring, but you don't have to. If you are using Bluetooth with Sync etc, you will want to get a WiFi adapter instead. Start with simpler PIDs like RPM, Vehicle Speed, Coolant Temperature, Transmission Fluid Temperature, etc. just to get a feel for it. If the software shows you an option with OBD in the name, that is the generic OBD PID. Check to see if there is a Ford specific PID first, no OBD in the name of it. Edited July 3, 2017 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
always on edge Posted July 3, 2017 Report Share Posted July 3, 2017 I use the Scantool OBDLink MX Bluetooth adapter (for my Android devices) in combination with the Forscan Lite for Android/iOS software. I looked at the Scantool on Amazon and it gets horrible reviews. I like the idea but are there any options like it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted July 4, 2017 Report Share Posted July 4, 2017 You looked at the Bluetooth version? The Wifi one is indeed terrible. The Wifi ones I would use are Veepeak / vGate / iCar brands. They worked the best for me. There IS another one, BAFX, but it died on me and macbwt. So I can't recommend that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
always on edge Posted July 4, 2017 Report Share Posted July 4, 2017 You looked at the Bluetooth version? The Wifi one is indeed terrible. The Wifi ones I would use are Veepeak / vGate / iCar brands. They worked the best for me. There IS another one, BAFX, but it died on me and macbwt. So I can't recommend that one. Yes, I was mistakenly looking at the wi-fi version. The bluetooth version gets stellar reviews but is not iOS compatible. I think I'm going to get the Bluedriver scan tool which also gets phenomenal reviews but is compatible with iOS. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00652G4TS/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AD7D9D1JAFECP Thank you for getting me on track. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted July 4, 2017 Report Share Posted July 4, 2017 Let us know how the BlueDriver works out. I have been curious about this particular tool, and have asked a few people before to provide a review, but sadly, am still waiting 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Halstead Posted July 4, 2017 Report Share Posted July 4, 2017 (edited) You looked at the Bluetooth version? The Wifi one is indeed terrible. The Wifi ones I would use are Veepeak / vGate / iCar brands. They worked the best for me. There IS another one, BAFX, but it died on me and macbwt. So I can't recommend that one. I bought the wifi on accident, I have had zero issues, but I dont log with it and its really just my forscan access. So my chance for fault is a lot lower! Edited July 4, 2017 by Nick Halstead 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted July 4, 2017 Report Share Posted July 4, 2017 I bought the WiFi specifically for iOS use, would drop out like mad. Had it replaced once. Bought another new one a year later thinking surely it would have improved by now. Yeah, well, SMH SWH. Glad yours is working tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
always on edge Posted July 4, 2017 Report Share Posted July 4, 2017 So after we hijacked this thread I ended up ordering the strut tower brace after all. I'll post once it's installed. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Halstead Posted July 5, 2017 Report Share Posted July 5, 2017 I bought the WiFi specifically for iOS use, would drop out like mad. Had it replaced once. Bought another new one a year later thinking surely it would have improved by now. Yeah, well, SMH SWH. Glad yours is working tho I literally just use it for as built data in forscan tho. sCT X4 handles all logging 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xtra Posted July 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 So after we hijacked this thread I ended up ordering the strut tower brace after all. I'll post once it's installed. Did the parts come in yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
always on edge Posted July 17, 2017 Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 (edited) Did the parts come in yet? The strut tower brace arrived. It is damaged and of far less quality than yours. Not to mention it doesn't have the etching nor decals of yours. My expectations were higher but I should've expected this coming from China. Between the shipping here and return shipping to China, I'll be out about $100. Saddening. Lesson learned. Edited July 17, 2017 by always on edge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted July 17, 2017 Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 Ugh, maybe they sent you a factory reject, if there is such a thing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
always on edge Posted July 18, 2017 Report Share Posted July 18, 2017 Ugh, maybe they sent you a factory reject, if there is such a thing. The seller gave me a full refund of the purchase price + shipping so I'll only be out $65 which was the cheapest return shipping I could find through USPS. It indeed looked like a reject of some kind. Certainly not as flashy as Xtra's. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xtra Posted July 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2017 Not sure if I just got lucky and got a good one or what. That is messed up that yours was damaged and not stamped or etched. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xtra Posted July 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2017 (edited) The STB was such a success, I have decided to add the rear brace this week. Galpin Auto Sports is doing the install as custom longer bolts are needed. The install itself is a 10 min easy access job, but the stock bolts are too short. After installing the STB the steering became laser like and was less effort on turns to keep a line. Both front tires stuck to the road and the improvement was substantial. The problem now is the inside rear tire is unweighting in high-speed corners. It is my hope that this is the fix. After the install another alignment is necessary as the brace attaches to the rear suspension. I will let you know how it works after this weekends canyon run. Edited July 26, 2017 by Xtra 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xtra Posted July 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2017 (edited) Bummer, Galpin Auto Sports will not install the brace. I need a longer bolt and not just any bolt, that bolt is a Alignment Cam Bolt. The bolt has a cam on it to adjust the rear camber. Although they could custom make me a new bolt, GAS believes that the liability is too high. So it is a no go on the brace. If I can have one made myself at a machine shop, perhaps they would then do the install. Edited July 27, 2017 by Xtra Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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