chefduane Posted June 19, 2017 Report Share Posted June 19, 2017 So out of the blue this morning upon starting my '11 Ltd the "Check Charging System" warning comes on. As it was not convenient at the time to do any investigation, I continued on my trip. I later was able to check codes with my OBD reader and there are no codes that a flagged. Ironically, the A/C system has also quit cooling. In doing some research here I understand that the system will start shutting off various subsystems to conserve power, and I think (!) that is the reason for the A/C not cooling. Still blows fine just not cool. Also, there are no other issues currently with the car, Runs fine, just the charging system warning and no cool air. I am thinking battery and will go check voltages in minute but if anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears. She's no longer under warranty so I'd like to do as many diagnostics as I can before I determine it needs a dealer visit. Thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted June 19, 2017 Report Share Posted June 19, 2017 That usually means an alternator problem but if the battery is more than 2 years old I'd just replace it first anyway and go from there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omar302 Posted June 19, 2017 Report Share Posted June 19, 2017 What about the engine belt? Could be slipping? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefduane Posted June 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2017 The batt is a Napa so I am not sure how long its been in there. I just checked it; engine off it reads at about 11v, and engine on it reads at 11v. Not sure if that indicates a bad battery or problem with the charging system. Also, am I correct in my assumption that the A/C issue is also a symptom? I don't want to think that my battery and A/C crapped out on the same day. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefduane Posted June 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2017 Re: belt. No, I did a visual check when it was running and everything looked ok. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted June 19, 2017 Report Share Posted June 19, 2017 With the engine running it should be closer to 14V or slightly higher. Go ahead and replace the battery then get the alternator checked. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefduane Posted June 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2017 OK, Duracell AGM 65-860 is on order. Will pick it up tomorrow, install, and go from there. I hope that is the issue. If not, I'll at least have a nice AGM battery for a while. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted June 20, 2017 Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 Thankfully Ford engineers placed the alternator in an easy to reach location. LOL 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted June 20, 2017 Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 (edited) Texas heat will kill just about anything. Batteries, starters, paint, you name it. I think it should have still gotten up to 14+V during a drive, so very possibly an alternator issue as well Pick up a Solar BA7, you can test battery & alternator quickly & easily that way. EDIT: A basic primer on battery/alternator http://www.w8ji.com/battery_and_charging_system.htm Remember that the charging is adaptive on 2011+ MYs. So it will likely start out charging at 14.5V, then settle down to 13.8 or more as you keep driving. Edited June 20, 2017 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefduane Posted June 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 Well I dropped a new battery in it (Duracell BXT-65-860) AGM and it still indicates "Check Charging System" so its got to the be alternator. It's off to the dealer tomorrow to check it out. I've also been having some symptoms of the brake booster problem and I've got the paperwork on that so I might as well have them also check that out. Why do I feel a $1000.00 hit headed right for me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lildisco Posted June 20, 2017 Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 According to this video, you have to reset the charging system so that the pcm recognizes the new battery & adjusts the parameters accordingly: 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted June 21, 2017 Report Share Posted June 21, 2017 Correct, good ole Battery Management System. Once you have fully charged the battery with a charger, leave the car untouched for at least 8 hrs after you shut it off. That's one way to DIY the re-learn. Or get the dealer to reset it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefduane Posted June 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2017 I drove it a few miles home after swapping the battery and it will sit till tomorrow morning. Hopefully the BMS/PCM will be reset when I drive to the dealer in the morning. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 Funny thing is the battery saver was the only notice I received in my 2011 Edge. No charging system failure light at anytime. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefduane Posted June 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2017 (edited) Ok, so I dropped the car off at the dealer yesterday for a diagnosis and it did, in fact, turn out to be a bad alternator. I figured it was the alternator but unfortunately I simply do not have the time to do it myself. In a message left for me today the Service Rep stated that the serpentine belt also showed signs of wear and after 76k miles I can understand that. Total for alternator and new serpentine comes to $944. I also requested them to check out the non-functioning hazard switch and PRNDL indicator (yes, it IS supposed to light up.) This is where it gets interesting. The hazard light switch (per his 'service professional and technician's diagnostics') requires the complete dash center fascia to be replaced (including the Sync screen) for a cost of $779. The PRNDL light requires (per the techs assessment) a complete new shifter assembly and center console ("You can't just swap out a bulb, you have to have the complete assembly changed") for a cost of $1121. Then when the tech was under the hood he states he found "a power steering high pressure hose that's leaking." Now, I spend a goodly amount of time underneath my Edge as I do all fluid and filter changes, did a coolant flush and some months ago did a complete brake job with rotors. I am VERY cognizant of ANY fluids leaking anywhere and have not noticed ANY kind of fluid leaks at all. That 'repair' comes to $489. Now, of course his 'service professional's recommendation' based on mileage and year is for ALL fluid changes (coolant, oil, transaxle...) plus throttle and fuel injector service and other miscellaneous BS service. That comes to $352. So the total is a mind bending $3685 that I am just supposed to give the ok for and "they'll get right on it!!" AND, I have been having some of the faulty brake booster issues so I brought in the paperwork for the repair under the extended warranty CPS that was posted here (Thanks Guys!) In his phone message he did not even mention that. I hope that that means it will be covered by extended warranty at no charge. In a return phone message about an hour ago (it is now about 1am in Dallas, and I'm a Chef...I work late hours...) I made it VERY CLEAR that they are NOT authorized to complete ANY work until I get a definitive answer on the brake booster repair, and I emphasized that they will not be authorized to do ANY fluid services, flush/fills, throttle body/fuel injector service, etc. I have not as yet, but will most likely authorize the new alternator and serpentine work as I simply do not have the time to do them myself. (I am also about to have a new knee installed in a few days and most likely will not be in the mood to be doing any auto repairs!!) I have purchased cars from this dealership (5 Star Ford of Plano, TX) and felt I've gotten a good deal. I've had service done and never felt I've been ripped off. But this time I am astounded by the temerity of the Service Rep, the Technician, and the Service Department in general. After the alternator, serpentine, and brake booster repairs are completed, I will NEVER set foot in their service bay again. Comments and feedback welcomed. Edited June 23, 2017 by chefduane 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omar302 Posted June 23, 2017 Report Share Posted June 23, 2017 Unfortunately, many dealers & mechanics prey on uninformed & inexperienced customers. Makes a case for those to buy new cars with long warranties. For the Hazard button, check this thread: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22667-what-a-mistake-it-was-to-buy-an-edge/page-2?do=findComment&comment=171971 A new alternator is about $230 and both belts about $30. So this means they are charging ~ $680 for labor to change them, I think that's a little high. And definitely don't do the other things. http://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/2011/ford/edge/limited-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/maintenance-and-lubrication-cat/belts-and-pulleys-scat http://www.tascaparts.com/ford/edge/8g1z10346a/2011-year/limited-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/electrical-cat/alternator-scat/?part_name=alternator 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefduane Posted June 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2017 Omar, I think you are exactly correct in this case. I sure they saw me as a sucker and clueless as to how the car functions and operates and would readily go along with $3700 in so called 'needed' repairs. Yes, I also think that $680 in labor is extremely high for the alternator and belts. But as I said, I not in a position to do them myself at the moment and I consider it a convenience issue for me. I readily admit that it is simply convenient for me to have the dealer do the repairs. Expensive, but convenient. Having their repairs warranteed is also a cost consideration, but that still does not ameliorate a $944 hit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted June 23, 2017 Report Share Posted June 23, 2017 (edited) alternator, belts & booster definitely. rest you could probably do on your own, with skills you have already demonstrated here on the forum Repairpal estimates for shops to do the alternator range from 590 to 879 for your MY Edge so the dealership is a bit on the high end, but that is to be expected. Belts only the cost of the belts themselves should be tacked on, as removal/installation has to happen anyway. And remember they are likely not discounting the parts either. You may be able to haggle them down to the online price save some $$$ there. Edited June 23, 2017 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefduane Posted June 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2017 PerfA, thanks for the comments. I talked to the rep this morning and have authorized the alternator and belts. Also he did confirm that the brake booster will be taken care of under the extended warranty. He stated that the power steering hose was not really leaking that bad and there was only minor seepage from a high pressure connection but that when the service tech sees something like that they recommend the repair (job security, I guess). I do intend to take a look at the Hazard Switch and the PRNDL light myself. As I mentioned, I have some time off coming up. I did not know about Repairpal that you mentioned. Thanks! I will have to check them out. At any rate, I should have the car back probably tomorrow and all should be fine mechanically. The PRNDL light I can probably live without for a while but I do intend to address the Hazard light myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted June 23, 2017 Report Share Posted June 23, 2017 May want to keep a eye on the power steering fluid just in case. When these little stinkers start leaking they rarely stop on their own. Wonder if a can of Lucan power steering stop leak would do the trick for $10? (Worked for me on a car I once owned). Lucas 10008 Power Steering Stop Leak - 12 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPVNO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YZutzbFKQGGC5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted June 24, 2017 Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 Having changed the alternator myself I will say it is a PITA but it is not a 900 dollar PITA. Hope they included a new power steering belt in the process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefduane Posted June 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 I will check into the Lucas product once I get the car back and take a look at where this 'leak' is occurring. I'm a bit leery of additives and 'stop leak' products as they sometimes can gum up the works and cause more headaches than the original leak. Although I do know that Lucas products have a good rep and some folks swear by them. I'll see if I can locate some reviews to check out and calm my additive paranoia. Will be nice to get the car back and have everything functioning, especially the rock hard then spongy brake pedal. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted June 24, 2017 Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 These types of additives are generally bandaids. They may prolong the life of the system somewhat, but in the end the part replacement is almost always needed. Gives you time to plan, but you do need to plan. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefduane Posted June 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2017 I will get the Edge back on Monday and I intend to do a thorough investigation of the so-called 'high pressure hose leak.' I am really skeptical about that. As I mentioned I am pretty aware of what's going on as I have my head in the engine compartment fairly regularly. I have never seen or seen evidence of any PS fluid leak. But we'll see. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefduane Posted June 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 (edited) OK!!! FINALLY got the Edge back today. They did the alternator and serpentine, and a new brake booster that was completed under the 13N02 CSP Extended Warranty. There were also some misc materials charges, etc. The total came out to $944+$77.88tax=$1021.88. Very expensive, I know but as I mentioned previously I did not have the time to do it myself nor the time to wait for parts to come in. Everything is charging fine now and the brakes are excellent with consistent pressure on the pedal required to do a full stop. I did a quick test in a vacant parking lot and they are just peachy. Thanks for all the feedback and your patience during my rants! Edited June 27, 2017 by chefduane 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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