onyxbfly Posted April 27, 2021 Report Share Posted April 27, 2021 3 hours ago, Cerberus said: The fan kick in temp is really only relevant when high ambient temperature and/or low air speed collectively add up to reduce the heat removal capabilities of the radiator and intercooler. Regarding the intercooler, I have thought about installing a bank of nozzles to fog the charge cooler when full boogie is needed (like they did with the first stock GT3000 VR4 with nitrous fogging to get it over 200 mph) though I'd probably use washer fluid for cheap reasons But the truth is that I am not in need of more power than this thing makes on a good day, I just want to not lose power on hot days and maintain a long service life. Might have a used meth kit that was used on a edge sport available... drop me a line if you're interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerberus Posted April 27, 2021 Report Share Posted April 27, 2021 5 hours ago, onyxbfly said: Might have a used meth kit that was used on a edge sport available... drop me a line if you're interested. Incoming! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edge5280 Posted May 3, 2021 Report Share Posted May 3, 2021 On 4/28/2018 at 5:38 PM, Mikula said: Pull the housing back, remove the old tstat, and remove the o-ring gastket. It may still be attached to the t-stat, or it may be on the housing. put the new t-stat in place (again with the nipple facing upward, and the spring toward the motor). Then place the o-ring onto the thermostat, making sure it seats in there, then put the housing in place. Your description is stating the O-ring goes between the housing and T-stat not like the other pictures through out the post where it is between T-stat and water pump. Correct? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clegg78 Posted August 23, 2021 Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 Just did this install yesterday on my 2017 Sport. My chubby hands were hard pressed to make it under the motor mount (I removed the expansion tank as I was draining the system anyway and left the moto mount in place). Its doable, but was minorly frustrating. Only dropped a socket once! and a magnet wand was handy to retrieve the screws and washers out of the housing. In the end the Termostat took ~ 1hr which isn't bad given I've never worked on that part of the engine before. Only struggle is that my 1/4" drive sockets weren't deep enough to reach and get around the housing, and my 3/8" ratchets are big so I didn't get a lot of throw in removing the lower bolt. I did relocate the grounding wire out of the way forward of the engine that gives more room for the ratchet. I put in the Motorad 655-160 (160F) thermostat - same one that LMS sells for $60, you can get on amazon for $20, and new washer. The install went well I think, and flushed the system with the newer Motorcraft yellow coolant. I'm ordering a LMS programmer and tune in the coming days and wanted to be ready. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rival Posted January 19, 2022 Report Share Posted January 19, 2022 I hope this thread is the best place to post my question I recently purchased the Reische thermostat 170 and plan on draining and flushing the coolant. I also plan on eventually getting the LMS tune but the question is..can I install the thermostat and then tune my edge (‘15 2.7) later on? I.e. install the thermostat and replace coolant then couple months later purchase the tune and install the tune. Any one know if this would cause any immediate issues? Or am I better off just getting everything together and installing everything all at once? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xtra Posted January 19, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2022 Yes you can install the thermostat first then get the tune. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerberus Posted May 21, 2022 Report Share Posted May 21, 2022 so I did the thermostat swap last weekend, with Resiche(?) 170° unit I relocated the coolant header tank and air intake hose between the up-pipe and throttle body, and reached around the mount from both sides. 1/4" drive short sockets, magnetic screw starters for reinstalling the bolts, pretty quick and easy even with my big hands coolant temp now hangs between 177 and 185 (city/rural driving, used to go over 200) and head temp briefly goes as high as 210 (used to hit 230) with mid 80s to 90F ambient temp I have made no changes to fan set points, but I may explore that when the ambient temps get into the mid 90s consistently At highway speeds when aerodynamic cooling comes into full play, coolant temp holds 177-181 and head temp is 190-194ish I reset my adaptations and saw all per cylinder knock counters go to zero, and have, so far, stayed there 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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