Mirage52 Posted June 8, 2017 Report Share Posted June 8, 2017 Hi. 2012 SEL FWD. 51K. I had a pulsating brake pedal earlier this year and set out to replace all pads and rotors in January of this year. However I couldn't remove the rotors (I now know the fronts are corroded on the hub and the rears have a screw which I have an impact driver for) so I just replaced the front and rear pads. This didn't fix the problem. My question is, when I replace the rotors this weekend, should I put on new pads? Or will the ones that are on there now, around 5 months old, still be OK? Like I said, the brake pedal is pulsating...I know the pads could have worn unevenly, and they're not that expensive to replace but I was wondering if anyone has any ideas on whether or not they would still be OK...it's only been 5 months and about 5K miles, if that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefduane Posted June 8, 2017 Report Share Posted June 8, 2017 They probably would be ok but as you said, they are relatively cheap even for premium ones. As long as you are doing the rotors, do the pads. That ways you'll know you are starting our completely new from the get-go. However, search on 'brake booster problem' in the group and you will hear about a booster issue that is a known problem with some Edges. It could be the reason for a pedal pulsation. (I think I am developing the booster problem actually.) Good Luck! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted June 8, 2017 Report Share Posted June 8, 2017 (edited) Pulsating brakes can be caused by several items. One of the most common is a wheel that was put on and the lugs were not torqued; or torqued in the proper order (IE 1-3-5-4-2 instead of 1-2-3-4-5). This results in an uneven force being applied to the rotor (taking it out of flat). This following webpage will explain this and add additional concerns. http://www.supremeautonaples.com/index.php?page=newsjuly2011 Edited June 8, 2017 by enigma-2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mirage52 Posted June 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2017 Just did the quick check of the brake booster -- pressed the brake pedal, turned off the engine and held for 30 seconds. The brake pedal instantly came back up. Does this mean the booster is bad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted June 9, 2017 Report Share Posted June 9, 2017 What pads do you have on there now, Mirage? They should be ok to transfer to the new rotors, assuming they have been worn in evenly and are defect-free. Just would need to re-bed them to the new rotors for best braking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mirage52 Posted June 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2017 Took it to the shop just in case it was something besides the rotors. I didn't want to put money into the car where it wasn't needed. They said the rotors were warped so I will replace them this week. Brake pedal was a little soft, and didn't give much pushback when pressed hard, so I was starting to think it could have been bad booster, but apparently not. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted June 12, 2017 Report Share Posted June 12, 2017 Let us know how it pans out. Hoping for a happy ending! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IWRBB Posted June 12, 2017 Report Share Posted June 12, 2017 (edited) Rotors probably aren't "warped". It's way more likely there are uneven layers of pad material on the rotors. You could try to remove it and re-bed the pads, but you'll never get it off. I'd put new rotors on and re-use the pads assuming there are no deep grooves in the old rotors. Make damn sure they clean that hub extremely well. If you couldn't get the rotor off, there's all kinds of rust back there. For your brakes to be smooth, the new rotor needs to sit against a clean flat hub, not a rough, rusted surface. It's damn tough to clean due to the studs. I use a razor blade and WD40 and scrape it as flat as possible. Every time I do brakes, I wish US made cars had wheel bolts instead of lugs- it'd be 100x easier to clean up the hub face. Lugs sure make it a lot easier to put the wheel and tire on though. Edited June 12, 2017 by IWRBB 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IWRBB Posted June 12, 2017 Report Share Posted June 12, 2017 Pulsating brakes can be caused by several items. One of the most common is a wheel that was put on and the lugs were not torqued; or torqued in the proper order (IE 1-3-5-4-2 instead of 1-2-3-4-5). This results in an uneven force being applied to the rotor (taking it out of flat). This following webpage will explain this and add additional concerns. http://www.supremeautonaples.com/index.php?page=newsjuly2011 That's pretty much a thing of the past IMO. Studs used to be pressed into the rotor and over-torquing was definitely an issue back then. Nowadays, the studs are pressed into the unit bearing/hub. The rotor just slides over the lugs and gets sandwiched between the hub face and back of the wheel. I just can't see how over-tightening would do anything but sandwich all that metal together even tighter. You'd really have to get *really* crazy with it to deform the hub itself, which would then deform the rotor hat. I think the studs would break or strip before that would happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted June 13, 2017 Report Share Posted June 13, 2017 Ive also read where a forced panic stop can also overheat the pads and cause unever friction transfer. According to the web page i referenced, bearings, wared hubs, stiff CV joints can all lead to pulsation. (I don't believe that the rotors actually warp, rather they have thicker and thinner spots due to uneven friction). FWIW, I still believe that improper torque, even in modern brakes, can lead to uneven heating of the rotor. Fix is simple enough, have the rotors turned or replaced. Just had new pads put on the front, told them to change the rotors as well. They went 100k. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mirage52 Posted June 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 Just replaced front pads and rotors. Took it for a spin and the pulsating was gone. Going to do rears next time I have a chance. Hoping those screws don't give me a fight, I've got an impact driver to get them out. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted June 14, 2017 Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 Just replaced front pads and rotors. Took it for a spin and the pulsating was gone. Going to do rears next time I have a chance. Hoping those screws don't give me a fight, I've got an impact driver to get them out. OIl up the impact driver. You will needed it if you have any salt on the roads. Also make sure you have the special tool for the rear piston to screw it in and compress it at the same time. Betting you see the inside pads on the rear are worn much more and maybe at an angle. Clean ALL rust off of the bracket and buy extra break (for Akirby LOL) Brake grease I use the CRC ceramic brake grease and am rather liberal with it. Seems to hold up well and last with water and environmental conditions. Always take your brakes apart every fall and re-clean and lube them up they will last longer and wear more evenly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted June 14, 2017 Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 Give me a brake..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mirage52 Posted June 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 I've done the rear pads before...5 months ago. LOL. That's when I couldn't get the rotors off and just changed the pads. It was a $60 lesson learned. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IWRBB Posted June 14, 2017 Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 (edited) I'd recommend an "impact screwdriver" for those bolts. They look like this. http://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3-8-in-Drive-Impact-Screwdriver-Set-7-Piece-2905/205674679 You hit it with a hammer, and that hammer strike does two things- it drives the bit tight into the bolt to prevent stripping it, and it also slightly turns it counterclockwise to loosen it. Once it's loose, you can take it out with any type of driver after that. Edited June 14, 2017 by IWRBB 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IWRBB Posted July 7, 2017 Report Share Posted July 7, 2017 There's just something about the CD3 chassis I guess. We've been looking at buying a used Fusion, so I was checking out the Fusion forums and see both of you guys in there posting too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted July 7, 2017 Report Share Posted July 7, 2017 I've owned 2 Fusions - traded the 2006 on a 2013 Titanium that I'm still driving. We had a 2008 Edge then went to a 2014 Escape briefly before going to a 2016 MKX (gave daughter the Escape - it was just too small for us). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefduane Posted July 7, 2017 Report Share Posted July 7, 2017 I did not have an impact screwdriver when I did my brakes in Feb. Since I was putting on new rotors with the pads, I just drilled the screws out. They really don't serve any purpose so I did not see any reason to preserve them. I think someone mentioned they were used in the manufacturing or factory assembly process. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IWRBB Posted July 8, 2017 Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 I've owned 2 Fusions - traded the 2006 on a 2013 Titanium that I'm still driving. We had a 2008 Edge then went to a 2014 Escape briefly before going to a 2016 MKX (gave daughter the Escape - it was just too small for us). Just bought a 2010 today. Nice clean silver SEL. Hard to find a good used car- they are all beat to hell. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IWRBB Posted July 8, 2017 Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 I did not have an impact screwdriver when I did my brakes in Feb. Since I was putting on new rotors with the pads, I just drilled the screws out. They really don't serve any purpose so I did not see any reason to preserve them. I think someone mentioned they were used in the manufacturing or factory assembly process. They are there so the rotors don't fall off before the calipers go on as it goes down the line. Some Fords get a springy washer/star type washer that goes over the lug instead. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted July 8, 2017 Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 Congrats! Where are the pics of this clean beauty? Just bought a 2010 today. Nice clean silver SEL. Hard to find a good used car- they are all beat to hell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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