AC Suddenly Stopped Blowing Cold Air

[tamugrad2013]

Today coming home from the grocery store I had the AC on set to 68 and all was working well. As I was going about 40 mph the revs dropped from about ~1200 rpms to ~900 rpms for literally less then a second and back to normal, and it quit blowing cold air. It took it a few moments and then just warm air started coming out of the vents. I did not hear any squeal when it stopped working and I inspected the serpentine belt and it seems to be in good shape.

 

My best guess is the compressor failed and that dip in rpms was brief seize up before it just started spinning on the compressor with no power (Freewheeling) going to it.

 

I have an appointment at the dealership on Thursday and will post updates when I find out anything. Please advise if you have had similar issues or thoughts.

 

It is a little ironic that this fails just hours after paid her off this morning.

Edited May 6, 2017 by tamugrad2013

[tamugrad2013]

Other note of interest when i turn on the ac the compressor clutch does engage and the compressor does turn, but still all hot air to the dealership I go.

[enigma-2]

It is a little ironic that this fails just hours after paid her off this morning.

Ironic nothing; they know! She's been sitting in the garage, thinking about this over the last few years, waiting, quietly biding her time, for "that" day, the day when she's finally paid off. And then boom!

 

The other golden day is the day after the warranty runs out. My 09 has already told me through Sync that she's going to belch black goo all over the driveway and dump the coolant in the oil sump the day after the warranty runs out this August. (I wonder, can one extend the extended warranty?)

Edited May 7, 2017 by enigma-2

[enigma-2]

Btw, did you check the fuses? Failure may have blown a fuse to protect the compressor.

[tamugrad2013]

I do not have a fuse checker or a multimeter. I always just used my fathers if I need one and I will not be back home until mid June. I looked at the diagram in the owners manual and got a little perplexed. I assume the compressor clutch fuse, and the compressor fuse are because they are turning. The cooling fan also kicks on. I am not sure about any other fuses that may be involved. If I turn AC off and drive with just the blower on the air is just temperate as it could be when it is 91 degrees out side. I guess I am just going to have to get it looked at. I will say premium care has paid for it self already.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Compressor failure isn't common at all, even in the heat of TX, at least from what has been reported on forums, so this is puzzling. I would more likely blame an electronic component like the climate control module or a failed sensor/switch. All guesswork tho.

 

Did you restart the engine after it had time to sit and cool down? Did the A/C come back on then?

[tamugrad2013]

I did restart the engine this morning at about 8:15 am after it sat all night. When I turned the AC on there was a hesitation and a slight squeak then just hot air again. I do not think it is the blend door actuator because both sides blow hot in the dual climate control, but the rear seat ac vents blow a little cold but I think it is still to cool outside to get a good feel. I will wait till later today to test all the vents temperature when it gets to the 90's. I also can hear the blend doors open and close when I turn the ac on and off.

[tamugrad2013]

Ok so it being 80 degrees out I tested all the vents with the setting on the lowest temperature and every single vent front, rear, passenger, and driver blow warm air.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Ok so compressor, refrigerant level, and CCM are on the list. If you can pull codes in the meantime, that could help make sense. I think you can run a test routine on the CCM directly but don't have the FSM in front of me ATM.

[autom8r]

What is the temperature of the engine coolant as you're experiencing the compressor failure (lock out)? WWWPerfA_ZN0W you know where I'm going with this!

[tamugrad2013]

The temperature gauge reads spot on in the middle where it always reads and the engine does smell hot at all.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

that gauge is an "idiot" gauge. You would need to read direct from the obd port to get relevant data,

Edited May 9, 2017 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W

[tamugrad2013]

I should clarify it does not ever smell hot. I wrote the previous content when I was very tired.

 

I do have a question on why the gauge would be an "idiot" gauge. I mean I feel like it gives a pretty accurate representation but I do not own anything that reads from the OBD-II Port

Edited May 9, 2017 by tamugrad2013

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

It is an "idiot" gauge because it tells you basic states of the coolant temperature. It does not accurately depict the operating temperature of the coolant, especially once warmed up. Once you hook up Forscan Pro & an OBD II adapter, you can see the temps blowbyblow, since you will have actual numbers to look at.

[autom8r]

Check your radiator fan assembly and fan control module. The PCM has a protective feature that locks out the A/C compressor if the engine begins to overheat. It's a common thread on this forum. Start with this post http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/21218-cooling-fan-system-troubleshooting-help/?hl=%2Bradiator+%2Bfans&do=findComment&comment=158313

 

Good luck.

[tamugrad2013]

Check your radiator fan assembly and fan control module. The PCM has a protective feature that locks out the A/C compressor if the engine begins to overheat. It's a common thread on this forum. Start with this post http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/21218-cooling-fan-system-troubleshooting-help/?hl=%2Bradiator+%2Bfans&do=findComment&comment=158313

 

Good luck.

 

I can check into that, but would it still blow hot even if it has been sitting all day and started only at 6:00 pm and still instantly blows hot with the ac on.

[autom8r]

Tamugrad2013

 

I assume that you've already looked at your fuses, etc. as mentioned by others on this post. Please check the DTCs also and post them here. We are working with an incomplete set of data. The more info you can post the more accurate our diagnosis and cure can be. DTC codes P0480, P0481, and maybe P0482 indicate fan control module failure.

 

The belt turning the clutch on a compressor may look as if it's spinning. The part that need to spin is in the center of the pulley when the pulley is energized. It is difficult to observe, due to the location of the compressor in the engine bay. Resist the urge to stick your hands in there. The ensuing manicure may not be to your liking.

 

To answer your question:

 

The A/C may blow cold when you first start the engine but as the coolant rises in temperature with the engine, the coolant temperature will eventually overshoot the allowable operating (cylinder head) temperature of the engine (about 210 F). Normally, the PCM will start and modulate or cycle a radiator cooling fan (for the tow package equipped, both for non-tow package equipped) to bring down the temperature of the coolant,. If the PCM sees that no change or a rise in engine coolant temperature persists, the PCM will lock out the A/C compressor (clutch de-energized) from operating, but leave the A/C condenser fan on (1 or both of the radiator fans). Your A/C condenser is installed in front of your radiator. If the PCM cannot control the fan speed on the primary fan at all, then it will prevent you from turning on the A/C and you'll be alerted to a problem by receiving warm, un-refrigerated air. The A/C compressor is intentionally locked out with the fans operating in an effort to prevent the engine from overheating and destroying your wallet.

 

If equipped with a tow-package, The fans operate independently and modulate speed from 0-100%. If malfunctioning, sometimes the operative fan will lock on at 100% speed (annoying), indicating the PCM's inability to control the fan speed, this is an intentional tattle-tale. The other fan is usually unresponsive of the fan module is DOA.

 

Abbreviated testing:

 

With the tow package, start the engine with the A/C disengaged. Open the hood and look at the two fans. When the engine is cold, neither fan will be running. Cycle your A/C on and off, notice which fan follows the A/C request, Your compressor clutch will also lock up. Turn your A/C off and allow your engine to warm up. A radiator fan will eventually start. If it is the same fan as your A/C fan, then your primary fan may have failed. Start the A/C, your compressor may run for a short while and then disengage. If the other fan never starts or cycles, it's time for a new fan assembly (or a fan control module).

 

Without the tow package, start the engine with the A/C disengaged. Open the hood and look at the two fans. When the engine is cold, neither fan will be running. Cycle your A/C on and off, both fans should start simultaneously on the A/C request. Your compressor clutch will also lock up. Turn your A/C off and allow your engine to warm up. Both radiator fans will eventually start. If one fan comes on when the engine is cold (without an A/C request) or either fan does not start and cycle after reaching operating temperature or if one stays on indefinitely, it's time for a new fan assembly (or a fan control module).

 

Test the clutch on the compressor. Unplug the compressor from the wire loom and test the clutch directly. Violet with White stripe is +, black -. It should lock when power is applied and unlock when power is removed. If the clutch isn't working, ignore this post. You have a different problem.

It is critical that you identify if your EDGE is equipped with a tow package. The fan control modules vary, be careful when ordering your replacement.

 

Note: I have nearly 200k miles on my EDGE, I use the A/C daily. I've never had an issue with the A/C. A clutch or compressor failure usually happens after some knuclehead adds or bleeds off refrigerant. If you can avoid it, don't open the system.

 

Good luck.

[tamugrad2013]

Well just to give an update the Edge went to the dealer today since it is still under premium care extended warranty. Already diagnosed and the compressor is shot. They have ordered one and it will be in tomorrow morning. They also checked the transmission out due to things that I have mentioned earlier and they determined a turbine speed sensor is bad and some solenoid is bad which will not be in until Monday.

 

I will say I was given a a 2017 Ford Escape for loaner and it is pretty nice. I do hate the auto stop/start feature thankfully it can be defeated.

Edited May 11, 2017 by tamugrad2013

[autom8r]

Glad it worked out. Happy trails.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Have them replace both the turbine and output speed sensors, they work in tandem, so never a good idea to replace just the one. May have to pay for the part/a little added labor, but worth the peace of mind. IMHO.

[macbwt]

Well that is a new one. A TSS sensor failure on a 2012 Edge. Also an AC compressor failure.

 

Well just to give an update the Edge went to the dealer today since it is still under premium care extended warranty. Already diagnosed and the compressor is shot. They have ordered one and it will be in tomorrow morning. They also checked the transmission out due to things that I have mentioned earlier and they determined a turbine speed sensor is bad and some solenoid is bad which will not be in until Monday.

 

I will say I was given a a 2017 Ford Escape for loaner and it is pretty nice. I do hate the auto stop/start feature thankfully it can be defeated.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Have seen TSS/OSS issues on the Ecoboosts occasionally.

[tamugrad2013]

I am going to throw this out there on the transmission. I know these have had a few issues on the ecoboosts and I wonder if it has anything to do with the higher torque number. I mean I know the difference is 253 for the 3.5 L to 270 in the 2.0 L ecoboost. Do you think 17 lb ft. could make a difference is transmission hardiness. I am guessing no, but you never know.

[omar302]

The 2.0 EcoBoost uses a different transmission compared to the 3.5/3.7L. I think it was 6F35 Vs. 6F50. So transmission issues are really different between them.

[tamugrad2013]

I apologize for this thread going in many different directions, but to add more mystery to the discussion the dealer called with an update today. They said that all the parts came in and the technician was able to work on them today and get all parts installed. When they went for a test drive to make sure all was working well the car had no power and was basically barely getting up to speed. They checked for codes and two codes lead to the diagnosis being turbo failure. So now another parts order was put in today and the turbo should be in by Tuesday, again thankfully under the premium care warranty. It is a little scary that the turbo failed after only 80,000 miles. I would appreciate any thoughts on the subject.