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Sync 3 Installed in a 2012 Limited


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3 hours ago, candurin said:

I see you also posted on 2gfusions.  I’ll gladly help out in this thread.  Dan and a few select folks over there charge $95 for full programming, in lieu of offering assistance.  It’s easy enough to do yourself. 

 

Thank you.

 

Yes, I did, and someone pointed me to this thread.. somehow I overlooked all the code on page 2.

 

I am looking forward to having SYNC3 with Waze integration for an 8hr road trip coming up in a few months.

 

I should have all my parts in for the Edge  sometime next week, but I got my feet wet with Forscan by changing the splash screen on my Fiesta ST to the "ST Ford Performance" splash. 

 

Like I said over there, I'm not above paying for assistance, but it's way more fun to figure this kind of stuff out yourself. Not to mention, I may one day do my wife's Fusion, and possibly help my brother-in-law with his '15 Fiesta ST that is Sync2

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I got it installed and working... man, oh man is the sync3 ever a speed improvement over sync2.

 

My as-built turned out similar to yours but there were some key differences.. my new apim doesnt have nav, my car is fwd, and couple of other things that I can't remember..

 

Only weird thing is that the buttons are set to the alternative theme so that when they are highlighted they are red, blue, brown ect. even though I didn't set that value.

 

I can't decide if I like that better than the stock blue buttons or not, but it's bugging me that nothing that I change seems to set it back to the default timeless theme.

 

I'm going to pour over my as-built worksheet tonight and see if I missed something.

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If you used my program, I have it set to the multi colored theme.  It was on page 3 of this thread.

 

The values in 7D0-03-01 is what effects the theme layout.  Change it as follows:

 

7D0-03-01: xxxx 00xx xxxx - Ford Classic
7D0-03-01: xxxx 01xx xxxx - Ford Timeless

Edited by candurin
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18 hours ago, candurin said:

If you used my program, I have it set to the multi colored theme.  It was on page 3 of this thread.

 

The values in 7D0-03-01 is what effects the theme layout.  Change it as follows:

 

7D0-03-01: xxxx 00xx xxxx - Ford Classic
7D0-03-01: xxxx 01xx xxxx - Ford Timeless

 

That was it.. somehow I had xxx 31xx xxxx in that field.. I think the 3 was a hold-over from my original as-built..

This also solved my apim DTC for incompatible value.

 

This is my final as-built for my 2013 Edge SEL, FWD, with heated seats.. no ambient lighting controls:

 

7D0-01-01, 2221, 0002, 213F
7D0-01-02, 0089, 0000, 0265
7D0-02-01, 5553, 0004, 0086
7D0-02-02, 0200, 0000, 00DD
7D0-02-03, 0000, DC,
7D0-03-01, 0000, 0100, 00DC
7D0-04-01, 0103, 0200, 09EB
7D0-04-02, 0001, DE,
7D0-05-01, 1BA3, 1B9B, 2B7C
7D0-05-02, C5A3,
7D0-06-01, 00DE
7D0-07-01, 0800, 3300, 001A
7D0-07-02, 0000, 186A, 0062
7D0-07-03, 0056, 5685, 0113
7D0-07-04, 7052
7D0-08-01, 0000, 0000, 00E0
7D0-08-02, 0000, 0000, 00E1

 

(copied and pasted from as-built explorer, so hopefully I didn't mess it up in the process)

 

Many thanks!!!

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Does anyone have some part numbers for the APIM module?  I would like to upgrade my wife's 2015 Edge Titanium to Sync 3 with Nav, but when I contact salvage places, they want the part number off the module.  I found the following google doc list and have been through quite a few Ford parts websites.  I am pretty sure the middle digits are 14G371, but I do not know what the first digits and last digits need to be.  Any help would be appreciated.

 

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1sPYdxO3XHZ1Uz1LngcQpIj4Xu-vDu1yzZyr_B1ueGwM/edit#gid=0

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Any of the part numbers in that Google Doc work... Any APIM running SYNC 3 will work, in fact. Just pay attention to if they have Navigation or not (if you care about that).

 

If you get a screen too, that is when you pay attention to the vehicle it came from.

 

We can use (without modification) a screen from:

Edge (2016+)

Explorer (2016+)
F-250 (2017+)
F-350 (2017+)
Flex (2016+)
Taurus (2016+)

 

Also, FYI eBay might be easier than dealing with salvage yards over the phone.

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41 minutes ago, DaMiFo said:

Any of the part numbers in that Google Doc work... Any APIM running SYNC 3 will work, in fact. Just pay attention to if they have Navigation or not (if you care about that).

 

If you get a screen too, that is when you pay attention to the vehicle it came from.

 

We can use (without modification) a screen from:

Edge (2016+)

Explorer (2016+)
F-250 (2017+)
F-350 (2017+)
Flex (2016+)
Taurus (2016+)

 

Also, FYI eBay might be easier than dealing with salvage yards over the phone.

 

Thanks.  That was what I figured.  After spending a great deal of time doing more research I found that I will probably have to go the eBay route.  I was trying to get it from LKQ because they quoted me $200.  But when you look at all the units they sell, they have the Sync2 part numbers listed.  Their cross reference is wrong so when you search for 2016-2019 radio/nav, it gives 2014 part numbers.  So I guess I am stuck paying $500 for a non-nav unit on eBay.

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Keep looking on ebay. I got my screen and apim for $400 on ebay from lkq by searching. I didn't know if it had nav or not until I got it and powered it up.

 

If the VIN for the donor vehicle is listed, you can get the original as-built from Ford, then look at it to see if the Navigation bits are enabled.

 

Some 2016's got sync3, so just pay attention to the pictures. You will want a screen from an f-series, edge, explorer or Taurus.

 

Try a search like like: Ford 8 screen -10 -11 -12 -13 -14 -15 -2010 -2011 -2012 -2013 -2014 -2015

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Has anyone used a flush screen instead of a recessed screen?  It looks like the mounting brackets mount to the op and bottom of the screen, not the sides.  And it also looks like one could just trim 1/8 inch of plastic off each side of the mounting location to get the flush screen to mount up.  If it even needs trimmed.

 

IMG-0190.thumb.JPG.4fa826136c474aa06159c698857129da.JPG

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Finished the Sync3 update to my wifes 2015 Titanium tonight.  I used a flush mount screen out of an escape.  All i had to do was drill and tap holes in the new housing for the mounting brackets and everything fit perfectly.  Didn't have to trim the dash at all.

 

IMG-0255.thumb.JPG.a1a9ca684e118ab9da9a35e7b5f1debf.JPGIMG-0256.thumb.JPG.939c6d921bdde423de1006321f53c4d6.JPG

 

 

Edited by HEAD
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Hey everyone - thanks for all this info. Great thread.

I'm doing the same in my daughter's 2014 Edge Limited. I bought the APIM and screen already. Here are the part #s I got.

GB5T-18B955-SC
JB5T-14G370-ACD


The auction stated that these were from a 2018 Ford Explorer. However, it did not state if it had navigation or not. I really don't care if it does or not, which leads me to my question. If this unit has navigation and I don't bother to connect an antenna, will it affect the unit's functionality other than the navigation?

Also, if I pay someone to do the programming (ie, Dan, as someone here recommended), would I still need to get the scanner to actually install the build file?

 

PS. I couldn't help but laugh at the irony of me doing this project. Here I am adding Sync 3 to my daughter's 5 year old car just to give her Apple CarPlay, yet my wife's car is a Tesla which has the most advanced features of any car I've ever seen - in particular, Autopilot. Yet, guess what her biggest complaint about the Tesla is - "The only thing I miss from my Edge is the Sync 3" (she had a 2017 Edge Titanium for a few months until, like an idiot, I talked her into test driving a Tesla). In fact, Tesla doesn't even offer Apple CarPlay. Go figure.


@candurin
@Gortty-Pilot

@jmr061

@toast1850

@DaMiFo

Edited by Buddyroe
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Those part numbers are not telling me anything.  Do you have the link to the auction?

 

You will also need to replace the USB hub to have Apple CarPlay enabled.  Truthfully, that will negate the need for built-in navigation anyway.

 

You also need the GPS antenna whether or not you have Navigation.  This for the compass function.

 

Lastly, if you use Dan’s, jmr61’s or do it yourself, you will need the OBD adapter to upload the program to your APIM.

 

Hope that helps.

 

I can appreciate what you’re doing.  I added Sync 3 to a 7 year old car!

Edited by candurin
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17 minutes ago, candurin said:

Thank you very much @candurin

Here's the ebay auction link for the Screen and APIM:
Ebay Auction for Screen and APIM

 

This is the USB hub I bought.
USB Hub


I also bought the adapter to connect the USB hub to the old connector as well as the hub plate from 4dtech.com.


I'm thinking of buying this OBD adapter since the guy is close to me and can get it to me by this weekend. Thoughts?
OBDlink MX

 

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Thanks again. I just ordered the adapter from Amazon. Gotta love Prime - it will be here tomorrow. Now if all the parts will get here before the weekend, I can try to get this project done.

As far as the APIM being nav or not, I really couldn't care either way. In fact, if it were non-nav, that would be fine since it's less I have to worry about programming.

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Well, I got it installed. It is indeed a NAV unit, but I didn't buy an antenna so I disabled it with the code you provided on page 2. If I see a need for factory NAV, I can always add the antenna later and enable it. Disabling it took all the NAV references from the 8" screen, but the window to the right of the speedometer still has the option to display navigation. I'm sure that's a code also, but I'm not all that worried about it.

The cool thing was, when I put in your values from page 2, and restarted it, the splash screen at the beginning was for a Raptor - but my daughter happened to be standing there at the time and went nuts. She LOVED it!! She asked me to please leave it. So that was cool.

I have a few things to work out, but I'm pretty close. I wanted to say thank you to everyone who contributed to this thread and in particular @candurin.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

You could go aftermarket, but, you may run into firmware and APIM compatibility issues (I.e. guidelines and parking aid guidance indicators).  You may also suffer the upside down image issue.

 

Im not sure if the wire harness for the OEM camera is actually in the lift gate.  If so, you would have to buy the pigtail in addition to the camera.

 

I imagine there are ways to go aftermarket, however, those solutions involve a “lockpick” device type integration.

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