2011edgese Posted April 14, 2017 Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 Whats the chargng voltage on idle if you put a meter on the battery whrn running? And whats it at reving it up to 2500rpm? Im geting 12.7v with no engine runni g. And 13.8 when running. Is 13.8 low? Or is this one of those low volts charging systems? Im asking since i drained my 2 year battery and got a jump. Now it drains real fast if i sit in the car while charhing my phone and liatening to music while the engine is off. Wondering if i need a new battery or if the batter needs a 48hour trickle charge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted April 14, 2017 Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 Great voltage with engine off. Low end of voltage at 2500 rpm, should not be > than 14.5V. More importantly, have you checked the CCAs? Does your Edge sit for any significantly long periods of time? Phones nowadays can be pulling 2A or more from the battery. And of course the radio will drain a good amount of power as well. The "battery minder" feature may be nothing more than a timer, so I would not depend on that to save the battery. Also, any time a battery drains to the point you have to jumpstart, you need to let the PCM relearn the battery in 2011+ Edge vehicles. Easiest way? Let the vehicle sit undisturbed after a full charge for 8 hours. General SpecificationsItem Specification Generator — 3.5L Generator pulley ratio 2.66:1 Rating 70 amps @ 600 rpm (min) to 155 amps @ 2,500 rpm (max) Voltage regulator type Electronic internal with generator Generator — 3.7L Generator pulley ratio 2.66:1 Rating 89 amps @ 600 rpm (min) to 178 amps @ 2,500 rpm (max) Voltage regulator type Electronic internal with generator If the battery is deeply discharged, it should be charged with an intelligent pulse charger at no more than a 10A rate. Might take a few hours to complete. Will ramp up to 90% pretty quickly then really start slowing from there. Check the current draw on the battery 40 minutes after you turn the engine and all accessories off. Should be 0.05A or less on a totally stock vehicle. If you don't have a group 65 battery installed, I would suggest getting one. Gel Cell or AGM preferably. They can withstand deep discharge much better than regular SLA batteries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2011edgese Posted April 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 Good info but lost! Ive been out the auto field for a while. I AM USED to just putting a volt meter and making sure its within a certain voltage. Atm, max voltage I am reading is 13.7 to 13.8v with the car running or accelarated to 2500 to 3000 rpm. Kill the engine, drops to 12.7 to 12.5v. Turn the lights on while its not running and it drops to 12.4-12.3v. Once the light get turned off, creeps up to 12.6v. I have ran it to work and back, total 3 hours daily. Buy now? It just seems like its barely has juice but just enough to start the car good. If i plug in my laptop while the engine is off, in exaxtly 5 minutes.... it will NOT crank but " click click click" [dead battery]. So i am wondering is the pcm isnt making the alternator push out more voltage to charge it up to 14.7v or so. Any idea of 13.7v is normal? Old days, 14 7 was ideal but I am aware of the new systems being lower and more controlled by the pcm for optimal charging abilities. Battery is a Interstate Extreme 2 yrs old. Havent done a cca test? Dont have the tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2011edgese Posted April 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 (edited) Also... car doesnt sit for long periods. Daily driver. I had this problem 2 years ago, it why I changed the battery. The battery got drained and had it jumped. After the jump... it gave me this exaxt same issue. Changed the battery and its been good until i accidentaly drained it with my laptop. Edited April 14, 2017 by 2011edgese Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted April 14, 2017 Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 I had the same issue check it with a Solar BA7. The alternator is charging enough to keep the battery juiced but under load running all the other systems the alternator can not keep up but barely does so it is real hard to tell. My SolarBA7 showed an occasional red light under load and indicated the alternator was bad. I had to watch it a bit to catch it. I replaced the alternator and have not had the problem since. Spend the money on the OEM alternator. This is one job you do not want to do twice. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted April 14, 2017 Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted April 14, 2017 Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 Also remember that the alternator doesn't always put out a constant voltage - the PCM varies it as needed. Get a solar tester and test the CCAs. You can't go by voltage any more. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2011edgese Posted April 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 I had the same issue check it with a Solar BA7. The alternator is charging enough to keep the battery juiced but under load running all the other systems the alternator can not keep up but barely does so it is real hard to tell. My SolarBA7 showed an occasional red light under load and indicated the alternator was bad. I had to watch it a bit to catch it. I replaced the alternator and have not had the problem since. Spend the money on the OEM alternator. This is one job you do not want to do twice. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_CjQH3rROM Ahhh... interresting. Ill go have the cca checked at kragen. They do ot for free. I wonder if they are reliable with their tools 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2011edgese Posted April 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 Also remember that the alternator doesn't always put out a constant voltage - the PCM varies it as needed. Yep... aware of it. Googling , foundout 13.7 is average noelw but varies on the pcm seeing fit. I have a meter om it as i drive and aeeind a healthy sweep from 14.5v in the morning to 13.7v later while driving. I'm leaning towards an actual bad battery after 2 years of using a lot of accessories on it while the car was off but never gave me an issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted April 14, 2017 Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 If it's hitting 14.5 that's probably the battery itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2011edgese Posted April 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 (edited) Yep.... im leaning towards the battery. I drove it this morning for 1 hour, saw it at steady 14.4 14.28 volt charge. The 14.5v was at a cold crank first thing in the morning. Fyi, dor the last year, been doing a lot of field work with my laptop and its been powered by a inverter plugged in the cig lighter with the car off for the most part.. I think that deminished the life. Edited April 14, 2017 by 2011edgese Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2011edgese Posted April 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 Still love this car. Hasnt failed me yet mechanically. Been very reliable. No tb issue. But did get the door ajar problem. Fot lucky with that too since a few cans of electrical cleaner fixed it. I have a new issue, maybe you guys know. I noticed i lost the MY KEY options. My other key was the Admin key and even that lost it. I bought the car used from the dealer so I suppose they didnt give me the real master key according to google amd other people having the same exact issue after changing the battery or jumping it. Does the dealer charhe to reprogram the key? Will they waive it seens i was never given the master key? Just wondering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted April 15, 2017 Report Share Posted April 15, 2017 Yep... aware of it. Googling , foundout 13.7 is average noelw but varies on the pcm seeing fit. I have a meter om it as i drive and aeeind a healthy sweep from 14.5v in the morning to 13.7v later while driving. I'm leaning towards an actual bad battery after 2 years of using a lot of accessories on it while the car was off but never gave me an issue The PCM also takes into account the ambient air temp on when to charge the battery more or slow down on the charging. Knowing this also helps determine the charge rate. Cold batteries accept charge better than hot batteries. The voltage of 13.7 would be normal for a long drive, with the higher 14.5 in the beginning as I have noticed the same readings on my Forscan. Your usage of power in your battery indicates you should invest in an AGM battery so that you have the deep cycle abilities to operate electrical equipment without damaging the battery. Wet batteries can not handle the repeated power discharges below 50 percent and they die much sooner under those conditions. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2011edgese Posted April 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2017 The PCM also takes into account the ambient air temp on when to charge the battery more or slow down on the charging. Knowing this also helps determine the charge rate. Cold batteries accept charge better than hot batteries. The voltage of 13.7 would be normal for a long drive, with the higher 14.5 in the beginning as I have noticed the same readings on my Forscan. Your usage of power in your battery indicates you should invest in an AGM battery so that you have the deep cycle abilities to operate electrical equipment without damaging the battery. Wet batteries can not handle the repeated power discharges below 50 percent and they die much sooner under those conditions. Thxs for the info! Yeah, 13.7 seems common now. I replaced the battery this morning and looked at the numbers while I drove. And its almost similar to the old battery. 13.7v after its warmed up but higher when its vold at first crank in the morning. But the new battery did the fix, it has crank fast all day with no signs of drain. I guess using a inverter charging my laptop for these 2 years really killed it. I would go sometimes over 1 hour charhing without the car running. Always started fine and fast. It was until last month I noticed after doing some laptop work while plugged in witjout the engine running that it cranked slower than usual. After that, i got into the habit of starting the car adter 30 to 45 minutes to re charge just in case. But as the days went on, i notice the cranking would get slower and slower until last week it killed the battery in under 25 minutes. Jumped it, and it was fine. Then again after 20 minutes of no engine running and laptop plugged in, it drained again. Jumped it again. Ever since, it cranked slow even after running it for a while. So its not healthy to drain these batteries too much. Lesson learned. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2011edgese Posted April 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2017 The Oreilly Auto parts guy said its not uncommon to see dead batteries in 2 years now since people over use them charging accessories. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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