Kleber Gomes Posted March 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2017 Hi, not yet. Amazon promised to ship the part by 14th of march but yesterday they answered that the supplier failed to deliver it, and that actually they just didn't have any idea of when this could be shipped. I was really disappointed with them. Today I found another supplier through Amazon and he managed to ship it. Expect to receive it by next week, if there's any other surprise. The problem of having hard time starting the engine after refueling is still present and once more the IML appear with the same DTC codes P2196/P2198. I managed to delete the codes and turn off the IML with App Torque. Right now I'm 100% sure the problem is this purge valve, and everything will get back to normal when I replace it. By the way, the dealer told me they have never changed this part before and wasn't able to tell me how long Ford would take to import. They said they would call me back to inform, but never called me back. Japanese dealers really provide a much better quality customer support. As soon as I get and replace the part, I'll share feedbacks, some other informative videos I found about it and also printouts from ECU measurements. Thanks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kleber Gomes Posted March 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2017 Hi there, The part is already in Brazil but now I depend on the government to decide on taxes and to allow the delivery process to run till the end. However, I was talking today with my brother about the problem and I remember something interesting. The problem poped up for the first time right after the last regular visit to the dealer for 42 months maintenance. And, in this visit dealer washed the car completely, including the engine. Just after getting the car from the maintenance (where basically only oil was replaced) I went directly to a gas station and then I experienced the issue where the engine was not starting after refueling. This really called my attention as I faced something strange immediately after leaving the dealer. So, I'm sure that I have a problem with my canister purge valve but ... any change that such issue might have happened because of the engine washed? The valve is not working properly because of a mechanical failure, or due to and electrical problem? If anybody has more info or schematics on how could I measure the voltage provided to the valve, I would appreciate to test it. This morning the car was strange again and I noticed something different. Usually, the pressure in the Evap system (measured in the gas tank) is around -300 Pa. Today, during the abnormal operation this value was around -4.000 Pa. This makes me believe that the purge valve was opened (normally it is closed) thus allowing the engine to generate a higher vaccuum noticed in the gas tank. So, any help to test if the electrical power supply to this valve will be very much welcome! BR, Kleber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted March 21, 2017 Report Share Posted March 21, 2017 Have you taken the valve off and performed a vacuum test on the valve? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kleber Gomes Posted March 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2017 Have you taken the valve off and performed a vacuum test on the valve? Not yet. I have no specific tools for testing vacuum on it. If you have any video/instruction on how to do it I can test. BR/Kleber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted March 22, 2017 Report Share Posted March 22, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kleber Gomes Posted March 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2017 Yes, thanks for sharing. Unfortunately I don't have such manual vacuum generator to test it properly. Will help me anyway to replace the valve. I'm really curious if the issue is mechanical with the valve or if this can be electrical (as for some reason, the proper voltage is not getting to the valve as expected). BR/Kleber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted March 22, 2017 Report Share Posted March 22, 2017 Good question. Statistically, it has been mechanical failure. This is a very busy device, and if you don't use good fuel, you can send it to an early grave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kleber Gomes Posted March 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Good question. Statistically, it has been mechanical failure. This is a very busy device, and if you don't use good fuel, you can send it to an early grave. At the beginning I believed it was mechanical too. But later, I remembered that the problem happened after a revision in a dealer and they washed the engine ... this could have created an electrical problem (hope that's not the case). As soon as I replace the part, will figure it out. Since Monday, no further updates about shipping. Probably is stucked in the customs waiting for a decision about "extra" taxes, or not. BR/Kleber 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Have you unplugged the electrical connector? If there is moisture/rust/corrosion, dry it & clean it out, apply some dielectric grease and reconnect. See if it makes a difference. If it does, the problem could be electrical. A revision, meaning a PCM calibration update? That would still likely point to a mechanical failure because the electrical connections remain the same, only the mechanical operation of the valve is altered. Alternatively, the valve could already be failing, and the changes/wash simply pushed it over the edge, or be a total coincidence. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kleber Gomes Posted March 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2017 Have you unplugged the electrical connector? If there is moisture/rust/corrosion, dry it & clean it out, apply some dielectric grease and reconnect. See if it makes a difference. If it does, the problem could be electrical. A revision, meaning a PCM calibration update? That would still likely point to a mechanical failure because the electrical connections remain the same, only the mechanical operation of the valve is altered. Alternatively, the valve could already be failing, and the changes/wash simply pushed it over the edge, or be a total coincidence. No, last Feb I took the car to a dealer for regular maintenance/revision. Oil exchange, etc ... regular things that are reviewed and replaced. It was exactly after this visit that the problem broke out. Later I returned to the dealer when the PCM was flashed but this was after the issue and IML. Actually I start to think about the electrical possibility this week so I still didn't try to remove the connector yet. The good new is that according to USPS the new part had already left local customs so it may finally get here in the beginning of next week. Then I take a deeper investigation and replacement. Thanks/Kleber 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kleber Gomes Posted March 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2017 Hei guys, Yesterday I received the part, so no issues with our local customs. In the end of the day, I got it earlier than what I was planning. The good news is that the issue is fixed! Halelluia Replaced the part this morning, relatively easy the procedure. In the old part I didn't noticed anything that could lead to an external root-cause. Some dust, but no rust, corrosion or even traces of water. Based on that, my initial conclusion is that it is really an internal failure of the part. Not a full collapse with the expected DTC codes expected in such cases, but it's not being able to hold the vacuum created by the engine at a point that the problem/side effect is noticed. Just immediately after the replacement I noticed an important change in the internal preassure of the evap system. Before, this preassure was always negative (what means vaccum) in the pressure monitor (placed at the gas tank). Very small variations during driving and all the time negative (-300 Pa). After the replacement, I started the engine and the pressure went directly to +85 Pa ... since the problem started I have never ever seen it positive. So it was a big change. Have just returned from the gas station and after refuelling the engine now started without any problem, in absolutely normal conditions. Deleted the error codes from ECU and so far they didn't return. The ride is also smoother. Will post a final post providing you guys all the links, info and pictures, so anybody experiencing the problem will be able to quickly understand, identify and replace. Thank you all for the tips and guidance. BR/Kleber 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted March 26, 2017 Report Share Posted March 26, 2017 Such a small part plays such a big part in the operation of the engine and fuel delivery. Glad it works. I replaced mine before they failed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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