omar302 Posted March 27, 2018 Report Share Posted March 27, 2018 A new switch is now available from Ford to fix the issue, it is more expensive than the solution in the OP. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Young Posted March 27, 2018 Report Share Posted March 27, 2018 A new switch is now available from Ford to fix the issue, it is more expensive than the solution in the OP. Great! Ford is buying the $5.02 switch and selling it 'on sale' for $16 . My $5.02 switch has been working 'perfect' for over 6 months 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUPID Posted April 6, 2018 Report Share Posted April 6, 2018 (edited) I have to do the fix now and copy/pasted the DD2000GT solution into MS Word and cleaned it up for printing. Set the parking brake Start your car and move the shifter into drive (you need to do this so the console cover can move back away from the dash face-plate) Turn the car back off. Remove the center console with the cup holders. Remove the two side trim pieces by pulling straight up. Remove the 6 screws holding this cover down under the trim pieces with a Torx T-20 bit. Separate the center console from the dash face-plate - this also pulls straight out (towards the shifter) and is kind of difficult so pull carefully but aggressively. Pull straight up on the console from the rear closest to the storage box and it will pop loose and up. You will not be able to pull it up much due to a few wires still attached to the console, but it is more than enough to get the job done. Working from the passenger side, locate the existing microswitch mounted to the shifter towards the front. Pry it away from the shifter using a thin blade flathead screwdriver and un-route the wiring so you can pull this switch out enough to work with it. I cut the leads off the old switch where it was soldered in place and I had enough wire sticking out that I could splice the new one in easily. NOTE - Leave just a little of the wire coloring on the old switch so you can match the wires up to the new switch leads as the colors are not the same. Take the lever off the old switch and press it into place on the new switch, Re-mount the new switch to the shifter by pressing the posts into the appropriate holes on the shifter base. NOTE - install the switch with the lever down and the leads on top. Put the console cover back into place just enough so you can operate the shifter. Start the car and test your splices before putting everything back in place in case you need to pull it back out and fix the wiring. After you’re sure everything is fine, put the console back together in the reverse order you took it out. Smile that you finally fixed this annoying problem for $5 and less than an hours work! *EDIT The forum broke the MS Word formatting, of course Edited April 10, 2018 by LUPID 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted April 7, 2018 Report Share Posted April 7, 2018 Nice of you to do this, much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUPID Posted April 10, 2018 Report Share Posted April 10, 2018 (edited) My pleasure, especially seeing how much help you guys provide.Just a note on the switch replacement process. The new switch wire color DOES NOT match the old wires. Even though step 14 says this, I missed it. (I edited that part so no one else can miss it)I followed the above procedure to the letter. When I was done, the switch seemed to be in the toggled ON mode, until in shifted into park. When in park, it still said SHIFT TO PARK, until you toggled the shifter trigger.I connected the new switch to the old wires, matching the old black wire to the new black one. Then the old red wire to the new red wire (obviously). And the old blue wire had to go with the new green wire, right? Nope.Turns out the black is pretty obvious, but the new red wire goes to the old blue wire and the new green wire goes to the old red wire. Not at all intuitive.Good luck! Edited April 10, 2018 by LUPID Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Young Posted April 10, 2018 Report Share Posted April 10, 2018 In post #1 of this Thread it says the colors don't match. I did what post #1 said to do and didn't have any problems figuring out the wiring colors. Just saying.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUPID Posted April 11, 2018 Report Share Posted April 11, 2018 Here I am trying to be helpful. Fuck me, right? Just saying... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Young Posted April 11, 2018 Report Share Posted April 11, 2018 I'm not trying to be a smart ass but your posting something that was posted at post #1 of this Thread 15 months ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUPID Posted April 11, 2018 Report Share Posted April 11, 2018 For sure. I even mentioned that I missed it, even though its plainly stated. I made a mistake and assumed. Just trying to help the next person that half-assed readsthe directions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawncasey Posted April 28, 2018 Report Share Posted April 28, 2018 I have to do the fix now and copy/pasted the DD2000GT solution into MS Word and cleaned it up for printing. Set the parking brake Start your car and move the shifter into drive (you need to do this so the console cover can move back away from the dash face-plate) Turn the car back off. Remove the center console with the cup holders. Remove the two side trim pieces by pulling straight up. Remove the 6 screws holding this cover down under the trim pieces with a Torx T-20 bit. Separate the center console from the dash face-plate - this also pulls straight out (towards the shifter) and is kind of difficult so pull carefully but aggressively. Pull straight up on the console from the rear closest to the storage box and it will pop loose and up. You will not be able to pull it up much due to a few wires still attached to the console, but it is more than enough to get the job done. Working from the passenger side, locate the existing microswitch mounted to the shifter towards the front. Pry it away from the shifter using a thin blade flathead screwdriver and un-route the wiring so you can pull this switch out enough to work with it. I cut the leads off the old switch where it was soldered in place and I had enough wire sticking out that I could splice the new one in easily. NOTE - Leave just a little of the wire coloring on the old switch so you can match the wires up to the new switch leads as the colors are not the same. Take the lever off the old switch and press it into place on the new switch, Re-mount the new switch to the shifter by pressing the posts into the appropriate holes on the shifter base. NOTE - install the switch with the lever down and the leads on top. Put the console cover back into place just enough so you can operate the shifter. Start the car and test your splices before putting everything back in place in case you need to pull it back out and fix the wiring. After you’re sure everything is fine, put the console back together in the reverse order you took it out. Smile that you finally fixed this annoying problem for $5 and less than an hours work! *EDIT The forum broke the MS Word formatting, of course Any tips for step four? (ha!) I'm not sure if I missed anything but I can't find instructions on how to first remove the console before removing the sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted April 28, 2018 Report Share Posted April 28, 2018 This video will describe how to remove it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgoss17 Posted June 11, 2018 Report Share Posted June 11, 2018 Will the Omron D2HW - BL201M work with a 2012 Lincoln MKS.? I'm getting the same message "shift to park" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samiam Posted November 7, 2018 Report Share Posted November 7, 2018 (edited) Thanks to everyone for all the input on this issue. My 2013 sport is doing this again! I had the shifter assembly replaced under warranty at 21k miles... I am now at 53k and it just started happening again. So I am going to buy that $5.02 switch and do it myself. Ford said it was $560+tax for them to replace the assembly. edit: switches ordered.. I got three of them.. I am guessing in another 25K-ish I will need to do this again.. Edited November 7, 2018 by samiam 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omar302 Posted November 7, 2018 Report Share Posted November 7, 2018 5 minutes ago, samiam said: Ford said it was $560+tax for them to replace the assembly. I am surprised dealers don't know that Ford now has a new much cheaper solution. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samiam Posted November 8, 2018 Report Share Posted November 8, 2018 Yeah I saw that post also. In all honesty I asked them outright how much it was to replace the shifter assembly and they gave me the price for that. But they also mentioned doing an assessment first in which they might have determined for themselves it was only the switch and might gave gone that route. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Genie Posted November 12, 2018 Report Share Posted November 12, 2018 I sure wish I would have googled this before I authorized my dealer to replace the entire shift assembly. It's very sad that they can claim the entire assembly is defective while it's only a switch. This is a very sad that they can claim that based on a simple switch. Needless to say I will be mentioning this when I pick up my vehicle. And it seems it is mainly prevalent in the 2013 model. Interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onyxbfly Posted November 12, 2018 Report Share Posted November 12, 2018 (edited) 1 hour ago, Genie said: I sure wish I would have googled this before I authorized my dealer to replace the entire shift assembly. It's very sad that they can claim the entire assembly is defective while it's only a switch. This is a very sad that they can claim that based on a simple switch. Needless to say I will be mentioning this when I pick up my vehicle. And it seems it is mainly prevalent in the 2013 model. Interesting. The dealer may be aware or they very well may not. If you bring it up to their attention and they want to act like Hellen Keller call Ford Corporate and tell them. They are very open and receptive to local dealership concerns/ complaints. Edited November 12, 2018 by onyxbfly 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samiam Posted December 2, 2018 Report Share Posted December 2, 2018 I replaced the switch today on my car... Pretty easy work except for holding my flashlight while working with the wires.. I need one of those head mount lights. My switch I got from mouser had black, red, blue.. I connected black to black, (new) red to (old) blue, then (new) blue to (old) green. Worked! Thanks again to all the good information in this thread! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Young Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 I'm happy people are finding this Thread and saving a lot of money. I did our $5.02 switch over a year ago, and still working perfect. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 It's not a matter of whether Ford knew it was the switch or not, it's just their decision on whether to offer the switch as a separate repair part or not. Normally there would only be a few failures and it's easier to just replace the entire assembly. Since there were a lot of reported problems and Ford did their research and determined it was the switch they came up with the procedure and part to fix it. It's not like they said "we know it's just the switch but let's screw them and force them to replace the entire thing." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samiam Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 I also want to mention, be careful when prying the old switch off of the shifter assembly. I had one of the plastic posts break off and get stuck in the hole. I was able to get it out by tapping it on the back side and then using some needle nose pliers but for a moment there I was like "oh crap!".. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Young Posted December 5, 2018 Report Share Posted December 5, 2018 On 12/3/2018 at 11:54 AM, samiam said: I also want to mention, be careful when prying the old switch off of the shifter assembly. I had one of the plastic posts break off and get stuck in the hole. I was able to get it out by tapping it on the back side and then using some needle nose pliers but for a moment there I was like "oh crap!".. It must be a common thing to happen. When I was installing the new switch, it would not go into the holes. I looked and noticed one of the old part legs had broken off and was in the hole. I gave it a couple hits and the old post fell out. I didn't give it much thought but like I said, it might be a common thing to happen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serge Posted April 3, 2019 Report Share Posted April 3, 2019 On 1/16/2017 at 10:47 PM, DD2000GT said: Reposting per Moderator for any that get a dash error message to shift to park when the shifter is in the park position: I registered to this site specifically to post on this semi-common issue to help any like myself who research how to fix issues themselves. I can attest this issue can easily be fixed with just replacing a $5 microswitch and less than 1 hour of easy time. Thanks to the previous poster that posted the microswitch info, but I saw a few posts with the wrong parts being shown to fix this issue. You need a SPDT three lead switch with the posts on the left side. The CORRECT Omron switch part number is D2HW - BL201M - this version has three leads already in place for easy spicing. I got mine from Mouser Electronics for $5.02. If you want the version with the solder posts, the part number is D2HW - BL201H but you will probably need to remove a lot more stuff to get this resoldered. I went ahead and bought a few spares as well as I expect this to fail again at some point... Don't worry about getting one with a lever, as you will pull the lever off the old switch and put it on the new one. The great part is you won't have to remove the shifter if you get the switch with the leads already attached. Start by setting the parking brake, then start your car and move the shifter into drive (you need to do this so the console cover can move back away from the dash face-plate), then turn the car back off. Remove the center console with the cup holders. Remove the two side trim pieces by pulling straight up. Then, remove the 6 screws holding this cover down under the trim pieces with a Torx T-20 bit. Now, separate the center console from the dash face-plate - this also pulls straight out (towards the shifter) and is kind of difficult so pull carefully but aggressively. Pull straight up on the console from the rear closest to the storage box and it will pop loose and up. You will not be able to pull it up much due to a few wires still attached to the console, but it is more than enough to get the job done. Working from the passenger side, locate the existing microswitch mounted to the shifter towards the front. Pry it away from the shifter using a thin blade flathead screwdriver and un-route the wiring so you can pull this switch out enough to work with it. I cut the leads off the old switch where it was soldered in place and I had enough wire sticking out that I could splice the new one in easily. NOTE - Leave just a little of the wire coloring on the old switch so you can match the wires up to the new switch leads as the colors are not the same. Take the lever off the old switch and press it into place on the new switch, then re-mount the new switch to the shifter by pressing the posts into the appropriate holes on the shifter base. NOTE - install the switch with the lever down and the leads on top. Put the console cover back into place just enough so you can operate the shifter. Start the car and test your splices before putting everything back in place in case you need to pull it back out and fix the wiring. After your sure everything is fine, put the console back together in reverse order you took it out. Then smile that you finally fixed this annoying problem for $5 and less than an hours work! I hope I helped someone from either paying the crazy dealership price or buy a completely new shifter and spend much more time and effort taking things apart to do this. I will like to Thank You, I followed your instructions ordered the microswitch and installed it the Shift to Park is gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Young Posted May 23, 2020 Report Share Posted May 23, 2020 Well, my switch is going bad again. I replaced mine on September 30, 2017. My wife is getting the shift to park warning again, it did it with me once. Just wiggle the shifter a couple times and the warning goes off. They went up to $5.64 for the switch at Mouser Electronics . I just ordered 2 of them for $21.15, tax and shipping Thank goodness for this Forum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omar302 Posted May 24, 2020 Report Share Posted May 24, 2020 11 hours ago, David Young said: Well, my switch is going bad again. I replaced mine on September 30, 2017. My wife is getting the shift to park warning again, it did it with me once. Just wiggle the shifter a couple times and the warning goes off. They went up to $5.64 for the switch at Mouser Electronics . I just ordered 2 of them for $21.15, tax and shipping Thank goodness for this Forum Ford now sells their switch separately (link) (without the whole shifter). This was part of TSB 17- 2219 (link). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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