davidceder Posted January 1, 2017 Report Share Posted January 1, 2017 Taking my 2016 Sport in for its first oil change. Dealer is recommending I use full synthetic oil instead of the blend. What do you guys think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted January 1, 2017 Report Share Posted January 1, 2017 Absolutely not necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beezz Posted January 1, 2017 Report Share Posted January 1, 2017 (edited) Use what will match your driving habits and requirements. Looked in owners manual at the 2.7 Specs Chart: Recommended motor oil (U.S.): WSS-M2C946-A Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil XO-5W30-QSP Recommended motor oil (Canada): WSS-M2C946-A Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 Super Premium Motor Oil CXO-5W30-LSP12 Recommended motor oil (Mexico): WSS-M2C946-A Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil MXO-5W30-QSP Optional motor oil (U.S. and Mexico): WSS-M2C946-A Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 Full Synthetic Motor Oil XO-5W30-QFS Optional motor oil (Canada): WSS-M2C946-A Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil CXO-5W30-LFS12 So Full Synthetic or Blend is fine according to Ford. Edited January 1, 2017 by Beezz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted January 1, 2017 Report Share Posted January 1, 2017 Just remember to use the appropriate OC interval for your driving style, Normal or Severe Service. The so called Intelligent Monitor is decidely not so intelligent. Months or Miles whichever comes first. With Ecoboost engines, it never hurts to step up to a quality full synthetic oil, but again, the main thing is OC interval. Do not skimp. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 Outside of maybe the Ford GT, all Fords leave the factory with synthetic blend motor craft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tacyon Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 While "Absolutely not necessary" who here wants to cut corners on their oil. Not me, full synthetic every 5000k Never heard of an early death of a motor due to too frequent oil changes or using too high of quality of oil. The main reason I use only full synthetic is that as it breaks down, it doesn't create the acids that organics or to a lesser degree blends do. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 Here's an interesting (technical) read on how both types of oil breakdown. http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/475/oil-breakdown Synthetic is better for engines with turbo's (better all the way around which is why they cost so much more). However, the engine was carefully tested with the blend and Ford recommends it. Is it worth the extra cost to you? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beezz Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 (edited) Canadian Tire had Pennzoil ultra platinum for around $35 for a 5 L jug recently, normally $60 each. You can also submit a rebate request http://www.pennzoil.com/en_ca/promotions/do-it-yourself-oil-change/promotion-1b.html There is probably something similar for the USA, and other oil brands. Edited January 2, 2017 by Beezz 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tacyon Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 "...engines with turbo's" - agreed. reason, it's a better oil given the increased temperatures and RPMs experienced in the turbo itself. "...tested with the blend and Ford recommends it" Agreed on the 1st part, matter of semantics on the 2nd. They don't strictly "recommend" as much as to say it's been tested and found to be sufficient for the expected environment. If cost was all the same, I'd bet that they and anyone else would recommend synthetics for a host of reasons. But I don't think we need to get this into this kind of debate. I was just offering my person experience and opinion. "...worth the extra cost to you?" Yes. (Never heard of an early death of a motor due to too frequent oil changes or using too high of quality of oil.) Interesting read on your link. Very detailed and granular info on what I kind of already surmised. Thanks for the read tho. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefduane Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 (edited) Full synthetic Mobil-1 5w-20 Extended Performance and a Mobil-1 EP Filter (Ford FL500S OEM replacement) for me. 5k mile intervals. I do my own oil+filter changes and run an AEM Dryflow air filter that I clean at each interval. Whatever extra I spend on the oil+filter I save by doing it myself. Is it worth it? Yes. Besides, I like doing it. EDIT: I also installed a Fumoto Qwik Valve to make draining easier. I know it takes a bit longer as the oil flow is constrained, but that just leaves time to clean the air filter. Edited January 4, 2017 by chefduane 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
autom8r Posted January 4, 2017 Report Share Posted January 4, 2017 +1 every 5k miles, Mobil 1 5w 30 full synthetic with High Mileage additive package. DIY with EZ Oil Drain valve. 187,000 miles. It's worth it. Crankcase sludge is the enemy. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted January 4, 2017 Report Share Posted January 4, 2017 Isn't 5W20 recommended for the 3.5 NA engines, autom8r? How long have you been running the 5W30? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IWRBB Posted January 4, 2017 Report Share Posted January 4, 2017 (edited) The only engine failures I've personally witnessed in cars owned by family and friends in the last 25 years has come from turbo 4 cylinder engines. Sludged up oil pickups were the culprits. I'd only run full synthetic in a turbo engine to prevent oil sludging. On the 5w20 vs 5w30 thing- Ford powertrain engineers have said the 20 was used for CAFE fuel mileage gains only- and that they run 5w30 in their own vehicles for the most protection. I use 5W30 in all my Fords, and they all call for 5W20. Ford actually went back to a 5W30 recommendation on the 6.2L V8s this year, after years of recommending 5W20. As far as I know- they have been no changes to that engine at all. Edited January 4, 2017 by IWRBB 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tacyon Posted January 4, 2017 Report Share Posted January 4, 2017 (edited) to echo what IWRBB is saying, basically speaking ... the 5w20 vs 5w30 is saying - a 20 (or 30) weight oil the behaves like a 5 weight oil at very low temperatures. a "50 weight" oil is VERY thick and is often called "gear lube". In my 40+ years of working on engines, they've pretty much all called for "X"W30 or 30 weight oil (5W30 or 10W30). The 5W20, lower viscosity oil would offer less resistance via its lower viscosity and hence higher mileage gains. The 5W30 would offer better viscosity retention and lubrication protection at normal sustained loads and temperatures experienced in "normal" driving conditions. Edited January 5, 2017 by Tacyon 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted January 4, 2017 Report Share Posted January 4, 2017 Good to know. Yeah, I knew the 5W20 was for CAFE. But it is hard to decide to change viscosities when oil isn't just cooling the engine but also controlling the timing. I am trying to remember whether macbwt used 5W30 in his 2008 Orange Crush or not, but towards the "end" he did use High Mileage type oil to slow/stop a leak from a seal or two. I will give 5W30 (full synthetic) a go next time, am running Mobil1 EP 0W20 in it for now, and it feels pretty good. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
autom8r Posted January 4, 2017 Report Share Posted January 4, 2017 I use 5w30 to minimize the piston slap. With 187,000 miles, I'm sure there are surfaces that are out of tolerance. 30w gives a little more protection on startups. So far no discernible leakage from any seals. I began running the 5w-30 at 120,000. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted January 4, 2017 Report Share Posted January 4, 2017 Can't argue with a "hi-roller" Higher viscosity oils are used in older engines as they age precisely for the reasons you mentioned, autom8r, this Cyclone line ... data is still in the gathering stage, we are living the history, so to speak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted January 4, 2017 Report Share Posted January 4, 2017 I don't want to weight in on the weight debate but one factor to be aware of is, if you do not use the oil recommended by Ford or Lincoln and have an engine failure, for any reason, they have the right to void your warranty. (And have done so in the past). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted January 5, 2017 Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 I am currently running 0W20 with my Edge at 175,000 miles (2011 3.5) Amsoil. My 2008 Edge I was using 10W30 high mileage due to a rear main seal leak, but with 285,000 miles something is going to leak. My wifes Edge is currently working towards the first 200hrs with about 125hrs already on the AMSOIL 0W20. Testing will be confirming the state of the oil. My Edge has already ran through the first 200hrs run with 0W20 AMSOIL and the results indicated excellent testing results and based on two lab test from two separate labs the decision to go to 250hrs was made. I am at 150 hrs currently with 100hrs to go. I will post the oil testing results of the 250hrs run once I achieve the hours. Why am I using hours instead of miles. Simple hours are far more reliable as a measurement. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tacyon Posted January 5, 2017 Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 macbwt has replaced his odometer with a hour meter! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted January 5, 2017 Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 Stole it from the power co! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted January 5, 2017 Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 macbwt has replaced his odometer with a hour meter! The odometer was spinning too fast to read it anyway................ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefduane Posted January 5, 2017 Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 Hobbs Meter aka 'the Hobbs' in an aircraft is what an hour meter is called. All maintenance is tied to airframe and engine hours. I actually thought about how to wire it up in a vehicle and mount it, but too much trouble for what its worth. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted January 5, 2017 Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 Even lawn mowers have Hobbs Meters. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefduane Posted January 5, 2017 Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 ..never seen one on a lawn mower! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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