normcloutier Posted December 19, 2016 Report Share Posted December 19, 2016 I had the 60k service done on my 13 SEL last week. Upcoming service recommendation was to have the rear brakes done (pads were at 3mm) which would include new rotors. At 60k? New rotors? Rotors are perfect other than obviously 60k of use. No gouges or grooves. Is this just a money grab or am I missing something here? Looking for opinions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted December 19, 2016 Report Share Posted December 19, 2016 Based on your evaluation of the rotor condition, I'd say money grab. Much more important to service the calipers, make sure the brake fluid looks good, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWizard Posted December 19, 2016 Report Share Posted December 19, 2016 It might not hurt to have the rotors machined to get rid of unevenly deposited friction material. Some shops will insist on turning the rotors (or replacing them) to avoid customers coming back complaining of "warped" rotors. Rotors don't actually warp... they get friction material from the pads unevenly deposited causing excessive runout (variation in the surface flatness) which produces a pulsing or vibration when the brakes are applied. Machining will get rid of the variances and give you a nice even surface for the new pads to "bed" into. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted December 24, 2016 Report Share Posted December 24, 2016 As a rule machine the rotors and put new pads on. You should be fine for about another 60K then new rotors and pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spree Posted December 25, 2016 Report Share Posted December 25, 2016 Just recently replaced my rear brake pads at 78,000 miles, I was also at 3mm. I had rotors turned at the same time, which was required by my local ford dealer. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted December 25, 2016 Report Share Posted December 25, 2016 May the new pads work well with the refreshed rotors! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted December 26, 2016 Report Share Posted December 26, 2016 For two previous oil changes with the dealer, they reported that I needed to replace my brakes soon. (85k). Following this, the brakes were reported as being ok. On the last oil change I specifically asked them to check the brakes and the reported them as being ok. (Currently 100k). So the lesson is, ignore them and they repair themselves. heh 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IWRBB Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 I always replace rotors when I do brakes. They are only about $50 each max. I spend a lot of time cleaning and scraping the hub face with WD40 and a razor to make sure there are no high spots. After all that work- I'm not putting used rotors on there since you will never get the unevenly corroded rear face of a used rotor to sit flat on the hub like a new rotor will. That runout will be felt in the pedal. Not to brag, but any brake job I've ever done is always 100% smooth- never any pedal vibes at all. New rotors, clean hubs, new slide hardware, and pads that can easily move in the caliper slides are key to that. Sometimes you have to file off some "slag" from the backing plate ears to get the pads to easily slide in the caliper. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CourtneyH Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 My 2011 Edge has 66k miles, and needs new rotors. I was disappointed/surprised to need them this soon. Definitely worth having yours checked out or turned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefduane Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 (edited) I'm with IWRBB. Every brake job that I've ever done myself (and helped out on many) I use new rotors, pads, and hardware. Then take the old rotors to a local metal salvage and get a few bucks to offset the beer expense! UPDATE: I just checked RA and they have a Power Stop 4 wheel kit (OE Daily Driver) for $193 which includes rotors, ceramic pads and hardware, slide lube, and anti-squeal compound. And it probably takes less time to do cause you don't have to haul your rotors somewhere, wait to have them turned, and haul them back. Just my $.02. Edited January 23, 2017 by chefduane 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWizard Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 IWRBB? International World of Rotors Before Beer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 I Want Root Beer Badly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IWRBB Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 I would rather be blown... I have a car with a roots blower on it, and I just made up a user name that wasn't in use on every forum out there. Comes from t-shirts about babys and bottles (nitrous) and the preference of having a supercharger instead. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWizard Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 My apologies. I had read chefduane's comment "I'm with IWRBB" as though he meant "I work for a company named IWRBB" and posted my little joke prior to realizing that he was referring to your username. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefduane Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Heh Heh. Sorry for the unintentional misdirection. I'm actually with IWoPCWADTOBJ's. International World of Professional Chefs Who Also Do Their Own Brake Jobs. Kinda' wordy but catchy, eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 I'm glad you clarified Brake Jobs......... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tacyon Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Not so fast on the "I don't need no stinkin rotors !" Back in the day and on my own vehicles, I used to "turn rotors" with every pad change. Its called "dress em up a bit". Like honing a piston cylinder when replacing the rings. Its what you do. The government has virtually always had a minimum wall thickness beyond which you can no longer "turn" or "dress" a rotor. This prevents the rotor from becoming too thin and failing either at the cooling fins or the actual rotor wall itself. I purchased a old '72 vista wagon that unbeknownst to me they'd been turned more than a few times and also suffered bad fin rot. They failed on the way home and went "full metallic". It was a gruesome sound that I don't EVER want to hear again let along loosing 80% of the breaking force. Actually got to see the inner rotor "rings" bouncing down the street behind me. True story bro. Fast forward to "modern days" and the federal regs are still in place and since we're dealing with safety, cost of manufacture, liabilities, profits (yes, people want to make one) the manufactures of rotors have for sometime manufactured the rotors with just a bit more wall thickness then is needed to be "just thick enough". Look at it this way. You heat craze (cracks in the surface of the metal) a rotor, or stop very hard and the heat causes it to warp giving you the "bounce" in the petal when you stop. A mechanic is more than likely to replaced it because of any or all of the reasons above. Turn a rotor to resolve warpage or heat damage and it'll leave you at the limit.... so you've wasted your time trying to turn them and end up needing to replace the rotors anyways. Now, the manufacture sees this trend in replacement vs turning a rotor and ask themselves, why should we make a rotor that can be turned 2, 3, or 4 times when it's just going to get tossed (save $$$). Also, brake lathes in the corner shop are becoming a thing of the past as well due the the above reasons. Now, take all this and put your lovely wife, sweet kids, and mans best friend, your dog, in the back seat and have your brakes fail on the expressway at 70mph. You'll be rethinking that $50 - $150 bucks per corner that you saved by NOT replacing those rotors. Yes, I've been (on my personal vehicle) a "pad stuffer" but only one pad cycle. Then it all gets replaced by me. Pads, calipers, & rotors. I do this because I know how I drive. I know what the brake hardware is supposed to look like and I'm taking responsibility for my hardware. And I'm confident that a rotor will be (and has been) fine to 1-3 pad cycles with my driving and the rotors I use. To the question of "at 60k, 70k, 80k, do I really need to do this? That is a question who's answer is predicated on "how do you drive?" If you drive aggressively and brake hard a majority of the time you'd have to replace the hardware more often then my grandma does. God rest her sole. I've known some very laid back drivers whos tires and brakes last a virtual life time. Heck, the tries almost dry rot before they're out of tread. TL:DR -> its a safety thing, at 50-60k, why gamble on your loved ones lives or yourself for a few bucks. To quote Nike - "Just Do it." 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IWRBB Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 (edited) Yes, I've been (on my personal vehicle) a "pad stuffer" but only one pad cycle. It's "pad slapper", ie "slap a new set of pads on there", ya know what every Midas store advertises. Edited January 23, 2017 by IWRBB 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tacyon Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 No, I didn't know that. I rarely watch the boob tube. I've always referred to it as "stuffer" as I'm stuffing the caliper with new pads. But yea, same thinking and gets the "shade tree mechanic" idea in there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefduane Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 I second what Tacyon said. Especially about the dog. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 I Want Root Beer Badly?"I Would Rather Be Baking" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Telling it like it is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted January 24, 2017 Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 Hey now my brakes last a very long time and I go through tires like cops and donuts. LOL Love the cops though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mirage52 Posted January 26, 2017 Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 (edited) I've got a 13 SEL, FWD...45K and I'm getting some pulsing from my brake pedal. I haven't taken a look at the pads/rotors yet but I am wondering if I should just go ahead and replace all pads and rotors or if people are noticing that the front or rears are wearing faster than the others. I had to replace the rear pads on my wife's VW Eos after 30K, and the fronts were fine until about 80K. I am wondering if this is the same. Also, is there any tool I need to remove the rotors? Should I rent a brake kit from the local Autozone? The wife's VW had a rotor lock. Edited January 26, 2017 by Mirage52 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefduane Posted January 26, 2017 Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 45k seems a little low for needing brakes but a lot depends upon your style of driving. I usually replace rotors when replacing pads although you might opt for machining/turning them. Just check the thickness with a mic or caliper to determine if they are within spec. (I don't know the spec - someone might chime in.) Rotors should come right off, but I see you are in Maryland. I assume your DOT salts the roads up there so they might be seized/rusted to the hubs. In that case you might need a BFH. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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