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Motor overheat


Dino615

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So my wife text me and said her air stopped working and then called almost immediately and said it died. When I picked her up she said the display told her it overheated. I scanned it first thing and got a P1299. Then I opened the hood and the reservoir was bone dry. First thing I did was check the oil, liked fine. I ran and got a gallon of water and a gallon of anti-freeze. I poured in the gallon of water and waited, nothing. Checked the oil, seemed fine. Poured in about half a gallon of anti freeze and it was finally showing in the reservoir so I waited a minute. The engine ran smooth. After about a minute water Started running out from under the car. Checked the oil and it was slowly getting milking. Obviously an issue. I snapped a picture and a short video before I shut it off. And suggestions? Does this look like a cracked block, or could it be a head gasket? Or is it still just a guessing game??

 

It won't let me upload the video.

 

Thanks

post-42829-0-46645400-1474412911_thumb.jpg

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The video should be uploaded to a sharing site like flickr, photobucket, etc then linked back here.

 

How many miles on your MKX? "water" coming out, meaning coolant, right? From the location, it is likely a cracked block OR the coolant xover tube OR the thermostat housing that gave way.

 

I hate to say this, but regardless of the cause (water pump, head gasket, cracked block), you may want to look at getting a low mileage used engine and having that put in instead of attempting repairs. At least figure out if that option is viable for you or not.

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Yes, coolant/water i had just added. It has 111k miles on it, it was a cool 88 degrees today so she was running the air but just everyday driving. I am not discounting it, but I have never heard of s block cracking in the middle of summer for no reason. What would cause that? Any of the other answers sure sound better to my wallet

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Ugh, sorry to hear! Dropping in a new engine then? And I wouldn't blame da wife. I think it's just lousy that the design of the water pump makes it near impossible to figure things out until the failure happens. I guess that should be a warning to all of us to change the coolant sooner than the stated 105K miles for the first change. Just not worth the risk.

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Ugh, sorry to hear! Dropping in a new engine then? And I wouldn't blame da wife. I think it's just lousy that the design of the water pump makes it near impossible to figure things out until the failure happens. I guess that should be a warning to all of us to change the coolant sooner than the stated 105K miles for the first change. Just not worth the risk.

 

Yes, doing the engine swap. I am trying hard not to blame her, but this is the second car in a row that she has blown the motor on (03 Altima 3.5s), and she said, "well, it didn't want to go so I just kept pushing the gas until it did."

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Wouldnt call it failsafe, but it is pretty neat in that only 3 cylinders are fired and the remaining 3 are used as "air coolers". I had asked a tuner about having that as an optional economy mode (cylinder deactivation), but was told it's not a good idea.

 

Anyway, make sure your wife gets a non-3.5. Maybe "3.5" is a jinx LOL.

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ok, that's new to me. Will look it up.

 

EDIT: Ok, I see it in the OM. Here is an excerpt for the 2007 Edge:

What you should know about fail-safe cooling
If the engine coolant supply is depleted, this feature allows the vehicle to
be driven temporarily before incremental component damage is incurred.
The “fail-safe” distance depends on ambient temperatures, vehicle load
and terrain.
How fail-safe cooling works
If the engine begins to overheat:
• The engine coolant temperature gauge will move to the red (hot) area.
• The symbol will illuminate.
If the engine reaches a preset over-temperature condition, the engine
will automatically switch to alternating cylinder operation. Each disabled
cylinder acts as an air pump and cools the engine.
When this occurs the vehicle will still operate. However:
• The engine power will be limited.
• The air conditioning system will be disabled.
Continued operation will increase the engine temperature:
• The engine will completely shut down.
• Steering and braking effort will increase.
Once the engine temperature cools, the engine can be re-started. Take
your vehicle to an authorized dealer as soon as possible to minimize
engine damage.
When fail-safe mode is activated
You have limited engine power when in the fail-safe mode, so drive the
vehicle with caution. The vehicle will not be able to maintain high speed
operation and the engine will run rough. Remember that the engine is
capable of completely shutting down automatically to prevent engine
damage, therefore:
1. Pull off the road as soon as safely possible and turn off the engine.
2. Arrange for the vehicle to be taken to an authorized dealer.
3. If this is not possible, wait a short period for the engine to cool.
4. Check the coolant level and replenish if low.
Never remove the coolant reservoir cap while the engine is
running or hot.

5. Restart the engine and take your vehicle to an authorized dealer.
Driving the vehicle without repairing the engine problem
increases the chance of engine damage. Take your vehicle to an
authorized dealer as soon as possible.

Edited by WWWPerfA_ZN0W
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Wouldnt call it failsafe, but it is pretty neat in that only 3 cylinders are fired and the remaining 3 are used as "air coolers". I had asked a tuner about having that as an optional economy mode (cylinder deactivation), but was told it's not a good idea.

 

Anyway, make sure your wife gets a non-3.5. Maybe "3.5" is a jinx LOL.

That's funny, hadn't thought of that.

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