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07 MKX dash lights on constant


Dino615

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So this morning my wife ran her car through the car wash (with under carriage wash). She got a towel out of the back and dried it then put the towel back in back of the vehicle, closed the tailgate and vacuumed the car. When she got in to start it and leave, all the error indicators on the dash were on (check brakes, flat tire indicator, high beam indicator, traction control, etc). The tailgate will not open now, the memory seats do not work, and the radio doesn't work. The seats work, just not the memory. I scanned it but it's not throwing any ODB codes at all. When you turn the car off all the white on the instrument cluster stays on, and the blue high beam indicator stay on.

 

Has anyone ever run across this? Any help at all would be appreciated. I have the batter disconnected right now so that the dash doesn't kill the battery, but obviously that is not a fix.

 

Thank you in advance for any suggestions.

 

 

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Possibly a ground related issue. High pressure washes can cause moisture related issues. Roll back the carpet to see if there's any wetness. Could have hit the passenger compartment fuse panel.

I've looked under the car and engine compartment for water and they are bone dry. I sprayed compressed air into the only exposed connectors on the under carriage but no help. I'll check the passenger side though tonight.

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I just checked the floor and it was dry. Puked back the carpet and still nothing. Blew air through the fuse panel front to back and back to front. Crawled under the car and checked any electrical connection. Nothing but I still have the problem. I have put a trickle charger in the battery for the night. Tomorrow I will let the car bake in the sun and see what happens. I'm at a loss though.

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The fuse panel is under the steering column/above the deadpedal area.

 

EDIT: The battery is looking more & more likely. How old is it, do you know? Have any electrical issues popped up recently prior to these? The alternator & wiring in between can't be ruled out without a test either.

Edited by WWWPerfA_ZN0W
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Don't forget to check the box of relays (battery junction box) under the hood next to the battery. A loose cover could let water intrude. It's the green box next to the battery in this drawing.

 

2011-07-04_194709_1.png

 

 

Ok, so I just had the battery tested and it's fine. Soooo, now back to the drawing board. Is there a way to open the hatch manually?

 

Here are my observations if anyone has any additional insights.

1. The car runs fine, AC works, power seats work from the seat, but not the memory, cruise control works.

2. There are no ODB codes

3. The lights stay on the dash (traction control, high beams, low tire, low fuel, low battery, etc., all lights), and the display sends error messages.

4. The turn signals do not work at all.

 

I am thinking that since it's not the battery, and the fuse panels are both completely dry then it has to be a short to ground somewhere. I am going to start with anything that could get water in because they were exposed to the high pressure water. I am going to start pulling the tail light fuses, turn signal fuses, etc. I cannot open the hatch so I cannot check the tail lights for water.

 

Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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Ok, so you can release the rear hatch manually. There is a little rectangle in the middle of the hatch that you pop off and the release lever will pop the hatch with one finger. Very easy.

 

On to my issue. I pulled pretty much every single fuse that may have to do with anything electrical where water could get in. Tail lights, turn signals, trailer, liftgate, seat release, etc. etc. I pulled many under the hood to that could have been any access point. The dash lights and the high beam indicator remained lit the entire time. All the error indicator lights still remain on when you turn the key on. The radio still does not work, the memory seats do not work, the tailgate will not go up and down. The turn signals did start working after I went through all of that though. I jacked the vehicle up and chck the undercarriage too. Not only are there no obvious signs of a poor ground, I have to say that it's one of the cleanest undercarriages I have every seen. It literally looks brad new under there. There was barel any surface rust on the exhaust header/catalytic and the rest of the undercarriage had zero rust and very little dirt.

 

So here is what works: Motor, brake lights, headlights, interior lights, power seats, door locks, power windows, cruise control, wipers (front & Rear), hazards, turn signals

Things that do NOT work: Tailgate, radio, memory seats, fog lights, turn signal does not click. They are flashing, but not clicking (seems minor but trying to give as much info in case it jogs someones memory).

Additional Issues: Dash lights and high beam indicator stay on regardless of key position. When running, error messages are check brakes, check tire pressure, check oil. All status lights on the dash are on.

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I've attached some wiring diagrams pertinent to your situation.

Ok, so i just went through all of the diagrams and everything I can tell is all linked back to the Smart Junction Box. Can you help me with a few of questions?

 

1. Is there a way to test if this has gone bad? Could it have shorted out or failed and caused all of these issues?

2. Can I replace this or does it have to be done at a mechanic/dealership?

3. What does it look like? If I can get to it an pull it to check if water did happen to get to it in the car wash then I can attempt to dry it with air or some slight hair dryer heat. and then put it back in. It's not the actual fuse block is it?

 

Thanks for your help. While I hate the sudden problems, I actually enjoy the forum help and trying to fix these problems myself.

Edited by Dino615
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Dino:

 

Sorry I was in the bay area yesterday. Didn't have my computer and files.

 

I've attached some diagrams of the Edge's wire looms. The SJB is in the driver's side foot well. Many of the wires pass under the dead pedal, which I think is a horrible spot to run wires, maybe yours may have been frayed over time. Pull the carpet back and have a look.

 

The SJB should you decide to replace it will need to be programmed at the dealer. It's part of the vehicles CAN bus and must code in with the other modules on the bus.

 

My guess is that one of the connectors is loose or wire loom damaged.

 

Good luck.

 

 

Ford Edge pp4998-5005 Wiring.pdf

Ford Edge cabin cabling.pdf

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Dino:

 

Sorry I was in the bay area yesterday. Didn't have my computer and files.

 

I've attached some diagrams of the Edge's wire looms. The SJB is in the driver's side foot well. Many of the wires pass under the dead pedal, which I think is a horrible spot to run wires, maybe yours may have been frayed over time. Pull the carpet back and have a look.

 

The SJB should you decide to replace it will need to be programmed at the dealer. It's part of the vehicles CAN bus and must code in with the other modules on the bus.

 

My guess is that one of the connectors is loose or wire loom damaged.

 

Good luck.

 

 

No problem. I appreciate you getting back to me at all. all the diagrams you have provided have been great. I did pull the carpet back some under the dead pedal last night, but i was only looking for water or ground points. I will try pulling that back and look for frays.

 

There was a piece of the weather strip torn off and sitting at the top of the liftgate. I didn't realize that there was electrical connections up top so I can check there.

 

Last night I pulled all the connectors to the fuse block and re-seated them. I pulled the connectors for the doors and blew them out with air in case of water. I also pulled everything from the cargo area and disconnected the liftgate motor, seat release and power point on that side and nothing. I inspected for any loose wires, or bad grounds there too. Still having the problem.

 

It doesn't look like it from the images that you sent, but is there a way to isolate certain parts of the electrical? If I could isolate left and right, or front and rear then at least I would have a chance at determining what is going on.

 

The hardest part is this is my wife's car and she has to take it to work every day so I can test for a few hours in the evening and then I have to button it back up. She drives it to work and disconnects the battery then reconnects and drives it back home.

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Dino:

 

You are now entering the twilight zone. Here is the section of the repair manual that describes the CAN BUS and the relationship between modules. You may require dealer intervention from this point onward.

 

This ain't your Father's Oldsmobile.

 

Ford Edge pp4499-4517 Modules.pdf

Ford Edge pp4805-4812 Wiring.pdf

Edited by autom8r
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  • 1 year later...

Thanks, the thing is I thought I had it isolated to the smart junction box too and it's not hard to change but the keyless entry and key fobs won't work unless you have the dealer reprogram it. I bought one and installed it, plugged in the battery and...the freaking high beam indicator and dash lights are still always on. I did this to check it before I took it to the dealer for reprogramming

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