doldonics Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 (edited) My stepdaughters 2011 ford edge had a water pump failure 213K miles. I suspect the engine is toast, milkshake inside for who knows how long. I am going to get a replacement engine and trans. Any advice would be helpful. It looks like the engine and trans drops down with the subframe. - Up to what year can I get to replace the engine? I have been told that it is the same until 2015. - Up to what year can I get to replace the transmission? I have also been told that it is the same until 2015, but I have also been told that it will have to be recoded from the dealer. - I am thinking LKQ.... The Edge really is in nice shape, not a single dent on it, and it would be a shame to scrap it. Two buddies of mine volunteered to help, so as long as I get good beer and chow it looks like this could be a fun swap.... Thanks, George p.s. if macbwt or waldo are reading this, I heard you guys are the experts on this...... ! Edited August 23, 2016 by doldonics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doldonics Posted August 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 Well, I just saw macbwt's post "What does a P0016 have to do with water pump failure?" Great video, exactly what happened to my stepdaughters car. Looks like 2011 -2014 engines will work. Anyone know about the trannies? Thanks, George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 You are correct, there is a software upgrade/calibration required with a replacement transmission or replacement solenoid body. As per the manual: If a replacement transaxle assembly is being installed or a new solenoid body is installed, the PCM will must be reflashed with a new solenoid body strategy and identification data file. For additional information, refer to Solenoid Body Strategy in this section. I might be tempted to use a 2010 6F50, but I would stick with a 2011-14 6F50 for the replacement also to minimize behavioral anomalies. They switched to Mercon LV in 2010, and may have changed the programming accordingly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted August 24, 2016 Report Share Posted August 24, 2016 2011 transmission I would by pass on as some early Transmissions had valve body issues. Go for at least a 2012 transmission but up to a 2014. Make sure it is matched as far as FWD and AWD. Engine is the same routine, but if you can get a 3.5 to match that is newer the better also I think there was a change to the Ecoboost so make sure it matches as your 2011 is a non ecoboost. Just an FYI if you buy a used engine. Might want to change out the water pump in that one also for a newer water pump. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doldonics Posted September 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2016 Hey Guys,I found a salvage yard with a 22K miles engine from a 2013 Ford Flex. Will that work? Just wanna make sure, thanks! - George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted September 8, 2016 Report Share Posted September 8, 2016 Edge and Flex are completely different platforms so it's hard to say. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted September 8, 2016 Report Share Posted September 8, 2016 Differences in sensors will definitely happen, and likely the camshaft, timing set, and other critical components as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted September 9, 2016 Report Share Posted September 9, 2016 (edited) I would not go by car-part.com necessarily. Perhaps the bare block will interchange, but not necessarily the rotating assemblies, for example. Maybe Ford Customer Service can help, if you get a hold of a knowledgeable person. 2014_Edge_Tech_Specs.pdf 2013-ford-flex-tech specs.pdf 2011-ford-edge-tech specs.pdf 2012-ford-edge-tech specs.pdf Edited September 9, 2016 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doldonics Posted September 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2016 Thanks!!! Looking at the specs, the throttle body is a different bore size, the compression ratios are also different. Wow. That would have been a big mistake, I bet the ECU code is different for both engines. Lemme see what the guy says from LKQ. - George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doldonics Posted September 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2016 Ok, he has a 2013 Edge engine, only 27K miles. As long as the compression ratio is the same I am going to jump on that. Thanks, George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted September 9, 2016 Report Share Posted September 9, 2016 2011-2014 Edge should be perfect! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doldonics Posted September 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2016 Thanks again Guys. I got a 2013 Engine, 27K miles. I got a 2012 Edge Trans, 22K miles. I also got the CV axles and the alternator. I am thinking about buying the front hubs as well. Anything else that comes to mind to replace while I am at it? The vehicle has 215K miles but is in great shape. Thanks, George p.s. My friend with a shop said that he can probably do it for (with me) me if I wait a month, so things are looking up 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted September 9, 2016 Report Share Posted September 9, 2016 NTrain2K: Engine specs as released don't tell the whole story. This is what comes of comparing specs at the superficial level, such as what I attached. If you want dropin results, you have to really narrow your search. Anyway, you should also consider having the suspension upgraded while the engine is being replaced. Shocks/struts & mounts, control arms, sway bar end links, sway bar bushings (if available), and wheel bearings. If reusing the radiator/fan assembly/condensor, those are also candidates for replacement, just because. Will make it easier to do it up front. Flush all fluids: coolant, transmission, brake etc. Start clean. Clean up and paint the engine bay and subframe, you can make the ground attachment points paint free later. Good time to check the underbody for rust and apply rust preventative. 3M sprayon product should be good enough. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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