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Intercooler - Sport


Nick Halstead

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This thread deserves a bump.

 

Just ordered.the UP Garrett core IC. For those ney sayers and fence riders, if you can’t research what the IAT differentials translate to regarding power,or cannot grasp the concept, I feel sorry for you.

 

For everyone that carried the ball here I thank you greatly!

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I was actually talking to the guy with the Intercooler...

I am also waiting for another chance at the track but with the traction issues I'm having I need a working engine mount first.

If your issue is with the RMM then your answer may be here:

 

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/23572-rear-motor-mount-rmm-2016-edge-sport/

Edited by snmjim
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Anyone that installed the UP have any trouble tapping the sensor and bolt? Did you use silicone on the bolt?

Thanks!

If your talking about the UP IC sensor then my answer is we've done 3 and they all were a non issue with no special accomadations.

 

However, note that you are working with aluminum therefore be gentle with how tight you go, it's only a sensor...;-)

Edited by snmjim
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OK.......Post UP IC install. Nobody that I could find did an install write up on this.........I could be blind or dense. Or both.

 

I should've in hind sight.

 

Either I go an IC that was slightly different than one for our edge sports, or everything was not an easy alignment bolt and go.

 

I'm assuming those that did this upgrade removed the "louvers" for the OE cooler?

 

my lower bolt holes were off enough that the hoses and pinch brackets had to be pulled hard to be able to get the bolts in and the hoses seated. Like the plastic hose sleeves could've been trimmed to make the hose reinstall easier. Anybody else with these issues?

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.........Also, if you removed the louvers, when you unplugged the sensor for the louvers did it throw a code or give you a check engine light?

THANKS!

 

I only removed the louvers that were over the FMIC and kept the louvers that are in front of the radiator. There have been no codes or check engine lights. The sensor is still in place plugged in and the louvers over the radiator still work as original .

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OK.......Post UP IC install. Nobody that I could find did an install write up on this.........I could be blind or dense. Or both.

 

I should've in hind sight.

 

Either I go an IC that was slightly different than one for our edge sports, or everything was not an easy alignment bolt and go.

 

I'm assuming those that did this upgrade removed the "louvers" for the OE cooler?

 

my lower bolt holes were off enough that the hoses and pinch brackets had to be pulled hard to be able to get the bolts in and the hoses seated. Like the plastic hose sleeves could've been trimmed to make the hose reinstall easier. Anybody else with these issues?

 

Brother-In-Arms

 

Sorry it has taken me long after the fact to provide you with input but National Security keeps us busy... :salute:

 

You are totally correct that a DIY write up wasn't done by the person tasked to do it.

 

However, if you would thoroughly read this entire topic string you would hopefully come to notice that the required Info is there especially in posts #95, 96 & 97.

 

We did what we could to make up for the ball being dropped by providing enough Info to get the average gear head through this.

We figured that if a picture is worth a thousand words then these Pics would equate short of a DIY write up... :hat_tip:

Edited by snmjim
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Swiss cheese memory. It didn’t help that when I read this thread I wasn’t logged in,hence the images didn’t get processed with the read. I just looked at the pix. Would’ve helped some had I remembered to refer back. Getting old is a bitch.

I see in the photo of the hose connection you had the same problem not getting a complete coverage on the neck. You were smart enough to use better clamps. I took the language literally that you could use all OE clamps and bolts. So I manhandled the brackets to leverage the hose further down the neck. Since there is no stress there I’m not worried about anything breaking. Or pulling the hose loose.

I didn’t bother putting that thin “shield” piece back on. Did you actually get it to bolt back up Jim? And did your radiator lovers clear the top of the IC tank?

Lastly, did you remove the IC louvers? And if so when you unplugged them did/are you throwing a code or getting a check engine light?

 

THANKS again y’all!

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On a small note, an aftermarket intercooler will finally be available en masse for the Taurus SHO (and brethren transverse kind) by the end of this year. Has been a LONG time coming.

 

I note this especially because it is amazing that the Gen 2 Sport, around for <4 years, custom intercooler was driven to fruition in such a short period of time by dedicated enthusiasts. The SHO on the other hand has been around 9 years now! Plus custom turbos, swaybars, motor mounts and what not. WOW!

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Swiss cheese memory. It didn’t help that when I read this thread I wasn’t logged in,hence the images didn’t get processed with the read. I just looked at the pix. Would’ve helped some had I remembered to refer back. Getting old is a bitch.

I see in the photo of the hose connection you had the same problem not getting a complete coverage on the neck. You were smart enough to use better clamps. I took the language literally that you could use all OE clamps and bolts. So I manhandled the brackets to leverage the hose further down the neck. Since there is no stress there I’m not worried about anything breaking. Or pulling the hose loose.

I didn’t bother putting that thin “shield” piece back on. Did you actually get it to bolt back up Jim? And did your radiator lovers clear the top of the IC tank?

Lastly, did you remove the IC louvers? And if so when you unplugged them did/are you throwing a code or getting a check engine light?

 

THANKS again y’all!

 

Nothing new here on the getting old issue...lol... :2thumbs:

 

FYI,

 

There's nothing wrong with the IC boost tube connection point, that's the way it was designed with a slight angle to accommodate attaching the boost tubes however, not perfect but meets the requirements for attachment and sealing with the boost tubes.

 

Any performance forced induction system boost tubes should be using quality clamps, not hose clamps, unless you like playing with boost leaks... :doh:

 

On "taking the language literally that you could use all OE clamps and bolts" you can however the stock boost tube clamps are lame.

 

On "I didn’t bother putting that thin “shield” piece back on", what shield are you referring to?

 

Everything bolted up nicely for all 3 we did with the exception of cutting a notch into the cooling table cross member so the IC seated where it's designed to be and having to man handle the driver side of the IC to thread in the IC attachment bolt.

 

As for the radiator louvers aka AGS = Automatic Grill Shutters...as you can see in the Pics we totally removed the IC part of the AGS system and left the radiator section in tacked and totally functional, so no codes.

 

However, when we R&D the AGS system initially, Ref http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/23105-intercooler-grill-ags-2016-sport/ , we found that it will throw an initial code but once you restart the car it will go away.

 

Since you've done the IC upgrade we also recommend you do this MOD http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/24279-intercooler-outletcold-pipe-upgrade-2015-2018-edge-sport/.

 

Note: you will not reap the full benefits of most performance MODs until you have your car tuned afterwards... :yahoo::clapping::ford:

 

Hopefully this helped to clarify... :hat_tip:

Edited by snmjim
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Thanks Jim.

The shield I was referring to is that thin composite material like the others that act as belly shields. It covers the bottom of the IC. It looks like you just notched it?

Let me start off with you are most welcome!

A little show of appreciation goes a long way...;-)

 

Not sure we're talking about the same thing but if it's the rigid fabric panel that remains under the IC we just folded it back and installed the chin panel over top of it. However, after multiple removals of the front we saw no value added after the IC Mod and elected to trim it even with the bottom.

 

To date there has been no problems with that decision.

Edited by snmjim
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....I guess you need to be aware of the grill shudder alignment. Not sure how thats throwing a code but back apart it comes. P059F if anyone wants to know.

Post #97 of this topic string answers your questions using Pics.

 

The short of it...alignment is not the issue, it lines itself up when reinstalled as it was. You must remove the IC section of the AGS but leave the actuation fork on but cut the part of the actuation fork off that would have actuated the, now gone, IC portion of the AGS shutters and leave the AGS harness plugged in to actuate the radiator shutters...;-)

Edited by snmjim
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