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2016 Edge SEL - Would Sport headlights fit?


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Just got a new edge coming from a '14 f150 that had HIDs and it's driving me nuts that I don't have them anymore.

 

I see a lot of people retrofitting and what not, but I have yet to see this question. The '16 sport has HIDs...it appears to be the exact same, would this be an easy swap if I found a set?

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Not really, the sports HIDs function as the high and low beam and the bulb (D3S) is located in the projector housing, the DRL is in the reflector and is an H15.

Any non-HID edge has the low beam and drl in the projector housing (bulb: H11LL) , and the high beam is in the reflector housing (bulb is 9005LL)

So if you were to put the D3S into the regular projector it would not have the low/high beam cut off & they would be running all the time as your DRL

 

However, you could always get an H11 HID kit and wire that up, just make sure to adjust the headlamps afterwards.

If you could, check the back of the bulb that is in the projector housing and see what the wattage is, it could be a dual wattage bulb in which case a HID upgrade kit may not work.

 

Other info: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/19941-intro-2015-edge-sport-tuxedo-black/page-2?do=findComment&comment=155817

Edited by Beezz
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Sorry it seems you did answer but I'm still confused I suppose. I've done a ton of mods to cars in past, never messed with lighting besides basic bulb swaps for things like map lighting, dome, license plates.

 

How do these kits work? Are they reliable? Anything not look stock when completed? Am I going to blind people.

 

Tha ks

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Thanks for all the info! I may have worded my question incorrectly, I apologize.

 

I meant literally swapping the entire headlight assembly out and putting in a sport headlight. Not just a bulb swap. If that makes a bit more sense?

No worries, it just seemed like a bulb swap.

LOL thats going to be expensive, but if you can find an entire assembly at a reasonable price it should be very easy, you will probably have to ask the dealer to reprogram the lighting module so that it knows there is a different configuration(high/low beam). Also the bumper has to come off to remove the headlamp housing.

 

 

Sorry it seems you did answer but I'm still confused I suppose. I've done a ton of mods to cars in past, never messed with lighting besides basic bulb swaps for things like map lighting, dome, license plates.

 

How do these kits work? Are they reliable? Anything not look stock when completed? Am I going to blind people.

 

Tha ks

No worries, lighting mods are usually the most annoying, wiring things in general is annoying. With that said, the kits are relatively straight forward, if you go on youtube search : How To Install an HID Headlight Kit -EricTheCarGuy, you'll have a better idea about them.

 

The kit should look stock from the outside because there is already a projector housing. Under the hood it will look very different, there will be new wiring, ballasts for each side, and possibly holes in the back of the housing for the new wires. They are reliable as long as you get them from a good brand ( just look at the reviews of any product).

 

The blinding I'm not sure about, since the halogen projectors don't have a shutter to cut off the beam, there is a chance that you could blind others.

The tricky part is how the low beam and the DRL are in the projector housing, since they come from the same bulb that means that if you were to upgrade to a HID kit, the HIDs would be running during the daytime aswell. If you could, check the back of the bulb that is in the projector slot and see what is written on it, that will give you a better idea if an upgrade is possible. If it says something like 15W/55W then that means it is a dual power bulb and it makes things trickier.

 

Also since the high beam on the non HID edges is in the reflector if you were to upgrade the projector bulb to a HID, whenever you turn on the high beam it might look weird. The reflector bulb cannot be changed into a HID because it would blind others.

 

So basically, if you could post a picture of the bulbs in the housing right now, and possibly take pictures of each lighting mode someone might be able to recommend something for you.

Edited by Beezz
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Awesome, after work today I'll look at what I have / check out the video you posted. I appreciate the willingness to help! Much better than some other vehicle forums I'd been on in the past.

 

As far as DRL, I don't have them enabled I'm in the US with my truck I was able to have a tech hook up and enable the, but they were just my turn signals that stayed on.

 

I wouldn't want to enable them on the Edge if it's using my actual headlights. I have the "signature lights" those are always on. Good enough for me.

 

If they light ouput is anywhere near as good as my actual HIDs on truck were I basically never needed my brights. But I understand what you mean about them possibly looking off.

 

My main concerns (which you addressed) were blinding other motorists, ease on install, and ability to maintain a stock look.

 

I'll follow up later today!

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Halogen bulbs are going to give you more usable light in a halogen setup. Putting PNP HID in will blind oncoming traffic also with the glare. Aiming your lights lower to try and fix this, does not fix it. It just gives the driver even less usable light to drive with

If this is true than what is best option for a different color of light? I can't stand the yellow'd output of my headlights. My main goal is usable light at more of a cooler "white" temperature. Similar to the color of HIDs

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I don't claim to know anything really about how the HIDs work or their requirements (someone here probably does), but I do have them on my sport - and I think there may be a little more to them than a housing swap and reprogram. The HIDs - at least on my sport - come with an 'auto highbeam' feature that turns the high-beams on automatically when conditions are dark enough. I am sure that there is a photo sensor controlling this embedded somewhere - but I have no idea where. To get full functionality out of it there may be more to it than housing and software, although that would probably get you at least manual control of high beam function. The question would be if an error of some kind would be generated after a reprogramming to the sport system where there is a call to a sensor that isn't installed.

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#7

That is true to an extent, most halogens only output ~1500 lumens per bulb, where as a HID bulb can output 3000 + lumens. As long as the HID is being put into a projector housing and not a reflector housing it should be much better than a stock halogen and safe. It should be safe to assume that ford used the same housing for all the NA edges, the projector portion should be the same on a factory non HID / HID. However, if they are not then Nick is right, a HID kit in a halogen projector will be useless and unsafe. Aiming the lights lower isnt the way to fix the beam pattern, the only way to do so is to have the beam physically blocked in the housing, like the factory HIDs do. Some HID kits have protectors on the bulb to cut off the light from being projected, so they should work similar to the shutter in the factory housing.

 

#8

If you wanted to get cooler coloured lights you could check out the higher end halogens: http://www.osram.com/osram_com/products/lamps/vehicle-and-bicycle-lighting/cars/halogen-headlight-lamps-for-cars/index.jsp OR http://amzn.to/2b6qvPs

But all of them have an output of ~1500 lumens, so you'll be getting the same usable light, regardless the colour. But in all honesty, anything that says its 'blue' is pretty much useless and will be fairly glaring.

Another note, the usable light from a HID bulb basically is at is peak in the 4000-6000K range, any higher and the lights just become bluer and useless.

The only way to see if something is going to be better is to try it out, just buy from a company that accepts returns with no conditions.

 

#9

Yeah, there is a light sensor right below the front windshield in front of the speaker in the center, this is probably used for the auto lamps and auto highbeams.

The auto highbeam probably also uses the camera on the mirror to recognize oncoming vehicles. This sensor has to be in all the edges that have auto lamps, so in that case the auto highbeam system might work if the settings are programmed correctly. But also the auto highbeam feature can be turned off, so in that case if the sensor isnt installed then there would be no call to it. Side note, how do you like the auto highbeams, do they ever act weird?

 

something i just realized is, the wiring harness might not even have the correct wiring for a hid housing vs the halogen housing, so a swap might not be compatible

Edited by Beezz
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Man, I don't know why but headlight retrofits and such is confusing to me. I've painted entire dashes in my younger years. Hooked up more stereos than I can remember, tinted windows, ambient lighting etc etc...

 

Headlights and their jargon always throw me for a loop. I wish there was one answer and that was just the way it's done!

 

I ended up looking and mine say a single number of 55w on them.

Edited by Tjm623
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Man, I don't know why but headlight retrofits and such is confusing to me. I've painted entire dashes in my younger years. Hooked up more stereos than I can remember, tinted windows, ambient lighting etc etc...

 

Headlights and their jargon always throw me for a loop. I wish there was one answer and that was just the way it's done!

 

I ended up looking and mine say a single number of 55w on them.

Exterior lighting is the most annoying modification ever.

Since your bulbs just say 55W a retrofit may work.

 

I'm gonna bite the bullet and try those out for $108 shipped it's not the worst money spent

 

And thats great, let us know how it goes. Someone had to be the guinea pig B)

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It shouldn't as long as you dont have to splice into factory wiring, or cut anything in the headlamp housing. Basically if you can reverse the install process and leave no trace you'll be fine. The rubber boots that seal the housing will have to be cut into, but those are easy to replace if you ever need to.

 

Here is an install vid by Dan at daytimebrights

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#9

Yeah, there is a light sensor right below the front windshield in front of the speaker in the center, this is probably used for the auto lamps and auto highbeams.

The auto highbeam probably also uses the camera on the mirror to recognize oncoming vehicles. This sensor has to be in all the edges that have auto lamps, so in that case the auto highbeam system might work if the settings are programmed correctly. But also the auto highbeam feature can be turned off, so in that case if the sensor isnt installed then there would be no call to it. Side note, how do you like the auto highbeams, do they ever act weird?

 

something i just realized is, the wiring harness might not even have the correct wiring for a hid housing vs the halogen housing, so a swap might not be compatible

 

 

I like the feature - most of the time - but there are situations where it can act weird. On the way to Virginia we passed through some construction zones where the road had a concrete divider and some pylons set up on top that created a shutter effect with oncoming trucks. The flashing of the lights with oncoming traffic made it hard for the system to decide what it was supposed to do. I'd say it works as intended around 95% of the time or more.

 

As far as the sensors go - I'm not sure if the day/night photo cell is what is used to trip the high beams or not. My guess would be - not. That sensor seems to have a higher threshold to activate. When in high beam (auto-on) mode - there is very, very little light needed to turn the beams down to low. I suppose this is good from the standpoint of being considerate to others - but it sure seems like an entirely different level of sensitivity to me.

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Well still waiting, it's been 4 days since I placed my order haven't heard anything besides an auto confirmation that I ordered something.

 

Emailed them yesterday asking for follow up, still haven't heard anything. Not to happy as for $18 shipping you'd think I'd have my products in less than 5 days!

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