candurin Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 So, this was a fun surprise. Go to leave the house tonight and headlights won't come on. Not in auto, not in headlight on. Checked fuses 16 and 17 (maybe 18?) for L/r headlamps and both are good. My morimotos relays are lit up green, so those are ok. Checked in-line fuse for hard wire HID harness and that's ok. I can hear something clicking properly when I change the headlight switch and the shutters work when I click on the highbeams (no light, of course). Any troubleshooting steps would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 (edited) The 3 fuses in the passenger compartment 16 10A Low beam headlamps (right)17 10A Low beam headlamps (left)18 10A Keypad illumination, Brake shiftinterlock (BSI), Start button LED,Passive anti-theft system (PATS),Powertrain control module (PCM)wake-up, 2nd row power enable If HID had been OEM, fuses 57 and 78 in the engine compartment would have been used. If all electrical connections are working correctly (including to the battery), the usual culprits are the headlamp switch or the BCM. FSM indicates possible short to ground detected by BCM. 2012 Ford Edge Headlamps One or More Low-High Beams Inoperative.pdf Edited June 25, 2016 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candurin Posted June 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 (edited) All fixed! Allow me to walk you through this: 1. Realize when your two miles away from your house at 10:30pm last night that you have no headlights 2. be glad your diode dynamic switchbacks are bright enough illuminate the sides of the road 3. be glad your only on 25mph streets with lots of streetlights 4. go to bed angry 5. wake up and be glad that Perf wakes up early as sin and has access to every service manual 6. pull and visually check all related fuses - pass 7. google "check fuses with a multimeter" 8. walk pass bar in my den and contemplate a drink at 7:45am - wife somewhat approves 9. grab my multimeter and all fuses pass continuity check - wow! a function on a meter I have never used before (still have no idea what it really means) - pass 10. use Perf's checklist and confirm voltage on the headlight connection - first two pinpoint tests pass (12.25V) 11. start googling cost of headlight switch ($48 from levittown ford BTW) 12. walk past bar again and stare at my 18 yr old macallan 13. call ford and ask if they can squeeze me in for an emergency diagnostic check (now I am thinking the SJB/BCM needs a reset due to new battery) 14. drop a few f-bombs outside of earshot from wife and kids 15. go into attic above garage and find my OEM 9012 bulbs 16. plug them in and laugh as they light up immediately 17. really start to trace and follow all wiring in my TRS morimoto HID kit. 18. Finally come to the realization that I forgot to plug the black wire back to my battery (yup, it was sitting right behind the new battery)!!! 19. Grab my socket wrench, put it back on the negative accessory terminal and watch my headlights fire right up 20. cancel the ford service request 21. stare at that damn macallan again (I'll revisit this again tonight) 22. decide to go share in my misery with the forum 23. come to the conclusion that the past hour or so of my hilarious diagnostic abilities would make a fantastic MercyGirl production video I should mention that I am a scientist. Automotive repair and tinkering is just a hobby of mine. But, I now know what the damn Omega symbol on my multimeter is for (albeit, I still have no idea why there is 6 varying ranges nor what it really is telling me). I also learned how to troubleshoot a failing battery and a functional alternator). Happy Saturday folks. Edited June 25, 2016 by candurin 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 Great read Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWizard Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 Very enjoyable read. Been there, done that and can sympathize with the frustration. The Omega Ω symbol represents ohms (resistance). It can be used for continuity - zero ohms means there is no resistance between the two probes (therefore there is continuity between them). There are different ranges so that you can measure resistance of single ohms, hundreds of ohms, thousands of ohms, etc. with greater accuracy. Most digital multimeters also have a separate continuity setting. It is really just an ohmmeter except that it beeps when there is continuity to simplify testing without having to look at the meter reading. A fuse can look good even though it is blown so a continuity test is the most reliable way to determine if a fuse is good - without continuity, no current can flow through the fuse so it is blown. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 Time for number 8, you earned it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candurin Posted June 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 Wizard, you're a scholar and a saint... I'm way past #8. Already a few nitro IPAs into my day (best Sam Adams beer, ever). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted July 23, 2016 Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 All fixed! Allow me to walk you through this: 1. Realize when your two miles away from your house at 10:30pm last night that you have no headlights 2. be glad your diode dynamic switchbacks are bright enough illuminate the sides of the road 3. be glad your only on 25mph streets with lots of streetlights 4. go to bed angry 5. wake up and be glad that Perf wakes up early as sin and has access to every service manual 6. pull and visually check all related fuses - pass 7. google "check fuses with a multimeter" 8. walk pass bar in my den and contemplate a drink at 7:45am - wife somewhat approves 9. grab my multimeter and all fuses pass continuity check - wow! a function on a meter I have never used before (still have no idea what it really means) - pass 10. use Perf's checklist and confirm voltage on the headlight connection - first two pinpoint tests pass (12.25V) 11. start googling cost of headlight switch ($48 from levittown ford BTW) 12. walk past bar again and stare at my 18 yr old macallan 13. call ford and ask if they can squeeze me in for an emergency diagnostic check (now I am thinking the SJB/BCM needs a reset due to new battery) 14. drop a few f-bombs outside of earshot from wife and kids 15. go into attic above garage and find my OEM 9012 bulbs 16. plug them in and laugh as they light up immediately 17. really start to trace and follow all wiring in my TRS morimoto HID kit. 18. Finally come to the realization that I forgot to plug the black wire back to my battery (yup, it was sitting right behind the new battery)!!! 19. Grab my socket wrench, put it back on the negative accessory terminal and watch my headlights fire right up 20. cancel the ford service request 21. stare at that damn macallan again (I'll revisit this again tonight) 22. decide to go share in my misery with the forum 23. come to the conclusion that the past hour or so of my hilarious diagnostic abilities would make a fantastic MercyGirl production video I should mention that I am a scientist. Automotive repair and tinkering is just a hobby of mine. But, I now know what the damn Omega symbol on my multimeter is for (albeit, I still have no idea why there is 6 varying ranges nor what it really is telling me). I also learned how to troubleshoot a failing battery and a functional alternator). Happy Saturday folks. MercyGirl says go for it! Car repair is fun!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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