2007 SEL Transmission Issue(s)

[Brucifer]

136k, 2WD, recent plugs and 'flush and flash'.

 

Always had issue with reverse. There is a 2-3 second delay going from D to R. Other times there may be more of a thump going into reverse.

Used to have more of an issue with 3rd -> 4th slipping, but after flush and flash, it's a rare, rare occurrence.

 

Most recent issue was in forward gears: stopped at a store to ask when they closed. Putting it back into D, engine spun up with no engagement, then a loud clunk. Moved a bit and it was continuing to do the same. I shifted back into Neutral after the clunk and then back into Drive with the same event. Finally turned the car off for about 5 seconds and restarted. Shifted with no issue (other than Reverse lag as normal when I got home less than a mile away).

 

MAIN issue is that the wife was with me when this happened (which might of caused a bit of panic shifting on my part). I can roll with certain hiccups that modern cars may have, but I wasn't looking forward to a third degree of why the car was acting up. Luckily, she hasn't said anything more about it, but I'm trying to get all the info I can in case it happens again.

 

I've read through Zazzy's replacement of the TSS & OSS sensors and the next time I'm in that part of town, I'll see what a quote is to replace them (might as well throw a TR sensor in there as well..). Also remember a thread about some internal mechanical solenoids that have me a little nervous, but I forget where that one was listed. I think I posted in the thread, so it might be somewhat easy to find (found it - it dealt with a 2008 AWD. Not sure if it relates). Never got any codes from the local shop to the dealership.

 

 

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Definitely sounds like a TSS/OSS replacement could help. The fact that a restart seemed to "cure" the symptoms gives it some weight.

[macbwt]

Sounds like you are tearing into the transmission this weekend and replacing the TSS and OSS sensors. Classic symptoms of failure.

[Brucifer]

Sounds like you are tearing into the transmission this weekend and replacing the TSS and OSS sensors. Classic symptoms of failure.

Not my idea of fun.

 

Actually it is, but I'm always scared of the learning curve, so I stopped by the dealership to see what they would charge. $650 out the door. Probably schedule them for next week. Is there anything else worth replacing as long as everything is opened up?

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

I suppose you could have the valve body examined/cleaned out while the sensors are being done. You just did the trans fluid recently, right? Have it completely replaced if not.

[Brucifer]

Might want to get a mod to move this to the correct section. May get more visibility.

 

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/forum/51-transaxle-fwd/

I thought there was a transaxle section, but I must of not scrolled down enough or something. I had already Googled TSS and OSS, and all signs were pointing to the replacement, but I guess I wanted a second (third, fourth, fifth...) opinion. I was hoping to put in a tow hitch, but I really don't need that till next year.

 

If the mods want to move this, that's fine.

 

 

I suppose you could have the valve body examined/cleaned out while the sensors are being done. You just did the trans fluid recently, right? Have it completely replaced if not.

 

 

 

 

I would like to think that the tech gives the VB a once over while it's out, but it may not hurt to ask. Fluid was cleaned and flushed.

[Brucifer]

I remember someone talking about the TR sensor and I found this:

 

http://www.fordflex.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=14134

 

Is it the same tranny and something to think about replacing?

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

In a 2009 SEL, yes, it should be (6F50). Only the EB-powered Flex gets the 6F55. The EB Flex arrived in the 2010 MY.

 

The only difference in procedure would have been how the main control cover is removed (very first step). Rest is exactly the same.

 

Not sure if it is worth replacing, but if it's little extra cost, why not

[Brucifer]

What about the parking purl? Have a fair amount of rollback when parked on an incline?

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Have that as well, but the brake engagement sequence has made a major difference. IIRC (now that I do it automatically LOL), shift into Neutral, engage parking brake while foot is still on brake pedal, then shift into Park. Reverse steps when getting ready to go. All with engine running of course.

 

Hard to find an R&R mention in the FSM, still looking.

 

A handy read on how the pawl functions, for those curious:

http://myautomatictransmission.com/transmission-parking-pawl.htm

[Brucifer]

Have that as well, but the brake engagement sequence has made a major difference. IIRC (now that I do it automatically LOL), shift into Neutral, engage parking brake while foot is still on brake pedal, then shift into Park. Reverse steps when getting ready to go. All with engine running of course.

 

Hard to find an R&R mention in the FSM, still looking.

 

A handy read on how the pawl functions, for those curious:

http://myautomatictransmission.com/transmission-parking-pawl.htm

Section 301-01-216 mentions taking care with removing the TR as to not screw up with the pawl, cuz if you do, it's a R&R on the whole transaxle.

[Brucifer]

Dropped the Edge off last night at the dealer. Was just going to do a R&R on the TSS and OSS, maybe even the TR, but decided to do the diagnostic route first instead.

 

Came back with nothing. No codes and it shifted fine for the tech.

 

They didn't do the harness testing with the multi-meter. If I feel ambitious, I might tackle that later.

 

For now, it's "Go Until You Blow".

[macbwt]

Won't show anything hard as far as code until complete failure.

[EDST777]

Sounds like you are tearing into the transmission this weekend and replacing the TSS and OSS sensors. Classic symptoms of failure.

tell why these sensors so often break, at ford it is an expendable material?)

[EDST777]

Won't show anything hard as far as code until complete failure.

when I had such problems, the mistake really could be fixed not from the first

[Brucifer]

The latest in the surging saga is I've developed a rather persistent slip between 3 and 4. Started yesterday after a deluge and I had to drive through roughly bottom-of-the-rim water. Wasn't able to run through the gears before heading through the water.

 

For those keeping score:

1. Several fluid changes (plus power cleaning)

2. Transmission/TCU flash from Dealership.

3. TSS/OSS replacement.

4. 150k on the clock.

 

Could this be something along the lines of electrical? A socket/fitting/connector with some corrosion underneath? I plan on looking over the electrical book as to what harness parts go where to see if something got splashed, but I wanted to run it past you guys first: Can I have a slippage issue from an electrical source?

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Certainly you can, for example if the MAF sensor is not doing its' job (not to oversimplify). Then the engine does not have the correct data to command the right action at the right time. I had to replace the MAF sensor on my Edge recently. Cleaning the heck out of the OEM sensor did not restore any performance. I was also getting errant shifting, along with some loss in throttle response.

 

There are also adaptive tables in the TCM (trans control module) that may benefit from clearing. This can be done with IDS or pro level scan tools. Apparently this did not work for you, sadly.

 

When you did the TSS/OSS, did you check the valve body to make sure it was clean/undamaged? Seeing more & more of those needing to be serviced. How about the solenoid body assembly?

 

If the fluid has remained clean throughout, we can likely rule out actual clutch/gear damage.

[macbwt]

Thinking out loud. 2007's are prone to PCM issues. Might want to take it out send it in for a repair. If it is functioning all you would be out is the shipping.

[Brucifer]

WWWPerfA_ZN0W,

 

I had MAF issues with my BMW. Had similar shifting issues, so I know about the engine/transmission communication issues. I have cleaned the MAF before, can't say if there was an improvement - just something I did as maintenance. I kinda wish it is the MAF since that's a one-shot simple fix. The Dealership did the TSS/OSS, so I didn't see any of the insides, but I'm guessing everything was in good shape.

 

macbwt,

 

Something I forgot to add to the list is that I did the plugs when at 130k. Dug through my posts to see that they had the blue paint dot of OEM and gapped out at .74. Might be a slow melt on the PCM which might be the reason that no one has been able to pull a code. I think I did mention somewhere that after the TSS/OSS change, I took the battery leads off and jumped them together for 10 minutes. Had major shift bumps for a couple of miles after that which was making me think it was more of an electrical issue than "mechanical" (TSS/OSS).

 

Do not relish the thought of throwing another $750 at this ghost (circuit board medic + new coils). Maybe $800-ish once you factor in all the gaskets and such to be able to get all the coil packs out. It just about turns into a plug swap at that stage since I might as well pick up the 20k miles I've put on it. Might take it to AutoZone today for a reading just for giggles. Have to run by Home depot today, so I might stop by the Dealership to see what cost they have on coils. If you buy CircuitBoardMedics coils and plugs, they throw on another year of warranty on the board. Their add-on is $425 which is about $71 a coil. Might give CBM a call next week to see if they offer a "Yes, it was bad" answer when you send your PCM in.

 

Just looking for the smoking gun.....

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Def call up circuitboardmedics first. Your Edge will be out of commission as a result for a few days, so you will need an alternate ride in the meantime.

 

TBH, I doubt the dealership checked the valve body/SBA. But I hope they did. Can always ask LOL.

[Brucifer]

I'm leaning towards replacing the coils, then the PCM. IF my PCM is wonky (because of bad coils), it shouldn't mess with my new coils, right? What is the lifespan of a coil? Don't really have the funds to swap everything out at once and I don't need a chicken-and-egg path of destruction. I really, really hate just throwing parts at this, but no one can give me codes as to what is wrong (even almighty AutoZone). Once I have the coils in place, I can send out the PCM.

Edited July 2, 2017 by Brucifer

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Nope, once the PCM is wonky, you have to fix both the PCM AND the coils. No 2 ways about it. Or you are going to ruin the new coils pretty quickly coz the PCM is malfunctioning. Coils in Gen 1.5 seem to last a good long time, I have no idea what the difference is ... I will have to look at the wiring diagrams.

 

Theoretically, with 60K plug changes, the coils should last in Gen 1 also forever, practically. Same with fuel injectors & using good fuel/periodic (but not overdoing) cleaners.

 

Gotta remember, if the brain gets affected, what it tells you won't be reliable, IF it tells you anything. This used to happen on the Gen 1/2 SHOs all the time. So no codes is not a reliable indicator in this instance.

 

I suppose you could check coil resistance to gauge if there is an issue in this area. But no one has proven this as a diagnostic yet.

 

Sorry I do not have a better answer for you. But both coils and PCM need to be validated/fixed/replaced.

[Brucifer]

OK.

 

Take the PCM out, get it in the mail, swap the coils and when the fixed PCM comes back, Bob's your uncle. I was just trying to break the costs up over time.

 

It won't be until next couple of weeks with the Hoilday and such. Want everything in place before shipping it out.

 

 

Of course, it's the MAF after all is said and done.......

[macbwt]

OK.

 

Take the PCM out, get it in the mail, swap the coils and when the fixed PCM comes back, Bob's your uncle. I was just trying to break the costs up over time.

 

It won't be until next couple of weeks with the Hoilday and such. Want everything in place before shipping it out.

 

 

Of course, it's the MAF after all is said and done.......

Coil paks are only about 150 bucks get six MC coils with new boots, Gaskets too with spark plugs. Great deal

[Brucifer]

Coil paks are only about 150 bucks get six MC coils with new boots, Gaskets too with spark plugs. Great deal

HUSH!

 

I was told this is double-secret probation knowledge. The partsman at the Dealer had no clue as to the number I gave him. He did look up a coil kit for $165. He'll let me know if it comes with all the goodies tomorrow morning. Tad cheaper other places, but it never hurts to have FoMoCo people on your side.

 

Talked to Circuit Medics today. If I send the PCM in, I need to add a note saying to test first. If it's all Kosher, it's $125 and sent back to me. If not, it's the standard $299 repair cost. Either way I'll have new coils that will probably out live the car. I'm hoping that new coils might add quantum of performance; more for MPG than anything else.

 

Ultimately, I just hope the slippage goes away. I keep telling myself that at least I'm replacing known issues with this year Edge and it's not the same as throwing darts. The last thing I can think of is the MAF (other than physical issues inside the tranny). but I'll burn that bridge when I come to it. There was one posting out there about Fords and coils and such and there was the theory that a low battery can cause running issues and Ford did say that my battery could be replaced, but this has been ongoing since I've had the vehicle (when the battery was supposedly new).