New Car Prep

[PrinzII]

I wrote this for a Maxima forum I moderate and thought I'd share this with you guys.

 

One of the most frequently asked questions in my detailing experience is whether or not it is proper to detail a new car. I used to share the common thought that detailing a new car was nonsensical.

 

But in all honesty, the answer to that question would be a resounding yes. The main reason for this is that cars are assaulted by different things in transit and storage. You have items such as rail dust (small specks of metal that come off of train wheels and bond to a car's finish), industrial fallout (depends on the area), bird droppings, fruit/tree sap....to name a few.

 

This thread is designed to answer the questions about detailing new cars and outline a procedure that will give you a shiny vehicle for years to come.

 

The first part of the procedure is NEVER allow the dealer to detail your new car. Many times, dealers will swirl the heck out of a finish because they are using too aggressive a pad or polish (sometimes both).

[PrinzII]

Items needed for the initial detail

 

a) 2 Buckets:

The reason I suggest using 2 buckets is to reduce swirl marks and/or spiderwebbing. You fill one bucket up with car wash shampoo and water and the other with just plain water. After washing an area with the shampoo, take the mitt and put it in the bucket with the clear water so that all of the dirt particles will sink to the bottom of the rinse bucket and your mitt will be clean for the next application of the car wash shampoo.

 

Chenille Wash Mitts (One for the lower body, One for wheels/fenderwells, One for upper body).

The reason for this is also to prevent swirls. The lower regions of the car will have more dirt and tar than the upper regions. It takes one dirt particle to get caught and you can easily have scratches/swirls on your car.

 

c) Car Wash Shampoo (I personally use Meguiar's Gold Class)

 

d) Clay Bar

 

e) Carnuba wax (e.g. Meguiar's #26, P21S, S100)

 

f) Polymer Sealant (e.g. Klasse, Blackfire, Zaino)

Most polymers have a cleaner to allow for easier bonding of the sealant glaze. Bear in mind, these will last up to 6 months or more dependent on environment.

[PrinzII]

Items needed for the initial interior treatment

 

a) Vacuum cleaner: I personally have a shop vac I paid $32 bucks for and it's good for general vacuuming of vehicles.

 

Terrycloth wax applicators: Those are excellent when applying leather cleaner and conditioner as well as protectants.

 

c) Protectant: If you get one, make sure it has a high UV rating to protect the vinyl on the dash. I recommend Lexol's Vinylex or 303 for that purpose. I also may use the Vinylex or 303 to treat the tires as well.

 

d) (For Leather Interiors Only) Get a good leather cleaner and conditioner. Recommendations are Lexol, Zaino, Pinnacle, Einszett and Leatherique.

 

e) Microfiber Towels or newspaper for glass cleaning. You can get Microfibers at Wal-Mart for a reasonable price or order from the links I have listed above.

 

f) Glass Cleaner: I try to stay away from ammoniated glass cleaners because of tinted windows. Ammonia tends to interact with the mylar in a negative way by ruining the coloration and (sometimes) the material itself. Recommendations: Eagle One 20/20, Stoners Invisible Glass, Sprayway.

 

g) Plexus Plastic Polish. Use that for the gauge windows and the radio windows. I also recommend that if you have a wood dash kit.