HackerF15E Posted July 29, 2013 Report Share Posted July 29, 2013 (edited) Ok. Will be interesting to compare to the technique recommended here: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12917-2009-edge-sel-awd-transmission-plan/ In my opinion, it is better to use the technique in the video. All the other thread recommends is a series of drain-and-fills, with starting the car up and running it through the gears (to circulate the fluid) between drain-and-fills. There's certainly nothing wrong with that, but IMHO it wastes ATF and is not as "clean" of a changeover. Essentially it is repeatedly diluting dirty fluid with clean fluid, with the overall solution getting less and less dirty every time new fluid is added. By disconnecting the lines to the cooler, you are mixing a lot less of the "old" and "new" ATF (because the "old" fluid is not returning into the system at all), and that makes it a cleaner change with comparatively less fluid. Think about it...how many times do you have to dilute a glass of muddy water to make it clean? The reality is, though, that any replacement of fluid with clean fluid will help. Both techniques will work, it is just a question of how clean and how much fluid it takes. Edited July 29, 2013 by HackerF15E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HackerF15E Posted July 29, 2013 Report Share Posted July 29, 2013 (edited) Here's the schematic of the cooler system; I'm not sure which is the supply line and which is the return line, I don't have my Edge in front of me to check. In the shop manual, the line on the driver's side (right side of the cooler in this picture) is labeled as the "return tube", and the line on the passenger side (left side in this pic) is labeled the "outlet tube". Not sure how to decipher that, as they both sound like the flow is out, heheh. Edited July 29, 2013 by HackerF15E 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted July 29, 2013 Report Share Posted July 29, 2013 Another option is to use two clean 5 gallon buckets and fill one with new fluid with a hose connected to the return line. Then just run the vehicle until the old fluid turns new (and don't let the new fluid run dry in the other bucket). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HackerF15E Posted July 29, 2013 Report Share Posted July 29, 2013 Yep, that'd work too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fellro Posted December 25, 2013 Report Share Posted December 25, 2013 There is no bottom pan, the drain plug is in the bottom of the transmission case itself. Just remove plug, let drain, re-install plug and fill up. The filter is not serviceable unless you drop the trans out and split the cases open.... it doesn't get changed under a normal service. When you drain it it's right at 5 quarts that comes out, refill with 5 quarts and it should be right at the full mark once warmed up. Repeat 2 more times, running for 3 minutes in between to flush all fluid out of the torque converter Is there an actual way to check the level? My mom's 12 Edge has developed what appears to be an axle seal leak, so I will want to be sure the level is correct once I get the seal changed. I do most all of my own work, and have for a long time. I am trained, but left the field. It is out of warranty already before that suggestion comes out. 125,000 miles on it already. Been a few little things that went during warranty, and one big one. The turbo gave out with about 4-6000 left in warranty, the power steering line was leaking at about 40,000, then one other thing I'm not remembering right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gimp Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 Recently changed my trans oil for the first time in 92,000 km But the result was that right away, trans felt like new and shifting was smoother. I had my transmission fluid changed at 51,000 miles last month. I absolutely agree that the shifting is much smoother now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mirage52 Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 This will be something I will do at 50K as well. I was doing drain and fills on my '05 Mariner and they were easy enough, hopefully it will be as easy on the '13 Edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Depiry Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Check owners Manual : LV for trans V for power steering Not the same 2010 imited Marty 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EDST777 Posted September 4, 2014 Report Share Posted September 4, 2014 Hello. Guys, I have problems with change of an automatic transmission fluid in an automatic transmission. Problem that wanted to change liquid by removal of a branch pipe going from a cooler of an automatic transmission fluid in an automatic transmission as it is told here on YouTube but when I hoisted the car on the hoist, I couldn't find entrance and output hoses! ! ! ! ! These hoses aren't found (are inaccessible) from below (from a bottom), and in general from below very much it isn't convenient to approach any hoses, even what it is possible to see. I could see two hoses which as I think, are hoses specified in drawing in figure 3. These hoses are fixed by plastic loose straps, or it seemed to me, what they plastic? Whether I reflected I can to return them back if I remove or these loose straps disposable? Maybe for removal of hoses it is necessary to remove a bumper? Somebody did liquid replacement with removal of hoses (without commixing of liquids) or all did liquid change by a way of partial replacement without removal of hoses (dumping - filled in - ignited - run of 3 minutes and so three times)? I ask to tell in more detail how to remove hoses and how hoses to fix when them you return into place? Or it is better not to remove hoses at all what not to have problems? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted September 4, 2014 Report Share Posted September 4, 2014 (edited) For doing the 3-time method, no hoses need to be removed, that's the whole point! Just remove the transmission drain plug, drain, reinstall plug. That's it! If you were FLUSHING the transmission (not necessarily recommended), then you'd have to deal with hoses & such. The 3-time method gets you pretty close to a 100% fluid replacement, which is what you want. It is recommended by a trustworthy Ford tech (thirdgenlxi). The location the plug is in a pic in the #19 post in this thread http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/2040-transmission-fluid-replace/?do=findComment&comment=97281 and explained in #20. Edited September 4, 2014 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 I have only changed my transmission fluid twice. 95 percent highway driving. Tranny is still good. The transaxle has had a wet area the entire life of the car. Most likely due to install problem that i read about. I never changed it because the leak is not bad enough to warrant spending the money on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pduzzi Posted August 29, 2015 Report Share Posted August 29, 2015 I have a 2013,Ford Edge, I changed my fluid with Amsoil Signature a Series fluid. It last 100,000 miles, so I don't have to worry about it!!! http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/automatic/signature-series-fuel-efficient-synthetic-automatic-transmission-fluid/?code=ATLQT-EA&zo=5040021 For motor oil http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-5w-20-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?code=ALMQT-EA&zo=5040021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 Well try this out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coronan Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 (edited) I Attempted the 2 bucket method. It does not work. The transmission fails to suction from the Transmission cooler hose. It will pump out old fluid. Here is my setup. Call me lazy but the bumper looked like to time consuming to remove to get to the trany cooler. So i went after it at # 3 in Hacker's drawing. Just a few screws to remove the fender liner. Its a silly 5.5mm. WTF Ford? Who uses a 5.5mm head screw??? Here's the schematic of the cooler system; I'm not sure which is the supply line and which is the return line, I don't have my Edge in front of me to check. In the shop manual, the line on the driver's side (right side of the cooler in this picture) is labeled as the "return tube", and the line on the passenger side (left side in this pic) is labeled the "outlet tube". Not sure how to decipher that, as they both sound like the flow is out, heheh. The pressure side is in the back. A ~ 0.625" OD hose fits in the hole and helps direct the mess into the pan. If i had to do this again I'd use a graduated bucket, so i know how much has been removed. This blue hose is connects to the hose going to the cooler. I submersed it in fluid but it failed to suction. A more elaborate method would be to run a longer hose to a elevated reservoir so it might gravity flow in. But That's more complicated and asking for a messy spill. The Transmission will dump its guts in just over a minute. Increased flow while in drive. With the GF at the Helm. We spent about 15 sec in park, 20 sec in Reverse, 30 sec in drive. Then the outflow got foamy. (cavitation) And we shut the engine off. I measured 6.5 liters in the pan. Added 7 liters via the dip stick. Ran another 20 sec in drive and 20sec In low. Then Clean red fluid was being discharged and we shut it off. About 3 more liters came out. That's 95%! No wasted fluid doing 6.5 liter fluid change 3 times. At $12 / liter thats an extra $70 saved. Edited January 4, 2016 by coronan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 Maybe you needed to prime the return line or elevate it so it gravity feeds back to the tranny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 I think I will stick to my decision to use the machine. Been working for me since 2010 so why change. Interesting seeing and watching what you folks are doing. Just a lot of time involved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coronan Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 Mac, What are you paying to have your transmission flushed? Are you getting full synthetic oil? How long does it take round trip? (Home > shop > home?) My method takes an hour. I didn't want to do it. I told the GF to schedule it 5000 miles ago, but she didn't, so I did it sunday night, while she made dinner. I changed the PTU oil while i had it in the garage, too. Does anyone else find the dip stick impossible to read? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted January 6, 2016 Report Share Posted January 6, 2016 I find both the engine oil & trans fluid dipsticks hard to extract cleanly from the tubes. Engine oil is easily readable, but the trans fluid one, not so much. Strong lighting highly recommended (maybe an LED headlamp?). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted January 9, 2016 Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 I assume your method and time includes going out to the parts store buying the MERCON LV fluid which is hard to find sometimes in enough quantities then driving back home. Then crawling under your Edge. That is pretty quick time parts store must be behind your house. Anyway 30 minutes (drive and flush) and I get a coffee and not dirty. 150.00 and done. Plus I know it is done correctly as the shop I use has been doing this for me for over 10 years. I get enjoyment out of it most likely you get enjoyment out of the way you do it. Cost wise/time wise. We both weigh our time differently, but this is once every 6-7 month maintenance for me due to my driving habits so I economize my time. Mac, What are you paying to have your transmission flushed? Are you getting full synthetic oil? How long does it take round trip? (Home > shop > home?) My method takes an hour. I didn't want to do it. I told the GF to schedule it 5000 miles ago, but she didn't, so I did it sunday night, while she made dinner. I changed the PTU oil while i had it in the garage, too. Does anyone else find the dip stick impossible to read? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mirage52 Posted January 30, 2016 Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 I'll be doing a drain and fill on trans fluid soon. Any tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Try this route, pretty simple and was very easy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liptoss Posted September 16, 2016 Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 All I know I'll be doing a drain and fill, flush or something with this crazy transmission without a replaceable filter. Wondering if others will ring in with the mileage they've seen on their edges? I've 113,000 kms on my '13 FWD 3.5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasoneg Posted September 16, 2016 Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 2008 Limited - 184,000 miles and going strong! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liptoss Posted September 21, 2016 Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 Great! When I read info like this it gives me hope that the various components in this vehicle have what it takes to go the distance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buuls eye Posted September 27, 2016 Report Share Posted September 27, 2016 I am going to do it every other oil change(10k). Ford said "drain and fill at 30k for extreme conditions". What Ford is really saying, change the fluid at 30k will most likely keep the tranny trouble free till 60k so you wont come in for warranty works which Ford has to pay. My take on what ford is saying is that at 30k the fluid will start showing oxidation and increase wear on the tranny. I think changing the atf frequently and long before the fluid break down should be sufficent for this transmission to go a long way. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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