What Oil and Oil Filter Do you use?

[solas989]

Well, I have not done an oil change yet - still under 1000 miles - but I am curious what oil and oil filters everyone uses.

 

Me:

 

Amsoil XLF/XLM - $4.30 / Qt based on case.

Mobil1 Filter - locally found - have not bought yet.

 

 

I used to use Mobil1 oil, but found out they went down from a ClassIV quality stock to ClassIII with no change in price. Amsoil is still ClassIV stock.

 

Solas

[Grey]

Motorcraft, of course.

[akirby]

Motorcraft, of course.

 

Ditto. Why change it?

[Gary F]

Autozone has Motorcraft oil and filters. 6 Qts of 5-20 MC syn blend and one FL400 filter, out the door $22.00.

 

Gary F

[TN-EdgeSEL]

Do NOT use Synthetics for your first oil change if you plan on changing oil every 3000 miles like many people still do. Wait till your 2nd oil change. While it might be possible these new engines have a shorter break in period, you do not want to run the risk of improper ring seating. Rings do not seat properly with Synthetic lubricants unless the vehicle came with Synthetics installed upon delivery which I see no indication that the Edge came with them. There are very few vehicles delivered that way and usually only high end, high performance engines in sports cars like the Lambo. The ones that do, carry a notice that the car was delivered with synthetic lubricants. Manufacturers recomendations say to change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles. If you go according to those specs, I see no reason you couldn't use synthetics at the first oil change and thereafter. The engine should definately be broken in by then.

 

On a side note, using Synthetics do maintain a much cleaner engine with virtually no carbon build up, so they are a better product. On the other hand, if you usually do not keep a vehicle more than 100k miles and do a lot of highway driving, using a standard 10w20 detergent oil as per manufactures specs should be fine.

 

I really haven't seen any indication when selling a vehicle years down the road that using Synthetics add a monitary value to a vehicle in resale so you would only be spending extra money for the next owners benifit which they would not give you any extra funds for. The choice is up to you.

 

Oil doesn't matter because oils today exceed manufactures specs. Any oils that claim to be better is only hype for the average car owner. Unless you plan on keeping the car for years and hundreds of thousands if miles, they provide no added benifits

[akirby]

Do NOT use Synthetics for your first oil change if you plan on changing oil every 3000 miles like many people still do. Wait till your 2nd oil change. While it might be possible these new engines have a shorter break in period, you do not want to run the risk of improper ring seating. Rings do not seat properly with Synthetic lubricants unless the vehicle came with Synthetics installed upon delivery which I see no indication that the Edge came with them. There are very few vehicles delivered that way and usually only high end, high performance engines in sports cars like the Lambo. The ones that do, carry a notice that the car was delivered with synthetic lubricants. Manufacturers recomendations say to change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles. If you go according to those specs, I see no reason you couldn't use synthetics at the first oil change and thereafter. The engine should definately be broken in by then.

 

On a side note, using Synthetics do maintain a much cleaner engine with virtually no carbon build up, so they are a better product. On the other hand, if you usually do not keep a vehicle more than 100k miles and do a lot of highway driving, using a standard 10w20 detergent oil as per manufactures specs should be fine.

 

I really haven't seen any indication when selling a vehicle years down the road that using Synthetics add a monitary value to a vehicle in resale so you would only be spending extra money for the next owners benifit which they would not give you any extra funds for. The choice is up to you.

 

Oil doesn't matter because oils today exceed manufactures specs. Any oils that claim to be better is only hype for the average car owner. Unless you plan on keeping the car for years and hundreds of thousands if miles, they provide no added benifits

 

Be aware that the factory 5W-20 is a synthetic blend, not regular oil.

[jeffreybehr]

RedLine 5W20 and a Mobil 1 filter. This synthetic was added at 4000 miles after a couple changes of deaddino oil and MotorCraft filters.

[solas989]

I need to use synthetics because it is my requirement that my vehicles last 8 years - with my average miles / year being 25,000-30,000. (that means 200,000 to 240,000 miles on the car at the end of life).

 

My 1997 Ford Contour SE made it to the year 2005 with 225,000 miles on it. Granted it was needing some overhauling but it was a good car. My vehicles I run into the ground after many many miles and thus they will almost have no value at the end of their life. If I just did not get tired of the same car after 8 years, I could drive them forever.

 

I switched both my Contour and Mazda at about 1000 miles to synthetic and have done me well thus far. My Mazda purrs like a kitten - but now with the Edge in the family, I dont drive the Mazda much which creates a new set of issues.

 

I plan on changing oil every 5000 miles to keep in spec with the warranty (I may change oil filters sooner depending on their quality after testing). Then once out of warranty, I will change about 10,000 miles with Amsoil - the long mile stuff - which has been getting up to 15000-20000 miles without breaking down (according to results from Blackstone labs and the people who sent it in).

 

Solas

[Grey]

Solas, leae the factory fill in for at least 3,000 miles to let the rings seat well.

 

The factory recommends 7,500 mile changes for high mileage drivers.

 

Out of warranty, do whatever you like - but stick to 5w20 or 0w20.

Edited February 18, 2008 by Grey

[solas989]

Solas, leae the factory fill in for at least 3,000 miles to let the rimgs seat well.

 

The factory recommends 7,500 mile changes for high mileage drivers.

 

Out of warranty, do whatever you like - but stick to 5w20 or 0w20.

Is that because of the Ford engine and its design? Or in general for all engines?

 

I have fellow m8's that have swapped out on Toyota, Honda and other Mazda engines (from I4 to V8) at ~1000 miles and all are doing well - some are well into upper 180,000's. My thought is to get all the metal shavings out due to fabrication and initial break in.

 

I only read 5000 in the manual for the warranty- i will have to go back and reread it - if they will let me get away with 7500 miles - excellent.

 

Don't worry, I don't veer from 0W20 or 5W20.

 

Solas

[Grey]

If you want to remove metal shavings, replace only the filter. Just don't change out the factory fill oil for 3,000 miles to permit ring wear-in. Full synthetics can permit the cylinder walls to glaze and prevent proper ring seating. (What is the worse that can happen? - using 1 quart of oil every 1,000 - 1,500 miles.)

 

I know some vehicle engines come with full synthetics from the factory and they have been machined to accomodate super slick oil.

 

Most engine wear occurs at start-up. Contary to popular belief, flow = lubrication (not oil pressure). 0w20 oil would be ideal for most engines, but very expensive. Motorcraft 5w20 is a good semi-synthetic oil that can be used in most climates and provides full lubrication for 7,500 miles or more, and it's reasonably priced. I question there would be any benefit to spending big dollars for a full synthetic oil if you are going to change it every 7,500 miles or 6 months. If you are constantly starting your engine at below freezing temps, use 0w20 - that would be worth it.

[Tomcher]

I finally changed my oil today at 5000 miles, not the 7500 recommended. I went to walmart, got the Motorcraft 5W-20 synthetic blend, Ford filter and proceeded home to drain the hot oil. The fun started when I tried to get the old filter off. I tried a cap type filter wrench first, it kept slipping, then I tried a squeeze type clamp wrench. After partially crushing the filter, I still couldn't get enough leverage to turn it. Next I tried driving it off with a hammer and flat tip screwdriver, still didn't budge. Finally I used a 4" C-clamp tightened very tight with C on the bottom of the filter, I put a pry bar through the C and finally it turned and slowly untightened. I'm glad I didn't have to resort to the screwdriver driven through the filter, that's just way too messy. I don't anticipate the next oil change to be quite as hard, since I didn't ask "The Hulk" to tighten the new one for me. I put exactly 5 and 1/2 quarts in and that brought the level on the dipstick up to the correct level. I don't know why Ford put that filter on that tight, I guess they want you to give up and bring it back to the dealer, no way, I'm the only one that's going to touch my 2008 Copper Limited.

[bulldog]

i used motorcraft and fram (thats what jiffy lube used) i used jiffy lube because we were on a little trip, and was about to go on vacation. i prefer to change my own. at the next oil change (10,000 mile one) i did it myself with the same stuff. i found this was the easiest oil change i've ever done. everything was "right there" and took very little time. EXCEPT for the draining. i think i had about 7 quarts in that thing (i would say jiffy lube didn't drain it near long enough) I wasn't happy, and i've checked it on the dipstick but it alway's showed just fine. my wife's noticed we are getting even better mpg now. my next oil change i'm going to try full synthetic mobil 1.

 

still loving this vehicle.

[druck52]

I finally changed my oil today at 5000 miles, not the 7500 recommended. I went to walmart, got the Motorcraft 5W-20 synthetic blend, Ford filter and proceeded home to drain the hot oil. The fun started when I tried to get the old filter off. I tried a cap type filter wrench first, it kept slipping, then I tried a squeeze type clamp wrench. After partially crushing the filter, I still couldn't get enough leverage to turn it. Next I tried driving it off with a hammer and flat tip screwdriver, still didn't budge. Finally I used a 4" C-clamp tightened very tight with C on the bottom of the filter, I put a pry bar through the C and finally it turned and slowly untightened. I'm glad I didn't have to resort to the screwdriver driven through the filter, that's just way too messy. I don't anticipate the next oil change to be quite as hard, since I didn't ask "The Hulk" to tighten the new one for me. I put exactly 5 and 1/2 quarts in and that brought the level on the dipstick up to the correct level. I don't know why Ford put that filter on that tight, I guess they want you to give up and bring it back to the dealer, no way, I'm the only one that's going to touch my 2008 Copper Limited.

 

Ford puts them all on that tight from the factory. I don't know why they do it, but believe me it can really be a pain in the butt. You are lucky that the filter is very easy to get to on the edge.