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Attempted DRL led swap on a '15 - now both DRL don't work


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If the configuration is anything like the 2011, the BCM may need to be replaced:

 

PINPOINT TEST M: THE DRL ARE INOPERATIVE Test Step Result / Action to Take M1 CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE HEADLAMPS AND FRONT TURN LAMPS

  • Ignition OFF.
  • Place the headlamp switch in the ON position and activate the hazard lamp function.
  • Do the headlamps and front turn lamps operate correctly?

Yes
GO to M2 .

No
REFER to Headlamps or Turn Signal and Hazard Lamps in this section.

 

M2 VERIFY THE DRL OPERATION

  • Ignition ON.
  • Place the headlamp switch in the OFF position and deactivate the hazard lamp function.
  • Place the gear selector lever in any gear other than PARK (P).
  • Are the DRL illuminated?

Yes
The system is operating correctly. INFORM the customer of the conditions required for the DRL to operate correctly.

No
GO to M3 .

 

M3 CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE HEADLAMPS

  • Place the headlamp switch in the HEADLAMPS ON position and observe the headlamps.
  • Do the headlamps operate correctly?

Yes
GO to M4 .

No
REFER to Headlamps in this section.

 

M4 CHECK THE TRANSMISSION GEAR INPUT

  • Enter the following diagnostic mode on the scan tool: PCM DataLogger.
  • Monitor the PCM transmission gear status PID (TR) while placing the gear selector lever through all its positions.
  • Does the PID agree with the gear selection?

Yes
GO to M5 .

No
REFER to Section 307-01 to diagnose the transmission range input.

 

M5 CHECK THE BCM FOR DRL CONFIGURATION

  • Enter the following diagnostic mode on the scan tool: BCM Configuration.
  • Check the BCM configuration and make sure the DRL feature is enabled.
  • Is the BCM DRL feature enabled

Yes
INSTALL a new BCM . REFER to Section 419-10 . TEST the system for normal operation.

No
ENABLE the DRL configuration. TEST the system for normal operation.

Edited by WWWPerfA_ZN0W
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well...the above post is scary.

 

I guess I was expecting an easier solution, like "hey, go check fuse #"

 

but instead, the solution was "Hey, drop it in drive and apply electronic brake"

 

So...with e brake on, factory lights ARE working, LED lights are NOT.

 

I have a second set of similar LEDs coming in, if those don't work as well....I'll be very very annoyed.

 

So for now, I have not managed to destroy the car which is probably a good start as I am almost at 1k line.

 

moral of the story: put it in drive and then complain if DRL does not work.

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Another moral to the story... don't buy the cheap Chinese bulbs on eBay. iJDMTOY sells 50W H15 Cree LED bulbs both on their own site and on eBay for $46 per pair. Unfortunately, H15 is not a popular bulb type so your options are somewhat limited. Neither V-LEDs nor Diode Dynamics (generally considered the two best) carry H15 LED bulbs.

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Another moral to the story... don't buy the cheap Chinese bulbs on eBay. iJDMTOY sells 50W H15 Cree LED bulbs both on their own site and on eBay for $46 per pair. Unfortunately, H15 is not a popular bulb type so your options are somewhat limited. Neither V-LEDs nor Diode Dynamics (generally considered the two best) carry H15 LED bulbs.

well, these "cheap" bulbs were $25 which I already got refunded and get to keep the bulbs.

 

Soon I hope I get my $13 cheap bulbs from China direct, will see how they hold up.

 

As far as your iJDMTOY, who said they aren't chinese? Says made in Japan on yours?

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I have no particular interest in iJDMTOY other than I have used their products and been very satisfied with them. I have also used products from V-LEDs and Diode Dynamics and been equally impressed with the quality. All three are American companies and although I can't confirm country of origin for all of their products, the ones I have used have all been made in the USA. I have done literally dozens of LED conversions on a wide variety of vehicles and have always found that paying a little more will invariably get you better quality product. A significant number of the vehicles I have worked on were brought to me because the owner had tried using cheap bulbs (usually from eBay) and been unsatisfied with the results.

 

I am not criticizing things made in China specifically... I'm criticizing Chinese "knock-offs". Many products are manufactured in China to exacting specifications of their American buyers and are quality products. For example, I would have no qualms about buying a Sylvania or Philips bulb even if it was manufactured in China because I would be reasonably certain that it was manufactured to meet their expectations of quality. That doesn't apply to the no-name cheap Chinese products frequently sold on the web.

 

Designing and building LED replacement bulbs is a complicated process that involves trying to get maximum brightness while still maintaining reliability through proper current and heat management and making it all fit into factory lamp housings. Cheaper bulbs tend to use less expensive components and overdrive the chips to get additional brightness at the expense of reliability and longevity. I have seen LED turn signal bulbs that fail in as little as 30 days when they should outlast the vehicle. On the other hand, I have iJDMTOY 3157 amber LED bulbs in the front of my Mustang that not only run all the time as DRLs but also withstand 10-hour days strobing when I use the car for safety support of charity bicycle events. They've been working like that without a problem for four years now.

 

You may be lucky and get Chinese bulbs that last but I find it's more economical in the long run to go with quality and only have to do the job once.

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Never had a problem with eBay Chinese sourced LEDs until I got the 2 bulbs that don't work, I suspect the car is not giving them enough power as they are supposed to be "100w"

 

Will see if my mechanic can test them in the shop.

 

Otherwise, I see no reason paying $50 for a set of dim, stock brightness LED when for $100 I can get HID brightness from quality OPT7 leds

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Man, you need to check your specs a little better. That 100W figure is simply the theoretical maximum output of the LED chips added together. It has little relation to the actual output or current draw at 12V. If it did, you would be drawing too much power for your stock wiring to handle safely. The actual wattage is more like 15W (that's actually specified on one of those "100W bulb" pages). Besides, the wattage is only approximately related to light output. One of those 100W LED bulbs shows 1200 lumens output while another shows 900 lumens - both of which are less than the 1350 lumens produced by the original halogen bulb.

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Wizard, I put the 100w in quotes, as in I am aware it's not 100w led power.

 

The bulbs I ordered were quoted as 1800 lumens, I just wanted to make sure I did not end up with less light.

 

I did consider stupid bright 5000 lumen ones but the way they are aimed I would be blinding people in the day time.

 

For future reference, I am not an ignorant buyer and have done my research, I can tell a difference between a claim and actual expected performance which is why I ordered from two different sellers, one already gave me my money back and let me keep bulbs that don't work and a second who promised to send me a free 2nd set of bulbs since I didn't get the first set ordered a month ago...

 

I'm sure eventually I will buy something local

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If those are the ones being sold by vanterec2015, I will be very curious to find out how they work for you. That is a unique design with what appears to be dual reflectors in the center to provide 360 degree beam spread. I would be a little concerned about the brightness as I see the same "100W" bulb from the same vendor listed in two different auctions - one claiming 1800 lumens and the other only 1200 lumens but I suppose they could be two different generations of the product. Still, I've never seen an LED bulb in that power range that doesn't have an external driver box (similar to a ballast for HID lamps).

 

Let us know how they work out.

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Haven't bought anything else yet...but there are 3500lm bulbs from opt7 on amazon that do not come with a box, had them side by side next to HID and could not tell the difference in color or brightness through projectors of a Venza.

 

Will update once I pick something.

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Wizard, I will not be dealing with vanterec2015 as their bulbs did not work so I just got a refund.

 

I am dealing with another chinese vendor who sent me the same exact design for $10 cheaper but...they never arrived!

 

the seller is desperate to send me another set but I'm not desperate to wait another 3 weeks for it so I ordered a different design, see photo above.

 

If the 2nd seller still sends me the 2nd set they would be the same design as vanterec2015 so I will put them side by side to see the difference.

 

I am also curious as the new, shipped from US set, set me back $34 as the prior chinese shipped set is just over $10, for a pair.

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Is that 40W or 40W equivalent?

 

LED speak is never real wattage.

 

For example, my 60w equivalent house bulb is just 8w LED making over 1200lm.

 

Now a 60w LED should be capable of blinding anyone, anywhere, anytime.

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Is that 40W or 40W equivalent?

 

Each bulb 80W nominal total for 16 x 5W CREE LEDs, actual power 16W producing 1100 lumens according to the eBay listing. I'm curious how they'll stack up against the OEM halogen 1350 lumens when installed.

Edited by TheWizard
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