price of edge?

[npggirl]

I wanted to make sure I am correct on prices...

The SEL, with navigation, vista roof, 18' wheels, floor mats, and so on...

Almost fully loaded...will be around 34-35 thousand, right?

The build your own vehicle shows around that price on the ford site..

I read on yahoo where a dealer somewhere was trying to charge someone around 7 thousand more than that, saying around 40-42 thousand would be the correct price???

For those of you who have bought or seen almost fully to fully loaded edges, what has the price sticker been showing?

[audiomidiman]

I wanted to make sure I am correct on prices...

The SEL, with navigation, vista roof, 18' wheels, floor mats, and so on...

Almost fully loaded...will be around 34-35 thousand, right?

The build your own vehicle shows around that price on the ford site..

I read on yahoo where a dealer somewhere was trying to charge someone around 7 thousand more than that, saying around 40-42 thousand would be the correct price???

For those of you who have bought or seen almost fully to fully loaded edges, what has the price sticker been showing?

 

That's probably the most it should be. I know of one person that ordered a stripped SEL w/ a Vista Roof should be less than $30,000... I almost did that but I usually have my sunroof shade closed due to the heat so I opted for 18" Rims, Tow Package and reverse sensing system.

 

IMHO is that any dealer trying to charge $7,000 over sticker deserves to be shut down. Especially on a production car. Cobra R and Ford GT is one thing to get what you can get. But these cars are going to be very popular and there is NO NEED TO PAY OVER STICKER. So, if the dealer is charging more than sticker just walk to the next dealer. Greed is screwing Ford. My dealer gave me X-Plan pricing and a couple of people I talked too said that some dealers weren't honoring it for the first orders. If my dealer told me no X-Plan pricing I would of went to a competitor and personally showed off my new car to Bill Ford and his gang along w/ an invoice and a letter of the dealer that screwed over a loyal Ford consumer of 10+ years (I'm only 31).

 

Bill

[npggirl]

That's probably the most it should be. I know of one person that ordered a stripped SEL w/ a Vista Roof should be less than $30,000... I almost did that but I usually have my sunroof shade closed due to the heat so I opted for 18" Rims, Tow Package and reverse sensing system.

 

IMHO is that any dealer trying to charge $7,000 over sticker deserves to be shut down. Especially on a production car. Cobra R and Ford GT is one thing to get what you can get. But these cars are going to be very popular and there is NO NEED TO PAY OVER STICKER. So, if the dealer is charging more than sticker just walk to the next dealer. Greed is screwing Ford. My dealer gave me X-Plan pricing and a couple of people I talked too said that some dealers weren't honoring it for the first orders. If my dealer told me no X-Plan pricing I would of went to a competitor and personally showed off my new car to Bill Ford and his gang along w/ an invoice and a letter of the dealer that screwed over a loyal Ford consumer of 10+ years (I'm only 31).

 

Bill

 

what is the X-Plan?

and so you are saying the fully loaded or near about fully loaded should be around 34-35 ish, right?

:yup:

[92merc]

First off npgirl, are you talking US dollars or Canadian? Just want to make sure we're clear there.

 

But if you take the "Build and Price", you should be able to knock off about $2k for XPlan. And that would be in US dollars.

 

If you head to the BlueOvalNews Forums and into the Employee section, they have a place you can ask for an XPlan Pin. Considering there are no current incentives, it would be a good deal. And if the dealers say they "can't" do XPlan, they're full of crap. All dealers can. It's a matter of them doing a little more paper work.

[robertlane]

For the X-plan pin section, click here. I don't think that dealers are required to sell at the X-plan pin price, but most do. They might exclude certain vehicles like the Shelby models, etc.

[npggirl]

First off npgirl, are you talking US dollars or Canadian? Just want to make sure we're clear there.

 

But if you take the "Build and Price", you should be able to knock off about $2k for XPlan. And that would be in US dollars.

 

If you head to the BlueOvalNews Forums and into the Employee section, they have a place you can ask for an XPlan Pin. Considering there are no current incentives, it would be a good deal. And if the dealers say they "can't" do XPlan, they're full of crap. All dealers can. It's a matter of them doing a little more paper work.

 

yes...US dollars. :yup:

[npggirl]

For the X-plan pin section, click here. I don't think that dealers are required to sell at the X-plan pin price, but most do. They might exclude certain vehicles like the Shelby models, etc.

 

 

thank u lots!

[sranger]

Here is my idea of how to buy a new Edge, Sorry it is so long....

 

Go to Edmunds.com and get the TMV ( true market value ) price for the edge with the options that you want. This will show you the dealer invoice price and MSRP. Ignore the "What others are paying" stuff. ( That is their problem ) Now subtract 3% of the MSRP price from the Invoice price. This 3% is known as the dealer hold back amount. It is basically a rebate that Ford gives the dealer.

 

This price will be close to the actual amount that the dealers pays Ford for the vehicle. The dealer has other incentives, but they are hard to measure. Now, add about 5% ( usually 2-3% is sufficient, but this is a new vehicle in short supply ) to this price for your offer.

 

Print all of this out and go to the dealer with folder in hand. If you have all of this printed out ahead of time it makes it harder for the dealer to confuse you when the negotiations start. Make no doubt about it, when you enter the dealership, they just declared physological war against you. They call this "handling" the customer. Their goal is to confuse you and wear you down with a long drawn out negotiating process. The longer they can keep you in negotiations, the more tired and confused you will get. Keep in mind they will Usually use 1-2 people on a rotation to wear you down. They counting on you getting tired and annoyed so they canslip stuff past you. I often tell the salesperson that I am giving them a time limit of 15 minutes to colse a deal. Any longer and I will walk out. Also make sure that you have eaten BEFORE you go to the dealership.

 

They will typically try to add in things Like Documentation Fees, unusually high financing rates, undercoating, paint sealer, etc. DO NOT accept any of these. If they show you a contract with any of these items pre-printed on them, take a pen and mark a line through them and ask for a manager to initial it. A dealership will usually have the Documentation fees printed in bold on thier sale contract to make it look more "official". A dealer will ofter say thet they are mandidated by the state. DO NOT Believe any of their B.S. about these fees or adders. They are made up and are simply money they are trying to milk out of you.

 

THIS IS VERY IMPORTIANT. DO NOT SIGN ANYTHING until the bottom line price matches your price and request a photo copy of the contract BEFORE you sign anything. Do not be supprised if the contract changes when they go back to type up the actual sales contract. You have to keep your guard up every second. Most dealers will try to cheat you if you let them.

 

I always negotiate as a cash deal. When I had to finance, I would always get pre-approved through a bank well ahead of time. The financing part of the negoations is when you are most vulernable. Also have a Kelly Blue book traid in value in with you for any car you are going to trade in. You can get it and print it out at www.KBB.com. However, you should never discuss traid in until you have a valid selling price set. Keep in mind that your sales tax is the difference between the selling price and the traid in value. Dealers will often try to charge you sales tax on the full sales price and only pay the state the difference.

 

In most states the tag and title fee will be less than $50.00. This is ALL you should agree to pay. So your drive out price should be :

 

Taxable Amount = Sales Price - Traid In Value

Drive out = Taxable Amount + ( Taxable Amount * Sales Tax%) + TagFee + TitleFee.

 

Here is an example I recently worked up:

 

2007 Edge SEL Plus with Vista Roof 18" Chrome wheels and trailer hitch.

 

Total Dealer Invoice Price is: $31,685.

 

MSRP: 33,890 x 3% = $1,016

 

So, the actual dealer cost is $31,685 - $1,016 = $30,669.00

 

Now offer him a fair profit of 5% or $ 1,533.45.

 

So your total offer should be NO MORE than $30,669.00 + $1,533.45 = $32,202.25

 

My Current Car is worth about 14K so my drive out offer would be:

 

Taxable Amount = 32,202.25 - 14,000 = $18,202.45.

 

Drive out is: $18,202.45 + (18,202.45 * 0.06) + $3.00 State Tag Transfer Feed + $14.00 Title Fee = $19,311.59...

 

Now, by doing all of these calculation in advance, I can do a quick check of the bottom line on any contract at any point in the negotations. This keeps the dealer from being able to pull a fast one no matter how much they try to wear me down...

 

This is a fair price for the Edge SLE Plus right now. However, if you can wait, you can probably deduct another $2,000.00 - $3,000.00 due to rebates. Once the new wears off the Edge in a few months, I suspect there will be rebates....

 

I have always used this technique and I have always got my price. I should note that often the dealer resuses my deal, I say thanks and give them my card and say: "Call me if you change your mind..." They almost always call back because a 2-5% is a fair profit for them...

 

When I bought my 2005 Mariner, I offered $1,000 below the Ford Famly Plan and I got it. The dealer tried hard to say it was not possible because the famly plan was already such a deep discount. Obviously, he was lying. My finnal sale price was 3K below dealer invoice!!!

 

I also like to make my offers via EMAIL as well. It waste less of your time although, they will still try to tack on the add ons once you show up to buy...If you take your time and thing of it as a game, it can actually be fun experiance.

 

I hope this helps....

[npggirl]

Here is my idea of how to buy a new Edge, Sorry it is so long....

 

Go to Edmunds.com and get the TMV ( true market value ) price for the edge with the options that you want. This will show you the dealer invoice price and MSRP. Ignore the "What others are paying" stuff. ( That is their problem ) Now subtract 3% of the MSRP price from the Invoice price. This 3% is known as the dealer hold back amount. It is basically a rebate that Ford gives the dealer.

 

This price will be close to the actual amount that the dealers pays Ford for the vehicle. The dealer has other incentives, but they are hard to measure. Now, add about 5% ( usually 2-3% is sufficient, but this is a new vehicle in short supply ) to this price for your offer.

 

Print all of this out and go to the dealer with folder in hand. If you have all of this printed out ahead of time it makes it harder for the dealer to confuse you when the negotiations start. Make no doubt about it, when you enter the dealership, they just declared physological war against you. They call this "handling" the customer. Their goal is to confuse you and wear you down with a long drawn out negotiating process. The longer they can keep you in negotiations, the more tired and confused you will get. Keep in mind they will Usually use 1-2 people on a rotation to wear you down. They counting on you getting tired and annoyed so they canslip stuff past you. I often tell the salesperson that I am giving them a time limit of 15 minutes to colse a deal. Any longer and I will walk out. Also make sure that you have eaten BEFORE you go to the dealership.

 

They will typically try to add in things Like Documentation Fees, unusually high financing rates, undercoating, paint sealer, etc. DO NOT accept any of these. If they show you a contract with any of these items pre-printed on them, take a pen and mark a line through them and ask for a manager to initial it. A dealership will usually have the Documentation fees printed in bold on thier sale contract to make it look more "official". A dealer will ofter say thet they are mandidated by the state. DO NOT Believe any of their B.S. about these fees or adders. They are made up and are simply money they are trying to milk out of you.

 

THIS IS VERY IMPORTIANT. DO NOT SIGN ANYTHING until the bottom line price matches your price and request a photo copy of the contract BEFORE you sign anything. Do not be supprised if the contract changes when they go back to type up the actual sales contract. You have to keep your guard up every second. Most dealers will try to cheat you if you let them.

 

I always negotiate as a cash deal. When I had to finance, I would always get pre-approved through a bank well ahead of time. The financing part of the negoations is when you are most vulernable. Also have a Kelly Blue book traid in value in with you for any car you are going to trade in. You can get it and print it out at www.KBB.com. However, you should never discuss traid in until you have a valid selling price set. Keep in mind that your sales tax is the difference between the selling price and the traid in value. Dealers will often try to charge you sales tax on the full sales price and only pay the state the difference.

 

In most states the tag and title fee will be less than $50.00. This is ALL you should agree to pay. So your drive out price should be :

 

Taxable Amount = Sales Price - Traid In Value

Drive out = Taxable Amount + ( Taxable Amount * Sales Tax%) + TagFee + TitleFee.

 

Here is an example I recently worked up:

 

2007 Edge SEL Plus with Vista Roof 18" Chrome wheels and trailer hitch.

 

Total Dealer Invoice Price is: $31,685.

 

MSRP: 33,890 x 3% = $1,016

 

So, the actual dealer cost is $31,685 - $1,016 = $30,669.00

 

Now offer him a fair profit of 5% or $ 1,533.45.

 

So your total offer should be NO MORE than $30,669.00 + $1,533.45 = $32,202.25

 

My Current Car is worth about 14K so my drive out offer would be:

 

Taxable Amount = 32,202.25 - 14,000 = $18,202.45.

 

Drive out is: $18,202.45 + (18,202.45 * 0.06) + $3.00 State Tag Transfer Feed + $14.00 Title Fee = $19,311.59...

 

Now, by doing all of these calculation in advance, I can do a quick check of the bottom line on any contract at any point in the negotations. This keeps the dealer from being able to pull a fast one no matter how much they try to wear me down...

 

This is a fair price for the Edge SLE Plus right now. However, if you can wait, you can probably deduct another $2,000.00 - $3,000.00 due to rebates. Once the new wears off the Edge in a few months, I suspect there will be rebates....

 

I have always used this technique and I have always got my price. I should note that often the dealer resuses my deal, I say thanks and give them my card and say: "Call me if you change your mind..." They almost always call back because a 2-5% is a fair profit for them...

 

When I bought my 2005 Mariner, I offered $1,000 below the Ford Famly Plan and I got it. The dealer tried hard to say it was not possible because the famly plan was already such a deep discount. Obviously, he was lying. My finnal sale price was 3K below dealer invoice!!!

 

I also like to make my offers via EMAIL as well. It waste less of your time although, they will still try to tack on the add ons once you show up to buy...If you take your time and thing of it as a game, it can actually be fun experiance.

 

I hope this helps....

 

 

You dont know how much this is appreciated....

You took a lot of time to help me and I am truly grateful!....Now, I hope I can do some major bargaining!

Thank you...and this has helped a lot!!!!

:yup:

[sranger]

You are welcome. I hope you get exactly what you want. Just keep calm, do not get in a hurry and above all, don't take the process personal...

 

The Sales person's job is to get you to pay as much as possible and your job is to pay as little as possible. Try to think of it as a challenge and have a little fun with it. Shop at two or three dealers if possible...