bill valley Posted April 16, 2016 Report Share Posted April 16, 2016 Where did you pick up power for your LC7i? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lifeisabeach Posted January 1, 2017 Report Share Posted January 1, 2017 Hey guys, I have a couple questions. I want to upgrade just the speakers in my wife's 2017 Edge. I already have one ordered for the dash, but I'm not sure how to proceed with the doors. Right now, if I'm not mistaken, the factory door speakers consist of a 6.5" woofer-only in the lower part of each door and a tweeter up high. The question at hand is whether or not the factory audio system is pre-filtering out the highs for the lower speakers, and the lows for the upper tweeters. If it does do this, then the install is as simple as putting in better drivers. I could buy a component set and just not utilize the external crossover that these come with. If the system does NOT filter the highs/lows appropriately for each driver (which perhaps could partly explain why the factory sound quality is so poor?), then the question is how would I utilize the crossover that comes with the component speaker sets with the factory speaker wiring. If I'm interpreting the wiring diagrams provided earlier correctly, then each driver in each door is fed its signal separately from the DSP. Using the crossover that comes with these component speaker sets would require a bit of re-wiring of the speakers, something that I don't want to get that deep into. Alternatively, I could put a regular 6.5" 2-way speaker in the lower door and a separate tweeter up high. This would be the most practical solution if the system is not filtering out the highs for the lower speaker, though I'd need to do something to filter out the lows to the tweeter up top. Any thoughts here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted January 1, 2017 Report Share Posted January 1, 2017 (edited) In my 06 Fusion there was a crossover built into the 6.5" driver which then fed the tweeter so it was easy to use the crossover that came with the Polk Audio components. If it really has separate wires from the head unit then they must already be filtered so I'd just reuse them and skip the crossover. Edited January 1, 2017 by akirby 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fit1446 Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 Hey guys, I have a couple questions. I want to upgrade just the speakers in my wife's 2017 Edge. I already have one ordered for the dash, but I'm not sure how to proceed with the doors. Right now, if I'm not mistaken, the factory door speakers consist of a 6.5" woofer-only in the lower part of each door and a tweeter up high. The question at hand is whether or not the factory audio system is pre-filtering out the highs for the lower speakers, and the lows for the upper tweeters. If it does do this, then the install is as simple as putting in better drivers. I could buy a component set and just not utilize the external crossover that these come with. If the system does NOT filter the highs/lows appropriately for each driver (which perhaps could partly explain why the factory sound quality is so poor?), then the question is how would I utilize the crossover that comes with the component speaker sets with the factory speaker wiring. If I'm interpreting the wiring diagrams provided earlier correctly, then each driver in each door is fed its signal separately from the DSP. Using the crossover that comes with these component speaker sets would require a bit of re-wiring of the speakers, something that I don't want to get that deep into. Alternatively, I could put a regular 6.5" 2-way speaker in the lower door and a separate tweeter up high. This would be the most practical solution if the system is not filtering out the highs for the lower speaker, though I'd need to do something to filter out the lows to the tweeter up top. Any thoughts here? First , what trim package is your gen2? If you currently have a seperate mid range speaker in the door and a tweeter in the pillar I would absolutely utilize the crossover from a quality set of component speakers. Depending on your factory system more than likely your headunit is acting crossover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lifeisabeach Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 (edited) First , what trim package is your gen2? If you currently have a seperate mid range speaker in the door and a tweeter in the pillar I would absolutely utilize the crossover from a quality set of component speakers. Depending on your factory system more than likely your headunit is acting crossover It's an Edge Titanium (2017). There are no speakers in the pillar. Edited January 2, 2017 by Lifeisabeach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 It's an Edge Titanium (2017). There are no speakers in the pillar. It doesn't matter if they're in the top of the door or the a pillar - point is they're separate. It would be better to use the crossover from the new speakers but to do that you need a full range input. If the head unit is doing the filtering then you don't have a full range signal going to either door speaker. That's why I suggested just using the stock setup. But I don't know for sure if that's the case with the new Edge. One way to tell for sure is to disconnect the mid bass speaker and see of the tweeter keeps working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lifeisabeach Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 It doesn't matter if they're in the top of the door or the a pillar - point is they're separate. It would be better to use the crossover from the new speakers but to do that you need a full range input. If the head unit is doing the filtering then you don't have a full range signal going to either door speaker. That's why I suggested just using the stock setup. But I don't know for sure if that's the case with the new Edge. One way to tell for sure is to disconnect the mid bass speaker and see of the tweeter keeps working. Agreed on all counts. I hadn't thought of simply disconnecting the lower speaker to test and verify the wiring to the upper one... thanks for the tip! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fit1446 Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 I agree with akirby. Starting the new year with a first akirby .. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fit1446 Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 Agreed on all counts. I hadn't thought of simply disconnecting the lower speaker to test and verify the wiring to the upper one... thanks for the tip! I highly doubt the 2 doors speakers are component. It is my assumption they are wired seperatly on their own channel. But I have been wrong before :-). Either way it will be simple to install your component speakers using the crossover. What components are you looking at buying, or have u already purchased? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lifeisabeach Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 I highly doubt the 2 doors speakers are component. It is my assumption they are wired seperatly on their own channel. But I have been wrong before :-). Either way it will be simple to install your component speakers using the crossover. What components are you looking at buying, or have u already purchased? The wiring diagram posted earlier suggests they are wired separately. If not for that, I would have thought they were wired together just because they are in the same door. The 6x9 speakers in the gen 1 Edges are effectively a component 5 1/4 woofer and a tweeter packaged together. We'll see. I'm way on the fence on what to get. For tweeters, Crutchfield says you have to glue them in place, something I'd rather not do. I need to hunt around for a detailed description/photo of just how these tweeters are actually mounted. Someone posted that the tweeters from a Focal component set popped right into place, which would be ideal, but at $350 for that set, it's a bit more than I care to spend. I'm looking to spend about $200 per set. The other big problem with a component set is the tweeter... going by the dimensions of the Focal set that are supposed to be a perfect fit @ 1.79" cutout diameter, then most of the sets I've looked at have tweeters that are too big to fit in the space. Those that have the same or smaller diameter have a deeper surface mount depth. Custom mounting something that's oversized is out of the question... my wife will flip her shit if this is anything more than a simple swap-out. Going by Crutchfield's buying guide, here's what I'm considering: Center dash: Infinity Reference REF-3022cfx. This is the only set Crutchfield has listed as fitting, but that's a-ok. I expect it'd have been a top choice anyway. Tweeters, front and rear doors: Infinity Reference REF-275tx. These have a flexible mounting system and may work well here. I trust they'll better complement the dash speaker than my alternates, which are: Alpine SPS-110TW and Kicker KST20. Rear doors, lower: Polk Audio DXi6501. The tweeters likely aren't going to fit but the woofer should be a good match for what the factory amp puts out. Front doors, lower: Rockford Fosgate PPS4-6. This is a midrange speaker, not a woofer, but I'm thinking I'll let the rears and sub in the back handle the bass and have dedicated midranges up front. It might not be necessary if the dash speaker works out well though, in which case I'll do the same Polk Audios as the rear. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fit1446 Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 The wiring diagram posted earlier suggests they are wired separately. If not for that, I would have thought they were wired together just because they are in the same door. The 6x9 speakers in the gen 1 Edges are effectively a component 5 1/4 woofer and a tweeter packaged together. We'll see. I'm way on the fence on what to get. For tweeters, Crutchfield says you have to glue them in place, something I'd rather not do. I need to hunt around for a detailed description/photo of just how these tweeters are actually mounted. Someone posted that the tweeters from a Focal component set popped right into place, which would be ideal, but at $350 for that set, it's a bit more than I care to spend. I'm looking to spend about $200 per set. The other big problem with a component set is the tweeter... going by the dimensions of the Focal set that are supposed to be a perfect fit @ 1.79" cutout diameter, then most of the sets I've looked at have tweeters that are too big to fit in the space. Those that have the same or smaller diameter have a deeper surface mount depth. Custom mounting something that's oversized is out of the question... my wife will flip her shit if this is anything more than a simple swap-out. Going by Crutchfield's buying guide, here's what I'm considering: Center dash: Infinity Reference REF-3022cfx. This is the only set Crutchfield has listed as fitting, but that's a-ok. I expect it'd have been a top choice anyway. Tweeters, front and rear doors: Infinity Reference REF-275tx. These have a flexible mounting system and may work well here. I trust they'll better complement the dash speaker than my alternates, which are: Alpine SPS-110TW and Kicker KST20. Rear doors, lower: Polk Audio DXi6501. The tweeters likely aren't going to fit but the woofer should be a good match for what the factory amp puts out. Front doors, lower: Rockford Fosgate PPS4-6. This is a midrange speaker, not a woofer, but I'm thinking I'll let the rears and sub in the back handle the bass and have dedicated midranges up front. It might not be necessary if the dash speaker works out well though, in which case I'll do the same Polk Audios as the im curious to see where the tweeters mount in the doors. in my gen 1 they are in the pillars and i was able to find tweeters that literally pushed in like they were designed to be there.and you are correct about the wiring in the gen 1. i my factory adio was one channel to the door that ran both 5x7 and tweeter.however they were both crossed at the same frequency from the head unit. post a couple pics of the factory tweeter pod will ya? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 I agree with akirby. Starting the new year with a first akirby .. lol Stranger things have happened..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 I didn't see the wiring diagrams previously. It does appear that there is a separate channel for the front tweeters but not for the rear door speakers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lifeisabeach Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 I didn't see the wiring diagrams previously. It does appear that there is a separate channel for the front tweeters but not for the rear door speakers. Ah hah... I didn't look over the diagram for the rears. I guess I assumed they'd be wired the same as the fronts. It looks like maybe there is a crossover that the full signal runs to for the rears (rectangular shape "behind" the lower woofers) and the signal is distributed from there to the upper and lower drivers. I assume this is in the doors, but it may well not be. I'm looking over the parts diagrams on Ford's site and I haven't found anything yet that suggests what it could be or where it is. They do use the same woofers for front and rear though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fit1446 Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 Ah hah... I didn't look over the diagram for the rears. I guess I assumed they'd be wired the same as the fronts. It looks like maybe there is a crossover that the full signal runs to for the rears (rectangular shape "behind" the lower woofers) and the signal is distributed from there to the upper and lower drivers. I assume this is in the doors, but it may well not be. I'm looking over the parts diagrams on Ford's site and I haven't found anything yet that suggests what it could be or where it is. They do use the same woofers for front and rear though. the factory audiophile system that was in my 1st gen edge had a module that controlled sync as well as audio sound functions. would be unlikely that ford would put 4 seperate crossover devices in the doors...but the real focus is,,,no big deal for you!! since the mid range driver and the tweeter locations are both inside your door it will be an easy install for your new components using the crossover supplied with your new speakers!! your kind of lucky your tweeters are not in the pillars...have you ever looked at trying to run new wires through the bulk head in the doors???? not sure about your 2nd gen but it literally would require removing my doors to drill new holes.. total nightmare,, luckily for me when i did my audio system the factory wiring is set up for a compnent system..unlike the later models such as yours. hoping to see some pics of the project ongoing and finished sir. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradsh6 Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 (edited) does ford offer any specs for the factory "sony" amp anywhere? Edited January 15, 2017 by bradsh6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradsh6 Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 (edited) honestly it looks like this or a device like it is the best solution http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/dsr1when it comes out soon uses the line level from the head unit and communicates with canbus to figure out the volume and fade and such no center but who cares? extra speakers are a gimmick. in my old car i had only two woofer/tweeter component sets in the front and a sub in the back. the key was really the 150w RMS per channel to the front, not the number of speakers. Edited January 15, 2017 by bradsh6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knux11 Posted March 30, 2017 Report Share Posted March 30, 2017 I drilled out the center of the factory part, then used a dremel with a drum sander attachment to open it up to the same size as the tweeter hole. Then I used some foam seal tape to snug up the tweeter into the factory hole, then did a dab or 2 of epoxy on the back to secure it to the plastic. I will take a pic tomorrow any chance you'd make another sub box and sell it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffcarl Posted December 27, 2017 Report Share Posted December 27, 2017 Hello all, I just replaced my 2013SEL with a 2017SEL. The only thing I did to the '13 was to upgrade the front door speakers. I had excellent advice from member Kanatronic here on this board. He advised a pair of DLS speakers with crossover. I have been very pleased with those. So I pulled them from the '13 and was ready to put them in the new ride, but I'm a bit lost in the weeds. First of all, my new car is an SEL with regular (not Sony) audio, Sync3 & nav (Technology Package). I pulled the right front door panel and found the weird OEM speaker with a 4 wire plug going to it. Four wires? Not only 4 wires, but continuity between all 4, so that threw me a curve. Pressing on I see from the 132-4 diagram posted at the beginning of this thread that the main speakers have 2 wires, WH-VT & WH-OG. Now on the OEM plug the outer wires are WH-VT and WH-OG. This correctly corresponds to the diagram. The inner 2 wires are VT-OG ans YE-OG. These correspond to the tweeter wires in the diagram. Now the diagram is for a Sony system & mine is just plain jane, so I don't know if that makes a difference, but I don't understand why the tweeter wires would go to the 6 1/2" speaker when there is a separate tweeter, which does have the same 2 color coded wires on its plug. Well I figured I'd give it a try, so I connected the outer 2 wires (for the main speaker) directly to my DSL speaker woofer & ground terminals. It did work, but the volume was really low; so low that it just didn't seem right. When I put those DSL speakers in the 2013, they were just right, no issues at all. Anyway at that point I decided to stop before I burned something up, put the OEM speaker back in, and ask here for help. HELP: 1. How would I wire in my DSL speaker & crossover? That is assuming they are compatible with car. 2. Does my car have active noise reduction? Or is that just on the Sony system or Titanium? If it has ANR, does that prevent changing out the speakers? 3. Why would my DSL speaker have such a low volume compared to the El Cheapo OEM? As much as I like a nice sound system, I'm just not up for the amount of work that HappyHourSport has done to his car. I have no doubt that the sound is fantastic, but I just don't have it in me to go that far with it. I would guess that if the DSL speakers can be done in the front doors, I should maybe replace the center dash speaker as well. I don't think my car has a sub, so that dash speaker is probably the woofer unit. Would that be right? Recommendation for the front dash speaker? How ugly is it the swap it out? Anyway, here's a few photos. The head unit to clarify my system, The OEM speaker connection, The speaker plug with the 4 color coded wires, The DSL speaker showing ground woofer & tweeter terminals, and finally the crossover. Any help would be seriously appreciated. Thanks jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dieselboy Posted March 20, 2019 Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 I know this is an old post but I’m having issues with installers saying that the active noise cancelation speakers need to be shut down in order to have decent quality from an aftermarket amp. I don’t see anything in your post about that. Did you ever hear of that or did you run into issues with that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onyxbfly Posted March 20, 2019 Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 (edited) 8 hours ago, Dieselboy said: I know this is an old post but I’m having issues with installers saying that the active noise cancelation speakers need to be shut down in order to have decent quality from an aftermarket amp. I don’t see anything in your post about that. Did you ever hear of that or did you run into issues with that? The noise cancelling feature is part of the DSP/ amplifier if I'm not mistaken. You may be able to turn it of with forescan, emphasis on may. Or you could use something like this to bypass the factory DSP: https://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/dsr1/ or this https://www.kenwood.com/usa/car/excelon/xr600-6dsp/ Edited March 21, 2019 by onyxbfly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffcarl Posted March 21, 2019 Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 I didn't think that the Edge had active cancellation. I thought that was in the Escape only, but I didn't do any serious research. All I did was install a set of speakers in the front doors, no amp or sub-woofer. The OEM connectors are unique & I couldn't find ready made adapter harnesses, so I just cut the OEM connectors & hard wired the replacement speakers. I'm sorry but that's the extent of my knowledge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omar302 Posted March 21, 2019 Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 For 2015-2018 models, I believe only the Edge Sport had the Noise cancellation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dieselboy Posted March 21, 2019 Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 22 hours ago, onyxbfly said: The noise cancelling feature is part of the DSP/ amplifier if I'm not mistaken. You may be able to turn it of with forescan, emphasis on may. Or you could use something like this to bypass the factory DSP: https://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/dsr1/ or this https://www.kenwood.com/usa/car/excelon/xr600-6dsp/ Thank you for the response. I’m actually already planning on using a Fosgate-DSR1. Here’s my plan: Factory Deck...Maestro T-Harness...DSR-1....Kicker KX 800.5. fronts: Focal 165 AS3 rear: Focal 165 AS2 hatch: 1 Kicker Comp R 10” sub (Ported Box) Ive gone to 2 places to get an install and both said the Active Noise Cancelation has to be disengaged or it will sound like S&@t! Hopefully I can go to dealer and have them disengage it, but it peaked my interest because the issues HappyHourSport was having in his last post sound like exactly what they described would happen if ANC was not disengaged. I find it hard to believe no one else on this platform has run into this issue and either figured it out or not. So that’s where I’m at. I’m currently waiting for some Pods for my 3” Midrages that go with the 165AS3. They are coming from Germany, so I wanted to try to solve this issue before they get here. The pods were almost as expensive as the speakers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dieselboy Posted March 21, 2019 Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 18 hours ago, jeffcarl said: I didn't think that the Edge had active cancellation. I thought that was in the Escape only, but I didn't do any serious research. All I did was install a set of speakers in the front doors, no amp or sub-woofer. The OEM connectors are unique & I couldn't find ready made adapter harnesses, so I just cut the OEM connectors & hard wired the replacement speakers. I'm sorry but that's the extent of my knowledge. So they make a Maestro T harness for 15 edge. But since you kept factory amp and dsr I’m sure you don’t need to do anything. What speakers did you go with? How did they sound? Thx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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