A bad fuel pump and a how-to on an 09 Edge Limited w/ AWD

[Jsmith10000]

I have a story to tell as well as a how-to on an 09 Ford Edge Limited w/ AWD fuel pump assembly. This is my first post here but I wanted to be useful instead of whiny so here is my story lol.

 

The Story

 

I was driving my family out of state to a family reunion/Thanksgiving vacation. I was about an hour and a half from home on the interstate doing 75 mph when all of a sudden the edge went idle and lost power. The gas pedal was unresponsive and I pulled off the interstate as quickly as possible. On the side of the road the edge refused to respond to the gas pedal and it idled very rough. I could get it to slowly crawl forward if I held the gas pedal to the floor. I called a tow truck and they towed my car to a local ford dealer and dropped my family off at the car rental place. I got the rental, got all of our stuff out of the car at the dealer and continued my journey. The next day the dealer calls and tells me that they thought the problem was the throttle body sticking or failed but it turned out to be the fuel pump not operating properly. They informed me of a $1000 repair bill to fix this and I balked at it immediately (having done many fuel pumps in the past myself but on older vehicles) and told them heck no I’ll tow it back home when I get back. After towing it home with my truck and a car hauler I couldn’t find any how-to’s on how to replace the fuel pump. So because of this I winged it with little information and I come to find out this was the easiest fuel pump job I have ever done. So without further ado I will provide a text and picture how-to. Side note here, I didn’t think about making a how-to until I was almost done so I made as many pics as I could to make it easy to find and know what to look for. The rest is pretty straight forward if you’re at least a little mechanically inclined it shouldn't be hard at all.

 

The How-To (Est. to complete: 1 hour)

 

Step 1. Preparation

 

First I released fuel pressure by removing the fuel pump fuse and letting the car run dry then I unplugged the battery in the car. I removed the rugs from the carpet in front of the rear seats and cleaned the area to help reduce trash and dirt from getting into the tank later.

 

Step2. Gaining Access

 

The fuel pump sits underneath an access cover plate located underneath the rear driver side seat. I removed the trim caps off the leg feet exposing the nut and bolt. Using a long breaker bar and an 18 mm socket I removed the bolt from the left seat leg and a nut/washer combo on the right leg. (Fig. 1) After that I just simply raised the seat up and used the seat belt to hold it up by yanking the seat belt to lock it in place. (Fig. 2) Next I carefully pulled the carpet up while being mindful not to catch the wires running through a slit in the carpet. After lifting the carpet up you’ll see a nice big tin colored access cover with 4 Philips head screws. (Fig. 3) Remove the cover and you’ll see the fuel pump and it will have a plug and a hose running to it. (Fig. 4 shows what the pump looks like from the top but it was after I had already removed it from the tank.) Just push a tab in on the plug to pull it off and push to tabs in on the hose quick disconnect and it will pop off. Now take a brass punch or a flat head screwdriver along with a rubber mallet or hammer and slowly work the lock ring off the top. NO SPARKS so be careful about this step. You now have full access to the fuel pump.

 

Step 3. Removal and Install

 

Blow off and wipe off any dust or dirt to keep it out of the tank. Now slowly pull the pump up and out of the tank. Be very careful and slow because the fuel pump is like a bucket and will hold gas, plus the fuel level arm will get in the way so you have to take the pump out at an angle and there’s also another hose attached to the bottom of the pump but I think this is an AWD specific thing and FWD models don’t have the 2^nd hose but don’t quote me lol. (Fig. 5 shows what the pump looks like) Just pinch the 2 tabs and it comes right off. Tip the pump (bucket) to pour the remaining gas back into the tank. I had an actual bucket handy and put the old pump in it to keep gas from getting in the car. From this point on the install is just the reverse of the removal but I have a couple of key notes on the install.

 

Key Notes on Install

Remember to remove the old green gasket and replace it with a new fresh gasket ring. Don’t forget to attach the bottom hose before putting it in. Also when putting the lock ring back on there are little notches that align with a “bump” on the ring to indicate it’s fully locked. Make sure the line up before you put the access cover back on. When putting the seats back you can pull the legs out to make sure they clear the other seat to ensure there’s no catching and tearing of the seat fabric. The metal is quite sharp and it shaved a little skin off my finger during the process. Also make sure those bolts are nice and tight. It’s got to hold up in the event of a crash.

 

I used a genuine Ford Motorcraft part for this replacement and I got it brand new for $170 with free shipping off of eBay. I have included a picture of the sticker from the box the part came in. The part number is PFS-515 or 8T4Z-9H307-A (Fig. 6)

 

I hope this helps anyone who needs to replace a fuel pump or the fuel level sending unit. Thanks for reading my story and my how-to!

Edited December 3, 2015 by Jsmith10000

[enigma-2]

Hey jsmith, that's an outstanding writeup. One of the best I've ever seen, every thing is crystal clear. Thanks so much for posting this. If I ever need to replace my pump I'll remember you.

Btw, how many miles do you have on your edge?

[Jsmith10000]

Thank you for the compliment. It has 75,700 miles which is what shocks me but maybe i just got unlucky and got the shoddy one.

Edited December 3, 2015 by Jsmith10000

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Thanks for taking the time to do this writeup w helpful pics, glad you got the situation resolved w/o too much of a hit to the wallet. The AWD fuel tank is a "saddle type" tank due to the driveshaft taking up room, so it is not flat-bottomed. The hose at the bottom is the crossover tube for the saddle tank.

 

Here is the FSM on how to R&R the fuel pump module:

Fuel Pump Module
Special Tool(s)

Fuel Storage Tanker 164-R3202 or equivalent

Fuel Tank Lock Ring Wrench 310-123

Material Item Specification

Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil XO-5W20-QSP (US);

Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Super Premium Motor Oil CXO-5W20-LSP12 (Canada);

or equivalent WSS-M2C930-A

 

NOTE: All wheel drive (AWD) fuel pump (FP) module shown, front wheel drive (FWD) FP module similar.

Item Part Number Description

1 W705909 Fuel pump (FP) module access cover retainer screw (4 required)

2 9C355 FP module access cover

3 9C385 FP module lock ring

4 9H307 FP module

5 9276 FP module O-ring

6 — FP module electrical connector (part of 14407)

7 — Fuel supply tube quick connect coupling (part of 9324)

 

Removal and Installation

WARNING: Do not smoke or carry lighted tobacco or open flame of any type when working on or near any fuel-related component. Highly flammable mixtures are always present and may be ignited. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.

WARNING: Do not carry personal electronic devices such as cell phones, pagers or audio equipment of any type when working on or near any fuel-related components. Highly flammable mixtures are always present and may be ignited. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.

WARNING: Fuel in the fuel system remains under high pressure even when the engine is not running. Before repairing or disconnecting any of the fuel system components, the fuel system pressure must be relieved to prevent accidental spraying of fuel causing personal injury or a fire hazard.

All vehicles

1. Release the fuel system pressure. For additional information, refer to Section 310-00 .

2. Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01 .

3. Release the fuel tank filler cap and position aside.

4. Insert a suitable fuel drain tube into the fuel tank filler pipe until it reaches the fuel tank inlet spout.

5. Attach the fuel storage tanker to the fuel drain tube and remove any residual fuel remaining in the fuel tank filler pipe.

6. Remove the rear seat. For additional information, refer to Section 501-10 .

7. Position the carpet and/or any insulation covering the fuel pump (FP) module access cover aside.

8. Remove the 4 screws and the FP module access cover.

9. Disconnect the FP module electrical connector.

10. Disconnect the fuel tank supply tube-to-FP module quick connect coupling. For additional information, refer to Section 310-00 .

11. CAUTION: Place absorbent pads on the floor pan in the immediate area in case of fuel spills. Carefully remove the fuel pump (FP) module from the vehicle to avoid fuel spillage inside the vehicle.

    Using the special tool, remove the FP module lock ring retainer.

All wheel drive (AWD) vehicles

12. CAUTION: The fuel pump (FP) module must be handled carefully to avoid damage to the FP module and/or float arm.

    Carefully lift the FP module out of the fuel tank enough to access and disconnect the fuel tank crossover tube-to-FP module quick connect coupling. For additional information, refer to Section 310-00 .

All vehicles

13. CAUTION: The fuel pump (FP) module will have residual fuel remaining internally, drain into a suitable container.

    Completely remove the FP module from the fuel tank.

14. CAUTION: Inspect the mating surfaces of the fuel pump (FP) module flange and the fuel tank O-ring seal contact surfaces. Do not polish or adjust the O-ring seal contact area of the fuel tank flange or the fuel tank. Install a new FP module or fuel tank if the O-ring seal contact area is bent, scratched or corroded.

    CAUTION: Make sure to install a new fuel pump (FP) module O-ring seal. Install a new lock ring if it is bent, damaged or corroded.

    NOTE: To install, apply clean engine oil to the O-ring seal.

    Remove the FP module O-ring seal.

15. NOTE: Make sure the alignment tab on the fuel pump (FP) module and the fuel tank meet before tightening the FP module lock ring.

    To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Edited December 3, 2015 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Fuel Level Sensor Part Number:

Sender and Pump Assy - Callout Name: 9275 (Fuel level sensor O-ring seal is a part of 9275))

7T4Z-9275-B

 

Fuel Pump O-Ring:

Gasket - Callout Name: 9417 - 3.6 x 136

4L3Z-9276-AA

 

Fuel Pump for FWD (?)

7T4Z-9H307-H

Pump Assy - Fuel Service Kit, With Instruction Sheet Replaced by: 8T4Z-9H307-B

[Jsmith10000]

Thanks for the extra info. This is what I was looking for before I replaced the pump but couldn't find it anywhere. Hopefully all of this info will save someone willing to do it themselves a lot money.

[gloria's edge]

Thanks for the write up!...very helpful and useful. I thought I read in my Service & Repair Manual the fuel pump was not serviceable and in the fuel tank?

 

I have an 2008 SEL AWD with the 3.5 engine and about 68k miles.

[enigma-2]

So much great information in this message, like to see it pinned.

[gloria's edge]

Thanks for the write up!...very helpful and useful. I thought I read in my Service & Repair Manual the fuel pump was not serviceable and in the fuel tank?

 

I have an 2008 SEL AWD with the 3.5 engine and about 68k miles.

Sorry about this misinformation...I meant the fuel filter not the pump is it serviceable? I've read the fuel filter is not?

[Jsmith10000]

Sorry about this misinformation...I meant the fuel filter not the pump is it serviceable? I've read the fuel filter is not?

 

That's correct. The only fuel filter is a small filter on the bottom of the pump on the inside and it's permanently attached. Replacing the pump also replaces the filter. No in-line filter.

[gloria's edge]

That's correct. The only fuel filter is a small filter on the bottom of the pump on the inside and it's permanently attached. Replacing the pump also replaces the filter. No in-line filter.

Thanks for the confirmation!

[racer5c]

wish me luck, this weekends job! Thanks for the detailed info!!

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Good luck! Make sure you have the trim ring removal tool handy, other than that should be straightforward.

[chefduane]

This is an excellent post! Thanks! I guess Ford maybe heard from the zillions of Gen2 Explorer owners (including me) who cut a hole underneath the passenger seat to get to a failed fuel pump. It was either that, or unhook all the electricals and the filler tube/neck, drop the tank (a major PITA) to get to the pump assy which was mounted in the top of the tank.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Yeah well they did away with the access in 2010. Back to dropping the tank.

[chefduane]

That seems strange. Why would they not provide an access door, then decide to put one in, then decide to not put one in? Have the Edges always had an access door?

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

2007-9 have access doors, but thats it. Not sure on gen 2.

[Platinum White]

2007-9 have access doors, but thats it. Not sure on gen 2.

 

Too many DIY's out there. It is intended to force you to a stealership and $$$$ out of your pocket.

[kcocaep]

Thank you for the detailed post. I have a 2010 SEL AWD (manufactured in 2009).

 

In my case, I ordered the oem pump, unbolted the back seat, pulled up the carpet and was greeted to a tiny access hole instead of an access cover. I guess all Edges were not made alike. I ended up bringing it to a shop so they could drop the tank and install the pump for me.

 

Part number: 8T4Z-9H307-A

The reason I changed the pump was because it was making a pulsing sound. Youtube video of sound here:

 

https://youtu.be/zc7mBZUPuq8

Ford Instructions to Service Sender and Pump Assembly - Fuel Tank.pdf

Edited October 20, 2017 by kcocaep

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Unfortunate, but true. As noted earlier, they made the change, and many other changes in 2010 ... Does your Edge run better after the fuel pump change?

[thegeoguy]

Great write up, did the job in a couple hours, I bought a Delphi brand pump and it makes a little more noise than the factory one did but just a slight hum.

 

I did hear some bubbling/gurgling sounds for a moment after the swap while it was running, any idea what the cause might have been? Runs great at all speeds and has plenty of power.

[macbwt]

most likely air being purged from the repair.

[Yamaspeed]

Yeah well they did away with the access in 2010. Back to dropping the ta

 

 

I have a 2010 AWD Limited and it does have the access hatch. Weird.

[Yamaspeed]

Big thanks tot the OP for this writeup. My pump is making the exact same noise as noted above. Getting worse. sort of sounds like a wood chipper now. I ordered a new pump and will replace this week. Using a Napa Brand pump.

[kcocaep]

Update: The Motorcraft replacement pump I ordered from Rockauto worked well for almost 2 years but the pulsing noise returned. Fortunately there is a 2-year warranty. I used the same shop as before but this time the fuel guage is not working after installing the pump. They suspect a faulty sending unit on the pump so I'm going to see if I can get a 3rd pump but I'm concerned that I won't be able to ship a used fuel pump in the mail.