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Access Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel


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  • 2 weeks later...

You just push the harness wires into specific locations the back of the mirrors wiring connector, and use the two wire ties provided to anchor the harness to the mirror.

 

(With microphone):

(+) is pin #1, blue with orange stripe, (-) is pin #10. Wire color is black. Pos is on the accessory delay circuit, fuse #41.

 

When looking a face of connector with release tab down, pin 1 is lower left, pin 10 is upper right. (Reverse of looking at back of connector).

 

Without microphone:

(+) is pin #1 (blue with orange stripe,

(-) is pin #2 (without lighted sunvisors) or pin #3 (with lighted visors).

 

Connector has 7 wires and is numbered 1-7 starting from left when viewed face on and release tab is on bottom.

 

Ford Edge and Lincoln MKX use .080" taps for 2007-2009 and .050" for 2010+.

 

If your mounting something other than a radar detector, you could either modify an existing harness with a different connector or make your own (not hard, two wires & a connector). You could also contact Mirror Tap and see if they would be willing to make you a special harness (perhaps if you furnished the correct connector).

 

Need to use a stiff wire or solder wires to a pin of the right diameter to be able to push into connector next to existing wires.

Edited by enigma-2
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  • 4 weeks later...

Why the shit did Ford use micro2 and micro3 fuses on the inside panel. I cannot find a single place that sells micro fuse taps, or micro fuses in Ontario. Only option is to buy them online and wait 3 months to get them from china. Luckily the fuse taps are available on dash cam websites.

 

Update: Dealer sells the fuses for 10 bucks a piece. Haven't been able to find anything online that actually fits correctly.

Edited by Beezz
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Why the shit did Ford use micro2 and micro3 fuses on the inside panel. I cannot find a single place that sells micro fuse taps, or micro fuses in Ontario. Only option is to buy them online and wait 3 months to get them from china. Luckily the fuse taps are available on dash cam websites.

Perhaps their sold at your local Ford dealer?
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  • 1 month later...

I found that the fuses that are labeled unused or spare in the manual are still powered (with both acc and batt function). I also found 2 fuses labeled unused in the manual that had the fuse plugged in the 'correct' way, which was odd because the rest of the 'unused' fuses were plugged in so the numbers were upside down. Given this, I assumed I could tap into any of them as long as it was done safely.




I've been running a dashcam off fuse 37 (used fuse 23 for 2 months) (fuse 37 is for the heated steering wheel which I dont have) and fuse 16 for 5 months now without any problems. Has anyone had issues with 'add a fuse' connectors not staying plugged into the fuse socket? Mine wouldn't stay in so I had to put a piece of tape across the fuse box. I put the ground underneath another ground located behind the slide out tray towards the steering column.



Fuse taps:


https://www.blackboxmycar.com/collections/blackboxmycar-essential-installation-tools/products/add-a-fuse (micro 2 option)


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  • 1 month later...

Hello, New guy here . My 2007 ege bought used was missing the fuse compartment plastic panel door probably due to some work adding accessories. After some checking with a meter, I found a ground about 8 inches above the panel on the firewall with a 5/16 bolt sticking out. Added a ring connector and a 5/16 nut to it and got a good ground for my radar detector. Then checking the fuse box, fuse 33 "spare" is hot when the ign switch is turned on. So plugged in a "add a fuse" to 33 and wired it to pos on detector wire. Works perfect.

 

Now all I have to do is find a u pull it to replace the plastic trim panel. Also may need a trip to chiropractor after squeezing my fatness under the dash.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I tried using the Micro Fuse to attach my Escort Radar detector using their smart cord. Unfortunately the micro fuse doesnt work for me as the legs that protrude into the socket are too short and I get no power. Any ideas?

 

I have a Focus ST and that worked like a charm, i figured it would be just as easy but the location of the fuse box is ridiculous.

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I tried using the Micro Fuse to attach my Escort Radar detector using their smart cord. Unfortunately the micro fuse doesnt work for me as the legs that protrude into the socket are too short and I get no power. Any ideas?

 

I have a Focus ST and that worked like a charm, i figured it would be just as easy but the location of the fuse box is ridiculous.

Are the fuse taps legs shorter than the oem micro2 fuse?

If not; insert it and right before it should lock in, try to push at an angle toward the firewall (gently) and the fuse tap should lock in enough to stay in place.

Edited by Beezz
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  • 2 months later...

Those of you that tapped into the fuse box, where did you make your ground connection at?

 

Old thread, but for those using a fuse tap at the internal fuse panel, I used the lower nut/stud that is holding the fuse panel as a ground. For my Dashcam I used the fuse at the top (37?) since it is very hard to get the fuse tapping connector yo fit anywhere else.

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  • 3 months later...

I am afraid I never ended up talking to a tech at the dealers. I think if you could get the little cubby drawer out you might be able to get at it. I am afraid of breaking the drawer so I gave up for now.

That cubby drawer even has an electrical lightning symbol ( at least on my 16 )

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Old thread, but for those using a fuse tap at the internal fuse panel, I used the lower nut/stud that is holding the fuse panel as a ground. For my Dashcam I used the fuse at the top (37?) since it is very hard to get the fuse tapping connector yo fit anywhere else.

On my 16 I'm pretty sure #37 is on the bottom, left side ( pretty hard to see but it appears that way ) 23 is at the top

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  • 5 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi guys, nice to meet you. (2017 European Edge).

 

 

Since this was the first link that came up for me, I decided to make an account to help the next guy out.

Open the little slide-down cubby to the left of the steering wheel. Note that embossed in the panel behind the drawer are the fuse box symbols, indicating we are on the right track. Put your hand into the drawer, palm up, fingers against the top. Using even pressure, pull the inset panel (and drawer) straight out. There are four little pressure lips that will pop if you do it right, then the whole drawer assembly comes out.

From there if you shine a light in you can at least see the fuses. Hardly designed for easy access, but if you know which one is likely blown (see manual) you should be able to find the proper one to pull out to change.

When done, the drawer assembly pops back on; just apply even pressure to both sides. Verify the drawer slides smoothly, close it, and you are done.

 

Subscribe to TomDibble's post above. This is the right way to do it!

 

For the A-pillar, I didn't have to pop it off. There was enough give to just slip the wiring under it using a trim tool (essentially a plastic butterknife). Actually didn't pop any panels off. Easily slipped under the rear view mirror pod and headliner.

 

I have a mini0806 cam in mine, but looking to upgrade. Couple of the higher end models have multi-channel for front/back and built in wi-fi and iPhone/Android app enabled viewer. Was looking at the BlackVue DR650GW 2CH today, but might be too pricey.

 

 

If you are careful, you can pop A pillar cover out without problems. DON'T take it out completely (it's kept in place by some elastic rubber).

 

post-48385-0-87599300-1507716800_thumb.jpg

 

Heated steering wheel fuse (37) should do the trick with an add-a-fuse ... work still in progress. I will revert!

 

 

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Yes I was looking to add a usb port back of the sun glass holder in council behind the rear view mirror. There is enough room to do so.

I assume I could tap off of the power for the skylight.

 

So yes ford designers, a usb port behind the mirror please. These Dash cams are the future acessories , so roll with the times: )

Edited by Intranetsites
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  • 10 months later...

For my dashcam, I ran my wiring down inside the A-pillar, and then over to the center console, where I tapped into the 12-volt power outlet that is visible on the passenger side of the console.

 

Under the original "as built" software settings, that power outlet would stay "hot" for up to an hour after exiting the vehicle (thereby leaving my dashcam continuing to record needlessly), but I then used ForScan to change the settings on my power outlets to turn-off immediately, as you turn off the ignition, and it's worked great ever since!

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