msawdust Posted November 20, 2015 Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 How do you access the fuse panel in the dash to the left of the steering wheel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WingNut Posted November 20, 2015 Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 Maybe check the owners manual? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msawdust Posted November 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 The owners manual says it is left of the steering wheel and removing the flat trim piece may be necessary and makes no reference on which piece that is or how to get it off. Thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted November 20, 2015 Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 It should be obvious. Should be about the size of a medium sized book with lots of wires going in and out. The cover just snaps on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redlancer Posted November 21, 2015 Report Share Posted November 21, 2015 It should be obvious. Should be about the size of a medium sized book with lots of wires going in and out. The cover just snaps on. I think he means the interior fuse panel, not engine compartment. I was also trying to access it and ford doesn't make it easy. I looked for the trim piece they mention in the manual and didnt see anything obvious. Finally just stuck my head under the and it's way back there, not easy to get to. Even if you did pull off some trim still would be hard to get a hand in there... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msawdust Posted November 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2015 Thanks for understanding the question. I am going to the dealer Monday about something else and see how they do it. I like to know how to get at these fuses if and when the need arises. Probably never need to access these fuses but it would be nice to know how just in case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted November 22, 2015 Report Share Posted November 22, 2015 That's exactly what I was talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redlancer Posted November 22, 2015 Report Share Posted November 22, 2015 That's exactly what I was talking about. Usually yes, all my previous vehicles the interior fuse panel is just behind an access cover and then you can get to all the fuses. The one in the 2015 Edge is way, way back, behind quite a bit of other wiring, pretty much on the firewall behind the steering column. Even knowing where it is I'm not sure I could change a blown fuse. I wanted to hard-wire in my dashcam to a acc circuit and I still haven't been able to get a fuse tap onto any of the circuits. So if a Ford dealer knows a trick I'm all ears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jb124 Posted December 19, 2015 Report Share Posted December 19, 2015 Hi. I am also having trouble with accessing the fuse box so I can hardwire my dash cam. After reading this thread, I saw what yas meant about the panel being way up on the firewall. No way I can get to that. Anyone have luck with removing trim panels? If so, got a photo pointing to the one you removed? I get nervous doing anything near an airbag, and there's one under the steering wheel. I tried searching online for videos but came up empty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msawdust Posted December 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2015 I am afraid I never ended up talking to a tech at the dealers. I think if you could get the little cubby drawer out you might be able to get at it. I am afraid of breaking the drawer so I gave up for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MNTNedge Posted December 20, 2015 Report Share Posted December 20, 2015 Hey guys, I just made an account so I could post here. I have a 15 sport and wanted my radar and dash cam hard wired. I talked to the service tech at my dealership, and they said that the little sliding tray does not come out. It seems like it should. I had to basically lie on my back and get my arms up there while holding a flashlight in my mouth. I had to experiment with the fuses, and unlike many cars the fuse box in not powered by the accessory from the key. Many fuses have power all the time, including the spare or empty ones. The fuse you want to tap is the Delayed Accessory #23. This way your cam will turn off with your stereo when you open the door. You also want to use the Micro2 fuse tap. I got mine of Amazon for about 10 dollars. Hope this helps. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redlancer Posted December 20, 2015 Report Share Posted December 20, 2015 Thanks MNTN, that does help. Getting under there is hard enough, not having to experiment on what fuse to tap will make things a lot easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jb124 Posted December 20, 2015 Report Share Posted December 20, 2015 Darn. OK, thanks for the info!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MNTNedge Posted December 20, 2015 Report Share Posted December 20, 2015 Yeah, It is a bit of a trick to get up there. I am not a small guy, so you guys should be able to do it. It is less painful with a beer. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted December 21, 2015 Report Share Posted December 21, 2015 Just a note - all circuits go through a fuse somewhere whether it's hot all the time or switched with the ignition and that goes for all makes and models. What has happened is more and more things are controlled by computer modules so most of the circuits are always hot. It would be nice if they gave you a spare hot and switched to use for your own stuff. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redlancer Posted December 21, 2015 Report Share Posted December 21, 2015 Thanks MNTN, was able to get up in there and finally get my dash cam hardwired. Good advice on the circuit #23, was way easier to pull one and be done. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MNTNedge Posted December 21, 2015 Report Share Posted December 21, 2015 Good to hear, and glad I could help. Akirby is correct. Many of these new vehicles control the circuits via computer modules, that is why we can program how long some of the delays take and all that fun stuff. You can do it JB124. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WingNut Posted December 21, 2015 Report Share Posted December 21, 2015 Just a note - all circuits go through a fuse somewhere whether it's hot all the time or switched with the ignition and that goes for all makes and models. What has happened is more and more things are controlled by computer modules so most of the circuits are always hot. It would be nice if they gave you a spare hot and switched to use for your own stuff. It would be nice if there was some sort of standard(s) the industry could use for accessories like radar detectors and dash cams. Yea we have the 12v plug, but that is outdated. A simple connector that has power that is located in the rear view mirror. Something similar to a micro-USB that the electronics industry could all use on their devices. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chipster Posted December 21, 2015 Report Share Posted December 21, 2015 (edited) After reading this thread I am left to wonder if added loads on the above mentioned circuits / fuses will at some point create an condition that creates an atypical load that is read (by the controlling BCM or ECM) as a fault and throws a code? Edited December 21, 2015 by Chipster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MNTNedge Posted December 21, 2015 Report Share Posted December 21, 2015 After reading this thread I am left to wonder if added loads on the above mentioned circuits / fuses will at some point create an condition that creates an atypical load that is read (by the controlling BCM or ECM) as a fault and throws a code? I don't think it is a problem. I have been running a Escort Max radar detector and a dash cam on the same circuit for 6 months now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted December 21, 2015 Report Share Posted December 21, 2015 It would be nice if there was some sort of standard(s) the industry could use for accessories like radar detectors and dash cams. Yea we have the 12v plug, but that is outdated. A simple connector that has power that is located in the rear view mirror. Something similar to a micro-USB that the electronics industry could all use on their devices. Actually there is, sort of. Called Mirror Tap. Harness that basically pushes into the mirror connector. Quick and easy. I have my Escort Passport II radar detector powered through one. Switched power, stays on after you turn off the car. Powers off when you open the door. Search on Amazon.com. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jb124 Posted December 22, 2015 Report Share Posted December 22, 2015 I plan on trying again over x-mas. It's supposed to get up to 50 or 60 this weekend so I should be able to find a spot somewhere and give it a go (I don't have a good spot to work at home). I have two really nice magnetic-mounted LED flashlights with 'lantern' effects I plan on using so I don't have to keep one in my mouth, like MTMN had to do, hehe. I already have the fuse tap thing and a hardwire kit, I just need to prepare for personal origami so I can reach the fuses. Oh, anyone have any issues with the A-pillar and popping the trim off? I only found one relevant Ford-related video on YouTube and it advised against taking the A-pillar trim all the way off because of some expensive clip/bracket that would break or there was a chance of triggering the air bag (it wasn't a 2015 Edge but a 2015 f-150). I never had that issue with my 3 previous Fords but my new Edge has a million airbags so I'm trying to be careful. I plan on doing the usual thing where you loosen/remove the screws on the driver's visor mounts to thread the wires from the cam across the top of the windshield and then go down the A-pillar to the fuse box. If this is not the right plan, please let me know. Dunno what cams you guys are using but I'm very satisfied with the Auto-Vox B40-C ($70-75 on Amazon). I'm still using it in cigarette mode but it has super-detailed video and audio; it even has a crash/save feature where it will save the most recent vid in a protected area if it detects a crash. Not sure if I'm allowed to 'promote' a product on these forums, so please let me know if I'm out of line. I got some other decent accessories I'll post in another folder/thread, if I don't get in trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redlancer Posted December 22, 2015 Report Share Posted December 22, 2015 For the A-pillar, I didn't have to pop it off. There was enough give to just slip the wiring under it using a trim tool (essentially a plastic butterknife). Actually didn't pop any panels off. Easily slipped under the rear view mirror pod and headliner. I have a mini0806 cam in mine, but looking to upgrade. Couple of the higher end models have multi-channel for front/back and built in wi-fi and iPhone/Android app enabled viewer. Was looking at the BlackVue DR650GW 2CH today, but might be too pricey. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomDibble Posted March 19, 2016 Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 Since this was the first link that came up for me, I decided to make an account to help the next guy out. Open the little slide-down cubby to the left of the steering wheel. Note that embossed in the panel behind the drawer are the fuse box symbols, indicating we are on the right track. Put your hand into the drawer, palm up, fingers against the top. Using even pressure, pull the inset panel (and drawer) straight out. There are four little pressure lips that will pop if you do it right, then the whole drawer assembly comes out. From there if you shine a light in you can at least see the fuses. Hardly designed for easy access, but if you know which one is likely blown (see manual) you should be able to find the proper one to pull out to change. When done, the drawer assembly pops back on; just apply even pressure to both sides. Verify the drawer slides smoothly, close it, and you are done. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjh Posted March 20, 2016 Report Share Posted March 20, 2016 Since this was the first link that came up for me, I decided to make an account to help the next guy out. Open the little slide-down cubby to the left of the steering wheel. Note that embossed in the panel behind the drawer are the fuse box symbols, indicating we are on the right track. Put your hand into the drawer, palm up, fingers against the top. Using even pressure, pull the inset panel (and drawer) straight out. There are four little pressure lips that will pop if you do it right, then the whole drawer assembly comes out. From there if you shine a light in you can at least see the fuses. Hardly designed for easy access, but if you know which one is likely blown (see manual) you should be able to find the proper one to pull out to change. When done, the drawer assembly pops back on; just apply even pressure to both sides. Verify the drawer slides smoothly, close it, and you are done. Thanks for that info! Very helpful. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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