WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 Wow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 (edited) The service department completed the solenoid and air bag work and returned it to the collision centre who had it ready for me to collect this afternoon. This dealership is conveniently located on my way to work, so I'll stick with them - I had the service advisor linked to my file changed, and back with the one I always dealt with when I took my previous company car there. They obviously don't wipe the plastic drain plug before reinstalling it, or it's leaking - I cleaned it and the area around the solenoid and will check in in a few hundred miles. Edit: See attached picture showing the leaking solenoid that was changed. Edited October 4, 2017 by 1004ron 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xephiron Posted October 4, 2017 Report Share Posted October 4, 2017 (edited) If you guys are really interested in baby'ing your turbos and engine, why not step up to a premium full synthetic? Most mainstream synthetics these days are not even fully synthetic thanks to the Mobil vs. Castrol Syntec lawsuit back in the late 90's that forever changed what the real definition of a synthetic is. Just keep in mind though that many of the premium synthetics are not API or SAE certified as they often utilize an additive package that is too robust and could potentially(not likely but within the realm of extreme possibilities) cause damage to sensitive emissions control components like O2 sensors and even the cats. Examples of premium synthetics are Amsoil Signature Series, Redline, Mobil 1 extended performance, and Pennzoil platinum. Of these, I believe only the Mobil 1 EP and Pennzoil platinum are API and/or SAE certified. I am currently running Amsoil Signature Series 5w30 right now in the Sport and run Mobil 1 EP in my Toyota. I previously owned a Nissan 350z and then a BMW 335i. in the 350z I started using Mobil 1 full sythetic but I noticed after a while it was leaving black exhaust residue on the back of my car. I also noticed temps weren't any different from the stock oil. I changed over to Redline and the black crap stopped and average track temperatures dropped by about 5 degrees. In the 335i, same results when switching from the BMW stock Euro-Castrol blend over to Redline oil. 5-10 degrees cooler at the track. I later added Redline water-wetter to the radiator and dropped another 3-5 degrees. Redline is the real deal. It is ether-based and seems to work much better than newer type synthetics for keeping temperatures cool. Usually runs about 12-14 dollars per quart... I do plan to use it in this 2.7EB as well: engine oil, radiator additive, transmission fluid if applicable (my 1st automatic lol) , and differential fluid. The 335i also had a top mounted open-element filter, with o-rings, and for comparison I never found anywhere but the dealer to buy them. OEM, yep, but they worked great! FYI I never had issues with O2 sensors, etc. using Redline and the 335i was also a DI TT engine that I am sure is just as advanced if not more so... Edited October 4, 2017 by Xephiron 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted October 4, 2017 Report Share Posted October 4, 2017 I previously owned a Nissan 350z and then a BMW 335i. in the 350z I started using Mobil 1 full sythetic but I noticed after a while it was leaving black exhaust residue on the back of my car. I also noticed temps weren't any different from the stock oil. I changed over to Redline and the black crap stopped and average track temperatures dropped by about 5 degrees. In the 335i, same results when switching from the BMW stock Euro-Castrol blend over to Redline oil. 5-10 degrees cooler at the track. I later added Redline water-wetter to the radiator and dropped another 3-5 degrees. Redline is the real deal. It is ether-based and seems to work much better than newer type synthetics for keeping temperatures cool. Usually runs about 12-14 dollars per quart... I do plan to use it in this 2.7EB as well: engine oil, radiator additive, transmission fluid if applicable (my 1st automatic lol) , and differential fluid. The 335i also had a top mounted open-element filter, with o-rings, and for comparison I never found anywhere but the dealer to buy them. OEM, yep, but they worked great! FYI I never had issues with O2 sensors, etc. using Redline and the 335i was also a DI TT engine that I am sure is just as advanced if not more so... What temperature indication were you referring to above? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xephiron Posted October 6, 2017 Report Share Posted October 6, 2017 What temperature indication were you referring to above? water/coolant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted October 7, 2017 Report Share Posted October 7, 2017 water/coolant The coolant temperature is regulated by the thermostat, so not representative of the anti-friction properties of the oil. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted October 8, 2017 Report Share Posted October 8, 2017 Also controlled by the PCM through the ECT ( basically a thermistor) to lean out or enrich the mixture if it's running cool or hot. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xephiron Posted October 11, 2017 Report Share Posted October 11, 2017 (edited) The coolant temperature is regulated by the thermostat, so not representative of the anti-friction properties of the oil. The temperature gauge underneath the tachometer in the BMW. I assumed it was water... maybe it was oil. Either way, it ran cooler. Hey, I am just the driver lol... EDIT: Yeah, lol definitely oil. Here is a pic: Ran around 240-250 unless at track, would get up near 260. After Redline, Never got above about 248 even at the track. Normal driving it stayed down around 240. Edited October 11, 2017 by Xephiron 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted October 11, 2017 Report Share Posted October 11, 2017 The temperature gauge underneath the tachometer in the BMW. I assumed it was water... maybe it was oil. Either way, it ran cooler. Hey, I am just the driver lol... EDIT: Yeah, lol definitely oil. Here is a pic: temp gauge.jpg Ran around 240-250 unless at track, would get up near 260. After Redline, Never got above about 248 even at the track. Normal driving it stayed down around 240. The automatic control of the coolant will also have a greater impact on the oil temperature than the anti-frication properties of the oil, so its more likely some other influence such as ambient temperature that you noticed. Redline products are good, but in my opinion you're using the wrong thing to gage its performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xephiron Posted October 13, 2017 Report Share Posted October 13, 2017 The automatic control of the coolant will also have a greater impact on the oil temperature than the anti-frication properties of the oil, so its more likely some other influence such as ambient temperature that you noticed. Redline products are good, but in my opinion you're using the wrong thing to gage its performance. Either way, it was a constant result measured over 6 years of track use I am certainly convinced. To each their own 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted October 14, 2017 Report Share Posted October 14, 2017 Either way, it was a constant result measured over 6 years of track use I am certainly convinced. To each their own Redline is most certainly one of the top lubricant brands, but your coolant or oil temperature observations aren't really a measure of the oils performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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