WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 This article shows you how to approximate remaining usable tread. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=51 Tire mfrs typically build in wear "bars" also, not sure what your particular tire is set up for. Tires CAN last that long, but are they safe ... Whole 'nother story. A typical life span is 5-7 years from manufacture to discard. If you do a lot of highway driving, you can rack up a good many miles in a short time, but wear out the tread quickly, for example. When tires start to crack or dryrot, best to start looking for replacements. An alignment will be necessary to maximize the new tires' life. Also have the TPMS checked to make sure the sensors have good battery remaining. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 The truth on your tires. When you get to the point you show in your photograph your tire have a higher potential for failure due to punctures. You will also have a higher potential for hydroplaning. If those were my tires I would be replacing them. Alignments are always separate from tire purchases. Do the struts first then buy tires and have the alignment done at the same time. Then you will be good to go. Never put new tires on with old worn struts or other worn suspension components. Shuddering could be many things, but the PTU jumps out at me first. WWW? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 Could be the PTU, but you will have some other symptoms first like a whine or a grinding noise or a leaking vent. Since the symptom has been localized to the front DRIVER side, I am favoring an axle issue at this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DunePearlEdge Posted July 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2015 Thanks again you two. Does the steering fluid ever need to be flushed/changed on the Edge or does it last the life of the vehicle? When I buy new tires I plan to keep 1 of the old tires and mount it a steelie to use as a full size spare. Is there a good place to buy a steelie? It always looked like the first generation Limited Edge came with a steelie with a chrome wheel cover glued to it. Finally, when the tires are off, is it a good time to change the tire pressure monitor sensor batteries or replace all the sensors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted July 29, 2015 Report Share Posted July 29, 2015 Yes, steering fluid should be changed/flushed periodically. Any hydraulic system will get clogged with debris from weasr and tear over time. There is no set interval for power steering fluid, butdoing it at the same time as a trans fluid change would be a good idea. And I don't mean 150,000 miles either. 60,000 is the latest I'd wait. Good time to check the tpms sensors is when new tires asre being installed. Your installer should be able to advise you on keeping or replacing them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted July 29, 2015 Report Share Posted July 29, 2015 In other words do not wait until 260K miles to change the power steering fluid out like some people on this forum. LOL Yes, steering fluid should be changed/flushed periodically. Any hydraulic system will get clogged with debris from weasr and tear over time. There is no set interval for power steering fluid, butdoing it at the same time as a trans fluid change would be a good idea. And I don't mean 150,000 miles either. 60,000 is the latest I'd wait.Good time to check the tpms sensors is when new tires asre being installed. Your installer should be able to advise you on keeping or replacing them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DunePearlEdge Posted July 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2015 I won't wait until 260K to do it, haha. Is there a particular color the steering fluid becomes that lets you know it's time to change it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted July 30, 2015 Report Share Posted July 30, 2015 You have a long list of items to address, starting with the struts. The power steering fluid can wait and it will be fine until you take care of the other items. Just put it on your todo list. The color is a clearish amber I believe. Also note if you turn out to have a power steering leak then when that is repaired the fluid change will happen. Back story on power steering. It had 260K miles on it and the hose broke or leaked so bad I was adding a bottle everyother day. When the tech replaced the hose he asked me if I wanted the power steering fluid flushed and changed out. Told him I already did it after six bottles of fluid had leaked out. I won't wait until 260K to do it, haha. Is there a particular color the steering fluid becomes that lets you know it's time to change it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted July 30, 2015 Report Share Posted July 30, 2015 (edited) The trans and power steering fluids are one and the same for your Edge, Dune. Both use Mercon V spec fluid. So should be pink-red when "healthy". If you take a sample of the PS fluid shortly after you are done driving it and feel it with your fingers/put it through a coffee filter and it is dirty/gritty, it is a good time for a change/flush. Edited July 30, 2015 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DunePearlEdge Posted July 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2015 That's good to know, the teams fluid is nice and red and the power steering fluid is brown. I'll pull some out and see what it feels like. I have many parts on order, in the mean time I attempted to get an alignment but the passenger wheel rocked so much they said there was no point to an getting an alignment. Now I've ordered new tie-mood ends. Could the wetness in the pictures in the first post be power steering fluid or does the consistency look more like oil? I bumped a curb at 5mph a few months ago and maybe that caused damage/misalignment. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted July 31, 2015 Report Share Posted July 31, 2015 Tie rods are easy and can be done in the driveway. Just remember to have the alignment done right after you finish. Again do the work with all the suspension stuff first then get the tires mounted and alignment done. Then you should be good to go. I am hoping about late August to install new rear shocks and front struts and will of course make the video on this topic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DunePearlEdge Posted August 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 Although not a flush, can I drain the steering fluid from the bottom (somewhere on the rack?), close it up and then refill the reservoir from the top? Similar to an oil change than a flush, maybe this will replace 75% of the fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted August 1, 2015 Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 Drain from the reservoir using a turkey baster - a popular choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted August 1, 2015 Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 There is no real "good" way to do this and the connections have sensitivities to the seals and cross threading that make it difficult to actually do. If you drain it using a baster then refill it will be like taking and draining your transmission then refilling. Won't get it all but will refresh. Let it cycle for a few hundred miles then do it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DunePearlEdge Posted August 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 New outer tie-rods are on and the car is aligned! I needed a MAP torch for the driver side. The front end feels much better although not perfect. In your spark plug video macbwt you're cleaning the engine before doing the spark plugs. This seems like a good idea to avoid debris falling into the engine. For those without access to compressed air, is there a liquid cleaner for safe use in the engine bay than can be sprayed to the engine bay and then wiped? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 Not really. I took a can of compressed air (like they use for computers) and cleaned the vicinity of the coils. You really don't have to worry about much after that, as the boots on the coils are bolted down and are designed to keep the spark plug wells clean. If you doing this work in a garage or covered area, you should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 I really cleaned mostly due to the intake not for the plugs. If I did not have to remove the intake I would of just removed the coils and changed the plugs. As you could see I like to collect acorns in the air intake box. Just how I roll. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DunePearlEdge Posted August 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 Good to know that cleaning isn't essential. Acorns are how you roll- haha! Just to confirm, use throttle body cleaner when cleaning the throttle body and use carb cleaner to clean gunk out of the intake ports once they are exposed? Or can throttle body cleaner be used for both? Does it matter which is used to clean out the existing PCV if the original still looks useable? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted August 9, 2015 Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 Throttle body cleaner will work for all applications you mentioned. No point using carb cleaner at all really. Just remember not to let any liquid pool when you address the intake manifold or the intake valves. Don't want the engine getting hydrolocked. Drain everything with a pipette or a turkey baster. If in doubt, leave the intake manifold/ports alone. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted August 9, 2015 Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 Agreed. Throttle body cleaner will work for all applications you mentioned. No point using carb cleaner at all really. Just remember not to let any liquid pool when you address the intake manifold or the intake valves. Don't want the engine getting hydrolocked. Drain everything with a pipette or a turkey baster. If in doubt, leave the intake manifold/ports alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DunePearlEdge Posted August 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 Gotcha, thanks guys. Is there a recommended torque at which to tighten the spark plugs? Is there anything that can be done with the old ones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted August 9, 2015 Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 (edited) Just make them snug. Do not over tighten since you are working with aluminum that would make for a bad day. I worked slowly with my change out because the engine was HOT. Cooler engine is a better choice. I have not had one issue and did not used a torque wrench on the plugs. I did use a torque wrench on the intake and followed the pattern and torque specs. Not to mention the 45 degree turn after you hit the torque point on the intake. OH make sure you regrease the boots on the coils with dielectric grease. Unless you plan on selling it then the next guy that buys it can call you names. Edited August 9, 2015 by macbwt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 11 ft-lb is the official torque on the spark plugs. You should install them with light force. Once they resist being turned anymore (assuming the threading goes smoothly), you can turn the plug 1/4 or 1/8 more to finalize the seating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DunePearlEdge Posted August 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 Got it. My PCV is the heated variety. Is there anyway to determine if it is broken? The little ball inside bounced around freely and the ends weren't clogged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 If it rattles freely, it is likely fine. Just spray the heck out of it with TBC and/or MAF cleaner to get it as clean as possible. The only other thing to check would be that the heater element is working, but no reason it should not. Not sure if a continuity test with a voltmeter would be sufficient to check it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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