edgeboy Posted January 18, 2008 Report Share Posted January 18, 2008 Anybody buy the trailer harness from Ford? Wondering if that is a simpler install than all the aftermarkets. Also, has anybody used Uhaul to put the harness in. The harness looks much more difficult than the hitch itself. tks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danmarco Posted April 24, 2008 Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 I purchased my harness from Etrailer.com I installed it myself and it was relatively easy but time comsuming. The instructions are straight forward and easy to follow. The tail lights have to be removed to plug in the T connector and the side panelling has to be partially removed. You can go to etrailer.com and get the instructions. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mystery Posted May 30, 2008 Report Share Posted May 30, 2008 I purchased my harness from Etrailer.com I installed it myself and it was relatively easy but time comsuming. The instructions are straight forward and easy to follow. The tail lights have to be removed to plug in the T connector and the side panelling has to be partially removed. You can go to etrailer.com and get the instructions. Dan I just had my harness done by Ford, and I was told that it was a difficult install. It took 4.5 hours to do. The tech said he could have done it quicker but to do it right took that long. Thankfully they covered the cost of the harness and install because of some bad experiences with the sales process. Does anyone have any photos of any hitches they installed that may help me choose one? Are there any that do not require the exhaust to be lowered? That is the next step for me. Thanks. Mystery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Talionis Posted May 30, 2008 Report Share Posted May 30, 2008 It took 4.5 hours to do. The tech said he could have done it quicker but to do it right took that long. Thankfully they covered the cost of the harness and install because of some bad experiences with the sales process. that is dealer code for.. "it only took us 1 hour, but we got this guy thinking it took 4.5 hours and he really scored - now he feels good and indebted to us for hooking him up" Does anyone have any photos of any hitches they installed that may help me choose one? Are there any that do not require the exhaust to be lowered? That is the next step for me. if you use the search function, you will find many threads on hitches.. but this is by far the best click here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mountain Tripper Posted May 31, 2008 Report Share Posted May 31, 2008 that is dealer code for.. "it only took us 1 hour, but we got this guy thinking it took 4.5 hours and he really scored - now he feels good and indebted to us for hooking him up" You are right about the time. It takes 4.5 hours to install the hitch and the wiring harness. It takes 1 hour to install the harness and 3.5 hours to install the hitch because the bumper has to be changed and the shroud needs to be cut to allow the hitch to pass through. Looks better because the whole thing sets above the shroud. There is a pattern inside the shroud for the cut out. Part costs about the same as the after market,just a lot more work. if you use the search function, you will find many threads on hitches.. but this is by far the best click here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mystery Posted June 2, 2008 Report Share Posted June 2, 2008 Thanks. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milkman1960 Posted June 5, 2008 Report Share Posted June 5, 2008 I installed the Ford factory Harness today. I would say the 4.5 hours is about right! You have to take both rear panels off. Is not that difficult as said above but time consuming. I looked at the Uhaul harness and they use squeeze on connectors that cut into the wire. Ford harness says to soldier and use shrink sleeves to cover the connection. I did it the ford way. I know the ford harness also has a lead you connect to the battery for it's power for the box, not sure the others have this and how it will affect the operation of the lights in the long term. I did take a bunch of pictures during the install, if I have time I will post them. I am glad it is done! I also want to check into the oil cooler, larger Radiator and fans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Talionis Posted June 5, 2008 Report Share Posted June 5, 2008 I installed the Ford factory Harness today. I would say the 4.5 hours is about right! You have to take both rear panels off. Is not that difficult as said above but time consuming. I looked at the Uhaul harness and they use squeeze on connectors that cut into the wire. Ford harness says to soldier and use shrink sleeves to cover the connection. I did it the ford way. I know the ford harness also has a lead you connect to the battery for it's power for the box, not sure the others have this and how it will affect the operation of the lights in the long term. I did take a bunch of pictures during the install, if I have time I will post them. I am glad it is done! I also want to check into the oil cooler, larger Radiator and fans. photos would be GREAT as you are only one of a few who have posted up about doing the harness wiring yourself & took photos. it would help to have that here as a reference for sure. I know I would review it for future reference. BTW, yes, all of the kits must run a power wire is that is how the computer brain "box" that runs the system, which works in tandem with and protects the Edge's electronics, gets power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milkman1960 Posted June 8, 2008 Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 (edited) You can find the directions on Ford.com I have a 2008, the directions say 2007 but they worked just fine. Not the best walk through but the pictures might help. with subwoofer removed Red power wire route under drivers door kick panel Red power wire route under passenger door kick panel. There is a wire protector to run the wire through. You will see the harness allready running through. Cutt the tape on the factory harness. gray wire with brown stripe connects to the yellow wire from the relay box. I cut the harness and the soldered and covered with a shrink sleeve. Picture of drivers side shrink sleeves completed. Follow the directions and you should be fine. Picture of Passenger side shrink sleeve completed. Wire harness completed with new tape wrapped around. trailer relay box in final location. It has a pre attacthed adhesive (peel and stick). Another view Completed fuse link (red wire) attached at fuse box under the hood Edited June 8, 2008 by milkman1960 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Talionis Posted June 8, 2008 Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 NICE.. well done.. good to see someone do a very complete post on a tricky install like this (wiring is tricky for most people).. this will beomce the thread to read and review on this topic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaak in TO Posted July 19, 2008 Report Share Posted July 19, 2008 I noticed the pix abover were great. They said to see ford.com to see how it's done. Where on Ford.com would one see these? I do have a 2008 Edge w/class 2 factory installed. I would like to see how the cargo area panels are removed. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milkman1960 Posted August 11, 2008 Report Share Posted August 11, 2008 Trailer wiring harness install guide sk_7t4j_15a416_aa__all.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gradywhite Posted November 26, 2008 Report Share Posted November 26, 2008 You can find the directions on Ford.com I have a 2008, the directions say 2007 but they worked just fine. Not the best walk through but the pictures might help. with subwoofer removed Red power wire route under drivers door kick panel Red power wire route under passenger door kick panel. There is a wire protector to run the wire through. You will see the harness allready running through. Cutt the tape on the factory harness. gray wire with brown stripe connects to the yellow wire from the relay box. I cut the harness and the soldered and covered with a shrink sleeve. Picture of drivers side shrink sleeves completed. Follow the directions and you should be fine. Picture of Passenger side shrink sleeve completed. Wire harness completed with new tape wrapped around. trailer relay box in final location. It has a pre attacthed adhesive (peel and stick). Another view Completed fuse link (red wire) attached at fuse box under the hood I have seen on many of the hitch harness posts people talking about having to run a power wire all the way to the front of the car. Wouldn't it be much easier just to tap power off of the 12V power point in the cargo area? If the car is on this would have power and it should have sufficient fuseing to handle the load of trailer lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milkman1960 Posted November 26, 2008 Report Share Posted November 26, 2008 You could Tap off the power supply if you choose, but once you have all the rear panels removed to mount the box and tap to the wiring harness it is not much more to run power to the front. Basicaly all you have to do is remove the two plastic kick panels on the front and rear doors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Talionis Posted November 26, 2008 Report Share Posted November 26, 2008 This is on my list to do (when I finally decide to pull something needing lights as right now it is solely for my bike rack) I would attempt tap into a rear power point for sure. It seems more than just passing effort - sure, not a lot but also not really needed - to run a wire (remove panels, 10' of wire run through fire wall, tap 2 battery, cover with split loom, replace panels) than to keep the entire kit condensed in the rear and run 1' of wire to a constant power point in the rear - like the auto lift trunk door motor power supply - and be done with it all right there. anyway... how about a photo(s) of where you dropped it through the floorboards and out the bottom to your hitch? not seen that yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Talionis Posted May 28, 2010 Report Share Posted May 28, 2010 (edited) just installed the plug-n-play Curt T-Connector wiring kit #56067 I got off eBay for $44 shipped. It was not hard, just a pain here and there. Took maybe 1.5 hours. I bypassed some of the directions - like I did not come up from the bottom with the wiring harness to the rear plugs. Instead, I went from the trunk, down near the spare, and put the computer module in there and ran the wiring (power wire and hitch light pigtail) down through the rubber gasket. so, my module is IN my car as opposed to their outside car and stock with tape someplace. all in all, nice clean install and all hidden. running the long power wire was the pain, I just ended up running it outside along some brake, fuel, frame lines. taping along the way. no biggie, just on the back under the car and I am thin and it is a tight fit. Edited May 28, 2010 by Lex Talionis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum White Posted November 12, 2010 Report Share Posted November 12, 2010 Street Side Auto.com has this. It looks like a plug & play Wiring T-Connectors, 3 Wire System, Low Amperage System Built In Tail Light Converters Complete One-Piece Design Comprehensive/Fully Illustrated Instructions Engineered/Designed To Highest Industry Standards Plugs Easily Into Factory Wiring Harness Takes The Guesswork Out Of Complex Wiring Systems Using Only OEM Connector Assemblies Type: OEM Weight: 1.5 LB Height: 3in. Width: 5.9in. Depth: 8.9in. Valley T-Connectors , Part No. 30177 for the 2009 Ford Edge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nextime Posted November 25, 2010 Report Share Posted November 25, 2010 Never cut the wires, you loose the integrity of the wire, use the poke and wrap technique instead. By using this method if you ever have to remove anything the original wire stays perfect and undamaged. Just cause Ford says to cut the wires doesn't mean it is correct. I install GPS tracking units in Semi's and other vehicles and it this is the preferred method for not destroying factory wiring. http://www.vehicleinstallers.com/Installation_Advice_The_Poke_and_Wrap_Technique.php Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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