shumax Posted June 14, 2015 Report Share Posted June 14, 2015 Has anyone replaced the FRONT sway bar bushings? They look like a REAL bear to remove. Also, how about the stab links? I get a clunk out of our SEL AWD with 107k on it when we go over raised bumps in the road from the front end. Not when turning, just when going under 35mph and I hit a RAISED bump. I looked at the front sway bar bushings and one looks a bit cracked; the other seems fine. The stab links don't appear to have play in them, but they were "loaded," too. Doubt it to be the struts as they are no leaking and it does NOT do it when I turn. Could be the strut bearings, but thought I would hear that more when I turn. Thoughts? Any how-to's out there? Thanks, Shumax Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted June 14, 2015 Report Share Posted June 14, 2015 Do the control arm bushings look OK? That's another possible culprit. I think there is a built in spot on the stabilizer link studs that you can use to hold them steady with a hex bit (the "holding feature" as the factory service manual calls it) while you are loosening the nuts. But IIRC, this may not work due to age/rust and you may have to cut off the links with a Sawzall or something similar. The stabilizer bar bushings may be replaceable, but don't see any instructions in the manual pertaining to them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted June 14, 2015 Report Share Posted June 14, 2015 Strut bearing mounts may be the issue. Your mileage is right at the point of replacement. You can also get a very similar noise if the ball joint is worn. I never experienced the sway bar bushings needing a replacement. I have experienced the noises you describe with the strut bearing mount and the ball joint. I replaced three of each on each side. I also experienced a clunking sound when a sway bar link broke under low speeds and bumps. The bearing mount will make noise up higher on the front. The ball joint will be a lower located noise and could be easily confused with the strut mount. You do not have to be turning to hear the strut mount noise. The strut mount fails usually in a manner that is more of a vertical movement than turning under load. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shumax Posted June 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2015 Thanks for the replies. I actually ordered Moog replacement sway bar links. They have a grease fitting, which I like. This is what I replaced the tie rod ends with about 20k ago, too. I crawled under there yesterday and the bolts turned easy enough with the "key" holding it in place. So, it shouldn't be terrible to replace those. If the noise remains, I will likely take it to a Ford Dealership to let them tell me what it is and then replace it myself if it's the struts and strut bearings. Probably pass on the ball joint as I am not familiar with how to replace those - any good how to's? Thanks again,Shumax Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted June 15, 2015 Report Share Posted June 15, 2015 Watch the video. I do recommend all new bolts when you replace the LCA or you could be looking at doing what I had to do to replace the LCA. I have many more repair video's on my youtube channel that may also be of interest. Thanks for the replies. I actually ordered Moog replacement sway bar links. They have a grease fitting, which I like. This is what I replaced the tie rod ends with about 20k ago, too. I crawled under there yesterday and the bolts turned easy enough with the "key" holding it in place. So, it shouldn't be terrible to replace those. If the noise remains, I will likely take it to a Ford Dealership to let them tell me what it is and then replace it myself if it's the struts and strut bearings. Probably pass on the ball joint as I am not familiar with how to replace those - any good how to's? Thanks again,Shumax 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shumax Posted June 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2015 Wow! That looks like a LOT of work and you have the lift, tools and resources. I have air tools, but no lift and no way to extract bolts if they break. GULP! Thanks for sharing, but that appears to be one I'd suck up and pay the stealership for! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted June 15, 2015 Report Share Posted June 15, 2015 We did one in the driveway/garage in February. the cold makes you work faster. LOL It can be done with a floor jack. Keep in mind I broke the bolt because I had already reused it previously, when I should have replaced it. This is why I recommend the new bolts each time you perform this job. My cost was about 145.00 dollars to replace it. Not sure what the dealer would charge. Just note the OEM from ford is about 250 dollars. The Moog is 75.00 at amazon. Wow! That looks like a LOT of work and you have the lift, tools and resources. I have air tools, but no lift and no way to extract bolts if they break. GULP! Thanks for sharing, but that appears to be one I'd suck up and pay the stealership for! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted June 16, 2015 Report Share Posted June 16, 2015 I believe this is the Moog sway bar link mentioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shumax Posted June 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2015 This is the exact part I bought Monday. They look much more substantial than the OEM version. I plan to instal them Friday. Thanks for sharing the video! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted June 16, 2015 Report Share Posted June 16, 2015 Removing the originals will be an adventure for sure. I will most likely be replacing my struts in the next few months or at least before the snowy weather arrives. Then I can install the Moog sway bar links. Good luck. Let us know how they work out. This is the exact part I bought Monday. They look much more substantial than the OEM version. I plan to instal them Friday. Thanks for sharing the video! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted June 18, 2015 Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 (edited) Here is a pic of the swaybar bushings on EBay: Looks like they come together/snap apart like any other stabilizer bar bushing. You do need to clean & use the correct grease when putting the new ones on. Edited June 18, 2015 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shumax Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 I installed the MOOG stab links on the front today. Took about 2.5 hours (from the time I pulled the first tool, to the time I put the last away), with a trip to Lowe's for a sawzall Note that I have air tools. Honestly, one should just assume they will need to be cut off. If you don't have air tools and/or a sawzall, I honestly would just pay someone to do it. It could turn into a nightmare of a job without these items. I could back the nut off just enough to get the sawzall blade in there, but that was it. I had a hard time finding space to get the sawzall in, so I had to use my cut off tool with my compressor. That made even quicker work of the old bolts. Once off, it's really plug n play. The MOOG parts are much more substantial than the OEM parts, plus they have grease fittings. They are also a few dollars less expensive than OEM. I drove it and noticed much less noise than before, so it clearly helped. Of course, as I came back into the drive, I think I heard a pop in the front end. I suspect it's the strut bearing. As mentioned above, at 107k, it's time to get those out of there, I know. I'm not messing with it until my wife starts to complain about the noise. Shumax 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 i got a good look at the OEM links to day during my video of the four wheel brake job and those links are about the diameter of a pencil. Got ya beat on time though. It took me over 6.5 hours to install new rotors and pads, bleed the entire brake system. Not to mention I even manage to break more bolts and had to break out the welder etc. Not my idea of a fun time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shumax Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 6.5 hours for a brake job?! What happened?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted June 21, 2015 Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 That is the same question I have been asking myself. LOL. Let's just say between breaking bolts and waiting for parts it turned into a rather lengthy process. Then add the fact that I have to set up for some video shots and then my lovely daughter MG started to slowly go into a melt down. It just did not work out well and her attitude can be seen via the video in some areas. yep just another day I guess. 6.5 hours for a brake job?! What happened?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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