macbwt Posted June 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 I received an email contact from MOOG yesterday. Seems they like the sway bar link video and are going to send me some surprise appreciation goodies. Wonder what it will be? Coffee cup and ball cap? Who knows just have to wait and see. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted June 18, 2015 Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 Now this is what we call "Catching Fire"! Moog is out there watching social media, I guess! evh has some great name recommendations, look forward to what MG & CB come up with 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted June 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 IF CB has a choice it will begin with Princess or Fairy. Now this is what we call "Catching Fire"! Moog is out there watching social media, I guess! evh has some great name recommendations, look forward to what MG & CB come up with 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted June 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 What ya think? Cinnamon Metallic = Lullubelle. Only a few will know where this name came from. If you need a hint I will provided one later. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted June 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 MG and CB came up with some for the Blue Metallic. Not sure about the choices, but they are avid blue berry fans and what to call it Blue Berry - Jury still out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted June 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 One noticable thing on the brake rotors is that the front rotors are vented rotors, but the rear rotors on the 2011's are just a piece of plate steel. Lower quality rotors are made of graymetal (low carbon steel) and the high carbon are made of alloys of steel, which wold aid in the resistance to rust. The coatings on the rotors are dipped coatings as a spray finishing would not penetrate the venting like dip coating would. It will be interesting to see how the new rotors hold up to rust. I have been thinking of showing a stopping test with the old brakes and a stopping test with the new brakes after installation. Just need to look for a location to perform this test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted June 19, 2015 Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 Great idea! Come to DC, people "test" their brakes around here all the time. You'd hardly be noticed. I have been thinking of showing a stopping test with the old brakes and a stopping test with the new brakes after installation. Just need to look for a location to perform this test. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PrinzII Posted June 19, 2015 Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 In my case, I would have an interesting dichotomy. My 2008 was bought new. The 2011 was bought with 18199 on the clock. So, I am guessing I would have the best of both worlds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted June 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 Some of my family live in Maryland and my brother in law recently "unsuccessfully" tested his brakes on the car he bought two week prior. Now he has a third car. Country boy living in the big city and he hates being cut off and tailgates. Not sure how this is going to work out for him. Great idea! Come to DC, people "test" their brakes around here all the time. You'd hardly be noticed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted June 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 I agree the comparison would be Ideal for NEW edges, but alas I have the paycheck I have and used is the price point for me. A lot of folks buying used edges of this type and mileage and since one is all city driving and one is all highway. the comparison is similar. Blueberry has 19K yearly mileage (most likely rural/city type) Lullubelle had an average yearly mileage of about 22K when purchased. Both most likely rural/city mixed driving with Lullubelle getting a slightly higher amount of highway. Both single owner vehicles from new purchases. Both apparently had moderate maintenance, but no transmission flushes or cabin air filter changes. Both are due coolant changes. one is due sparkplugs and PCV since I am in there. Lullubelle is getting new brakes all around tomorrow morning and a full brake line fluid change. We will see how the driving conditions and mileage works out. I am betting on Lullubelle getting new suspension parts. Blueberry may develop other issue in relation to city driving stresses. Time will tell. Not scientific or exactly a great comparison, but might be interesting to watch to see how things progress. In my case, I would have an interesting dichotomy. My 2008 was bought new. The 2011 was bought with 18199 on the clock. So, I am guessing I would have the best of both worlds. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted June 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 Here is a hint on Lullubelle. The name was used in a 1930's war movie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted June 19, 2015 Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 I think we have already learned quite a bit about the Gen 1 Edges via the Orange Crush, and hope to gain similar information over time from the Gen 2's you own, mac. Albeit I do hope for the maintenance to be routine and of the low-cost variety! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted June 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 So far Orange Crush MPG was about 20mpg. Lullubelle is running a steady 23mpg, but has over 100lbs of pig iron in the back (brake rotors) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 MG has pulled out her union card and demanded an extra hour of sleep. Summer vacation ya know...LOL We are getting ready to head out to perform the 4 wheel brake pad and rotor replacement along with a full brake fluid change. Hopefully Lullubelle cooperates in this adventure. I will also inspect the noise dampeners on the braking system for those who are interested. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 Good luck and safety first (don't need to tell YOU that LOL) ... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 (edited) Why does it take about 6.5 hours to work on brakes? Let's just say Lullubelle does not like anyone working around her rear end. Front brakes and Flushing was easy. Rear rotors and pads nothing but trouble trouble trouble trouble.............. Learned some tricks and let me tell you those noise dampers are a *(&(^(*&&)(*& I need say no more. The engineer who came up with the idea of putting a bolt into another bolt ought to be taken to the stocks and flogged relentlessly. I will work on the video and on top of it all MG developed an attitude when things became tedious. She is good now, bought her pizza and all is better. All I can say is I planned 3 hours or so and ended up being double the time. Good news is the brakes work and yes I even verified that the noise dampeners do work because I had brake noise on the right rear since it is missing the dampener. Edited June 20, 2015 by macbwt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 Hopefully not a sign of things to come! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 (edited) After reviewing the video. I will admit the broken bolt is my fault righty tighty lefty lousy. Ya switch side back and forth then bam you do it wrong. Ordering a new dampener with bolt then will replace it. The brake pads were a total screw up by the clerk at Autozone. Watching the video I have determined that my camera is having issues focusing so it will not be the best in some areas. Someday will have to get a new camera. Edited June 21, 2015 by macbwt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted June 21, 2015 Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 Keep that camera lens clean, it's got lots of work left to do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 Reviewing video for brake work and due to multiple issues I believe it will be broken into segments. Brake bleed/flush then rear brakes and finally the front brakes. Due to all the issues with the rear brakes the front brake video is a bit less detail than I would of liked and focus issues also developed. Essentially not our best work. Breaking out a standby camera and will see if it works out better for us in the future since it is a full HD video camera it should help some. I apologize ahead of time for the (what I think is poor quality) video. Hopefully it does end up helping gain an idea of what you need to do when working on the brakes on the 2011 and other newer Edge models. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 Happy Fathers Day to all the other Dad's out there!!! Out of chaos comes information. I broke the Low Frequency Damper on the passenger side of the rear caliper. Not one car parts store even knows what this part is (leave it to me to break something like this) One clerk even thought I was messing with her and inventing the part. I may end up going to the dealer for this even though it is a raybestos part available on the market. Another good thing is I got a new video camera for Fathers Day. Surprise Surprise. Can not wait to try it out and the first video will be of me installing the new (you guessed it) Low frequency noise damper on Lullubelle. Which reminds me I have afternoon time set to watch the movie again. Enjoy your fathers day folks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted June 21, 2015 Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 Happy Father's Day, mac, and congrats on the surprise gift Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted June 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 OK Then, after my lack of knowledge lead to me causing unneeded damage to the caliper pins on the rear brakes I am ready to make amends. I have purchased two new brake caliper kits by motorcraft at the dealer since no one else seems to carry the parts and most parts stores are rather ignorant in the knowledge of low frequency dampers on the ford edge. The kit numbers are BKCOE-26 or BT4Z-2386-A both of these numbers are on the plastic bag. I will show the bags in the video. This video will show how to remove the low freqency dampers correctly then the studs and caliper pin. The it will show the proper reassembly of the entire system. Once I figured it out it all made some sense. Anyway for those that are interested I will be performing this tomorrow since my brakes are more or less held together with string, duct tape, bubble gum and some spit and a little bit of my blood for good measure. I will get to try out the new camera in the process. By the way the kits are about 11 dollars and change for each one and they supply both caliper pins, new rubber boots and the stud assembly required for the noise damper. The noise damper is an additional 25 dollars if you destroy that and it takes over three days to get it in via Ford. Longer or about the same for the autoparts stores if you can convince the clerk that a low frequency damper actually is a real part. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
POWERSTROKE Posted June 22, 2015 Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 I feel your pain on getting Ford parts in the Quad-Cities. I lived there for 35 years. I had the best luck walking in the back door at Sexton's and getting/taking Wholesale plus tax, plus they seemed to stock a more varied selection of parts. None of the dealers on the Iowa side would stock anything, everything was special order. Comment on brake rotors/drums. They are cast iron. Either gray iron or ductile/nodular iron depending on the application. Steel of ANY type makes terrible brake disks/drums. Bit of advice for you. Get a pint bottle of Permatex anti-sieze compound and use it liberally when you reassemble your vehicles from repair/service. Just about completely eliminates parts rusting together. Saves a ton of time on the next repair of that component. I've got a 1996 F-250 regular cab 4wd pickup with Power stroke diesel and manual 5-speed trans I ordered out special in March 1996, waited thirteen weeks for it to come in to the dealer, and was my daily driver for nine years till I semiretired it in 2005. Truck had around 250,000-260,000 miles on it by then, has 301,000 on it now. Nineteen Wisconsin winters has caused corrosion issues on a couple fuel and brake lines but that issue is almost resolved now. I still prefer to drive it over any other vehicle. Not sure how much longer I will be able to keep the old girl running, truck will turn 19 years this Saturday. Trick to wrapping up Big miles on a vehicle is to protect them from rust and put the miles on FAST! Ohhhh, and cabin air filters, the one in my 2006 Volvo S40 is still the factory original filter, car was placed in service June 28, 2005, so TEN years old. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted June 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 I painted the hubs with the permatex. One thing was the rust on them then you have aluminum and steel meshed together on the wheels and those two metals tend to want to mesh/weld themselves together since they are opposing materials they react poorly. This is why the Navy uses rubber or similar type materials as a buffer between the aluminum super structures and the steel deck on the ships. BTW you will see the permatex in the video liberally applied. I did witness what happens to cast iron after a runaway oven accident. It literally heats the cast iron. Yep with maintenance the vehicle will run a long time if it was a good design (note the Orange Crush mileage) a Chevy Trailblazer on the other hand is a very large weight designed to cause the roadway to sink from not being able to move under it's own power. I feel your pain on getting Ford parts in the Quad-Cities. I lived there for 35 years. I had the best luck walking in the back door at Sexton's and getting/taking Wholesale plus tax, plus they seemed to stock a more varied selection of parts. None of the dealers on the Iowa side would stock anything, everything was special order.Comment on brake rotors/drums. They are cast iron. Either gray iron or ductile/nodular iron depending on the application. Steel of ANY type makes terrible brake disks/drums.Bit of advice for you. Get a pint bottle of Permatex anti-sieze compound and use it liberally when you reassemble your vehicles from repair/service. Just about completely eliminates parts rusting together. Saves a ton of time on the next repair of that component.I've got a 1996 F-250 regular cab 4wd pickup with Power stroke diesel and manual 5-speed trans I ordered out special in March 1996, waited thirteen weeks for it to come in to the dealer, and was my daily driver for nine years till I semiretired it in 2005. Truck had around 250,000-260,000 miles on it by then, has 301,000 on it now. Nineteen Wisconsin winters has caused corrosion issues on a couple fuel and brake lines but that issue is almost resolved now. I still prefer to drive it over any other vehicle. Not sure how much longer I will be able to keep the old girl running, truck will turn 19 years this Saturday. Trick to wrapping up Big miles on a vehicle is to protect them from rust and put the miles on FAST!Ohhhh, and cabin air filters, the one in my 2006 Volvo S40 is still the factory original filter, car was placed in service June 28, 2005, so TEN years old. to a point that it burns the carbon content and other impurities out of the cast iron and leaves it with pitted hollow shell that is very light weight afterwards with a large molten lump of steel on the floor. It was a very interesting reaction. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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