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Blueberry is having a shift to park issue. Twice now. No message. What happens is when MOMOSHA parks she must not be using enough force to make sure the lever is clicked into park. NO warning lights or messages. The problem symptom is when she goes to remote start the Blueberry only Double beeps and will not start. I went out and checked all doors opening and closing them. I then started it and put it into gear then placed it into park. When I placed into park I distinctly heard and felt a delayed click in the shift lever. I then locked the door and pushed the remote start and it started. I am guessing the shift to park thing is starting to show it's ugly head.

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WWW any info on how to remove the top plastic cowling to access the strut bearing mount nuts? I am seriously thinking about getting an alldata one year subscription so I have some access to repair information at home. Driving to Rock Island for a simple question sort of sucks.

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My info comes straight from an FSM off EBay :) Are you trying to remove the windshield cowl panel grille (the long flat slotted piece where the wipers come out from)? The manual doesn't mention any need, but it would def be easier!

 

Wiper Pivot Arm — Front

Removal and Installation

  1. Remove the front wiper pivot arm caps.

post-23566-0-24868100-1452385549_thumb.gif

  1. Remove the front wiper pivot arm retaining nuts and the front wiper pivot arms.
    • To install, tighten to 30 Nm (22 lb-ft).

post-23566-0-98941500-1452385588_thumb.gif

  1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Cowl Panel Grille

post-23566-0-23646700-1452385349_thumb.gif

Item Part Number Description

1 020A26 RH cowl side outer panel

2 020A27 LH cowl side outer panel

3 W712648 Upper cowl grille panel screws (4 required)

4 N804837 Upper cowl grille panel scrivet (4 required)

5 02222 RH upper cowl panel

6 02223 LH upper cowl panel

7 17526 Wiper pivot arm assembly bolt (2 required)

8 17508B Wiper pivot arm assembly

9 W707257 Cowl panel extension bolts (6 required)

10 021A37 LH cowl panel extension

11 W707257 RH cowl panel extension

12 W710593 Lower cowl panel bolt (5 required)

13 W702751 Lower cowl panel nut (3 required)

14 W710309 Lower cowl panel-to-front of dash bolt 15 02106 Lower cowl panel

Upper and lower cowl grille panel

  1. NOTE: The upper cowl panel grille must be removed before the lower cowl panel grille can be removed.

    Remove the LH and RH wiper pivot arms. For additional information, refer to Section 501-16 .

Upper cowl panel grille

  1. Remove the RH cowl side outer panel.
  1. Remove the LH cowl side outer panel.
  1. Remove the 2 scrivets from the RH upper cowl panel grille.
  1. Remove the 2 bolts from the RH upper cowl grille panel and remove the RH upper cowl grille panel.
    • To install, tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb-in).
  1. Remove the 2 scrivets from the LH upper cowl grille panel.
  1. Remove the 2 bolts from the LH upper cowl grille panel and remove the LH upper cowl grille panel.
    • To install, tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb-in).

Lower cowl panel grille

  1. Remove the wiper arm and wiper pivot shaft assembly.
    • Disconnect the electrical connector.
    • Remove the 2 bolts.
      • To install, tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
  1. Remove the 2 bolts from the upper left lower cowl grille panel extension and remove the panel.
    • To install, tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb-in).
  1. Remove the 4 bolts from the upper right lower cowl panel extension and remove the panel.
    • To install, tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb-in).
  1. Disconnect the wiring harness from the retainer on the left front of the lower cowl grille panel.

post-23566-0-89547000-1452385375_thumb.gif

  1. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the powertrain control module (PCM).

post-23566-0-92834400-1452385396_thumb.gif

  1. Remove the evaporative purge valve and bracket from the center of the lower cowl panel grille and set aside.
  1. Remove the 5 bolts and 3 nuts from inside the lower cowl grille panel.
    • To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in).
  1. Remove the bolt from the lower cowl panel-to-front of dash.
    • To install, tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).
  1. Remove the lower cowl grille panel and PCM from the vehicle.

Upper and lower cowl grille panel

  1. CAUTION: Incorrect installation of the lower/upper cowl panel grille may cause damage to the windshield. Make sure the cowl panel grille clips are located under the windshield prior to installation.

    To install, reverse the removal procedure.
    • Transfer the components as necessary.
    • Adjust the pivot arms. For additional information refer to Section 501-16 .
Edited by WWWPerfA_ZN0W
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I have not really looked yet to see what type of clearance there is. All I know and remember is that the clearance under the cowl is very tight on the drivers side and could barely get my fingers into that area and it was not fun to get it tightened up either. Maybe there is more clearance in the 2011 (most likely not). Thank for the info.

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Just did a temp check on all vents to see if there is an issue with the actuators or blend doors. Each one under dual settings changed the temp to the same temp when adjusted. I did note that the heat will put out over 165 degrees at max setting and at minimum setting 61 degrees it will be about 63 degrees on all vents. I however found the sweet spot at 67-68 degrees where you either can tolerate the setting or get very warm. Not much in between and a very wide temp swing. I will have to measure this some more. Might be the blend door is swinging open too much.

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I had to know what the transmission fluid looked like after just 32K miles as when I flushed it at 92K miles. After doing this last change I will be aiming for a sweet spot of about 50-60K miles. You will see in the video that even at 32K miles it is pretty dirty. The fluid was a warren oil and lubricants COASTAL Full Synthetic Multi Vehicle ATF which meets all MERCON LV requirements.

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Mileage comparison between both Edges; Blue Berry in 7 months has logged about 5,000 miles. Lullubelle has logged about 32,000 miles in 7 months.

Blueberry = 714 monthly

Lullubelle = 4571 monthly

 

 

MOMOSHA is currently reviewing the 2016 Ford Edge as she knows once I run Lullubelle to the ground she gets a newer Edge and I get Blueberry.

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I am guessing WWW that you would not take your transmission fluid to the 150K mile mark? I remember when I had the 2008 I never changed the power steering fluid and I am sure that the power steering was and did suffer because of that. I believe most of the people neglect the PS and Brake fluid like I have done in the past. Lessons learned.

Fluid color looks OK, as Makuloco pointed out about LV spec'd fluid. Particulates are a different "matter".

 

Good note about the valve covers. Also the COPs point in the opposite direction of the 2007-10.

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Def not. Had I owned my Edge from the beginning, the most it would have seen would be 60K intervals for trans (and PTU/RDU and steering) fluid changes (being mixed city/highway), 30K for brake fluid. Not quite sure on the coolant, but surely no longer than in the book, most likely 60K as well.

 

Everything erodes internally with time, and fluid changes are relatively cheap insurance against that.

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Here is the deal. I tested my motor craft battery and it is a 54 series 540 CCA. It is putting out 490CCA, but good enough for now for the Solar BA7 tester to say it is OK, but did have a yellow light saying it is Weak. I performed a system crank under load test and it is putting out 14.50 Volts but with a flashing green and Red light. Weird thing is green is good and Red saying system is not charging properly.
Now I have to wait until the other Edge is back home to rerun the tests to see if I get the same charging results. I will also be performing this test on KIA van yet this afternoon so I will have three tests to see if Lullubelle is having charging issues or if the Ford Smart charging system is causing the tester to read the impulses as an error. By the way the Motorcraft battery was at 12.4volts when I first hooked it up which is of some concern.

Edited by macbwt
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What was the temperature when you checked the battery voltage (of 12.4V)?

battery-state-of-charge.jpg

Figure 1 (pg 1) in this document:

http://www.pssurvival.com/PS/Batteries/Primitive_Survival/Testing-State-of-Charge_Lead_Batteres_2010.pdf

 

A few basics about lead acid batteries from "Bob's Class" at UCSB:

http://my.ece.ucsb.edu/York/Bobsclass/194/LecNotes/Lect%20-%20Batteries.pdf

Edited by WWWPerfA_ZN0W
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