2015 Edge Sport Towing

[Denicio]

Here is the job Uhaul did on my 2015 Titanium. Thanks for the tips on how to post pictures!

[skyvvalker]

I think I'm going to go with the self install Hidden Hitch on my 2016 SEL Edge, rather than the Curt Hitch (which UHaul uses). If you look at the diagrams for both hitches (see picture attachments or installation instructions), it is clear that the Hidden Hitch square bar sits higher than the round tube of the Curt Hitch, and is therefore less visible. It is worth noting, that the receiver will be at the same height for either hitch installation.

 

BTW, the fact that the Hidden Hitch uses 4 bolts on each side vs 2 bolts on each side for the Curt Hitch, should make for a more robust mounting with the Hidden Hitch.

 

Also, I'm not sure why Curt Hitch is calling for one of the side holes of the "frame" to be made larger for the spacer to get inserted (see CurtHitch2 picture), when it looks like there is already a wider hole forward of the side mounting holes on the "frame", which the Hidden Hitch instructions reference (see HiddenHitch2 picture).

 

Finally, Etrailer.com has posted a nice video for installing the Curt Hitch on a 2015 Edge. Though I plan on installing the Hidden Hitch, some of the steps are the same between the 2 installations: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tBv4AOIV_8

 

They also have a 2015 Edge trailer wiring harness install video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2lM9HwpNu6E

CQT75234.pdf

CM_13224_INS.PDF

[built2prfctn]

A follow-up regarding my earlier wiring-kit problems:

 

Although Curt sent me a new (and slightly-different) wiring module, I STILL had no brake lights coming out of the module after splicing-in the new one. I then traced and tested all the wiring back to the L/H OEM wiring harness connector, and found that I had a stop lamp signal going IN to the rear lamp housing... but no stop signal coming back OUT of either the lamp housing nor the Curt wiring harness. This therefore resulted in my getting no stop lamp signal going into the Curt module (and obviously nothing then going out of the module down to the trailer connector harness.

 

Ironically, the new module that Curt sent me had an extra lead going into it... one that my original module did not have. It was colored Red and labeled "Stop-lamps". In the interest of having already spent too much time on this problem, I decided to run that lead up to the stop lamp lead (going into the tail lamp assembly), and suddenly I finally had my stop lamp signal showing-up at the 4-flat wiring harness going to the trailer! I then re-ran this extra wire to the stop-lamp lead on a permanent basis, and put it all back together... and the problem is finally solved.

 

I have no idea as to why their #56272 kit was not working as designed on my particular car, but at least I finally got that issue resolved (although via using an extra input wire to do it)... but, as long as it's now working, right?

Any idea what the model number is of the good harness?

[Bobs2015EdgeSport]

Yes, the kit that ultimately worked for me was a Curt # 56190 "Powered Taillight Converter", and this is the one that had the extra red-lead (for the brake lights) that the first kit I had tried did not have.

 

As I was about at the end of my rope, I decided to try connecting this "extra" red-lead into my brake lamp circuit, just for fun, and soon discovered that it cured the problem of having no brake lights (on the trailer)... as compared to the first (different part number) kit that I tried... so you might try this # 56190 kit off the bat, to at least give you the option of avoiding all the brake light problems that I encountered on my 2015 Sport.

 

Hope this helps!

[built2prfctn]

Thanks !

[postman]

Just installed a Draw-Tite 75234 that I got from Amazon for $141 with free shipping. I also purchased a T connector wiring kit for $55 made by Tekonsha. It connects without cutting any wires.
Draw-Tite is made by Cequent, which labels them for Hidden Hitch, Draw-tite and Reese. Installation did take a couple hours having the back end up on ramps. You do need a 5.5 and 10mm socket, but I didn't need a torx bit. I think that's only for the Lincoln model. Somebody posted they had to remove the exhaust rings? I don't think that was in the instructions. I just pulled the plastic fascia a little and the exhaust dropped down. Not real happy that the hitch only has 8" of ground clearance. There is plenty of room to move the hitch up, just requires some cutting of the fascia. I've seen other year models that have the fascia cut for the hitch and they look fine.
Also the hole I use in the picture is a lot closer and easier to feed the wire through. I only takes a couple passes with a file to allow the large washer to fit.
Also found a wiring harness on the passenger sire, see picture. I wonder if it was for the factory trailer wiring kit.

Edited July 9, 2016 by postman

[LNCHBOX]

Just installed a Draw-Tite 75234 that I got from Amazon for $141 with free shipping. I also purchased a T connector wiring kit for $55 made by Tekonsha. It connects without cutting any wires.

Draw-Tite is made by Cequent, which labels them for Hidden Hitch, Draw-tite and Reese. Installation did take a couple hours having the back end up on ramps. You do need a 5.5 and 10mm socket, but I didn't need a torx bit. I think that's only for the Lincoln model. Somebody posted they had to remove the exhaust rings? I don't think that was in the instructions. I just pulled the plastic fascia a little and the exhaust dropped down. Not real happy that the hitch only has 8" of ground clearance. There is plenty of room to move the hitch up, just requires some cutting of the fascia. I've seen other year models that have the fascia cut for the hitch and they look fine.

Also the hole I use in the picture is a lot closer and easier to feed the wire through. I only takes a couple passes with a file to allow the large washer to fit.

Also found a wiring harness on the passenger sire, see picture. I wonder if it was for the factory trailer wiring kit.

 

How's the functionality of the sensor to open the tailgate with your foot with the hitch installed?

[akirby]

I have the hidden hitch on a 2016 MKX and it doesn't interfere with the liftgate sensor at all.

[postman]

I couldn't tell from under the vehicle where the sensor was. It doesn't work from the middle anymore, but to either side of the hitch it works fine.

[Denicio]

Here is how sad my knowledge of my edge was. It was not until i was hooking up my trailer for the 1st time that i realized i had a sensor to open the door. I bent down to put the lock on the hitch and the door surprisingly opened and bumped me. Very unexpected. I thought i'd hit the button on my keyfob that was in my pocket. It only dawned on me a week later when it did it again.

 

Silly me, i had no idea my Titanium had this feature. Now, when i want to MAKE it work (stuff in my hands) its not very reliable......just when i dont need it open whil i am hooking up a trailer. Oh my!

[akirby]

You should make a forward kicking motion as if you were touching the underside of the bumper with your toe about 6-8 inches back from the edge.

 

Some people do a waving or sideways motion and that doesn't always work.

[Denicio]

aKirby,

Thanks for the tip. Anywhere under the bumper or is there a specific area like directly under the center of the door area (where my hitch is now)

[akirby]

On my MKX it seems to work pretty much anywhere (I have the aftermarket Hidden Hitch). Just test it and see what works best on yours - could vary. On our 2014 Escape I had installed an aftermarket hitch but it blocked the sensor and you could only kick in one spot on each side right next to the exhaust. But that shouldn't be a problem on the Edge.

[Beezz]

Installed a Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver Class III for my 15' sport today, along with a T-One wiring harness. The job was a complete pain, it will help if you have 2 people and are able to lift the car up pretty high, otherwise you'll be fighting with everything. It took me a few hours to get the hitch installed, the exhaust had to come down for me to be able to bolt in the hitch. I think an easier approach would be to remove the bumper, which I ended up doing to install the wiring harness. There was literally no room to pull up the wiring as stated in the instructions, you run the risk of damaging a lot of stuff behind the bumper. Also, I highly suggest washing your car the day before you install a hitch, you really dont want stuff dripping onto your face while you're under there. I didn't wash it at all and was battling mud and stone dust the entire day. Duct tape on the guide wires also helps to locate them after you slide them into the 'frame'. The lift-gate sensor still works, just not right under the hitch receiver. I am going to try to wire the power for the light controller into the 12v outlet in the trunk.

 

attached:

right side rear wiring, just remove the bumper, unbolt the top black bumper support and slide the wires in (similar on both sides)

left side hitch with bolts and guide wires

 

 

Edited August 10, 2016 by Beezz

[akirby]

I'm having problems getting my Curt harness to work. I did wire it into the 12V outlet in the rear. It worked at first when I tested it with the multimeter and later when I hooked up the trailer the brake and turn signals worked but not the taillamps. I did some troubleshooting with the trailer wiring and thought everything was ok (trailer is new also) but when I tested it yesterday nothing worked and now I'm not getting voltage on the taillamp lead either and the brake and turn signals don't work. I may just disconnect power to reset the module. This is driving me crazy.

[Beezz]

Akirby scroll up a bit (page4), someone (bobs2015edgesport) with the curt harness was also having trouble, they got a new module sent to them with an extra wire.

[Bobs2015EdgeSport]

Hey akirby:

 

Just a heads-up that that power outlet in the rear actually SHUTS OFF after the engine is stopped, after a preset amount of time (as do all the other outlets in the car), depending on the power drain it sees at the outlet, after the car is shut down! This is because Ford, in all their infinite wisdom, decided that they wanted to build-in a "power saver" feature, so that leaving things like your laptop plugged-in would not drain the battery overnight... but that you could at least leave your cellphone charging for about 10 minutes before shut-down.

 

I found this out by doing some testing on my own 2015 Sport... I wanted to be able to plug-in a small amber revolving light, for my volunteer work at fire scenes. The light draws a bit of power, what with its halogen bulb and motor. I first discovered that, once I shut-off the car, the light would run for another 20 seconds and then suddenly turn-off. The only way to bring it back on was to start the car again; then the process would repeat itself. This was obviously not a good option for me, that is, to have to leave my car running unattended while doing my fire scene work.

 

I then tried just leaving something plugged-in that draws very low power, such as my cellphone charger, and it would at least remain on for a few minutes. I think it was about 10 minutes, the same as when you leave your car radio on and it eventually shuts-off after about 10 minutes. The power module in the car monitors this and controls them all.

 

Now, getting back to using the rear outlet for a power source to run your trailer light module... the installation instructions even tell you up front to not use that kind of power source, but instead, to run a hot lead all the way up to the car's battery up front. Now you know why, or at least, what might be a contributing factor to your suddenly not having anything work back there.

 

In my case, I had already run a very heavy hot wire, directly from the battery to my two-way radio that is mounted in the spare tire compartment. (NOTE: To run this wire from front to rear was in and of itself a VERY difficult and time-consuming job, as these cars have NO easy way to get any wiring up into the engine compartment safely... but all that is another nightmarish story)!

 

So, I disassembled the left rear panel and removed the stock wiring from the power outlet, and instead, wired it to my pre-installed hot lead from the car's battery, thereby removing it from the shut-down feature of the car's power module, and voila... the outlet is hot all the time. I then also connected my power lead from the trailer wiring harness module to this same always-hot power lead, and that solved my "no trailer lights" problem for good! And, yes, I did have to get a different version of the trailer wiring kit from Curt, but it's been almost a year now and my trailer lights are still working just fine.

 

Good luck with your installation... it was a tough one for me as well, but worth it!

[akirby]

I understand that it's not hot all the time and when I've done my testing I made sure the engine was running. I also tested the outlet with a phone charger that has a light to make sure it was powered. So that's not the problem. Since I'm only towing a small utility trailer every once in awhile this shouldn't be a problem.

 

My module already had the separate red wire but I didn't hook it up to anything because the instructions didn't call for it (unless I overlooked it). Interestingly when I first hooked it up to the trailer the brakes and turn signals worked fine.

 

I'm going to try resetting the power to the module first and I'll check with Curt about the red wire. Thanks for the info.

[jmr061]

I put the Draw-Tite on my 16 Sport along with the included wiring. I too am disappointed with the low clearance of the receiver but hey...give and take for getting a sport. I didn't have to remove the bumper cover to install the wiring though I did pop it off a little but from the retainers where the taillights sit. That gave enough room to run the wiring from bottom up to the lights. I also took off the white plastic holder on the original vehicle side of the electrical connector for each light and put it on the trailer light kit of the same plug. I then shoved the original connector down further and clipped the trailer light kit plug where the original factory one went. That means I didn't have to try to tuck and hide the trailer wiring to get the lights back in. I also ran power for the light controller from the fuel pump power. There is a small hole in the spare tire well that you can pop out a dime size plug and send your power wire through (of course I used wire loom and resinstalled the grommet and sealed it). The trailer lights will only work in the ignition on position. Not ideal but I don't plan on breaking down while towing (I hope!!).

 

I would choose a source that can handle the amps for your taillights in addition to what it is already driving. I have LED taillights so no biggie and I fuse it on the at 7.5 amps instead of 10.

 

As far as the 12V power outlets...one of the F150 guys found that timer for those is adjustable via programming or can be turn on all the time or off all the time (when ignition off).

[akirby]

After doing more testing and research I think I just have a weak ground. I tried using an existing screw behind the taillight - I'll relocate it and see what happens.

[Beezz]

Yeah the only reason I want to wire it through the rear 12v is because there is no way for me to get under the car and route the wire through to the engine bay. Let alone get it up through there and onto the battery. Considering I'll be doing very little towing I think I can get away with it. I could route the wire through the inside of the vehicle, which will probably look stupid but whatever.Guess its the rear 12v for now.

 

 

Update: soldered the harness into the rear 12v power lead, was a complete pain but still better than running a wire from the battery. The hardest part was getting the side panels back into place afterwards ( I broke 1 clip) The neg battery terminal was also a pain to remove.

Edited August 13, 2016 by Beezz

[Bobs2015EdgeSport]

Thanks for the hint regarding it possibly be a programmable limit (for keeping the power outlets hot), but I am unable to find anything in my owner's manual that even talks about power outlet time limits... much less a way to change them. Has anyone else ever seen this as a programmable feature, on the later-model Edges?

 

Also, as far as running a hot lead from the battery all the way back to the rear... I did not run it UNDER the car, but rather through all of the hidden wiring channels that run alongside the inside of the edge of the carpet (where the carpeting meets the doors)... but, once I got it up to the driver's side door area, there is absolutely no way to continue it up and through the firewall safely... so I had to drill a hole through the channel at that point, and then run it down under the car (for about 6 inches), then up between the plastic fender liner and over, then fish it through so that it came out just to the right of the battery!

 

Now, to be honest, I've probably done over a hundred radio and lighting installs for my volunteer fire dept. support group... and I've NEVER run into a vehicle that has given me virtually NO OPTIONS for safely running power, lighting and radio cables... like this car has! I don't know why it's built like a tank and you cannot find spots to run wires through... but it is (at least, that was my experience).

[akirby]

He was talking about the IDS programming that only the dealer has access to.

 

I did get my trailer wires fixed. It was a weak ground - just enough to set off the continuity tester but not enough to power the module properly. Relocated the ground screw and it works perfectly now.

[Beezz]

Thanks for the hint regarding it possibly be a programmable limit (for keeping the power outlets hot), but I am unable to find anything in my owner's manual that even talks about power outlet time limits... much less a way to change them. Has anyone else ever seen this as a programmable feature, on the later-model Edges?

 

 

Saw something about this on a wiring diagram the other day, if I am able to find it again I'll let you know.

 

Also, as far as running a hot lead from the battery all the way back to the rear... I did not run it UNDER the car, but rather through all of the hidden wiring channels that run alongside the inside of the edge of the carpet (where the carpeting meets the doors)... but, once I got it up to the driver's side door area, there is absolutely no way to continue it up and through the firewall safely... so I had to drill a hole through the channel at that point, and then run it down under the car (for about 6 inches), then up between the plastic fender liner and over, then fish it through so that it came out just to the right of the battery!

Now, to be honest, I've probably done over a hundred radio and lighting installs for my volunteer fire dept. support group... and I've NEVER run into a vehicle that has given me virtually NO OPTIONS for safely running power, lighting and radio cables... like this car has! I don't know why it's built like a tank and you cannot find spots to run wires through... but it is (at least, that was my experience).

And wow that still sounds like a ton of work. At least it ended up working for you! Guess they built it to last (hopefully)

Edited August 13, 2016 by Beezz

[Malifestro]

Clearly the hidden hitch / draw-tite is a good option but what if you want it up higher. Has no one here ever even attempted to figure out what it would take? If all that is holding up the install is to cut the black plastic, that isn't a big deal. I'd rather do that then have it 4 inches lower under the bumper.

 

Has anyone done or figured out if installing the factory hitch on the sport is an option?

 

Just snagged my Sport last night, and I'll have a hitch on it at some point.

 

Thanks for some input!