2011 sparkplug coil boot stuck.

[2011edgese]

Anyone have this issue? I tried changing the plugs yesterday, luckily i just tried the easy one forest before i remove the air intake to reach the back. Well... when I pulled it, the coul boot stayed withbthe plug. There was a spring on top of it, i just plugged the coil back on and luckily it fired up fine. Do i stopped there. How would you guys approach this? Wd40? Long fliers? Coat hanger? Im scared i will tear it. Im aware you can buy the boot online but ud like to save them. Also. . What was that spring thing on top of the boot? Is it just a contact of current? Id imagine that's the purpose. Anyone changed the plugs and how long did it take you? I think all of the plug boits will be frozen. I have 91k miles and original plugs.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Haven't had problems with the boots coming off, though did have to twist more on a couple of them to release from the spark plug. A hemostat clamp like one you get from Harbor Freight might work. Got the following info here:

 

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/ignition_coil_boot~pop.html

 

Ignition Coil Boot Products

While most cars today are equipped with a typical distributor type of ignition, there are vehicles that already come with the newer coil-on plug ignition system. This type of ignition assembly eliminates the distributor and the spark plug wires. Instead, it connects the coils directly to the spark plugs in a one is to one ratio-meaning, each spark plug gets an individual coil that directly fires it to trigger the burning of fuel in the engine cylinders. This is an advantageous setup, although it also has a weak link: the ignition coil boot. This boot serves as the connection between the coil and the spark plug. It is composed of an insulating rubber and a contact spring used to connect the two components mentioned. While connecting the coils and spark plugs, the part also offers an insulation to contain the high voltage transmitted by the coil to the plug and insulate the engine and the surrounding parts from the said voltage. It prevents the voltage from escaping and getting discharged, thereby ensuring a smooth and efficient ignition function. Like all other rubber components, however, the ignition coil boot can also get damaged after a while. Years of use and handling of high voltage can cause cracking on the rubber material. And when this happens, you'll experience various driving problems such as misfires. Your car's gas mileage will also drop and you may see your check engine light blinking. The moment you notice these problems, attend to them at once. Inspect the part for any form of damage. If you find any, find a replacement immediately.

 

Date Published : July 30,2014

How to Choose the Perfect Ignition Coil Boot for Your Car's Engine

Are you having problems with starting your car? Does it run sluggish and rough while you're on the road? Does your engine often misfire? If you answered yes to all these questions, then all these point to a faulty ignition coil boot. To prevent these symptoms from getting worse, replace the boot immediately. There are no strict types of ignition coil boots, which makes shopping for one a bit tedious. So how do you know which one is the best for your engine? Here are a couple of dos and don'ts to guide you through your auto part shopping:

Dos

• Physically examine your engine before shopping for a new ignition coil boot. Although most modern engines are already equipped with coil-on-plug technology, some older cars aren't and may not have any use for an ignition coil boot. If your ignition coil is connected to your spark plug by a rubber seal-like part, then you have a coil-on-plug system. On the other hand, if the spark plug is connected directly to the coil through wires, then buying a new boot would be a waste of money and time. So before you go around asking which ignition coil boot is the best in the market, make sure that your car actually needs one first.
• Choose only ignition coil boots that are made of high-grade materials. Since the boot will be exposed to all kinds of harsh elements, such as electrical loads, it should be able to withstand interior and exterior pressure coming from all parts of the engine. It is best to get an ignition coil boot that is made of silicone rubber. This kind of material will provide better protection against thermal overload, and it is less like to develop cracks.
• Make sure that your preferred ignition coil boot is externally insulated. Not only will it protect the ignition coil from the outside, but it will also help you handle the part better, especially during repairs and installation.

Don'ts

• Don't purchase an ignition coil boot that is fitted with plastic parts. Plastic auto parts tend to be more brittle and could break during operation. So to avoid endangering your engine compartment, avoid purchasing ignition coil boots that come with plastic fasteners or clips.
• Don't settle for an ignition coil boot that doesn't come with a warranty. Warrant coverage for this particular auto part ranges from a 90-day warranty to a lifetime warranty. But aside from looking at how long the warranty is going to last, also check for other conditions and limitations. Compare warranties from different dealers to make sure you get the one that you think will give you the best value.

Date Published : July 30,2014

 

How to Replace an Ignition Coil Boot

Is your engine suddenly misfiring? Is your gas mileage dropping at an alarming rate? And finally, is your check engine line blinking wildly? These symptoms all point to a glitch in your ignition system. So if you've checked its coils and plugs and there's still nothing out of place, it's about time you look at the ignition coil boot. This rubber part receives the most abused in your ignition system and must be changed regularly. Follow this step-by-step guide to help you replace this part with ease.

Difficulty level: Easy to moderate Tools you'll need:

• Ignition coil boot
• Wrench
• Silicone dielectric compound

Step 1: Turn off your engine and allow it to cool down for a few seconds before starting on your installation job. Once it's cooled, open the hood and disconnect your car's negative battery cable.

Step 2: To get to your ignition coil boot, there are a few parts that you need to take out. Start with removing the air duct intake and its different connections and engine wiring harness from your vehicle.

Step 3: The ignition coil boot is a small cylinder that connects your spark plug wires from ignition coil. To get access to it, you must first disconnect the ignition coil from the electrical connector. Once the ignition coil has been freed of its connections, grasp your spark plug wires to remove the ignition coil boot.

Step 4: Before installing your new ignition coil boot, make sure that you coat the boot's interior with a silicone dielectric compound. Reconnect the boot the same way it was removed.

Step 5: Refasten your ignition coil to the electrical connector. You can now also reinstall the spark plug wire to the coil.

Step 6: Reassemble all the parts that were removed to gain access to your ignition coil bolt.

Step 7: Now that you've completed the installation, reconnect the negative cable to your battery and start testing your new ignition coil boot.

 

Some fun pics of a Toyota COP boot here.

Edited April 26, 2015 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W

[2011edgese]

Thxs! Im familiar with spark plugs procedures. First time i have a ignition coil boot stick to the plug. I'm going to give it another shot maybe today.

[2011edgese]

I tried again and this time i used a thin metal wire to fish it down and hook it with a loop and pulled it out. It worked! Managed to get the 3 front plugs. Now tomorrow ill try the rear plugs. The air plenum needs to come off. Anyone got a diagram or a idea how hard it is? Im just going to go for it and hope for the best. Also have a K n N filter coming in tomorrow. Hopefuly its worth the money. Btw.... the factory plugs had a big gap. Id say its around .065 to .070, the manual calls for. 050. The plugs i got were factory and pre gapped. Actualy. . You can't gap them. So i think the factory plugs just wore down causing a larger gap. I had a musfire at 60mph at around 4000 rpm. Loss of power ay that spot. And slight pinging. Just changing the 3 plugs ans new battery made a huge difference. Its running real good.

Edited April 27, 2015 by 2011edgese

[macbwt]

You can fish them out by using a hooked end of a coat hanger and then pulling up. worked in the past for me on another vehicle. I would however replace it if it is damaged in anyway. Also make sure you use electrical grease to keep this from happening again. It also sounds like you went more than 90k on the plugs. I am guilty as charged on this also and the gaps were extreme when they were replaced at 150k miles. This in turn caused an O2 sensor to fail so change them at 90K and you will be good. I am currently getting ready to make a video on sparkplug removal and installation on a 2011 Ford Edge Limited. This should help others in the future. I would say also I am going to replace the gasket on the intake as I do not like reusing gaskets. Just my choice. As it will be yours. Oh get a PCV while you are at it as the the little bugger is under the intake and this is the best time to swap it out.

 

I tried again and this time i used a thin metal wire to fish it down and hook it with a loop and pulled out oyt. It worked! Managed to get the 3 front plugs. Now tomorrow ill step the rear plugs. the air plenum needs to cone off. Anyone got a diagram or a idea how hard it is? Im just going to go for it and how for the best. Also have a K n N filter coming in tomorrow. Hopefuly its worthbl the money. Btw.... the factory plugs had a big gap. Id say its around .065 to .070, the manual calls for. 050. The plugs i got were factory and pre gapped. Actualy. . You can't gap them. So i think the factory plugs just wore down causing a larger gap. I had a musfire at 60mph at around 4000 rpm. Loss of power ay that spot. And slight pinging. Just changing the 3 plugs ans new battery made a huge difference. Its running real good.

[2011edgese]

You can fish them out by using a hooked end of a coat hanger and then pulling up. worked in the past for me on another vehicle. I would however replace it if it is damaged in anyway. Also make sure you use electrical grease to keep this from happening again. It also sounds like you went more than 90k on the plugs. I am guilty as charged on this also and the gaps were extreme when they were replaced at 150k miles. This in turn caused an O2 sensor to fail so change them at 90K and you will be good. I am currently getting ready to make a video on sparkplug removal and installation on a 2011 Ford Edge Limited. This should help others in the future. I would say also I am going to replace the gasket on the intake as I do not like reusing gaskets. Just my choice. As it will be yours. Oh get a PCV while you are at it as the the little bugger is under the intake and this is the best time to swap it out.

 

yup.. fishing is the trick. Im doing the 3 hard ones today. Air intake will come off. Im going to reuse everything if i can. Why did you say change the pcv? Does that go bad early? Or just that is easy to change while everything is out?

[macbwt]

Just five bucks for the PCV and since you are already there. Why not. I did it OK without out removing the intake. I like to take care of things while you are in the area if they are simple and cheap. Save time and effort later. If it is OK in your book then don't replace it. I did not change mine until 268,000 miles and it was still good.

yup.. fishing is the trick. Im doing the 3 hard ones today. Air intake will come off. Im going to reuse everything if i can. Why did you say change the pcv? Does that go bad early? Or just that is easy to change while everything is out?

[2011edgese]

Ok. Finished. Took me 1 hour 30 min. Taking the air intake is a bit hard. Nothing crazy. . But medium hard i think. Pulling it out was not fun, all the electrical lines are in the way. You have to unclip a few of them. But once its out, the plugs are easy to get. And i got lucky. . Non of the boots stuck in the rear! Thank god! It fired up well and going on a drive. Also. .. Theres a bolt under the throttle body that holds the whole intake. I had to look carefully to locate it.

Edited April 27, 2015 by 2011edgese

[2011edgese]

Just got the cel light on. Codes p2195 and p2197. Oxygen sensor signal biased/ stuck lean Bank1 sensor 1. And bank2 sensor 1.

 

hopefully it clears itself. They are permanent codes.

[2011edgese]

opps.left the pcv hose unplugged. That's the cel trigger. I imagine its got to be driven for a while for the hard codes to clear. Other than that. .. its smoother. Im still waiting for the k n N filter. Should be here today.

Edited April 27, 2015 by 2011edgese

[2011edgese]

Heres a pic of alll the plugs. Engine is running healthy. Number 4 cylinder has a slight dark carbon on it. When i tried to remove the stuck boot on it and failed, i put it back but the coil spring was not aligned properly, and it didnt fire for s minute or so. So it almost fouled the plug. Removing the coil and setting the sprint straight and plugging it in again solved that issue.

Edited April 27, 2015 by 2011edgese

[2011edgese]

From left to right. 123456

 

also makes total sense. This car had a loss of power at 4000rpm around 55 to 60mph. Uphill mostly. It was brief but you could feel it,but once it left around 4400rpm it would fire all 6 cylinders smooth. I put a new battery and it fixed that issue. I couldn't figure why though. Then llooking at the old plug gap, it makes sense. The gap should be around .050. But these old ones are aroung .065 to .075. Just worn out. Longer gap, weaker spark. Specially with a tired battery.

Edited April 27, 2015 by 2011edgese

[2011edgese]

One more thing. Hardest about doing these plugs was removing the booter hose from the rear and moving all the wires to make room to pull it out without breaking anything. Other than that. . It wasn't that bad. I think i could do it under 40 minutes next time since I'm familiar now.

[macbwt]

How many miles on those plugs? They look like they have well over 100k on them. Mine looked just slightly worse with 150k miles. Great feeling once you finish though!! See that PCV wanted to have some attention and you ignored it. LOL.

[2011edgese]

91,540 miles. Hahaha.. ya, i thought of you when i saw it umplugged. I thought " it will fail soon."

[macbwt]

My wife's 2011 needs plugs now. Seeing yours makes me want to get at it. I will work on it next and make another MG production for your enjoyment.

[2011edgese]

My wife's 2011 needs plugs now. Seeing yours makes me want to get at it. I will work on it next and make another MG production for your enjoyment.

hehe. Its not that bad to do it. Link to the video when you make it.

[2011edgese]

Ok... the hard code just cleared. Took 5 hours of driving here and there.

[macbwt]

I like the 2011 mostly because the 3.5 duratec is a rock solid engine. The main reason I purchased the 2011 for my wife and I have been nothing but happy since. No more breakdown worries like I am still dealing with on her truck that sits and acts like the world largest gravitational force holding the street in place.

[2011edgese]

 

I like the 2011 mostly because the 3.5 duratec is a rock solid engine. The main reason I purchased the 2011 for my wife and I have been nothing but happy since. No more breakdown worries like I am still dealing with on her truck that sits and acts like the world largest gravitational force holding the street in place.[/quote

 

are these known to be reliable motors? This my second American car. First one was a Saturn. Hehe. Got rid of it since it was abandoned. But it was very reliable.

Edited April 28, 2015 by 2011edgese

[2011edgese]

Double post

Edited April 28, 2015 by 2011edgese

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

The core engine and transmission are very reliable. Now, what attaches to them, generally I'd say above average, but a few things are way below average expectations, I think.

[2011edgese]

Hope fully it holds up. Ford dealerships arec the worst from my experience.

 

Also.. just threw in the KnN filter. I feel and hear no difference. Meh.

[macbwt]

I think the engines are great. The suspension especially the front components I believe are the weak point. I have changed more lower control arms than I have changed the transmission fluid.

I like the 2011 mostly because the 3.5 duratec is a rock solid engine. The main reason I purchased the 2011 for my wife and I have been nothing but happy since. No more breakdown worries like I am still dealing with on her truck that sits and acts like the world largest gravitational force holding the street in place.[/quote

are these known to be reliable motors? This my second American car. First one was a Saturn. Hehe. Got rid of it since it was abandoned. But it was very reliable.

[2011edgese]

Or the psu on the 4 wheel drive. Seems like everyone's is leaking.