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Xenon Depot kit troubles


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Hi, I purchased a 2011 SEL last week and pretty much the first thing I did was order some HID's for it. I used Xenon Depot before on my Acura RSX Type-S and had good luck so I thought I'd go ahead and try them again. Install was pretty easy, I grabbed 12V from the battery and grounded each headlight to factory grounding spots (bolts) in the engine bay and the rest was plug and play. I did use the relay harness that came with the headlights because the directions didn't say anything about not using them.

 

So my problem is they don't always turn on, when they do I'm happy with the warm up time and color (5000k) but it's really hit or miss and I can't figure out why. Should I give it a shot without the relays? Anything else I can try?

 

Thanks!

 

Here is what I bought: http://www.xenondepot.com/9006-HID-Kit-Xtreme-HID-p/xt-9006.htm

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If they are 35 watt, I would try them without the harness. If they are 55 watt, ya might want to look into a better harness with thicker gauge wiring. I had the same problem with a cheap ebay harness and rebuilding it to the proper length with 14 gauge wire completely solved the problem.

 

Also keep in mind that some of these kits don't fire consistently when using the auto-on headlight feature.

Edited by fishx65
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If they are 35 watt, I would try them without the harness. If they are 55 watt, ya might want to look into a better harness with thicker gauge wiring. I had the same problem with a cheap ebay harness and rebuilding it to the proper length with 14 gauge wire completely solved the problem.

 

Also keep in mind that some of these kits don't fire consistently when using the auto-on headlight feature.

 

Thanks for the reply. When you say harness, do you mean the part with the relay? The wires look to be 14 gauge to me but I could be mistaken.

 

Thanks,

Justin

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Yes, I'm sure he meant the part with the relay. Many here commonly refer to it as a harness. I'm hoping to install my kit this week using no harness. Definitely worth a shot without the harness but I tried test fitting my set and they did not fire at all so I'm waiting for a set of capacitors to arrive. Very cheap and worth using considering the amount of troubles ppl seem to have with HID's on this vehicle. Capacitors store energy and discharge very fast when needed.

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Thanks Atreies, I tried without the relay harness and they wouldn't fire for me either. Capacitor seems like it might be my best bet, you'd think the relay would provide enough voltage if the factory wires weren't, especially since it's only 35 watts. Oh well, let me know how they work when you get them on.

 

Thanks,

Justin

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Well, let me throw a little light on the subject (pun intended)

 

I ran into similar issues when I bought my 2011 Limited. However, I found that the car had DRLs that were activated (Originally a CA car). I had to go to the dealer to have them disable it in order for my HIDs to work.

 

The next point is that I am currently running a 35w 5000K HID system in mine without a relay harness. What kind of ballasts are the ones you have? Through trial and error, I found that the Canbus ballast worked with no problem. I would test your ballast in a different car to check their behavior. If it fires with no problem in a non-Canbus car, your issue is definitely the ballast is not compatible with the Edge's electrical system.

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I saw on the window sticker that my Edge has the DRL option but I'm not sure which lights that is referring to, my car is originally from Florida.

 

I did discover something interesting today, the HIDs turn on every time the car is park but never in drive or manual. They even turn on in auto, but again only if the car is park. Any ideas?

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Discovered more craziness today. So not only does the car have to be in park for the lights to come on, I metered the connections and the factory harness 12V wire is constantly hot once out of park and goes to 0 volts once in Park. If I put the car in drive, unplug the factory harness and plug it back in then the lights will pop on, so I'm thinking the issue is there just isn't enough voltage to activate the ballast/relay when the car is in drive coming from the factory harness (by factory harness I mean the plug that plugged into the standard headlight), or it takes too long to ramp upto 12 volts so the ballast/relay doesn't pop on. As for solutions, I'm thinking putting a capacitor between the factory harness and the ballast/relay might work. What do you guys think?

 

Thanks,

Justin

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