any work around for door ajar issue

[pilotdog68]

I gather from your response to him that you used the fix I described, but that it works consistently for you? If so, could you tell me what reed switch you used?

My installation is illustrated in post #11 if you wanted to compare, though it sounds like your reed switch is just sticky (or maybe you have some stray magnetism around it?). I harvested my switch from this model security alarm, which I just had sitting around.

 

As I said, I haven't been having any issues with it. Although I'm annoyed my Edge had this problem in the first place, I'm quite happy with the fix.

 

Edit: Looking back at your pictures, I think the magnet in the door speaker may be close enough to your reed switch to cause some issues.

Edited March 30, 2017 by pilotdog68

[dbender]

I'll bet you're right about the speaker magnet. One of these days I'll take the door liner off and move the switch. Thanks for the idea.

[Sandpointspud]

Is this what I need for this fix? And does the ground wire go on the common post?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009SUF08/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1#

[Sandpointspud]

Is this what I need for this fix? And does the ground wire go on the common post?

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009SUF08/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1#

[SpanielChung]

After years of using forums like this to help fix my BWM, decided to go and get "something more reliable". Bought an edge with 60k on the clock and after 2 months the door ajar problem came and stayed. I still can't believe Ford are not recalling their cars for this problem, it's criminal because it is not something that can just be ignored.

 

After some trial and error I ended up with a variation on the reed switch solution and thought I'd share it for all the other Edge owners that will inevitably end up with the problem. It's basically the same, but with a normally open push to make switch mounted just inside the door. You can't see it unless you look for it, and if it fails in the future it should be easy to replace. If I did this again, I would probably use a wire harness to connect the new switch. For this project I just soldered the wires and wrapped with electrical tape.

 

http://www.frys.com/product/2874724?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG

 

Massive thanks to all who shared their solutions and info about which wires to chop!

[lenny44]

Quick question.....I am also having the same issues on both the drivers and passenger doors. I ordered some reed switches from Amazon and I will be attempting the fix this weekend.

As I am looking at the plastic covers that are hiding the wire harness on the floor of the edge (below or next to the driver's seat)....I don't see any screws to remove. So is this just a simple pop or prying off the plastic cover....is it difficult....is there a technique...do I need to worry about breaking it or snapping it when attempting to get it off.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Len

[enigma-2]

Door stills pop off. Pry with body tool slowly. If clips stay on the sill tabs, take off and replace before reinstalling the sill. (Service manual requires replacing clips when sill removed).

 

BTW why are you removing the door sills. Door lock ground wire does not run through there?

[lenny44]

Thank you for the reply....I thought you needed to take that sill off to get to the wire harness to find the smaller 22 gauge wire for the drives side (I am forgetting the color as I write this, but it is in this string of posts)

My plan was to put a magnetic reed switch in line with the wire and ground and then place a magnet on the door pannel....so when the door is open (and the magnet is away) the reed switch will open and not allow the ground inline...when the door closes, the magnet will pull together and allow the ground inline.

SO as I understood it, I needed to get to the wiring bundle under the sill to find the right wire (color combination) and basically splice in the switch to all the ground to present itself.

Do my assumptions sound correct....?

[pilotdog68]

Maybe it varies by model year, but I definitely had to take off the sill trim to even be able to take off the kick panel and access and wire wrap. I just grabbed it by hand and lifted straight up and it pops off. Then when you put it back on take care to line up the clips with their slots.

 

I also just used a t-tap in my fix and then my own wire to ground, because one end of that wire goes to the computer, and the other end goes to the switch in the latch, not directly to ground. You have to bypass the faulty switch by making your own connection to ground. (unless you were planning on using a different wire/solution than I did.)

[Kennyp14]

Lenny, what year is your Edge? Mine is an '11, and I was not able to find the correct wire for the drivers side in the loom of wires under the sill plate. This makes sense to me since the latch is in the door, so why would the wire run from the door and then make a turn and run under the sill plate? I had to track down the correct wire WAY UP under the dash near the fuse panel. It took some serious patience and body contortions to get up there and tap the wire!

 

Ultimately I should have probably just removed the door panel to get to the wire.

Edited June 14, 2018 by Kennyp14

[pilotdog68]

Where is that huge bundle of wires under the door sill going?I just assumed there was an auxiliary computer or something by the rear quarter panel that all the door sensors connect to, and then that computer tells the door alarm to sound, and the dome lights to come on, and the radio to shut off.

 

And again, it may be a difference in model year or we may be talking about two different wires altogether. All I know for certain (and illustrated in my video) was that I found a green wire with purple stripe in that bundle, and grounding it fixed my problem.

Edited June 14, 2018 by pilotdog68

[lenny44]

Wow...Thaks for all the help. The edge is a 2012 and not knowing all the names of the panels is probably confusing me. I think the sill needs to come up to get to the kickplate.....it sounds like (hopefully) the wire bundle will be found and accessible behind the kickplate and not the sill.

I actually just found the "T taps" this morning and ordered them. I think this will make the project way easier as I will not have to cut the actual (suspected) wire. I'll just place the T tap over the wire and clamp it and then on the longer side of the T-tap put a wire to the new reed switch and the other side of the reed switch to the ground screw.

I guess the success or failure of Saturday's project will be decided on how easy or difficult it will be to find the identified wire....and just to add fun to the day, I need to do both the drivers and passenger door.

[pilotdog68]

I actually just found the "T taps" this morning and ordered them.

 

I'll just place the T tap over the wire and clamp it and then on the longer side of the T-tap put a wire to the new reed switch and the other side of the reed switch to the ground screw.

 

Just FYI you should be able to find them at any hardware store or auto parts store. They're very common.

 

Yes the t-taps are great because they should not damage the conductor itself, so if you accidentally tap the wrong wire just remove the tap and wrap it with electrical tape to seal it back up and you're fine.

Edited June 14, 2018 by pilotdog68

[lenny44]

You guys are AMAZING.....everything went perfectly...a solid fix for sure. Start to finish.....2 hours to do 2 doors and prob $15 in materials. Been listening to those stupid door ajar warnings for 4 years.....ahh.

 

THANKS for all your help!!!!!!!

Len