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2013 FWD 2.0L and removing front rotors


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As the others stated, it should just come off with a little help.

 

  1. Remove the wheel and tire. For additional information.
  1. NOTICE: Do not allow the brake caliper and anchor plate assembly to hang from the brake hose or damage to the hose can occur.

    Remove the brake caliper anchor plate bolts and position the brake caliper and anchor plate assembly aside.
    • Support the caliper and anchor plate assembly using mechanic's wire.
  1. Remove the brake disc.
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  • 1 month later...

I did my rear brakes and rotors on the weekend and took a quick look at the fronts. It looks like I need to remove the spindle nut to remove the brake rotor.

 

Can anyone confirm this?

 

TIA

 

Im doing my rear rotors on a 2013 now. They're not coming off easily... Was there a trick to this? I've removed the whole calliper assembly and the small screw on the rotor itself. I've sprayed PB Blaster into every opening. I've been smacking it with a mallet but wanted to check if I'm skipping a step or something...

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You need a large hammer not a mallet. Brute force will work. You may wish to get new rotors. Also wire brush the spindle and coat with anti seize before installing new rotors. If all else fails apply heat to the cap and then resort to the Hammer. Liberal private use of colorful language sometimes helps you exhale while pounding.

 

Im doing my rear rotors on a 2013 now. They're not coming off easily... Was there a trick to this? I've removed the whole calliper assembly and the small screw on the rotor itself. I've sprayed PB Blaster into every opening. I've been smacking it with a mallet but wanted to check if I'm skipping a step or something...

Edited by macbwt
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You need a large hammer not a mallet. Brute force will work. You may wish to get new rotors. Also wire brush the spindle and coat with anti seize before installing new rotors. If all else fails apply heat to the cap and then resort to the Hammer. Liberal private use of colorful language sometimes helps you exhale while pounding.

 

Thanks a lot for the reply, macbwt. You were exactly correct - brute force and colorful language did it for me.

 

The tightest bonds were on a couple of the four bolts attaching the calliper assembly (broke a socket wrench) and for both rotors . They both required a lot of smacking with a short sledge hammer. The best move was the pulling strike where the bottom of the head of the hammer hits the back of the rotor - two hits and rotate 30 degrees, repeat for a couple minutes then smack the front a bit to counter. I had to do this for 10 minutes at least on both rotors.

 

It wasnt all perfect - theres a 40 torx screw that holds on the rotor (aside from the lug nuts). I stripped the head out of the screw on the divers sids and had to drill it out. So there is now no screw on that side... But on other vehicles I've seen, it's the lug nuts that hold the rotor on and I dont thik the Edge is any different... Its all back together and the test drive went great.

 

Last thing - My pads were worn to the steel on both sides - 100% bare!! This vehicle is just past 25K Miles. What in the hell is that about?? Ruined rotors and bare pads... I see others mentioning the possiblility that the parking break is not disengaging completely, even though the pedals out and theres no warning signals. That's the only thing I can think that would cause that much wear that fast. It's my wife's car and she is one of the safest, quietest drivers I know... anyway, a bit frustrating

 

But overall, glad I was able to get the job done and save a bunch of money. Also gave me an excuse to get a nicer socket wrench...

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If you listen to my repair videos you will hear others doing the same thing you did. Not uncommon. I see people struggling all the time with frozen rotors to the point blow torches have to be employed.

Brakes are a funny thing you get 25k miles on them and I get 175K miles on them. The traffic you drive is the single most important wear factor in your brakes. If she is constantly gas/brake her whole drive then your brakes will be ate up quickly. My miles are all interstate and rarely used. Check out some of my videos where I inspect my brakes and you will see how much pad is left after 100k miles. I do recommend Ceramic pads with high carbon steel rotors (check the weight of the rotors and compare them also) I say check the weight as not all rotor are made equally and I go with the heavier high carbon steel rotors. A marriage of these two together should provide you with the longer service life you are looking for and provide a much quieter dust free result. I did this with my trailblazer and let it set due to engine issues for three months and when I did drive it after sitting that long I heard nothing from the brakes as I drove it.

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