shumax Posted March 16, 2015 Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 2007 Ford Edge SEL AWD with 104k. Driven by my wife, always=gentle driving. Noticed tonight that there is a light knocking noise when slowing and turning left. I climbed under the car and grabbed the stab links and noticed no movement. I replaced the tie rods about 20k ago and they appeared solid - no movement. I took a rubber mallet and tapped on the same parts and noticed no movement/play. I poked around on the forum here and suspect someone will tell me it's the strut and strut bearing. If so, is there a video around that shows how to replace these parts? I may attempt the repair myself. Thanks, Shumax Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 (edited) There is actually a TSB 11-5-6 for a similar condition, you may want to peruse it to see if it matches the description: 6F50/6F55 TRANSMISSION - SLUGGISH ACCELERATION FROM 0-8 KM\H (0-5 MPH) FOLLOWED BY A HARSH BUMP OR A SLIP ON TAKE-OFF FOLLOWED BY A BUMP - BUILT ON OR BEFORE 4/15/2011 TSBID: 176597 Mfg Num: 11-12-10 Issue Date: 2011-12-19 There is also a TSB for a cracking/snapping sound on turns caused by the chrome clad wheels. tsb11-05-06 Sluggish acceleration from stop or low speed followed by bump.pdf Edited March 17, 2015 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 (edited) If the previous suggestion is not it then take the weight off and test the wheel for movement. If it moves and the tie rods are not loose then you may have a ball joint going. My FWD edge made a knocking sound also down lower.Try to move the wheel by pushing on the front of the tire if you have movement then the ball joint is your most likely culprit. The strut can also make a knocking noise light at first then progressively louder but this noise is up higher. You can usually tell the difference of the sound if it is higher or lower. The strut bearing mount is hard to tell if it is bad just due to position and with or without weight it may still seem stable. You could jack it up then put another jack under the LCA and bring it up and see if there is any movement where the ball joint is connected to the LCA. If so that may be it. I originally thought my bumping was another strut until I tested the ball joint. Changing the struts can be done in the garage or driveway just need the tools. I will say nothing makes the job go faster than a good impact wrench. Torque wrench and sockets. I do recommend removing the cowling above the struts to give yourself more room or have the hands of a five year old with the strength of an adult. I have changed mine, but was not making videos at the time. I am sure I will in the future. Check out my video on the LCA removal and it might help you decide what to do. Edited March 17, 2015 by macbwt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shumax Posted March 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 All: Thanks for the suggestions. I can tell you what is outlined above in the TSB is not what I am experiencing. It sounds like a metal on metal knocking inside a wooden box. I can just barely "feel" it, too. I sware that I can also feel some "grinding" when I turn the wheel to the left. That makes my brain think it's the strut bearing for that symptom alone. I did check everything and it seemed tight, but we just moved and all of my tools are still packed. I may just take it to the dealer I have used on my Company vehicle and have them look at it. From there, if it's something like the struts, I may try and replace them myself. If anyone else has another suggestion, I am all ears - thanks! Shumax Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted March 18, 2015 Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 Just a note, you can change the struts in your driveway without a lift. I did it. Also at 104K you are due new struts and rear shocks anyway. All: Thanks for the suggestions. I can tell you what is outlined above in the TSB is not what I am experiencing. It sounds like a metal on metal knocking inside a wooden box. I can just barely "feel" it, too. I sware that I can also feel some "grinding" when I turn the wheel to the left. That makes my brain think it's the strut bearing for that symptom alone. I did check everything and it seemed tight, but we just moved and all of my tools are still packed. I may just take it to the dealer I have used on my Company vehicle and have them look at it. From there, if it's something like the struts, I may try and replace them myself. If anyone else has another suggestion, I am all ears - thanks! Shumax Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shumax Posted March 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 I have done struts before but not on this vehicle. Have any pages from an FSM you can share? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted March 18, 2015 Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 Sorry just my old memory. WWW most likely has the FSM he has everything!!! I have done struts before but not on this vehicle. Have any pages from an FSM you can share? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted March 18, 2015 Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 (edited) Well, they make it sound simple: Item Part Number Description 1 — Shock absorber and spring assembly 2 W520212 Shock absorber upper mount nuts (4 required) 3 W712555 Shock absorber lower flag bolts (2 required) 4 W520216 Shock absorber lower nuts (2 required) 5 — Wheel speed sensor harness clip Removal and Installation Remove and discard the 4 shock absorber upper mount nuts. To install, tighten to 30 Nm (22 lb-ft). Remove the wheel and tire assembly.Remove the shock absorber lower nuts, flag bolts and the shock absorber and spring assembly. Discard the nuts and flag bolts. To install, tighten to 225 Nm (166 lb-ft). To install, reverse the removal procedure.Check and if necessary, adjust the alignment. Edited March 18, 2015 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted March 18, 2015 Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 The hard part is getting to the top nuts of the strut. Imagine doing this and replacing the LCA at the same time. Well, they make it sound simple: 2007 Edge_Front Shock & Spring Assembly.gif Item Part Number Description 1 — Shock absorber and spring assembly 2 W520212 Shock absorber upper mount nuts (4 required) 3 W712555 Shock absorber lower flag bolts (2 required) 4 W520216 Shock absorber lower nuts (2 required) 5 — Wheel speed sensor harness clip Removal and Installation Remove and discard the 4 shock absorber upper mount nuts. To install, tighten to 30 Nm (22 lb-ft). Remove the wheel and tire assembly.Remove the shock absorber lower nuts, flag bolts and the shock absorber and spring assembly. Discard the nuts and flag bolts. To install, tighten to 225 Nm (166 lb-ft). To install, reverse the removal procedure.Check and if necessary, adjust the alignment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted March 19, 2015 Report Share Posted March 19, 2015 The hard part is getting to the top nuts of the strut. Imagine doing this and replacing the LCA at the same time. Yeah, it is a bit tight in that space, but at least they are visible 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ2008edge Posted March 19, 2015 Report Share Posted March 19, 2015 (edited) For the past year I had clicking noise in front end, few times went under there couldn't find anything until few days ago I looked at control arms and my right control arms ball joint was half way out and causing the clicking noise. Went to dealer got a new control arm, replaced it and no more clicking noise. To be on a safer side ordered the left side control arm as well and new power transfer unit due to it been leaking oil for the past year. Will add few pictures of the control arm soon. Edited March 19, 2015 by Russ2008edge 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted March 19, 2015 Report Share Posted March 19, 2015 You mean like this one. For the past year I had clicking noise in front end, few times went under there couldn't find anything until few days ago I looked at control arms and my right control arms ball joint was half way out and causing the clicking noise. Went to dealer got a new control arm, replaced it and no more clicking noise. To be on a safer side ordered the left side control arm as well and new power transfer unit due to it been leaking oil for the past year. Will add few pictures of the control arm soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted March 16, 2017 Report Share Posted March 16, 2017 X-Linking known issue http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22237-front-lower-ball-joint-separation-in-model-year-my-2007-2008-ford-edge-and-lincoln-mkx-vehicles/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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