allport Posted February 22, 2015 Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 So i just had the driver side rear wheel bearing go out on me before a 6000km trip and im in a pinch for tools... Can anyone confirm the size of the axle nut and the torque bolts that hot the hub in? Can you squeeze by the ABS ring or do i have to drop the whole rear suspension arm to do this jesus job.... Any tips would be appreciated. Im sure i could do this blind but cant afford any hangups on this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted February 22, 2015 Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 Very useful: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/8329-07-sel-plus-awd-rear-bearinghub-replacement/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allport Posted February 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 Thanks found exactly what i was looking for Quoted... I replaced my using a Torx 60 bit 3" long ground round from 1/2 back from tip about an inch and a half in order to miss hitting the ABS ring on the AWD CV Joint. 1 1/4 Socket to remove Hub nut (2) Retourque to 213 and 132 respectively (something like that....the hub should come with instructions). Leave the disc brakes on the vehicle and have someone apply the brakes while breaking the nut loose. A 3 jaw puller works just fine to detach hub from splined CV shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted February 22, 2015 Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 Install the wheel bearing and new wheel hub bolts. - Tighten to 133 Nm (98 lb-ft). Position the brake caliper and anchor plate assembly and install the 2 bolts. To install, tighten to 55 Nm (41 lb-ft). Install the brake disc. AWD vehicles Using a suitable installation tool, install the halfshaft into the wheel bearing and wheel hub. Install the halfshaft hub nut. Tighten to 275 Nm (203 lb-ft). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allport Posted February 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 Install the wheel bearing and new wheel hub bolts. - Tighten to 133 Nm (98 lb-ft). Position the brake caliper and anchor plate assembly and install the 2 bolts. To install, tighten to 55 Nm (41 lb-ft). Install the brake disc. AWD vehicles Using a suitable installation tool, install the halfshaft into the wheel bearing and wheel hub. Install the halfshaft hub nut. Tighten to 275 Nm (203 lb-ft). Bang on, between that post and the link to the other one ill have it sorted out in no time. Too bad the cheapest bearing i can get in a pinch is $169 but when i get home i can get one for $69.99.... Oh well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted February 22, 2015 Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 When you get pinched, you get pinched. Parts ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 price sounds like you had to buy the whole hub and not just the bearing. Trying to remember I think the fronts are hub assembly's with bearings and the rears can be whole hub or just a bearing. If just the bearing you will need a press if whole hub you will not thus the price difference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RFeirstein Posted March 1, 2015 Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 Ford released this vehicle with a design defect. The rear bearing has been reengineered several times. Make sure you use a replacement bearing with the latest fix or you may do this expensive repair again. Your Dealer may offer assistance although there is not formal recall that I know of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allport Posted March 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 Well the bearing exploded stranding me 2000km from home...not impressed since ptu seal and rear axle seal went too...only 120k on the car at that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allport Posted March 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 Well after i told the dealer that fixed my bearing about the $604 i paid to fix the ptu seal he must have felt bad cause he only charged me 1hr to fix the bearing...Guess that kind of makes up for it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boiler662 Posted September 13, 2015 Report Share Posted September 13, 2015 Ford released this vehicle with a design defect. The rear bearing has been reengineered several times. Make sure you use a replacement bearing with the latest fix or you may do this expensive repair again. Your Dealer may offer assistance although there is not formal recall that I know of. Bump Do you have some part numbers? Looks like Timken, Moog and SKF are all made over seas now so that plays no part in which one to buy. I will be replacing at least one maybe both rear bearings that have 3500 miles on them one is an SKF the other is a Raybestos if there are newer parts numbers compared to what is on the vehicle that would be extremely helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted September 14, 2015 Report Share Posted September 14, 2015 When it comes to bearings, Timken is usually a solid choice for any application. My experience with them is in the Taurus line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boiler662 Posted September 14, 2015 Report Share Posted September 14, 2015 When it comes to bearings, Timken is usually a solid choice for any application. My experience with them is in the Taurus line. That is who I am leaning towards I just want to make sure before I put a fourth bearing on in five months. Hopefully the timken bearing can last longer than 3500 miles. Another thing I was wondering about how much torque would it take to make the bearing fail, if the factory says 203 ft-lbs what would it take to put uneven loading on the bearing and cause a premature failure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 You sure there is not another issue in that assembly causing the bearing to fail? I went through three on one wheel only because the replacement failed, but the new replacement was good. I did have the left front make a pinging sound and they torqued it an additional 15lbs and the noise stopped. The bearing never failed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boiler662 Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 You sure there is not another issue in that assembly causing the bearing to fail? I went through three on one wheel only because the replacement failed, but the new replacement was good. I did have the left front make a pinging sound and they torqued it an additional 15lbs and the noise stopped. The bearing never failed. I am not sure what else it would be the stock bearings were fine until 80k miles. The first time the left rear failed I had a raybestos put on and it failed 3000 miles later at the time I thought it was the right rear because there was no way the new bearing would have failed in 3000 miles once we found out it was the left rear the raybestos was then replaced with an SKF. When I thought the right rear had failed I had a raybestos put on and it started failing last week with 3500 miles on it. Long story short I had two raybestos hubs fail in 3500 miles. Yesterday I took off both rear tires, calipers and dicsc and spun the hubs, the right rear was definitely grinding and was harder to spin than the left rear. I guess what I could do is take the right rear hub off and check it, when the first raybestos failed it was slinging grease after 3000 miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 I have always tried to use Moog replacement parts. A parts salesman I know and see often in my travels related that raybestos bearings are used car dealer bearings.(stop the noise and out the door) SKF are his choice for bearings. He bases this on the least number of returns. Moog he said is right up there with SKF. The rears for some reason were my first bearing to go also, but I ended up replacing more on the right front than any other wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boiler662 Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 Just ordered the Moog hub we will see how this one turns out Thanks for your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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