Alignment needed at 17K miles...

[Mirage52]

My car is 14 months old, 17K miles...and the steering wheel is slightly crooked to keep the vehicle straight.

 

This seems pretty early for an alignment...haven't driven on bumpy roads, or hit bad potholes...kind of disappointed that I already have to shell out $90 to get it taken care of, but whatever.

 

Anyone else had issues with this?

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

May need subframe alignment to fix, a la:

http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/alignment-suspension-specs-ford-focus/

 

Front Subframe: All Technical Service Bulletins
Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Drifts/Pulls To The Right

TSB 10-24-8

12/16/10

DRIFT/PULL TO THE RIGHT

FORD:
2011 Edge

LINCOLN:
2011 MKX

ISSUE
Some 2011 Edge and MKX vehicles may exhibit a drift/pull right concern even though the tire pressures and wheel alignment settings are within
specifications.

ACTION
Follow the Service Procedure.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

1. Partially raise vehicle.

2. Spin all wheels and inspect for brake drag.

a. If brake drag is present, do not continue with this article. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 206-05, for normal diagnostics.

b. If no brake drag is present, proceed to Step 3.

3. Swap front tires and wheels from side to side (LF to RF) and retest for a drift/pull to the right.

a. If the concern is resolved, return vehicle to customer.

b. If the concern is still present, proceed to Step 4.

4. Record wheel alignment settings to establish a baseline.

5. Remove the RH splash shield. Refer to WSM, Section 501-02.

6. Remove three (3) pushpin fasteners, seven (7) screws and the front splash shield.

7. Using a wax pencil, mark the position of the front subframe to the underbody at each of the mounting nut locations.

8. Remove the subframe mounting nuts, one at a time, and replace with new nuts leaving 2 threads exposed to allow for subframe movement.

a. Negative cross caster and positive cross camber will reduce vehicle drift right. Increasing negative cross caster is preferred over positive cross

camber.

9. Increase negative cross caster to achieve a minimum of -0.5 degrees, not to exceed -1.2 degrees cross caster. Increase positive cross camber to

achieve a minimum of +0.6 degrees, not to exceed +1.2 degrees cross camber. Right hand camber not to exceed -1.2 degrees.

a. To increase negative cross caster, rotate the subframe clockwise, as viewed from the bottom of the car, taking note of the left front subframe

bushing and the right rear subframe bushing. For every 1 mm (1/32") of lateral movement outboard of both the left front and right rear subframe
bushings, cross caster will increase by approximately 0.25 degrees.

b. To increase positive cross camber, slide the subframe to the right (passenger side). For every 1 mm (1/32") of lateral movement, cross camber

will increase approximately 0.15 degrees.

10. Torque subframe mounting nuts to 133 N.m (98 lb-ft).

11. Reset front toe to specifications. Refer to WSM, Section 204-00.

WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage

[Mirage52]

Interesting. Mine pulls to the left.

 

I'll check tire pressure though to see if that could be causing it....and it's been historically cold the last few weeks.

[FordService]

My car is 14 months old, 17K miles...and the steering wheel is slightly crooked to keep the vehicle straight.

 

This seems pretty early for an alignment...haven't driven on bumpy roads, or hit bad potholes...kind of disappointed that I already have to shell out $90 to get it taken care of, but whatever.

 

Anyone else had issues with this?

Have you already been to the dealer to have this taken care of? I want to see how I can best assist.

 

Meagan

[Mirage52]

Taking it in today...Century Ford in Mt. Airy, MD.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Been there before? Let us know how it goes!

[Mirage52]

I bought it there and so far I have no complaints as far as service but that may change...

 

They said the alignment was good as is but did one and still charged for it anyway, I am curious if the steering wheel will be straight now because it was crooked and that was making me think an alignment was needed. If it's still crooked I will ask them to straighten it at no cost since they basically charged for an alignment when it wasn't necessary but he said "once you have it hooked into the computer you might as well do it". It was $80 so hopefully I get something out of it.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

I would say they should check all the steering & suspension components for wear/damage while the shop has it. Here's an excerpt from another site:

 

• 1. drive the car down a flat, smooth road and get it going straight. If the steering wheel is off center, but the car goes perfectly straight you will need a toe adjustment. this could be caused by any suspension work or hitting a pot hole or any other thing.
• Don't force the wheel straight. some people do this and claim they have a pull, because the are not letting the Toe equalize (car moves and tires try to go straight and steering wheel turns as a result). I get the car going straight and let go of the wheel. if it still goes straight, and doesn't veer in another direction, but the wheel is off then it's just a toe adjustment.
• Try to find a road with not much road crown, so it doesn't make you think you have a rightward pull.
• 2. if you let go of the steering wheel and the car veers, or if you have to hold the steering wheel in a certain spot at all times to keep it going straight you have a pull.
• This is caused by a difference in camber/caster settings. basic rule is car pulls to the most positive camber, and the least amount of caster.
• solution for both is alignment. if you take it somewhere tell them what the problem is in you best words, this makes it easier for the tech.
• I forgot to add, you could also have out of spec suspension components such as ball joints, tie rods, or even a wheel bearing if it's really bad.